Macro on the cheap

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There are multiple methods to get into macro photography. the most obvious is to get a macro lens.

But what about the cheaper alternative methods? I don't really fancy buying ANOTHER lens (and an expensive one at that), already got way too much lenses of 6.

Here are the alternatives I've found:
-extension tube (£6 or £50 for AF)
-macro filter (£110 for 500D)
-reverse mount the lens on the camera (£3)
-reverse mount a lens in front of another
-modify an old lens (which still has the problem of ever increasing, dust gathering lens collection)

Which one is the best option? and which lens should be used in that instance? (I'm thinking a 600g zoom isn't suitable to be used on £6 extension tubes)

thanks!
 
Ive been looking in to this as well. I dont really want to put any cheap glass in front of my lenses so ive discounted the Raynox for now.
Ive tried a reverse mount but found that a pain to use, as the lens will always be shooting wide open unless you use the DOF trick, which i found to be a lot of hassle. The same goes for the extension tubes without the electrical contacts.

For me the Polaroid version of the kenko tubes seems about the best choice. These are about half the price of the Kenko ones but seem to have all the necessary connections etc.

Ill be interested in reading the other replies you get.
 
Is it worth trying the reverse mounting ring seeing as its just so cheap? Worst comes to worst it's only a few quid. I ordered one a few days ago just to try
 
Ive tried a reverse mount but found that a pain to use, as the lens will always be shooting wide open unless you use the DOF trick, which i found to be a lot of hassle.

How so? a Nikon 50mm D or any old manual lens has manual aperture control on the lens.
 
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How so? a Nikon 50mm D or any old manual lens has manual aperture control on the lens.

What do you mean by how so? It seems to me you know the answer already, and if you look at my gear list you can see i dont have any of those lenses you mention.

:thinking:
 
I now know the answer without having to read through your profile. But the answer to your comment is to use a lens with a manual aperture control, which is an option for the OP he may not have thought of after reading your post.
 
I now know the answer without having to read through your profile. But the answer to your comment is to use a lens with a manual aperture control, which is an option for the OP he may not have thought of after reading your post.

So why the "How so?" comment? It sounded like you were questioning why i had issues, yet you know i dont have any manual lenses or Nikon so you can see why it was a hassle to me. It just seemed a bit strange to question me directly rather than offer the OP the info.

I dont want to derail this thread so ill pull out now. Ill be getting some tubes in the next week or so anyway so for me its sorted.
 
unfortunately same as Dave, I don't have any manual aperture lens. well, I do have a few M42 lenses, but don't fancy fetching those from the attic.

Dave, are you getting tubes with electrical contacts? do tell us how you get on.


Is it worth trying the reverse mounting ring seeing as its just so cheap? Worst comes to worst it's only a few quid. I ordered one a few days ago just to try

good point, so just ordered a 58mm reverse mount for my 85mm f1.8, hope it is the correct focal length? :shrug:

if not, "it's only a few quid" :LOL:
 
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Ive tried a reverse mount but found that a pain to use, as the lens will always be shooting wide open unless you use the DOF trick, which i found to be a lot of hassle.

If I was the OP and unaware of using a MA lens with a reverse ring Id read your comment as all lenses not just your specific gear, you havent specified the lens you had issues with besides whats in your sig and most people have more gear than they list, you also havent provided any info to state that any other lens will actually provide aperture adjust.

Anyway, my mistake if I misread your post.

Reverse Rings are a good choice op.
 
Apparently you can set the aperture on an electronic only lens by holding the aperture control button (exposure compensation) as you take the lens off the body and it will stay put
 
Apparently you can set the aperture on an electronic only lens by holding the aperture control button (exposure compensation) as you take the lens off the body and it will stay put

Its the DoF Preview Button you need to hold down on the Canons.
 
Wuyan, what lenses do you have?
24-105 f4 walk about
17-40 f4 UWA fun
70-300 f4-5.6 Tamron cheapo tele (funny enough, this lens taunts 0.5x macro feature)
85 f1.8 portrait
35 f2 general low light

I'm thinking either of the prime would be good for reverse ring mount or extension tube?
 
The wider the lens the more magnification when reversing. So the 35 would be much better than the 85.
 
I have a reversing ring I use on an old manual Pentax zoom lens. Works very well when you get it all right.

Focusing is that hardest part. I found setting the DOF with the ring f/11 ish then using a finger to push the aperture lever to open it up helped, then just let go before you fire the shutter.

For £2.40 I got some great results in the kitchen. Not taken it out side yet, need a way to mount a flash probably for more light.

FYI, wider lens = closer focus with a reversed lens. Mine is a 28-75 lens I think but found 35 was a good balance of magnification vs control for me. at 28mm I was getting a bit more than 2x life size with a working distance of about 3cm from the end of the lens I think.
 
