B&W Developing Equipment

Carl Hall

Carl Hall

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Hi guys,

I've finially decided to take the next step and develop my own black and white film. I just wanted to double check with you kind folk to make sure I'm buying the right equipment and chemicals :) I'll be buying them from AG Photographic this afternoon hopefully as I need to get started tomorrow or Saturday (taking my new camera to Wembley on Sunday for the NFL and I want to get some film through it beforehand to check it's all working!).

I've read a lot on this forum, and found the B&W film developing thread to be really useful. As far as I know, this is what I need:
  • Changing bag
  • Developing tank
  • Film reel(s)
  • 3 x measuring jugs
  • Thermometer
  • Film squeegee
  • Film clips
A Paterson film processing kit from http://www.ag-photographic.co.uk/paterson-film-processing-kit-2562-p.asp - I'm assuming these reels are the sort that can be used for 135 and 120??​
  • Developer
Ilford Ilfosil 3 from http://www.ag-photographic.co.uk/ilford-ilfosol-3-352-p.asp - I have read good things about this and it's recommended on the AG Photographic page, but if anyone thinks anything else would be better then I'd appreciate the tip!​
  • Stop
  • Fixer
  • Scissors
  • Can opener
Should be able to find these lying around the house


​
I'll be shooting FP4+ and HP5 in both 135 and 120.

If anyone notices anything that I'm missing or anything I've picked that's wrong, please let me know :) I'm really excited to start doing it myself!
 
I have 2 film squeegees but never use them and run between my fingers ..feels safer to me Get a couple of old rolls of film to practice loading in the changing bag......its the one part you need to be able to do with your eyes shut

this is my developing kit I keep in a plastic bin and the chemicals in a smaller bin and I also use a builders bucket filled with water at 20deg C
It works fine for me B&W

The list you have above looks just fine

View attachment 23406

View attachment 23407

1.Kodak HC110 Developer
2.Tetenal Superfix plus Fixer
3.RA50 Rinse aid
4.Film changing bag
5.Paterson System 4 Developing tank
6.Thermometer
7.Film drying clips
8.Measuring beakers
9.Tray
10.Chemical storage bin
11.Used 120 film spools
 
Last edited:
Looks good. Probably a good idea to buy a tank that will hold 2 reels of 120 or larger.
I use Ilfosol 3 and haven't used anything else since I returned to film.

You're gonna love it..
 
Carl Hall said:
I've read a lot on this forum, and found the B&W film developing thread to be really useful. As far as I know, this is what I need:
  • Changing bag
  • Developer
Ilford Ilfosil 3 from http://www.ag-photographic.co.uk/ilford-ilfosol-3-352-p.asp - I have read good things about this and it's recommended on the AG Photographic page, but if anyone thinks anything else would be better then I'd appreciate the tip!​
Click to expand...
​
The changing bag is only necessary if you don't have any place that you can make dark. I use our spare bathroom (which has no windows) for film developing and when I'm putting the film onto the reel, I just turn out the lights and place a towel at the bottom of the door.

As for developer, I can't comment on Ilfosol 3, although I'm sure that it's fine. I personally use Ilford LC29 for most of my developing, which seems to work well and it can be used in 1+29 dilutions to save a bit of money. I have recently started using Ilford DD-X for faster films and it seems to be pretty good, although it's a little bit more expensive to develop per roll than Ilford's other offerings (although still far cheaper than any lab).

trevorbray said:
Looks good. Probably a good idea to buy a tank that will hold 2 reels of 120 or larger.
Click to expand...

I have a tank that only fits one reel of 120/220, but I just put two rolls of 120 on that single reel. This works well for the small volumes of B&W that I shoot, but I would agree that it could be worth considering getting something bigger if you planned to shoot lots of B&W film.
 
I'd suggest having at least two containers to hold the made up stop and fixer as you can reuse these. I don't know if Ilfosol is a one shot developer - if not, then you'll need a bottle to store this in as well. Containers for chemicals weren't on your list. Depending on your water supply, you might want to add wetting agent.
 
Ilfosol 3 is designed for slow speed films so probably won't give great results with HP5. I'd get some ID-11 or Rodinal depending on how you'd like to develop (normally or stand).
 
Vinyl/latex gloves. I don't think B&W chemicals are *that* bad, but you may as well keep them off your skin. I got mine from Poundstretchers.

