Canon 7D mk2 owners thread.

Thanks Gaz J, I've not wanted to risk it but that makes me feel better. What about a mix, as I have 1 genuine LP-E6 and 1 genuine LP-E6n?
 
The N batteries deliver 1865mw as opposed to the 1800mw of the non N yet the new ones are almost double the price, it seems battery sales are an important part of Canons market.
FWIW.....The change from LP-E6 to E6N (and LP-E4 to 4N) is due to new regulations for battery safety by the Japanese Government.

Bob
 
I don't use a grip but have three genuine batteries: Two LP-E6N and one LP-E6 which was my spare when I had a 70D. I use the latest Canon charger as supplied with my 7D2.

I find that the LP-E6N lasts significantly/noticeably longer than the LP-E6.
 
I've got two LP-E6 and two LP-E6N and I've just been mixing and matching as they have run down. Not noticed any problems but not checked if the LP-E6s show 100%. On page 521 of the manual it says that both LP-E6 & LP-E6N batteries are compatible with the LC-E6E charger and also the LC-E6 charger which is the original charger from the 7D MkI and 5D3
 
About 30% less shots per battery compared with the 5D3 with same battery.
 
About 30% less shots per battery compared with the 5D3 with same battery.

....The 7D2's double processor cards plus a more sophisticated autofocus system may be a contributing factor. More power always consumes more juice.
 
That's a big reduction though. Battery usage is the most disappointing aspect of the whole camera for me.

Over 1100 from the bigger battery of the 1DX so maybe a little flaw in the overall design of the MkII
 
I thought refresh was for Nicads not NiMH ?
.
Sorry, missed your post, well both the 7D2 and 1 Dx are Li-ion, the 1Dx has the refresh facility, the 7D2 doesn't (on the charger) and even if you run a 7D battery right down, it doesn't seem to reset the battery condition indicator whereas the 1 Dx does (in the charger)...but it takes a while!!
 
Just done a few calculations, as follows:-

LPE6 capacity..12.96 Watt Hours (5D mk3 and 7D)
LPE6N............13.43 WH (7D mk2)

LPE4...............25,5 WH (1Ds3 and 1D4)
LPE4N.............27.2 WH (1Dx)

so the 7D mks 1 and 2 and the 5D3 have approx half the total battery capacity of the 1D4 and 1Dx bodies, so in theory if the body power consumptions are the same for all bodies (which of course they won't be but there shouldn't be a huge difference, I suppose) the battery/shot capacity of a gripped 5/7 D will be similar to an equivalent vintage 1 series........but going by personal experience I'd say the 7D2 gripped will not give me as many shots as the 1 Dx, not sure why as I'd have thought the processing power requirements are roughly equal.
Perhaps the fact that Bob brought up regarding AF speed with super tellys means that there is some circuitry making the usage disproportionately higher in the 7D2?
 
Just checked my LP-E6 batteries and all showing 100% charge in the camera.

Anyway we've got what we've got so its either more genuine Canon batteries or third party ones and see if they work or, which is what I will be doing, AA rechargeables in the spare tray. I've got 12 Eneloops and 4 batteries so if I run out of juice with that lot I will have had a good day.
 
Sorry, missed your post, well both the 7D2 and 1 Dx are Li-ion, the 1Dx has the refresh facility, the 7D2 doesn't (on the charger) and even if you run a 7D battery right down, it doesn't seem to reset the battery condition indicator whereas the 1 Dx does (in the charger)...but it takes a while!!

I thought I was right so I had a dig.

Here

LI-Ion batteries can't be refreshed by a deep discharge and in fact can be killed doing it.

The only thing the deep discharge does do is work out the current life of the battery v the estimated when new life.
 
Well I never thought I would learn so much about batteries! Thanks for the link, Martin :)

Quoting a point from the link on how to take care of Li-ion batteries:

" Don't constantly discharge completely. This will surely reduce the life-cycle. "

So I interpret that to mean that it is advised to change your camera battery around the time it displays a single bar of remaining energy.
 
Interesting info, Martin, thanks, and I found an article which goes in to the "discharge" info as well, which probably explains what happens in the 1 series chargers...

Unlike NiCad batteries, lithium-ion batteries do not have a charge memory. That means deep-discharge cycles are not required. In fact, it's better for the battery to use partial-discharge cycles.

There is one exception. Battery experts suggest that after 30 charges, you should allow lithium-ion batteries to almost completely discharge. Continuous partial discharges create a condition called digital memory, decreasing the accuracy of the device's power gauge. So let the battery discharge to the cut-off point and then recharge. The power gauge will be recalibrated.


...which explains it well.

So that's been an interesting discussion, I've certainly learnt something!!
 
As a wildlife photographer (amateur) I am finding that ISO 1000 delivers very little noise on the 7D2. I generally need to aim for high shutter speeds and as close to F/8 as I can when using my Canon 400mm F/5.6L which doesn't have image stabilisation.

