The universal trigger interface (The little box) - Page 5

James r · 13-05-2011, 19:35

This sounds very interesting just wondering how it's going so far and I'm very interested in buying one if it is what I think it is sound,light,laser...input to trigger Flash and camera wirelessly or wired not sure after reading the whole thread but would be definatly be interested.

Will it be able to trigger all nikon cameras?

cowasaki · 13-05-2011, 19:51 **Thread Starter**

Quote:

Originally Posted by James r

This sounds very interesting just wondering how it's going so far and I'm very interested in buying one if it is what I think it is sound,light,laser...input to trigger Flash and camera wirelessly or wired not sure after reading the whole thread but would be definatly be interested.

Will it be able to trigger all nikon cameras?

Yes anything with a 10 pin Nikon plug or anything that you can get an RF603 lead for

Both hardware and software heading towards the finishing line

James r · 13-05-2011, 21:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by cowasaki

Yes anything with a 10 pin Nikon plug or anything that you can get an RF603 lead for

Both hardware and software heading towards the finishing line

Sorry if this is a stupid question but what is an RF603 lead,
because i know my camera doesn't have a 10 pin nikon plug (its a D90) and i don't know what to look for to see if its compatible with a RF603 lead.

cowasaki · 13-05-2011, 21:13 **Thread Starter**

Quote:

Originally Posted by James r

Sorry if this is a stupid question but what is an RF603 lead,
because i know my camera doesn't have a 10 pin nikon plug (its a D90) and i don't know what to look for to see if its compatible with a RF603 lead.

D90 has one, it goes to the micro USB like socket if I remember rightly.

Nikon D90 D5000 D7000 D3100 all use this cable plus possibly others.

James r · 13-05-2011, 21:42

Thanks

, i was just wondering roughly what size would it be ? and i will be interested in buying one when available.

cowasaki · 13-05-2011, 21:51 **Thread Starter**

Quote:

Originally Posted by James r

Thanks

, i was just wondering roughly what size would it be ? and i will be interested in buying one when available.

I am hoping to have the prototype finished within the next 4 weeks. Not sure after that but keep an eye on the thread.

Wail · 13-05-2011, 23:55

Sorry to hear about finger, I hope you make a full recovery on that.

As for the device, great to see it coming to a "full version". Can't wait.

cowasaki · 15-05-2011, 08:26 **Thread Starter**

Well the prototype in a box is now built to the point that the LCD screen is fully working as is the contrast etc. The connections for the buzzer, the buttons and LEDs are made as is the IR receiver....

The I/O port, camera ports and HP flash ports are fitted and wired to the main circuit board but then do not do anything.

Just need to add the LP flash ports and build the output circuits for all the ports then build the external triggers.

Once that is done I design the board on the computer in order to create my actual circuit board PCB and I can decide if this is something that can easily be built in house or whether I speak to a contact I have about them building the circuit boards at their circuit board factory!

Now to think of the box it goes in and to also build the portable version

Question......

I have found a peli case just about the ideal size which would make a fantastic "rugged" case and be a great +£30 option but still need to decide what normal desktop case would be best.

Oh and people wanted to see mission control plus the prototype...

Kaouthia · 15-05-2011, 13:06

I have to say your "Mad Scientist Lab" looks much neater than mine.

Looks like it's coming along nicely.

cowasaki · 15-05-2011, 13:10 **Thread Starter**

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kaouthia

I have to say your "Mad Scientist Lab" looks much neater than mine.

Looks like it's coming along nicely.

I had just spent 3 hours moving everything around and re-wiring the whole place. My Christmas has now arrived.....

UNI-T 4102C 100MHz 2 channel digital storage oscilloscope with 16 channel logic analyser and 2 x current to voltage adapters

Niiiice so that can be seen on the desk.

My old 20MHz analogue scope is now redundant

SteveRob · 15-05-2011, 13:14

Looks like my kind of gadget with plenty of buttons

Kaouthia · 15-05-2011, 13:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by cowasaki

My old 20MHz analogue scope is now redundant

How much might you be after for that?