I use 500ml bottles that used to hold mineral water to store my diluted stop and fix for re-use. Don't tell the Health and Safety Executive. I did at least remove the labels.

A permanent marker to write "dev" "stop" "fix" on your jugs/bottles would be handy.

I started with HP5+ and Ilfosol3 and it's perfectly fine. I wouldn't worry about picking the "right" combination until you understand why it's right. (I hope to be in that enviable circumstance some time in the 2030s.) Having said that, if you think you might want to try (semi-)stand development (Ie, very diluted developer for a longer time) then just get Rodinal/R09 to start with.
 
Thanks for the replies everyone, it's been a great help! I've gone and ordered my list and hopefully it'll be here tomorrow or Saturday. After I've been doing it for a month or two I might make some changes to the developer and get a bigger tank.

So excited to start! :D

Paulmag said:
I have 2 film squeegees but never use them and run between my fingers ..feels safer to me Get a couple of old rolls of film to practice loading in the changing bag......its the one part you need to be able to do with your eyes shut

this is my developing kit I keep in a plastic bin and the chemicals in a smaller bin and I also use a builders bucket filled with water at 20deg C
It works fine for me B&W

The list you have above looks just fine

View attachment 23406

View attachment 23407

1.Kodak HC110 Developer
2.Tetenal Superfix plus Fixer
3.RA50 Rinse aid
4.Film changing bag
5.Paterson System 4 Developing tank
6.Thermometer
7.Film drying clips
8.Measuring beakers
9.Tray
10.Chemical storage bin
11.Used 120 film spools
Click to expand...

Thanks Paul, I'm glad I'm on the right track with my list! I might have to pop down to Wilkos or somewhere and get a small box to keep all the stuff in. I'll also try and find a couple of cheap rolls of film to practice with first.

trevorbray said:
Looks good. Probably a good idea to buy a tank that will hold 2 reels of 120 or larger.
I use Ilfosol 3 and haven't used anything else since I returned to film.

You're gonna love it..
Click to expand...

I think I will, I've loved shooting film so far and developing really appeals to me! Well, unless my first roll comes out blank then the whole lot might go in the bin haha

skysh4rk said:
​
The changing bag is only necessary if you don't have any place that you can make dark. I use our spare bathroom (which has no windows) for film developing and when I'm putting the film onto the reel, I just turn out the lights and place a towel at the bottom of the door.

As for developer, I can't comment on Ilfosol 3, although I'm sure that it's fine. I personally use Ilford LC29 for most of my developing, which seems to work well and it can be used in 1+29 dilutions to save a bit of money. I have recently started using Ilford DD-X for faster films and it seems to be pretty good, although it's a little bit more expensive to develop per roll than Ilford's other offerings (although still far cheaper than any lab).

I have a tank that only fits one reel of 120/220, but I just put two rolls of 120 on that single reel. This works well for the small volumes of B&W that I shoot, but I would agree that it could be worth considering getting something bigger if you planned to shoot lots of B&W film.
Click to expand...

I don't really have any rooms in the house that are anywhere near dark enough I don't think. When I finally move out and get a house with my girfriend I might paint a room black and brick up the window, but until then I think I'll have to stick with a changing bag.

I wasn't aware that you could put two rolls of 120 on a reel, but it makes sense if it can take a 220 roll! Is it just a case of feeding the start of the second roll on after the first finishes so it's almost like one continuous roll? At the moment I think a tank big enough for one 120 reel will be plenty big enough, and it'll stop me from spending all my money on film as well lol

StephenM said:
I'd suggest having at least two containers to hold the made up stop and fixer as you can reuse these. I don't know if Ilfosol is a one shot developer - if not, then you'll need a bottle to store this in as well. Containers for chemicals weren't on your list. Depending on your water supply, you might want to add wetting agent.
Click to expand...

Hmm I hadn't considered the water condition. I think my area has hard water as my parents use a Brita filter to fill the kettle up so it doesn't die after a month... I guess I could wash the rolls under regular tap water for the majority of the rinse and then pour filtered water over them at the end?

thorton said:
Ilfosol 3 is designed for slow speed films so probably won't give great results with HP5. I'd get some ID-11 or Rodinal depending on how you'd like to develop (normally or stand).
Click to expand...

