24-105 any thing I need to know

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rick
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I am going to be looking for a S/H canon 24-105 in the next week or so , is there any thing I should be looking out for. I did hear the earlier ones had focusing problems .

thanks in advance Rick
 
My friend has it and is getting rid due to the lack of low light ability. I think it's f4 at best? He is opting for the 24 to 70 f2.8

Gary.
 
As a walkabout lens, I would definately consider whether f4 is going to be wide enough.

Just a thought.

It's not the greatest low light lens you'll ever see but the IS is very good, so if the subject is static, it works a treat. Unless you want a very shallow DoF, then it doesn't. But it does have a great range and the min focusing distance is not bad.

It's a very tough lens to weigh up as it does nothing brilliantly but it does everything fairly well.
 
I think that what the OP meant was any known issues with the 24-105 that people should be looking out for that aren't normally traits of the lens (i.e. barrel distortion and only being f/4)

done a bit of reading and i don't think there is much to worry about (y)
 
cheers for the quick replys.
it will be used mainly for taking pics of koi for website so will be using a flash and polerizing filter. just sold my 28-70 which I was using for this and thought the IS would be of better use.
if it proves wrong I will be going back to either the 28-70 or 24-70 deepending whats about.
 
Got one very recently from a member on here and love it. For most work f4 is plenty adequate. IMHO too many wide aperture whores on forums. You can easily compensate the aperture with the IS facility and upping the ISO when required.
 
A truly brilliant lens. I use it more than 90% of the time. The IS feature means that the f/4 aperture is not an issue (modern DSLRs can cope with fairly to very high ISOs).
It is reasonably light to carry and very robust.
 
The zoom spacing is linear per mm of length rather than logarithmic as on just about every other lens. So loads of twisting from 80-105, with not that much change in view, but almost nothing between 24 and 50.

As said the IS is great, and pretty silent too.
 
For most work f4 is plenty adequate. IMHO too many wide aperture whores on forums. You can easily compensate the aperture with the IS facility and upping the ISO when required.

Is it? Are there? Can you?

Maybe in your world, but in mine, light levels change and sometimes we need to capture movement and not just record pretty-looking blurs...

Maybe you should re-phrase that unless you'd like myself and others to take exception to that remark.

Since upping the ISO increases noise, maybe we just don't want to...

Which is why manufacturers give us the choice.
 
Looking forward to seeing how you get on with this lens Rick - its one I have in mind for the same purpose, not sure it will be better than the 24-70 though but its the IS that is the bonus
 
...Maybe in your world, but in mine, light levels change and sometimes we need to capture movement and not just record pretty-looking blurs...

I'm with you on this, sensor size is also a factor in determining required f-stop.
 
Looking forward to seeing how you get on with this lens Rick - its one I have in mind for the same purpose, not sure it will be better than the 24-70 though but its the IS that is the bonus

hope to have one for the weekend so I will compare it against my 28-70 and see what the out come is. then one will have to go :eek:
 
Take some pics of a brick wall at various distances, focal lengths and apertures (breeze block wall will do). I did that with one and discovered some very curved effects on the bricks :puke:
Was a very nice length to have but for what I want the 24-70 beat it all the time because of the f/2.8
 
The very first examples were very susceptible to flare but were offered to be corrected by Canon free of charge so that should not be a problem. Other than that there is nothing to worry about.

The 24-70 f2.8 and the 24-105 f4 both have excellent image quality. Neither is better than the other but they are quite different. I opted for the 24-105 but either lens is an excellent choice. Beware that the 24-70 is considerably larger and heavier.
 
Take some pics of a brick wall at various distances, focal lengths and apertures (breeze block wall will do). I did that with one and discovered some very curved effects on the bricks :puke:

It's the same with the horizon. If you're doing a lot of seascapes you will soon notice this sort of thing, especially in the 24 - 35 mm region. You can correct it in software but then you need to crop the image.
 
this is all I will be using mine for. range is normally between 35-70 deepending on the size of the koi. and will be with flash. as I am tracking the koi as it moves this was the reason for trying IS.

IMG_0103.jpg
 
It has purple fringing wide open especially at 24mm.
I used to own 2 copies, both the same.
 
this is all I will be using mine for. range is normally between 35-70 deepending on the size of the koi. and will be with flash. as I am tracking the koi as it moves this was the reason for trying IS.

IMG_0103.jpg

IS is designed for static subjects and should be turned off for moving subjects. some lenses like the 70-200 have 2 types of IS with type 2 allowing use when horizontal tracking.
 
just picked up a mint 2 year old copy , taken a few pics and they seem very sharp and vibrant. will do some comparision shots over the weekend and post to get some feed back.

Thanks for all your help so far :clap:
 
might not be the most scientific of tests but for what I wanted the lens for it will do.
sample shots with both the 28-70 and 24-105.
I think the 24-105 is slightly sharper and it did auto focus a bit quicker

any thoughts?

24-105.jpg


28-70.jpg
 
IIRC the IS in the 24..105 F4L automatically detects panning on either plane, unlike the 70..200's.
 
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