24-105 f4 walk about
17-40 f4 UWA fun
70-300 f4-5.6 Tamron cheapo tele (funny enough, this lens taunts 0.5x macro feature)
85 f1.8 portrait
35 f2 general low light

I'm thinking either of the prime would be good for reverse ring mount or extension tube?

With those lenses your best bet is reversing. I don't think any have enough standard magnification to greater what you would using a reversing ring by using extension tubes.

I would imagine the 35 reversed on the 85 but others probably have more helpful, user experience of it.
 
24-105 f4 walk about
17-40 f4 UWA fun
70-300 f4-5.6 Tamron cheapo tele (funny enough, this lens taunts 0.5x macro feature)
85 f1.8 portrait
35 f2 general low light

I'm thinking either of the prime would be good for reverse ring mount or extension tube?


I'm not into macro, so your better taking advice from those that are.
Not great examples, but just to give you an idea of what can be done with your 24-105 and a set of tubes.



YellowRose_zps70448470.jpg




Red_zpsffb7da94.jpg
 
A set of auto tubes on your 85mm will give you around 1:1 and you still retain aperture control from the body, and a usable working distance - much much less a pain in the ass than reverse mounting and dicking around with manual tubes.
 
Ok whats the DOF preview button? lol

Sorry about that Dan, my answer seems a bit abrupt reading it back:LOL:

The Depth Of Field preview is a smaller button on the camera body next to the lens mount which could be just below the lens release button or on the other side.

The DoF preview does close the Aperture blades down to the designated fstop but only for preview. It doesn't effect exposure (or compensation). The method for electronically controlling the Aperture only works at the moment of exposure which then returns to open.

The DoF button allows the blades to be held open, meanwhile you can disconnect the lens and whist still holding the button and the electrical contacts will disengage removing operating power from the lens leaving the blades in situ.

Its not really recommended you do this, but it is a way or setting an fstop if you wish.(y)
 
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Sorry about that Dan, my answer seems a bit abrupt reading it back:LOL:

The Depth Of Field preview is a smaller button on the camera body next to the lens mount which could be just below the lens release button or on the other side.

The DoF preview does close the Aperture blades down to the designated fstop but only for preview. It doesn't effect exposure (or compensation). The method for electronically controlling the Aperture only works at the moment of exposure which then returns to open.

The DoF button allows the blades to be held open, meanwhile you can disconnect the lens and whist still holding the button and the electrical contacts will disengage removing operating power from the lens leaving the blades in situ.

Its not really recommended you do this, but it is a way or setting an fstop if you wish.(y)

no probs thanks for getting back to me - didnt even know i could do that lol
 
So I got the reverse mount rings and they are really hard to use. Due to low DoF, had to use the DoF preview trick to lock lens at f11 or even smaller, that made the view finder very dark and pretty much to make out anything at all.

I'm not into macro, so your better taking advice from those that are.
Not great examples, but just to give you an idea of what can be done with your 24-105 and a set of tubes.

A set of auto tubes on your 85mm will give you around 1:1 and you still retain aperture control from the body, and a usable working distance - much much less a pain in the ass than reverse mounting and dicking around with manual tubes.

so which auto extension tube would people recommend? I'm thinking has to be metal construction and solid with good electrical contact mechanisms.

When I was on Nikon, I bought the cheapest AF tubes and it produces Error most of the time due to poor electrical contacts.
 
So I got the reverse mount rings and they are really hard to use. Due to low DoF, had to use the DoF preview trick to lock lens at f11 or even smaller, that made the view finder very dark and pretty much to make out anything at all.





so which auto extension tube would people recommend? I'm thinking has to be metal construction and solid with good electrical contact mechanisms.

When I was on Nikon, I bought the cheapest AF tubes and it produces Error most of the time due to poor electrical contacts.

Personally use Kenko tubes
 
I'm surprised no one has mentioned the Raynox DCR 250? It's superb for macro on a budget and its a lens attachment that actually works, and will fit any lens up to 67mm filter thread.

Have a look at some shots on Flickr.
 
I have a set of AF Kenko tubes. I've used them about 4 times! :LOL: They're good but you could easily settle for the MF version and save yourself some money.
 
I have a set of AF Kenko tubes. I've used them about 4 times! :LOL: They're good but you could easily settle for the MF version and save yourself some money.

The problem with non-auto tubes is that you lose Aperture control from the body which is a right pain in the ass (just like reversing rings) , don't waste your money
 
Not sure if anyone's mentioned this yet, but by reversing one lens on the front of another you still have aperture control over the lens mounted on the camera. This means the viewfinder is nice and bright for composing your shot and it stops down when you press the shutter as normal.

All of the macro shots on my flickr are done with this method if you want to see what the results are like.
 
