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not sure if its the right place to put this but i am after some help/feedback.

i really love my golf course photography but struggle to get nice crisp pictures, there are always shaddows, bright sun light, low sun light etc that just provide a stumbling block for me and then when i get home to get a picture half decent it needs editing so much it goes grainy.

here is one below that is as it was straight out the camera no messing. the colour of the sky and sharpness of the image is just lost and it bugs me. i have an eos 60d and 24-105 L lens so i have no one excuse. Any help will be much appreciated.View attachment 27109
 
It looks like it was taken early morning. It has that slightly hazy look. Coused be the angle of the sun and moistuer in the air. Witch has made the main subject low contrast. Try upping it in PP
 
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it was about 45mins before sunset, same sort of problem as early mornings?
 
It's no different to any landscape - you need to think about how and where the light is falling and where to position yourself to take advantage of it. Sunset and sunrise can both give beautiful light, but it's hard to cope with the dynamic range if there are features like the wooded higher ground in your image giving large areas of deep shadows. Your sky is also completely white and featureless, probably a result of trying to get detail out of the shadow areas, aiming too close to where the sun was or both. If it's a course you have regular access to, walk around at different times of day and look at how it is lit. The middle of the day can give good light too ( and fewer problems with shadow areas) if you have a clear sky and shoot away from the sun, so you get the effect of deep blue sky against smooth green grass, or there are little fluffy clouds that you can give extra punch too in processing, or a dramatic, stormy sky, but never flat grey overcast. Shooting at the optimum aperture for your lens for maximum depth of field and sharpness and using a tripod will all help counter the softness issue, if you're not already doing that.
 
Like Jannyfox said think about the light, to me the interesting bit is the light falling on the trees on the left side and the reflections in the water
As you have got image editing turned on I have had a little play.
Boosted contrast,taken out some of the extraneous bits, sharpened and cropped out quite a lot of the RHS .

p786660232-4.jpg
 
i think one of my biggest stumbling blocks is that the holes decide where i shoot from. Would using a ND graduated filter help me out in situations where the sun was just too bright/low to shoot into?
 
?are you paying any attention to the histogram when you take your pictures?

The general starting point is to 'Expose to the right' (ETTR) ie have the histogram going as far to the right as possible without 'clipping'.

Clipping is easy to see if you set the LCD display on the back of your camera to show the histogram as clipped areas will be shaded (?) red.

Avoiding solid blacks is also 'good' but less important than avoiding clipping of highlights as the electronic data at the 'white end' potentially has more info in it than at the black end.

Having avoided clipping then if you have a good range ie there is a vertical line at all points in between then you have a good range of info/colours/tones that will /should give you a better starting point.

Sorry if you know all this stuff already but I went to a photography class for a year where none of this was mentioned:(.

And just to help avoid contrary people having a go - none of this stuff above is an infallible 'rule' that you must follow at all costs - it is just a starting point to help you get over the problem you are currently facing.

And for the same reason I should mention that the histogram on the LCD relates to the JPEG image not the raw one so it is only an indicator anyway.

(This is stuff that I have picked up as I have gone along and can't readily point you to an authoritative source.)
 
thanks chris, no i have never used the histogram, but funny enough i have been looking on youtube and reading up this morning about it. what you have said has made what i have just read clearer! thank you for your help
 
Glad to be of help -but if you are like me then even though you know about it you will still forget to check and then when you get home and look at it on the PC/Mac you find that the histogram finishes about half way across - and then you end up with lots of noise or certainly poorer images than you thought.
 
i have never used histograms before so i have learnt something. had a play last night and was surprised how relatively simple it was to get on with.
 
i have never used histograms before so i have learnt something. had a play last night and was surprised how relatively simple it was to get on with.

Yes it is - one thing you may need to get used to is:

Be guided by the histogram - NOT what the LCD image looks like​

The LCD image may look over-exposed but when it comes to processing you will have a better starting point. Of course you still need to take a well composed image etc but at least you are giving yourself the best chance of ending up with something worthwhile:)
 
Do you shoot in RAW? If you don't, then it might be worth a try because you can change the White Balance as you wish. That may help some of your issues.
 
not sure if its the right place to put this but i am after some help/feedback.

i really love my golf course photography but struggle to get nice crisp pictures, there are always shaddows, bright sun light, low sun light etc that just provide a stumbling block for me and then when i get home to get a picture half decent it needs editing so much it goes grainy.

here is one below that is as it was straight out the camera no messing. the colour of the sky and sharpness of the image is just lost and it bugs me. i have an eos 60d and 24-105 L lens so i have no one excuse. Any help will be much appreciated.View attachment 27109


At least you've learned one of the most important lessons early: You can't edit a crap image into a good image. Photography is not about editing, it's about... get this... you sitting down?... it's about photography! :)

The biggest issue with that shot is the light. Almost all of the visible golf course in that shot is in shadow, yet all the sky has hazy cloud being lit by direct sunlight. In short, it's contrasty lighting. No camera copes with such lighting well as the differences between light and dark are pronounced. You just need to be shooting at a different time of day. Re-visit the same place at different times of day, and in different weather types. Great landscapes need great lighting. How you define great is up to you, as there's no one measure of such things, but harsh, contrasty sunlight combined with shadows isn't it, trust me. With the shot you posted, if that was before sunset, then try again at sunrise, so the sun actually falls on the golf course instead of putting it into shadow. Just try all different times of day.

Don't under estimate a cloudy day. People always assume that the sun must be shining in photographs. Why is this? They look out of the window, see a grey sky, and just don't bother shooting. For me a grey sky is a fabulous time to shoot. Lovely diffused light, low contrast etc. I love it.. there are gaps at each end of the histogram you can drive a bus through, which means you've captured everything with no compromise. Sometimes a nice overcast day can make certain subjects look beautiful too,

dAMj2wk.jpg


Like Jannyfox said think about the light, to me the interesting bit is the light falling on the trees on the left side and the reflections in the water
As you have got image editing turned on I have had a little play.
Boosted contrast,taken out some of the extraneous bits, sharpened and cropped out quite a lot of the RHS .

p786660232-4.jpg

You've achieved nothing. The answer is NOT editing. The image has poor lighting. Why even bother messing with it? It's encouraging beginners to assume that the enswer is editing. It's not.


i think one of my biggest stumbling blocks is that the holes decide where i shoot from. Would using a ND graduated filter help me out in situations where the sun was just too bright/low to shoot into?

Possibly. It will certainly help the bright sky issue, but it brings it own issues, such as overlapping into the ground and darkening hills etc. You could use a tripod and cable release, and take a set of bracketed exposures too, then blend them, but really.... these are all very complicated solutions when the answer is simple. Just shoot in different light.
 
thanks david, very helpful advice. will try again unfortunately it wont be at this track, not for quite some time anyway!
 
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