Total beginner: How do I setup basics using speed lights?

Messages
1,241
Name
Bal Sanghera
Edit My Images
Yes
Hi guys I went on bit of a shopping spree on Amazon and dont know what to do now lol :bang: got a bit carried away and ended up buying:

2x Yonguno YN460-II
31QuCvuIEEL._SL500_AA300_.jpg


1x Yonguno RF-602 + 3 X Receivers
41K7sln1rYL._SL500_AA300_.jpg


2x Konig Photography Light Stand
31W0PItEW8L._SL500_AA300_.jpg


2x 33" White Brollies
21oBq%2BhhrrL._SL500_AA300_.jpg


2x Interfit Strobies Umbrella Holder with Hotshoe Adapter STR117
419-dz1j3pL._SL500_AA300_.jpg


I also have a Canon 580EX II, I was going to post in talk basics section as "Absolutely no question is too silly or basic for us in here" but thought would get a better response in here...

I dont really know what my question is :thinking: I guess I want to know is firstly how to get it all working together as for some reason when I connected the two Yonguno flash guns to the recievers both had to be set to M instead S1 and S2.
 
Also how should I go about using the stands and brollies? Anyone got examples of how they put it all together? Not sure I am doing it right or wrong :nuts:

IMG_1877.jpg


IMG_1890.jpg


IMG_1894.jpg
 
im not sure if you need to set your flash to anything but usually putting it onto Manual will help. Connect the receiver to the flash and then the umbrella mount. Looks like you did that ok by the pictures.

Its a shoot through umbrella so i'd advice using it at a shoot through, that way you can get the umbrella as close as you can without being seen in frame.

The idea is that the larger the light source in relation to the subject the softer the light will be.

Where to put the light? Best way to start is hold the lightstand, stretch your arm out straight and at 45degress and plonk the light down.

Set your camera to manual, 1/125th is usually the max sync on those triggers and then a low aperture and fire a test show.

When I shoot with flashguns I generally never use them above 1/4 power as im worried about burning them out. If you find that you need more light up your ISO or lower your f number.

Remember that shutter speed doesnt affect (effect) flash, only ISO, aperture, flash power and flash to subject distance.

One more thing, since you have two flashes you could set the 2nd one as a rear hair light.

I hope that helps a little.
 
Thanks for the reply, exactly what I needed. Just want to make sure I wasnt doing anything totally wrong.

Guess I just need to keep playing with it until I figure it all out
 
The kit is fairly simple, just put all flashes on manual and camera on manual and experiment with it, thats how im learning
 
First and foremost, I'd go to the strobist: 101 section... this is pretty much the Mecca for anyone starting out with off-camera flash.

I assume you've got things working in sync with each other by now? If you have (by the looks of the photos) then learn what the lights are actually doing. Strobist actually runs a bootcamp through it's flickr page (and on the main website I think) that is a set of exercise that teach you, through taking photos with different light position, just how shadow is created, how subject-to-flash distance/subject-to-background distance produces different results, and how highlights and reflections are created and dealt with.

There are loads of other good resources - Light: Science & Magic and The Speedlighter's Handbook being two very popular books - but try to take too much in and you may start to lose focus. Stick to Strobist and you won't go wrong. Also, have a look at the assignment sections; there are some really interesting essays about lighting in there :)
 
sorry got a bit of a question, I read that 1/125 is the fastest shutter speed for sync is that for all flashes or just the ones shown above?
 
Once you got it to the point where you can fire a flash from your camera just try this as a basic start.

Use only one flash to start with.

Pick a subject. (partner/sibling/pet/cuddly toy).
Camera to manual F8 1/125 ISO 100.
Flash to manual on about 1/2 power.
Set the stand with cold shoe/trigger/flash/brolly about 2 metres from subject in front of and very slightly to the side.

Have a couple of goes using the histrogram to check levels and adjust flash level to suit, or adjust the aperture.

You should get a result pretty quick with that. Start using the second flash when you feel confident your getting results with the first.

Hope helpful.
 
sorry got a bit of a question, I read that 1/125 is the fastest shutter speed for sync is that for all flashes or just the ones shown above?

In manual mode, the flash just flashes, that's it. The duration of the flash (in thousands of a second) vary with the power; the lower the power the faster the burst of the flash.

Generally, remote triggers will work up to the camera's maximum standard sync speed, which is usually 1/250th (although some like the D70s can go to 1/500th). Most trigger systems that send fire signals (as opposed to TTL systems) will cope with 1/200th or 1/250th, although some triggers do tend to work better a little slower. Once you start seeing a dark section of the frame, basically you know that you've reached maximum sync speed.
 
Last edited:
Once you got it to the point where you can fire a flash from your camera just try this as a basic start.

Use only one flash to start with.

Pick a subject. (partner/sibling/pet/cuddly toy).
Camera to manual F8 1/125 ISO 100.
Flash to manual on about 1/2 power.
Set the stand with cold shoe/trigger/flash/brolly about 2 metres from subject in front of and very slightly to the side.

Have a couple of goes using the histrogram to check levels and adjust flash level to suit, or adjust the aperture.

You should get a result pretty quick with that. Start using the second flash when you feel confident your getting results with the first.

Hope helpful.

even though i'm fairly new to OCF, these are guidelines I tend to stick to.

One thing that's not obvious though is that the closer your light source is, the softer it will be.
 
even though i'm fairly new to OCF, these are guidelines I tend to stick to.

One thing that's not obvious though is that the closer your light source is, the softer it will be.

And then to get some really sick and tight dof shots, turn down the flash, open the aperture to as wide as it gets, and then get them eyes sharp and the rest out of focus. Good stuff and fun to play with.
 
Marcus Geezer said:
And then to get some really sick and tight dof shots, turn down the flash, open the aperture to as wide as it gets, and then get them eyes sharp and the rest out of focus. Good stuff and fun to play with.

What's the best way to get the eyes pin sharp? I centre point focus to the eyes and still don't seem to be pin sharp.

What's the best aperture roughly to capture a sharp face and eyes and slightly blurry background?
 
What's the best way to get the eyes pin sharp? I centre point focus to the eyes and still don't seem to be pin sharp.

What's the best aperture roughly to capture a sharp face and eyes and slightly blurry background?

I always use centre point focus, then re-compose. But if you are using F2.8 or less then you have to be REALLY careful to make sure you dont let the focus slip.
 
It all depends on lens quality and DOF. Try this it will help with knowing how much distance for your camera and lens.
 
Back
Top