I think I'm going to be mostly shooting FP4+ and only occasionally HP5. If I get on well with developing then would you say get a bottle of Rodinal for HP5 and Ilfosol 3 for FP4+?

abdoujaparov said:
Vinyl/latex gloves. I don't think B&W chemicals are *that* bad, but you may as well keep them off your skin. I got mine from Poundstretchers.

I use 500ml bottles that used to hold mineral water to store my diluted stop and fix for re-use. Don't tell the Health and Safety Executive. I did at least remove the labels.

A permanent marker to write "dev" "stop" "fix" on your jugs/bottles would be handy.

I started with HP5+ and Ilfosol3 and it's perfectly fine. I wouldn't worry about picking the "right" combination until you understand why it's right. (I hope to be in that enviable circumstance some time in the 2030s.) Having said that, if you think you might want to try (semi-)stand development (Ie, very diluted developer for a longer time) then just get Rodinal/R09 to start with.
Click to expand...

Ahh yes, gloves, I hadn't really thought of that. I'm sure my dad has some in the shed that I can pinch... I mean, borrow. I have loads of old 500ml swing top bottles in the shed that I can use (cider making is another hobby of mine). Is it an issue that they're clear glass or do they need to be opaque?
 
Don't bother with gloves, save your money. Unless you're really sloppy you won't get anything other than water on your hands.
 
For years I used to load tanks under the bedclothes at night without a problem. A changing bag was something I only acquired in the 1970s.

The main problem with hard water is the possibility of leaving a sediment if the drying isn't even - hence the wetting agent.

If you can rig it, drying the film at a slight angle so that the water drains down an edge away from the image area might help. AT least 35mm film has a wide margin with the sprocket holes.
 
robhooley167 said:
Don't bother with gloves, save your money. Unless you're really sloppy you won't get anything other than water on your hands.
Click to expand...
The one time I didn't wear gloves, I coated my index finger in Rodinal. It didn't drop off or anything, but for £2 I'll go with the gloves.
 
abdoujaparov said:
The one time I didn't wear gloves, I coated my index finger in Rodinal. It didn't drop off or anything, but .....
Click to expand...
I can't be the only person expecting a punchline :LOL:
 
humm.....I've got loads of kit I need to donate to good causes
 
Make sure beyond any doubt that you know your fix from your dev in the dark. Put the fix in a different shaped bottle or keep it under the bench at least.
 
Carl Hall said:
Thanks for the replies everyone, it's been a great help! I've gone and ordered my list and hopefully it'll be here tomorrow or Saturday.
Click to expand...

It was all going well until that point, but I kinda assumed you were going in to AG to get it. They are not famous for speedy delivery, so fingers crossed...
 
As advised on another recent thread - if you process and dry in the bathroom, do it after a bath. Kills dust dead. The collapsible storage bottles - not necessary if you want to scrimp by using re-used plastic fizzy bottles - but if you grow to like this game, the proper collapsible bottles do keep your stock chemicals well. Stopwatch - I use a Poundland job. There are some great apps around for developing - but I find that a smartphone + liquid = disaster. Rinsing water - I use an old budget (but of course clean) mop bucket. I fill it up to make 20C, and plunge my air tight stock bottles in it for a little while to all blend at 20C. I then use the water to rinse via a jug. This also gives free o2 a chance to release from the tap water.
Temp. Don't get too het up about it. 20C +/- one or two C is dead easy to achieve and keep. It is after all, near enough room temperature. My cold tap temperature throughout the year varies from 15 C to 23 C. Easily adjusted. I've even dared to process without a thermometer. I use an infra red surface thermometer from Maplins.

Shoot the dog or cat if you get hair on drying films.
 
On the rinse, I fill a 5 litre container with water at the correct temperature so that I don't have to bother getting the temperature right while washing. The 5 litre container is an empty from the purified water used for mixing the developer.

I have once (and as far as I know) once only suffered from reticulation. And before anyone asks how I got on at A&E, I mean the film. Reticulation is the crazy paving effect you can get from a rapid change in temperature. It's said that modern films are less prone. But reticulation can be sometimes (apparently) attributed to grain; just as flare can be attributed to a low contrast lens (only extreme flare being recognised as such). I developed my first film sometime around 1959, and my reticulated result was in 1967.