I use 3 different options:

With a dslr: A Sigma 28-80 AF lens which gives 2:1 macro on the 80mm end. £15 on ebay in mint condition.

With a Nex 5: Raynox 150 (£38) with either a 50mm f1.7 Minolta MD (£20) or a 35-70 f3.5 Minolta MD (£30) (but it clips on to the front of any lens). Good thing about the Raynox is that it is light and small and fits onto any lens - you just need to switch to manual focus as the AF can go nuts with it on trying to find focus.

With a Nex 5: Cosina 'plastic fantastic' - 100mm f3.5 macro lens (£40). I have the older manual focus version - but there are AF versions for all popular mounts - around £70 for the AF version. If buying used, make sure it comes with the 1:1 adapter, otherwise it's 2:1.
http://www.pentaxforums.com/userreviews/cosina-100mm-f1-3-5-mc-makro.html

The Nex with live view, tilting screen and focus peaking and full aperture control on the lens (legacy lenses with £10 adapter) makes macro relatively easy. With the dslr I just use the Sigma as it's full auto everything. The 1:1 adapter from the Cosina also fits on the front of the Sigma to provide 1:1 macro.

I tried extension tubes and reversing a lens but was too much faffing and light loss for me - I prefer the 3 options above.
 
Not sure if anyone's mentioned this yet, but by reversing one lens on the front of another you still have aperture control over the lens mounted on the camera. This means the viewfinder is nice and bright for composing your shot and it stops down when you press the shutter as normal.

All of the macro shots on my flickr are done with this method if you want to see what the results are like.
tell me more please.

how is the magnification ratio calculated? can I mount small lens (eg 52mm filter thread) in front of a larger lens (eg 77mm filter thread)?

if I mount 35mm in front of 24-105mm, will that give a good range of macro magnifications (including larger than 1:1)?




re Raynox DCR 250. it's only compatible between 52-67mm filter thread. I'd like to use zoom lenses to make focusing on tripod easier, but 24-105 is 77mm.
 
so which auto extension tube would people recommend? I'm thinking has to be metal construction and solid with good electrical contact mechanisms.

When I was on Nikon, I bought the cheapest AF tubes and it produces Error most of the time due to poor electrical contacts.

Polaroid extension tubes for me. Half the price of the Kenkos, same functionality.
 
wuyanxu said:
tell me more please.

how is the magnification ratio calculated? can I mount small lens (eg 52mm filter thread) in front of a larger lens (eg 77mm filter thread)?

if I mount 35mm in front of 24-105mm, will that give a good range of macro magnifications (including larger than 1:1)?

re Raynox DCR 250. it's only compatible between 52-67mm filter thread. I'd like to use zoom lenses to make focusing on tripod easier, but 24-105 is 77mm.

You could use a step down ring? It'll vignette but at the longer end it would be easy to crop out.

That said, in that situation Macro tubes might be the better option to save the hassle.
 
tell me more please.

how is the magnification ratio calculated? can I mount small lens (eg 52mm filter thread) in front of a larger lens (eg 77mm filter thread)?

if I mount 35mm in front of 24-105mm, will that give a good range of macro magnifications (including larger than 1:1)?

Magnification is just the focal length of the lens on the camera divided by the focal length of the lens reversed in front (this assumes both lenses are focussed at infinity, but moving the focus rings doesn't seem to noticeably change the magnification for any of the lenses I've tried it with).

So with your 24-105 at 24mm it will give 24/35 = 0.69x magnification. At 105mm it will be 105/35 = 3x magnification.

One thing to watch out for is that with some lens combinations you will get some vignetting; this happens with a 50mm f1.8 reversed on the front of my 18-55 kit lens, but not when the same 50mm lens is reversed on my 100mm f2. This requires a bit of cropping to remove the very edges of the image so it might be worth trying with a few different lenses to find a combination that works well.

You can use a lens with a smaller filter thread on one with a larger thread (I use one with a 55mm thread in front of one with a 58mm thread), but I think 52-77 might be too much of a difference and you'd end up with vignetting. Coupling rings can be got for just a couple of pounds from ebay though, so it might still be worth trying.
 
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Thank you. I'll give this coupling ring a go, looks to be doable. I've had auto extension tubes before and wasn't a fan of them, bought cheapest ones, which kept throwing errors. So the Polaroid auto tubes will be my last resort.

Had a try with all my lenses by holding them in front as though being screwed on. the 35mm and 17-40L both only produced a tiny dot. the 85/1.8 is usable at the front of 24-105L with very little vignetting at 105mm. This should give me 1.27x magnification :D

So ordered a 58-77mm couple ring. will let you know how I get on :)
 
Did you try the 35mm in front of the 85/1.8? Would give you about 2.4x and the big aperture should make things nice and bright in the viewfinder. Probably best to try the 85 and 24-105 first though, as that much magnification does take a bit of getting used to!
 
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