Getting fed up of noisy ISO settings and manual focus.

stu_the_flat

stu_the_flat

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Stuart
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I've bought a D60

I'm really enjoying it and I am loving learning about photography. however the ISO settings can produce some very grainy images. which is the next best Nikon camera that would have a significantly better CCD? or at least a button that makes the ISO easier to change?

Cheers Stuart
 
Sorry Stu, but you need to lower the ISO (it should be ok around 400) and sort out your picture taking technique. Does your lens have VR? That will help at reasonable cost.

Otherwise, you need to think about a Nikon D700 or D3, and some massively expensive wide aperture lenses. This is not an option for the faint hearted, nor, frankly, those that have not learned some basic camera craft ;)

What's the focusing problem?
 
What this thread needs is sample photos
 
You can assign your Func button to control ISO.

Keep it at ISO100 base, but enable AutoISO so it'll increase automatically is also a nice trick. Shutter speed of 1/60 with a ceiling of ISO800 won't cause any problems with that sensor.

The D60 is fine at ISO800 though, and certainly decent enough at ISO1600 unless you are under flourescent or incandescent light.
 
stu_the_flat said:
I've bought a D60

I'm really enjoying it and I am loving learning about photography. however the ISO settings can produce some very grainy images. which is the next best Nikon camera that would have a significantly better CCD? or at least a button that makes the ISO easier to change?

Cheers Stuart
Click to expand...

Can you give examples?

I have a D40X and whilst it gets noisy at ISO800 most times the results are useable - it's poo at 1600 unless you actually want visible grain though (and sometimes I do).

As said, you can assign the function button to change the ISO.
 
I'll try and get some pictures.

This post was set off yesterday because I was taking photos of a Chinese wedding show on the street. I got talking to one of the girls and they invited me into the tent with the models. so there are to diffrent lightings out in the sunlight of the catwalk and in the shade of the tent. I was really wanting candid shots of the models in the tent but I had to look interested in the cat walk as not to creep them out.

I was shooting on apature priority with the apature wide open and the ISO set to Auto for the to diffrent lights. I didn't know there was a ceiling function And that is probably my problem. I will have a dig for this. Many thanks.

One thing is I wanted to shoot on a tripod in a secluded corner. I thought I would look like a prat setting up a tripod in there tent. So I shot hend held. I used the 70-300 sigma APO AF-D . Now heres the other part, I want the 70-300 nikon VR, I can afford yet. so When I saw the Sigma AF-D APO for £79 in jessops I thought "prefect" as its not going to be to much money waisted when I replace it.

thats why I'm manualy foucing on the D60. I've taken to slowly turning the ring and taking three shots rapidly. yesterday one of the models on the catwalk as she turned gave me a little wink and yes I have a really fuzzy photo of this!

I've also bought the 50mm f1.8 and I'm rubbish with it. I really have not been able to get a good picture with it!

Here are some photos of the day. Sorry I've just let photobucket compress them.

Buy far my favorate shot of the day.
DSC_0487.jpg


DSC_0447.jpg


DSC_0103.jpg


DSC_0190.jpg


DSC_0229.jpg


DSC_0184.jpg


The ladscape photos....

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp189/stu_the_flat/DSC_0197.jpg

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp189/stu_the_flat/DSC_0470.jpg

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp189/stu_the_flat/DSC_0203.jpg

Cirtisim on the photos quite welcome. I relise I'm a complete novice. (I'm enjoying it though!)

I would love advice of getting better hand held photos. One problem I have is when there is a really good oppertunaty I get nervous forget everything and take 650 photos!

Cheers Stuart
 
stu, not sure if you know this but in the bottom left hand corner of your viewfinder display, when you have your shutter pressed halfway down and turn your focusing ring with your other hand you will see a red circle light up, this means the subject thats in your focus point is focused.

Thats what i go by when using my nikkor f1.8D lens manual focus.

Not sure if you know that?
 
Just guessing, but from the posted pics there is definitely a focus problem, perhaps some camera shake, and big enlargements.

In most situations, it is hard to focus manually as well as most AF systems. Is there a problem with your AF?

Camera shake - if you don't have VR/OS or whatever, then use the 1/focal length x crop factor rule as a minimum for fuzz-free shots. That is, 300mm lens needs to 1/300 x 1.5 crop factor = 1/450sec. That is minimum. If you make big enlargements from a small part of the image, camera shake is magnified still further.

You should aim not to crop the image at all. Even slight cropping in post processing throws away masses of image quality. Try to fill the frame by moving closer.

In fact, if you can get closer and fill the frame and reduce focal length, many imaging problems are greatly reduced. Just doing that will show you what your camera is capable of.
 
Those photos are straight from the camera there was no cropping. I'll watch the shutter speed and try and get closer to the models! (there scary the one with the flowery head and red bead veil looked like she would bite (If Im lucky))

But as the above post I didn't know there was a siganl to tell me I was in focus, Today I might just find a rock or something get the tripod out and see just how sharp I can get things.

Thank you for the feed back.
 
For manual focus, enable the "'Electronic Rangefinder" which will give you arrows that point like this --> and <-- and it'll tell you what direction to turn the focus ring when manually focusing.

The D60 does come with a manual - don't be afraid to read it ;)
 
CHeers For the information sadly I am 5000 miles away from my manual at the percise moment! but I must give it a read so I am aware of all the functions.