Yesterday I decided to try out using my Canon 1.4x III extender on my 400mm F/5.6L on 7D2 for the first time and it was helpful having autofocus (my 70D didn't on this combo) when a Buzzard unexpectedly appeared overhead. Autofocus was definitely slower on this combo and I later discovered that only AF areas up to 5 pt were selectable. I'm fairly pleased with the results after post-processing but I won't bother mounting my 1.4x unless on a tripod or monopod. I was literally about to attach my monopod when it all kicked off above me.





^ I'm not so keen on the image quality on the second shot but quite like the action I captured. More info on Flickr for both images.
 
Im quite happy with the camera ,the more I use it the better it feels ,just a shame we have such short days .
Rob.
 
Robin the first image looks like heavy crop ?? ... as I can see the shadow is over processed...

....Really? What makes you think the shadows are over processed, please? Or are you referring to the second image of the Buzzard with Crows? @GyRob

The cropped image posted of the Buzzard flying alone is about 30% of the area of the original shot - Not that heavy for many wildlife shots on a 400mm lens (although the extender made it 560mm).
 
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A very valid opinion about the 7D2 and the importance of simply exposing correctly re noise. Also the rumoured mirrorless FF body from Canon.

From ~32:00 in....


^ That Christina girl is quirky - Her facial expressions say a lot!
 
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A very valid opinion about the 7D2 and the importance of simply exposing correctly re noise. Also the rumoured mirrorless FF body from Canon.

From ~32:00 in....


^ That Christina girl is quirky - Her facial expressions say a lot!

I didn't even manage 10sec of that Robin :LOL: ETTR is not just a 7D thing but yes getting the correct exposure is important.
 
I didn't even manage 10sec of that Robin :LOL: ETTR is not just a 7D thing but yes getting the correct exposure is important.

Have you bit the bullet yet Neil or do you still have your 5D3
 
Hmmmm. Expose "properly"? They also say multiple times "good exposure." What they are saying is to expose so that the shadows don't need lifting and that's a valid thing to do but you stand the chance of blowing your highlights to #ell. They also say... don't take the shot if it has shaddows :D
 
Not seen a lot of images taken with the 7D MkII that are close to what I bought it for.

Heres a link to a friend of mine that has been doing a bit with it.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/jacobite1746/

....Your friend's images are drop-dead gorgeous and all have fabulous lighting. Pity he doesn't share his camera info though :(
 
....Your friend's images are drop-dead gorgeous and all have fabulous lighting. Pity he doesn't share his camera info though :(

Agreed, he's been busy if these are all 7D2 shots......as Robin said, be interesting to know lens, crop, exposure etc.
 
Its only the first dozen or so that are with the MkII. Lens was a 300 f2.8 MkII with/without converters.
 
Its only the first dozen or so that are with the MkII. Lens was a 300 f2.8 MkII with/without converters.

....and that lens combo is the bee's knees......
 
I really hope what I've heard about the new 100-400 (ie that it's as sharp as the 70-200 2.8 mk2) is true, came from Frankie Jim.....nice for the price (esp when it settles!!!...)
 
Just been looking at your shots, Robin, the mk 3 extenders really come in to their own with the mk2 lenses, just wait till you try it out on the latest ones, the IQ and AF speed are hardly affected at all...(I'd say you can't see the difference but I know in theory this isn't true, and someone will disagree with me!!!) and then the af of the 7D2 will really show how good it is....it's best feature!!
 
Robin on smaller thumbnail it looked ok but looking at larger canvas at your flickr does show the colour noise in shadow area... :)

....Really? What makes you think the shadows are over processed, please? Or are you referring to the second image of the Buzzard with Crows? @GyRob

The cropped image posted of the Buzzard flying alone is about 30% of the area of the original shot - Not that heavy for many wildlife shots on a 400mm lens (although the extender made it 560mm).
 
Just been looking at your shots, Robin, the mk 3 extenders really come in to their own with the mk2 lenses, just wait till you try it out on the latest ones, the IQ and AF speed are hardly affected at all...(I'd say you can't see the difference but I know in theory this isn't true, and someone will disagree with me!!!) and then the af of the 7D2 will really show how good it is....it's best feature!!

....That's good to know, George :). My Canon 300mm F/4L IS and 400mm F/5.6L are both 'mk1' lenses, hence their limitations with my mk3 extender. I guess that my Canon 70-200mm F/4L IS must be a mk2 lens because my extender works well on it. I must try it some more on my 7D2.

I really hope what I've heard about the new 100-400 (ie that it's as sharp as the 70-200 2.8 mk2) is true, came from Frankie Jim.....nice for the price (esp when it settles!!!...)

....Me too!!!
 
Robin on smaller thumbnail it looked ok but looking at larger canvas at your flickr does show the colour noise in shadow area... :)

....Thanks for explaining that to me :)

I rarely apply any noise reduction to a bird or other wildlife and after any post-processing in Aperture I edit in Photoshop CS6 where I select the subject (bird etc), invert the selection and then apply a third-party noise reduction filter (Imageonic) to the background only before Smart Sharpening as the last step. This is because I don't like the look of over smoothed feathers/fur etc because I think it looks unrealistic.

I'm very grateful for your advice on this but am afraid that I am happy with this particular image in the circumstances and it's not for the bin yet. I wish I could see the "colour noise" you are referring to. I have viewed the image on my 27" Mac display.
 
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