I haven't gone digital and use a Smith's timer. My water bath is a washing up bowl.
 
RumpFace said:
Make sure beyond any doubt that you know your fix from your dev in the dark. Put the fix in a different shaped bottle or keep it under the bench at least.
Click to expand...


why would he want to do it in the dark ?? why not make it easy and turn the light on ??
 
Carl Hall said:
I think I'm going to be mostly shooting FP4+ and only occasionally HP5. If I get on well with developing then would you say get a bottle of Rodinal for HP5 and Ilfosol 3 for FP4+?
Click to expand...

I'd possibly try a test roll with Ilfosol, if you're only shooting it occasionally it may suffice, depends what you think of the end result. I can't say I've personally developed HP5 in Ilfosol before, I'm just going off what the recommendations are from Ilford. If you were to get Rodinal I'd just get it for both tbh, it's the lazy mans way of developing :D

donut said:
why would he want to do it in the dark ?? why not make it easy and turn the light on ??
Click to expand...

Lol, this.
 
It worked! It actually worked!!

I was so sure I'd messed it all up at several points, but I actually have a developed film with photos on it! It's magic I say!

Here's one of my bottles of developer, stop and fixer warming up in the sink

View attachment 23503

And here's one of my dogs by the front door:

View attachment 23504

They're both clearly rubbish, but as I made them myself, that makes them awesome :D

Thanks so much to everyone that helped me. I'm going to have millions more questions for you all over the coming weeks haha.

Right, off to town to buy more film...
 
Well done Carl, it is a wonderful feeling when you open the tank and there are images on the reel. Carry on mate.

Andy
 
Carl Hall said:
It worked! It actually worked!!

.......
Click to expand...


Course it worked, this is F&C, we don't do fail

the worst you could possibly do is Hooley something.

to Hooley something is not to fail.....it is to gain experience..:)
 
happygolucky said:
I'd love to have a go at home dev, what do you have Joxby?
Click to expand...

Umm, well I've definately got 2 tanks complete with spirals blocking me cupboard up, and graduates coming out of my earoles, I'll have a look and list.
Can't do much till next week though, I'm packing tomorrow to leave Monday on a 5 day blue rinse bingo wing jamboree in Yarmouth.....oh what fun:hungover:
I will do it though, darkrooms a tiphole
 
joxby said:
Can't do much till next week though, I'm packing tomorrow to leave Monday on a 5 day blue rinse bingo wing jamboree in Yarmouth.....oh what fun:hungover:
I will do it though, darkrooms a tiphole
Click to expand...

Wild thing :D
 
Carl Hall said:
Hi guys,

I've finially decided to take the next step and develop my own black and white film. I just wanted to double check with you kind folk to make sure I'm buying the right equipment and chemicals :) I'll be buying them from AG Photographic this afternoon hopefully as I need to get started tomorrow or Saturday (taking my new camera to Wembley on Sunday for the NFL and I want to get some film through it beforehand to check it's all working!).

I've read a lot on this forum, and found the B&W film developing thread to be really useful. As far as I know, this is what I need:
  • Changing bag
  • Developing tank
  • Film reel(s)
  • 3 x measuring jugs
  • Thermometer
  • Film squeegee
  • Film clips
A Paterson film processing kit from http://www.ag-photographic.co.uk/paterson-film-processing-kit-2562-p.asp - I'm assuming these reels are the sort that can be used for 135 and 120??​
  • Developer
Ilford Ilfosil 3 from http://www.ag-photographic.co.uk/ilford-ilfosol-3-352-p.asp - I have read good things about this and it's recommended on the AG Photographic page, but if anyone thinks anything else would be better then I'd appreciate the tip!​
  • Stop
  • Fixer
  • Scissors
  • Can opener
Should be able to find these lying around the house


​
I'll be shooting FP4+ and HP5 in both 135 and 120.

If anyone notices anything that I'm missing or anything I've picked that's wrong, please let me know :) I'm really excited to start doing it myself!
Click to expand...

The obvious bit of kit here is timer although most smart phones have them now.

Also when rewinding a 35mm film back in the cassette you don't need to wind it all the way back in. Just enough to leave the tail out. You can then cut of the end straight and load it straight on to the real. This technique negates the need for an opener.
 
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