Calzor Suzay · 15-05-2011, 17:03

Any idea if the 'rugged' version will be as they're normally phrased 'water resistant'?
I know it's probablt a pita with electronics but I'm sure like as few other I'd probably use such a device out in the field, maybe once the final box is knocked up and we know sizes one of these sealed plastic bags with cable outlets can be used.

PS
Keep up the good work

I looked but I couldn't see a first aid kit

Wail · 15-05-2011, 18:28

Looking good Mr. Darren

.

Question; is this to be a battery powered device, or AC? Same for the rugged version?

Love the pictures

cowasaki · 15-05-2011, 22:28 **Thread Starter**

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wail

Looking good Mr. Darren

.

Question; is this to be a battery powered device, or AC? Same for the rugged version?

Love the pictures

Yes battery powered or DC via the USB plug so you can use a £3 car adapter with the supplied USB lead too

cowasaki · 15-05-2011, 22:30 **Thread Starter**

Quote:

Originally Posted by Calzor Suzay

Any idea if the 'rugged' version will be as they're normally phrased 'water resistant'?
I know it's probablt a pita with electronics but I'm sure like as few other I'd probably use such a device out in the field, maybe once the final box is knocked up and we know sizes one of these sealed plastic bags with cable outlets can be used.

PS
Keep up the good work

I looked but I couldn't see a first aid kit

Its in one of the drawers at the right

Most things are not visible, the Mac pro, proliant server and linux box are behind those drawers too!

cowasaki · 15-05-2011, 22:35 **Thread Starter**

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kaouthia

How much might you be after for that?

John has first refusal on it but if he doesn't want it then I will have to stick it in the adds section to comply with the rules. I will of course let you know before I do. It's probably worth £50 with one probe (my other probe is one I bought a few weeks ago for £20 so I would let it go for what I paid or let the buyer get another cheap probe for £6-10 from ebay). But like I said it has to be done via the correct route. It is a nice scope though.

cowasaki · 16-05-2011, 20:09 **Thread Starter**

Well I've been at it since 8:00 am, Fnarr! Fnarr!

Anyway just to keep everyone informed.....

The full on "cased prototype" has now gone past the breadboard version with:

All low power ports fully setup, wired and working.
All camera ports fully setup, wired and working.
Buzzer wired in and working.
RTC wired in and working.
Separate board for HP section built and populated (just needs wiring).
I/O port wired up for beam breaker circuit board.
All LED are state changeable by the software.
IR receiver fitted.
Board keepers fitted.
Now everything works from 5V USB so no need for external PSU.
Addition of 3.5mm sockets on rear as low power ports.

Then tonight in software land...

Re-written menu routine.
Added section into the setup menu allowing all IO functions to be tested.

Might finish the hardware tomorrow so long as nothing changes......

Still have the HP board to wire up.
IR output section to build.

Oh and a box with all the ports normally on a camera, flash etc to test the device.

Then I can start on the trigger leads

Uneducated_Rick · 16-05-2011, 20:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by cowasaki

Well I've been at it since 8:00 am, Fnarr! Fnarr!

Anyway just to keep everyone informed.....

The full on "cased prototype" has now gone past the breadboard version with:

All low power ports fully setup, wired and working.
All camera ports fully setup, wired and working.
Buzzer wired in and working.
RTC wired in and working.
Separate board for HP section built and populated (just needs wiring).
I/O port wired up for beam breaker circuit board.
All LED are state changeable by the software.
IR receiver fitted.
Board keepers fitted.
Now everything works from 5V USB so no need for external PSU.
Addition of 3.5mm sockets on rear as low power ports.

Then tonight in software land...

Re-written menu routine.
Added section into the setup menu allowing all IO functions to be tested.

Might finish the hardware tomorrow so long as nothing changes......

Still have the HP board to wire up.
IR output section to build.

Oh and a box with all the ports normally on a camera, flash etc to test the device.

Then I can start on the trigger leads

dunno what's taking so long

cowasaki · 17-05-2011, 22:32 **Thread Starter**

Well after getting back from the hospital about my finger I had to repair the bench power supply then started work on a quick side project which is a box with all of the same connections as the main box but inside it will have an intelligent circuit tester so that I can test all the functions (and timing!) of the main box. Only got as far as wiring up all the sockets and leads.....

