Hodders' white BG summary

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Ben
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OK, I have spent the last 6 months faffing about with various stuff and people have asked all sorts of questions via PM and in threads.

I have just finished processing a set of print orders for a client and I have 30 minutes before I bunk off for the weekend. So I thought I would take a few snaps of my setup and attempt to summarise it all here in the hope that someone might find it useful.

None of the following images have had any exposure tweaking only a resize/sharpen.

So here goes - pic 1 - general setup:

General description. There is a big hilite lit by two Lencarta 300 strobes each fitted with a standard reflector and aimed slightly backwards.

The floor is two 2.4m x 1.2m sheets of white multipanel sheeting joined with the hydralock tongue and grove.

The main light is a lencarta 600 strobe in a 1.2m softbox.

None of the strobes were fired in the image below.

The walls and ceiling are just black cotton curtains to control spill in what is a smaller space than I would ideally like.

wbg1.jpg


Right, how do I get rid of the join between the floor and the hilite. Well I use a couple of sheets of perspex painted gloss white on the back tucked under the floor like this:

wbg2.jpg


Once the strobes start firing it becomes all but invisible as you'll see later.

So what happens when I start firing the hilite strobes:

There are a sequence of shots at different F stops showing what happens:

F22
wbg3.jpg


F16
wbg4.jpg


F11
wbg5.jpg


F8
wbg6.jpg


As you can see by F11 the hilite is a 'white out' and by F8 most of the floor is as well. Out of interest my light meter reads F16 +/- about 0.5stops over the whole area of the hilite (measured about 3" away from the surface of the hilite).
 
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Right lets introduce a subject. A meter reading taken under the sibjects "chin" and pointed at the main light is F8 plus a little bit.

wbg7.jpg


This is shot at F8 and looks pretty good. The white feathers are aimed at showing how much edge destruction I am getting and the close up below shows that in more detail.

wbg8.jpg


Finally a shot taken at F11 (one stop more than the hilite) showing a close up of the feathers again.

wbg9.jpg


The F11 close up has got less edge detail loss but a white shirt or even blond hair shows up pretty nicely at F8 and as always this strikes a happy medium between what comes out of the camera and the amount of PP involved.

Hope this is helpful for someone.
 
Very interesting read, gives a good understanding of the way to use a hi lite.

I have to say that it looks so simple, I guess that the reality is that it has taken you lots of experimenting to get to this point!
 
Hi Ben,
That's a great help to me and others. Just one question, what made you decide upon the floor sheeting panels rather than typical plastic sheeting. Was it cost or durability? My own thoughts, from what I have been reading, are that plastic/vinyl type sheeting can be cleaned off and discarded when too discoloured, but am interested in your own findings.

Malcolm
 
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This is a good example. You should do YouTube :)
 
Hi Ben,
That's a great help to me and others. Just one question, what made you decide upon the floor sheeting panels rather than typical plastic sheeting. Was it cost or durability? My own thoughts, from what I have been reading, are that plastic/vinyl type sheeting can be cleaned off and discarded when too discoloured, but am interested in your own findings.

Malcolm

The only way you get these kind of relfections is by using a gloss finish flooring. Perspex leaves joins that are hard to cover up and is far more fragile then the multiplanel flooring (but easier to transport).

The multiplanel costs about 2.5 times the cost of perspex to cover the same floor area and is certainly easier to clean and is more durable. Plus it looks so much tidier which is important for a first impression for clients.
 
I'm glad this thread has been revived as it's very useful. Ben, how much room do you have to play with here?
 
Studio is 36 square meters. About 5 x 7.

The black tunnel really helps with wrap and light bouncing around. Studio can be seen here in more detail.

I have about 3m to the left of the shooting area and very little to the right. This is OK for white BG shots as the main light tends to be just off to one side of the camera position.

I am giving thought as to how/where I put my paper BGs in order to have a bit of space on both sides for lighting whilst still preserving some distance between me and the subject (and the subject from the BG if required).
 
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