Advice for first softbox

Phil V said:
I wouldn't think so, depending on your flashgun though, you might find some positions more suitable than others.

I'd guess the strain on the joint would be no more than a Rogue Flashbender.
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An empty speedlight weighs *more* than a flashbender... w/ 4-5 batteries it will definitely be more. No idea if that would be a problem though; I kind of doubt it.
Most of the time a softbox is pointed down; no reason why the flash couldn't be at 90* which would reduce the strain significantly. And it would give you easier access to the power settings.
 
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I did some tests after the last time this came up - getting even light coverage in a softbox.

A double-diffuser is by far the best way of doing it. Works pretty well with speedlites too. Fitting a Stofen to a speedlite doesn't make much difference in a single-diffuser softbox, and if you think how a Stofen is supposed to work, that makes sense (it sends the lion's share of the light straight forward). To make a Stofen do the job well, cut holes in the sides, or stick some patches of kitchen foil inside the front and adjust for best result.

Another effective method with a speedlite in a single-diffuser softbox is to use the wide panel. Works better than you might think.
 
sk66 said:
An empty speedlight weighs less than a flashbender... w/ 4-5 batteries it will definitely be more. No idea if that would be a problem though; I kind of doubt it.
Most of the time a softbox is pointed down; no reason why the flash couldn't be at 90* which would reduce the strain significantly. And it would give you easier access to the power settings.
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There is no reason not to use the flash at 90deg, depending on triggers. You can also swivel body which cuts the strain and might make it easier to get to the controls.

The Flashbender isn't heavy, but it is large. I'm not doing the maths, but experience says it's a lot more strain on the pivot than the weight would suggest, particularly in wind.
 
HoppyUK said:
I did some tests after the last time this came up - getting even light coverage in a softbox.

A double-diffuser is by far the best way of doing it. Works pretty well with speedlites too. Fitting a Stofen to a speedlite doesn't make much difference in a single-diffuser softbox, and if you think how a Stofen is supposed to work, that makes sense (it sends the lion's share of the light straight forward). To make a Stofen do the job well, cut holes in the sides, or stick some patches of kitchen foil inside the front and adjust for best result.

Another effective method with a speedlite in a single-diffuser softbox is to use the wide panel. Works better than you might think.
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Good points.
The size of the softbox and distance of diffusion from the flash certainly also makes a difference... And you don't always want/need perfectly even diffusion. IMO, perfectly even diffusion would be "a negative."
 
Hopefully that means all of ours are nearly here.
Looking forward to seeing the results.
 
Phil V said:
This is what I'd recommend, cheap, well made, easy to put up and gives you an accessory mount that will help you get other modifiers that'll still be useful once you move up to studio lights
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But it has no grid ?
 
JennyGW said:
But it has no grid ?
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Well spotted.

I never said it did. :thinking:


You could fit one though;)

And for the price and functionality it's a great buy. The softbox is almost free with a decent quality speedlight adaptor.
 
Phil V said:
Well spotted.

I never said it did. :thinking:


You could fit one though;)

And for the price and functionality it's a great buy. The softbox is almost free with a decent quality speedlight adaptor.
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It needs one, lol ;) It's a good buy, but I hate buying softboxes without grids.
 
HoppyUK said:
I did some tests after the last time this came up - getting even light coverage in a softbox.

A double-diffuser is by far the best way of doing it. Works pretty well with speedlites too. Fitting a Stofen to a speedlite doesn't make much difference in a single-diffuser softbox, and if you think how a Stofen is supposed to work, that makes sense (it sends the lion's share of the light straight forward). To make a Stofen do the job well, cut holes in the sides, or stick some patches of kitchen foil inside the front and adjust for best result.

Another effective method with a speedlite in a single-diffuser softbox is to use the wide panel. Works better than you might think.
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As well as two diffusing baffles the unique Elinchrom central umbrella slot allows various deflectors to be added. This also turns your softbox into a beauty dish when the baffles are removed. Since I added one, to my 120cm octa setup I don't have to worry about hotspots from uneven light across the box anymore. It used to be nearly a stop and now it's less then 1/3.
 
Mines been delivers today. Very good first impression with the quality.
 
I'll be trying mine out over the next few nights, I've got the perfect model with a 9 month pregnant partner. When i get around to editing them may be another matter though....
 
minnnt said:
Would this fit the Lencarta Smart Flash 2?
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Not really.

You could make it fit, quite oddly the softbox fits nicely 'around' the s fit adaptor, but I think you'd need to fit a speedring to make it s fit proper.

But for similar money you can get an s fit softbox (Garry might send the boys round if I post a link though;))
 
Has anyone looked for or found a cheap grid for these softboxes? Very impressed with mine so far.
 
Ben6 said:
Has anyone looked for or found a cheap grid for these softboxes? Very impressed with mine so far.
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My '80cm' example is an odd size (74cm? IIRC), I think a grid that fits will be a challenge.
 
Phil V said:
My '80cm' example is an odd size (74cm? IIRC), I think a grid that fits will be a challenge.
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Ive just measured mine and it's around 74cm too, never mind was just a thought.
Glad I asked that question on here before ordering a 80cm one and regretting it though.
 
Ben6 said:
Ive just measured mine and it's around 74cm too, never mind was just a thought.
Glad I asked that question on here before ordering a 80cm one and regretting it though.
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I will look for one, when I've got time to play with.
 
You know, I don't really think a grid is all that significant. What they do is make the light "harder" (more parallel) and control spill. And both can be accomplished relatively easily/reasonably without a grid, particularly with these smaller sizes.
 
Phil V said:
This is what I'd recommend, cheap, well made, easy to put up and gives you an accessory mount that will help you get other modifiers that'll still be useful once you move up to studio lights
Click to expand...

I'm unsure about size requirements, I can see this is good for portrait work, would it be ok for full body shots?
 
From my limited* experience, an umbrella is better for this as the spill from the bottom fill in a bit as it drops off. Softboxes limit spill from going downwards so will create a shadow or at least an under exposed section.







* I know diddly squat. :D
 
WelshNoob said:
I'm unsure about size requirements, I can see this is good for portrait work, would it be ok for full body shots?
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I'd prefer to use something bigger for full length, that said, that'd also mean a ceiling higher than 8ft. For ideal results a domestic studio is theoretically useless. But every week I see domestic studio work posted that is absolutely gorgeous.

As @Garry Edwards always says, lighting is all about creatively overcoming limitations.

Or: have a go, you never know what you might end up with.
 
Just resurrect this thread wondered how these soft boxes suggested by Phil V are standing up to a bit of use
 
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