RTC circuit board failed so had to re-wire the box to work with the alternative board until the RTC chips I ordered from Hong-Kong arrive so that I can add them to the actual main board.

The RTC has 56 bytes of battery backed up memory so I'm giving the option of saving all the variables to the RTC so that it remembers them between power offs.

Finished the high power board...... I have bought HIGHER value relays than what would be required for the flashes and now technically it could switch 10 amps at mains level.......... So how about turning the power on and off for the studio lights/spot lights etc for time lapse..... Will think about that.

Islander · 18-05-2011, 09:13

I've got something similar 99% finished - based around the open source Arduino with four sensor inputs and four trigger outputs. I'm not planning to market mine though, I just wanted something that would work for wildlife, water drops, bursting balloons, shattering glass and similar

Good luck with it

Jerm · 18-05-2011, 10:08

Excellent project and I'm very interested in this.

Digressing slightly, can anyone techy tell me what the maximum usable distance would be for a laser beam breaker ?

Ie, how far apart, in broad day light if that makes a difference, would it be possible to locate a laser beam and 'receiver' (sorry, not technical here at all !) which when broken would trigger the camera ?

Would 10m apart be too far ?

Tori_T · 18-05-2011, 10:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jerm

Digressing slightly, can anyone techy tell me what the maximum usable distance would be for a laser beam breaker ?

It would depend a lot on the power and focus of the laser; the really big ones can be bounced off the moon.

I would say, from a logistical POV, that it would be better to have the laser and detector side by side, and bounce the beam off a microprismatic surface (a bike rear reflector, or the silver strip stuff from Hi-Vis coats). You won't need power supplies at both ends then.

Jerm · 18-05-2011, 10:28

Thanks for that.

Apologies for the noddy questions, but what would I expect to pay for such a laser that was capable of a 10m (or so) throw ?

Is this something that's readily available in Maplins or similar ?

Islander · 18-05-2011, 10:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jerm

Thanks for that.

Apologies for the noddy questions, but what would I expect to pay for such a laser that was capable of a 10m (or so) throw ?

Is this something that's readily available in Maplins or similar ?

I bought a couple of these:

http://s243333424.e-shop.info/shop/a...6aid%3DOFL6%26

Tori_T · 18-05-2011, 11:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jerm

Is this something that's readily available in Maplins or similar ?

Maplin offer an IRLED beam breaker kit. You could try swapping out the LED module for an IR laser module and see if that extends the range if the kit is insufficient for your needs.

Jerm · 18-05-2011, 11:07

Ok, thank you.

Islander · 18-05-2011, 11:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tori_T

Maplin offer an IRLED beam breaker kit. You could try swapping out the LED module for an IR laser module and see if that extends the range if the kit is insufficient for your needs.

The problem with using IR lasers is the beam is invisible - much harder to set up and focus accurately although I've set up a subroutine in my controller code to continuously return a value from the receiver (my modules are dual purpose and can either be used with a discrete receiver sensor or with a retro reflector) for alignment purposes.

ST8 · 18-05-2011, 11:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by cowasaki

Well after getting back from the hospital about my finger I had to repair the bench power supply then started work on a quick side project which is a box with all of the same connections as the main box but inside it will have an intelligent circuit tester so that I can test all the functions (and timing!) of the main box. Only got as far as wiring up all the sockets and leads.....

RTC circuit board failed so had to re-wire the box to work with the alternative board until the RTC chips I ordered from Hong-Kong arrive so that I can add them to the actual main board.

The RTC has 56 bytes of battery backed up memory so I'm giving the option of saving all the variables to the RTC so that it remembers them between power offs.

Finished the high power board...... I have bought HIGHER value relays than what would be required for the flashes and now technically it could switch 10 amps at mains level.......... So how about turning the power on and off for the studio lights/spot lights etc for time lapse..... Will think about that.

you're going for relays rather than opto isolators? dont they incur some latency?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Islander

I've got something similar 99% finished - based around the open source Arduino with four sensor inputs and four trigger outputs. I'm not planning to market mine though, I just wanted something that would work for wildlife, water drops, bursting balloons, shattering glass and similar

Good luck with it

heh, ive just finished a similar setup myself. arduino system written from scratch based on the cameraaxe. 2 flash/camera triggers, wireless nikon camera trigger (the d70 has no remote cable so i just imitated the nikon remote). then droplet valve, gate sensor and laser trip wire

I'll have my arduino source code up soon if you want to nick owt.