Just as an excrise in sharpness how dose this photo score? following the advice It was taken at 100 ISO on shutter priority set to 1/500 and f7.1, the camera was monunted on a tripod. This image is "straight from the camera"

The foucs light was very sensative and flickered on and off. It assume this was caused by camera shake?

Stuart

DSC_0033.jpg
 
For the different lighting conditions, another thing you may want to think about is the WB (White Balance) setting being used for the shot.

If you really aren't comfortable with the 50mm f/1.8 but like the focal length you could consider the Nikon 50mm f/1.4 AF-S or better still for a cropped-sensor camera (IMO) is the Nikon 35mm f/1.8 AF-S. Both would allow AF on your D60. Sigma do excellent lenses for those focal lengths too in their 30mm f/1.4 and 50mm f/1.4 offerings (both have Sigma's HSM system to allow AF on the D60 too).
 
stu_the_flat said:
CHeers For the information sadly I am 5000 miles away from my manual at the percise moment! but I must give it a read so I am aware of all the functions.

Just as an excrise in sharpness how dose this photo score? following the advice It was taken at 100 ISO on shutter priority set to 1/500 and f7.1, the camera was monunted on a tripod. This image is "straight from the camera"

The foucs light was very sensative and flickered on and off. It assume this was caused by camera shake?

Stuart

DSC_0033.jpg
Click to expand...

TBH, that pic doesn't look too bad, but then almost anything looks okay on a PC monitor. And I think it would look a heck of a lot better with a bit of work in post processing. Edit: correct the over-exposure, add sharpening, contrast, saturation - a bit of everything really ;)

I would give that a try, and then try to replicate those settings with the camera pre-sets so you get the same treatment with JPEGs straight out of the camera.

The AF light should not be flickering. You need a solid green. It's hard to tell exactly where the focus is, but it's not far off.

But I also have a strong suspicion that maybe you are expecting too much from a cheap zoom used at the long end. Have a go with your other lenses, and try a side by side shot with better zoom. Go to a camera shop and shoot a couple of snaps out of the door for comparison.
 
Cheers guys.

I think my 100th post will be a for sale with the 50mm f1.8. I wanted it for indoor work and with the corp factor its to "zoomed". so the 35mm AFS would be perfect and quite afordable!

As for a telephoto similar to another thread on here... if I wanted an atuofoucing telephoto would I be better buying the Nikon 70-300 VR or Viperbikers Tamron 70-200?
 
Tamron 70-200 2.8? That will be a big step up from where you are, but I don't think it has VR/VC. Since you are already pushing things in less than perfect light, I would consider this a priority.

And it doesn't go to 300mm, so if you start cropping the image you will be pretty much back to square one. If you want reach, then buy a good quality long lens. Cropping and telecons are both compromise solutions.

Having said all that, if you can get close enough for 200mm, and get the shutter speed up with the help of f/2.8, then from the images you've posted I think you will be well sorted.
 
If you really feel the need for 300mm reach then you'd probably be best getting a prime such as the AF-S 300mm f/4, not the cheapest lens but you'll really see the difference in quality. Rather than buying that, however, I'd suggest that you settle for a shorter focal length and walk forwards or back to get the correct composition. It shouldn't be too hard to do in the types of shots you've shared here.
 
mm I see your points when I went throurgh Amsterdam airport I saw the 70-200 Nikon VR for sale for ~£900 I was doing my best to forget about it and pray that the price goes up in may as I have to spent 7 hours there!

I'm just here to play so I don't really want to spend silly money on lenes (I already do that with my Alfa) but please sugest sutble lenes for me that I could be happy with.

Cheers Stuart
 
Nikon 70-300 is a very good lens, has VR, and a very versatile range of focal lengths. I find it hard to believe that you would not be very happy with it. It's the obvious choice, but if you stumble across some other used bargain, then of course consider it.

If you regularly find yourself at the long end of the zoom, or needing apertures lower than f/4-5.6, then consider an f/2.8 zoom, or a prime, but both have their drawbacks, not least cost. I think you can do much better with what you have, with careful picture taking technique, and a bit of optimisation with the camera's imaging pre-sets, and/or in post processing.
 
I think you are right HoppyUK. the equiment I have is of a higher standard than the man at the end of the camera! I will stick with what I have got and continue to post photos on the forum so I can get advice.

I can always hope that I find a 70-300 VR in my frosties packet one morning!

Cheers Stuart
 
puddleduck said:
You can assign your Func button to control ISO.

Keep it at ISO100 base, but enable AutoISO so it'll increase automatically is also a nice trick. Shutter speed of 1/60 with a ceiling of ISO800 won't cause any problems with that sensor.

The D60 is fine at ISO800 though, and certainly decent enough at ISO1600 unless you are under flourescent or incandescent light.
Click to expand...

You can have quick access to ISO adjustment by sacrificing the self timer on the function button

Make sure the full menus are displayed-
Press the menu button
Select the setup menu
Select CSM/setup menu
Select 'full' then OK

Select the Custon settings menu
Scroll down to 11. Fn button ( default is for timer release)
Select 'ISO' ok

Now pressing the Fn button and scrolling left/right with the thumb wheel will adjust the ISO without menu steps (y)
 
Interesting one this.
My mate has a D60 and I felt that his high ISO performance was (or is) much better than my D80.
But if it does really bug you then it's an FX body you need (not cheap).
I think we're being spoiled a lot by modern ISO performance though, take a look at high speed 35mm film shots!
 
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