Kaouthia · 18-05-2011, 13:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by Islander

I bought a couple of these:
http://s243333424.e-shop.info/shop/a...6aid%3DOFL6%26

Interesting, I might have to grab one or two of those. I just bought 3 of these from Proto-Pic, but they're out of stock now.

http://www.sparkfun.com/products/594

Not as powerful than the ones you've linked, but I've had successful setups with the laser & photoresistor a good 20ft apart with no problems.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ST8

you're going for relays rather than opto isolators? dont they incur some latency?

Hmmm... I would've said so too. Anything mechanical is going to have some kind of delay, no matter how small. For water droplets it's probably not a big deal (as long as that delay is consistent) as you'll be adding a delay anyway to get the impact, but for a sound trigger, that may be problematic.

Looks like there's a few of us building systems off Arduinos. Just etched my first ever shield last night. Today I need to drill and see if it actually works.

13-05-2011, 21:42	#125
James r Getting Comfy Real name : James Location: Lincoln UK Posts: 164 Camera: Nikon D800	Thanks , i was just wondering roughly what size would it be ? and i will be interested in buying one when available. Last edited by James r; 13-05-2011 at 21:45.

13-05-2011, 23:55	#127
Wail Loves the place Real name : Wail Location: Saudi Arabia / UK Posts: 5,220 Camera: Nikon D3x & D40 / Leica M9 & X1	Sorry to hear about finger, I hope you make a full recovery on that. As for the device, great to see it coming to a "full version". Can't wait. __________________ I do not intend to tip-toe through life only to arrive safely at death. The welfare of the subject is more important than the photograph.

15-05-2011, 13:06	#129
Kaouthia Feet under the table Real name : John Location: Lancaster Posts: 3,127 Camera: I don't play favourites	I have to say your "Mad Scientist Lab" looks much neater than mine. Looks like it's coming along nicely. __________________ John [ Blog ][ Flickr ][ Twitter ] The comments above are opinions based on my experiences and research. To prove or dispute any claims I make, click here.

15-05-2011, 17:03	#133
Calzor Suzay Been here a while Real name : Steve Location: Kent Posts: 285 Camera: Canon 7D	Any idea if the 'rugged' version will be as they're normally phrased 'water resistant'? I know it's probablt a pita with electronics but I'm sure like as few other I'd probably use such a device out in the field, maybe once the final box is knocked up and we know sizes one of these sealed plastic bags with cable outlets can be used. PS Keep up the good work I looked but I couldn't see a first aid kit __________________ flickr

16-05-2011, 20:09 Thread Starter	#138
cowasaki Moderator Unpaid Babysitter Real name : Darren Location: Bamber Bridge, Preston. Posts: 17,398 Camera: Dig D700,D300,500D Film Camera: FM, F80, EM.	Well I've been at it since 8:00 am, Fnarr! Fnarr! Anyway just to keep everyone informed..... The full on "cased prototype" has now gone past the breadboard version with: All low power ports fully setup, wired and working. All camera ports fully setup, wired and working. Buzzer wired in and working. RTC wired in and working. Separate board for HP section built and populated (just needs wiring). I/O port wired up for beam breaker circuit board. All LED are state changeable by the software. IR receiver fitted. Board keepers fitted. Now everything works from 5V USB so no need for external PSU. Addition of 3.5mm sockets on rear as low power ports. Then tonight in software land... Re-written menu routine. Added section into the setup menu allowing all IO functions to be tested. Might finish the hardware tomorrow so long as nothing changes...... Still have the HP board to wire up. IR output section to build. Oh and a box with all the ports normally on a camera, flash etc to test the device. Then I can start on the trigger leads Last edited by cowasaki; 16-05-2011 at 20:11.

13-05-2011, 19:35	#121
James r Getting Comfy Real name : James Location: Lincoln UK Posts: 164 Camera: Nikon D800	This sounds very interesting just wondering how it's going so far and I'm very interested in buying one if it is what I think it is sound,light,laser...input to trigger Flash and camera wirelessly or wired not sure after reading the whole thread but would be definatly be interested. Will it be able to trigger all nikon cameras?

15-05-2011, 08:26 Thread Starter	#128
cowasaki Moderator Unpaid Babysitter Real name : Darren Location: Bamber Bridge, Preston. Posts: 17,398 Camera: Dig D700,D300,500D Film Camera: FM, F80, EM.	Well the prototype in a box is now built to the point that the LCD screen is fully working as is the contrast etc. The connections for the buzzer, the buttons and LEDs are made as is the IR receiver.... The I/O port, camera ports and HP flash ports are fitted and wired to the main circuit board but then do not do anything. Just need to add the LP flash ports and build the output circuits for all the ports then build the external triggers. Once that is done I design the board on the computer in order to create my actual circuit board PCB and I can decide if this is something that can easily be built in house or whether I speak to a contact I have about them building the circuit boards at their circuit board factory! Now to think of the box it goes in and to also build the portable version Question...... I have found a peli case just about the ideal size which would make a fantastic "rugged" case and be a great +£30 option but still need to decide what normal desktop case would be best. Oh and people wanted to see mission control plus the prototype...

15-05-2011, 13:14	#131
SteveRob Getting Comfy Real name : Stephen Location: Manchester Posts: 212 Camera: 5D Mk II	Looks like my kind of gadget with plenty of buttons

15-05-2011, 18:28	#134
Wail Loves the place Real name : Wail Location: Saudi Arabia / UK Posts: 5,220 Camera: Nikon D3x & D40 / Leica M9 & X1	Looking good Mr. Darren . Question; is this to be a battery powered device, or AC? Same for the rugged version? Love the pictures

17-05-2011, 22:32 Thread Starter	#140
cowasaki Moderator Unpaid Babysitter Real name : Darren Location: Bamber Bridge, Preston. Posts: 17,398 Camera: Dig D700,D300,500D Film Camera: FM, F80, EM.	Well after getting back from the hospital about my finger I had to repair the bench power supply then started work on a quick side project which is a box with all of the same connections as the main box but inside it will have an intelligent circuit tester so that I can test all the functions (and timing!) of the main box. Only got as far as wiring up all the sockets and leads..... RTC circuit board failed so had to re-wire the box to work with the alternative board until the RTC chips I ordered from Hong-Kong arrive so that I can add them to the actual main board. The RTC has 56 bytes of battery backed up memory so I'm giving the option of saving all the variables to the RTC so that it remembers them between power offs. Finished the high power board...... I have bought HIGHER value relays than what would be required for the flashes and now technically it could switch 10 amps at mains level.......... So how about turning the power on and off for the studio lights/spot lights etc for time lapse..... Will think about that.

18-05-2011, 09:13	#141
Islander Forum Regular Real name : Tony Location: Orkney Posts: 623	I've got something similar 99% finished - based around the open source Arduino with four sensor inputs and four trigger outputs. I'm not planning to market mine though, I just wanted something that would work for wildlife, water drops, bursting balloons, shattering glass and similar Good luck with it

18-05-2011, 10:08	#142
Jerm Forum Regular Real name : Jeremy Nako Posts: 834	Excellent project and I'm very interested in this. Digressing slightly, can anyone techy tell me what the maximum usable distance would be for a laser beam breaker ? Ie, how far apart, in broad day light if that makes a difference, would it be possible to locate a laser beam and 'receiver' (sorry, not technical here at all !) which when broken would trigger the camera ? Would 10m apart be too far ? __________________ Jeremy Nako Professional Event Photographer www.NakPhotography.co.uk

18-05-2011, 10:28	#144
Jerm Forum Regular Real name : Jeremy Nako Posts: 834	Thanks for that. Apologies for the noddy questions, but what would I expect to pay for such a laser that was capable of a 10m (or so) throw ? Is this something that's readily available in Maplins or similar ?

18-05-2011, 11:07	#147
Jerm Forum Regular Real name : Jeremy Nako Posts: 834	Ok, thank you.