Fuji X-E1/X-E2/X-E2S/X-E3 Owners Thread

kennysarmy said:
Not sure what you gain by leaving the apps at their default values though... Surely to compare you need to try and get the best out of each programme for a proper comparison.... No?
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OK I've got the wrong end of the stick then. I was under the impression that opening RAF files in PN would suddenly render everything better :) I'll have a play in LR to see what I can come up with.
 
manualfocus-g said:
OK here's a stab in LR (low quality output to meet the 150k file size limit):
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that look good to me.
PN is known to show finer detail than most when working wth fuji files. However it does not yet support recovery of highlights with fuji x files nor does it support any of the lens correction data such as barrel distortion, ca, or vignetting. Which LR does automatically from the raf file.
On balance I much prefer the look of the LR output when properly processed.


RAF files with their spaced out colour pattern will always show slightly less colour detail . However the tonal detail is slightly better.with the result that the images are amongst the best, except for pixel peepers who try to look at the image construction.

Human eyes also have greater actuance for tonal detail than they do for colour detail, so fuji produces a good match to what we think we see in real life.
 
I have a question about the focus frame on E2, is it square or rectangle ? The display on the LCD display, when in 'Info Display' mode shows a rectangle, yet the one in liveview on the LCD and viewfinder is a square ! trying out the focus frame while trying to focus on a close subject would suggest it is indeed a rectangle, as the lower 25% and upper 25% portion of the frame causes incorrect focus ! 25% portion on the left and right has correct focus as expected

EDIT. Just realised the focus select on the info display isn't symmetric hence the rectangle ! and the focus was to do with no vertical transitions in the upper and lower portion I was trying to focus on !
 
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leeboy22001 said:
I have a question about the focus frame on E2, is it square or rectangle ? The display on the LCD display, when in 'Info Display' mode shows a rectangle, yet the one in liveview on the LCD and viewfinder is a square ! trying out the focus frame while trying to focus on a close subject would suggest it is indeed a rectangle, as the lower 25% and upper 25% portion of the frame causes incorrect focus ! 25% portion on the left and right has correct focus as expected
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I do not have an E2, but can you not change the size of the focus square as you can on all the other x cameras.
this allows you to be more precise in close up, or when working with small objects.
 
Yeah, I'm able to change the focus frame size :), I've just been finding the focus can be a bit hit and miss when focusing on a subject 10 metres away or so, say a face at a distance, it'll focus on the background for some reason ? so have to reduce the windows as small as I can to help it focus on the person !?
 
leeboy22001 said:
Yeah, I'm able to change the focus frame size :), I've just been finding the focus can be a bit hit and miss when focusing on a subject 10 metres away or so, say a face at a distance, it'll focus on the background for some reason ? so have to reduce the windows as small as I can to help it focus on the person !?
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It should focus on what you have it centered on when you half press the shutter.
unless you have set focus lock or are in manual. When it will stay at what ever you have pre set.
 
Reading the manual (for the first time), suggests reasons for focus failure, such as the background in the focus frame having more contrast than the subject you want to focus on, even if subject is in the centre of the focus frame, I always assumed it'll focus on the centre of the focus frame if possible, i guess not ! hence why reducing focus frame to cover only the subject you want in focus helps !
 
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simonblue said:
Will stick to J-peg,more than happy :D
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I am big headed enough to believe that I can always make better choices than a machine, so I work raw.
I almost always make other tonal changes to parts of the image so I like the extra head room.
 
does altering the dynamic range setting have any effect if you shoot raw? Looking at the DPreview review of the XE-2 it looks like a DR of 200% seems the best setting to stick with, but if raw mode ignores it then i wont worry :)
 
Terrywoodenpic said:
I am big headed enough to believe that I can always make better choices than a machine, so I work raw.
I almost always make other tonal changes to parts of the image so I like the extra head room.
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Thats the good thing about Fuji great J-pegs,but if you want to have a play around with raw,best of both worlds :)
 
essexash said:
does altering the dynamic range setting have any effect if you shoot raw? Looking at the DPreview review of the XE-2 it looks like a DR of 200% seems the best setting to stick with, but if raw mode ignores it then i wont worry :)
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That is a does and does not question and answer.

The DR setting does change the exposure setting/iso that the camera chooses... (that is independent of raw or Jpeg)

The Jpeg engine takes the fact that you used a DR setting into account when it creates the Jpeg.
However the Raw file does not shift the result in the same way... However, however, as the exposure was changed from what it would have been with out setting DR, you will now find you need to adjust the raw converter sliders for that setting, but you will have greater head room recovery in which to do so. ( so you might as well set DR)

(Setting High DR in shots with predominantly dark tones is likely to increase noise in those tones. That is the pay back for using all that dynamic range)

If you use lightroom/Photoshop CC, all the "film types" are available to you in the raw converter, what ever you have or have not set in camera.
And like for Jpegs the lens parameters are set by default for distortions in raw. (this is not true of all Raw processors)
 
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Just bought an eos to x mount adapter off ebay, and loving it ! I've got a few lenses such as the canon 85mm 1.8 and a tamron macro lens that work brilliantly :), yes you has manual focus, but is easy to use through the viewfinder :) very happy !

Also with the E2 being a good size it doesn't look too small with lenses on either ! :)
 
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Just thought I'd share that I've been playing around with the jpeg settings quite a lot recently. I've actually now settled on 5 different customer settings in the XE2 that seem to work pretty well. Need to do some more shooting, but so far so good. This means I should be able to cover most of the styles and looks I want without the need for much editing at all. This is something I'd never been happy with on other systems, but with the Fuji, the results are really very good.
Loving the Fuji X system!
I've gone with

C1 - general purpose
C2 - Vibrant
C3 - B&W
C4 - Soft and open
C5 - Desaturated and crunchy
 
danwoodward100 said:
Just thought I'd share that I've been playing around with the jpeg settings quite a lot recently. I've actually now settled on 5 different customer settings in the XE2 that seem to work pretty well. Need to do some more shooting, but so far so good. This means I should be able to cover most of the styles and looks I want without the need for much editing at all. This is something I'd never been happy with on other systems, but with the Fuji, the results are really very good.
Loving the Fuji X system!
I've gone with

C1 - general purpose
C2 - Vibrant
C3 - B&W
C4 - Soft and open
C5 - Desaturated and crunchy
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Be careful if you upgrade your body firmware as you may lose all your custom settings.... I speak from experience!!
 
Spotted a friendly Robin today, taken with my free 50-230 lens :)

2014_0927_13321500.jpg

2014_0927_13324200.jpg
 
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I have a detailed question for those who are primarily using Jpegs,
I'm suing an X-E1 and for certain situations (backlit etc) I hit Drive and select DR-bracket (or ISO-bracket) which gives me three Jpegs with different characteristics from which I can later select my favourite or do some blending.
Ideally I would like a burst of two or more frames, each utilising the DR- or ISO- bracketting ... but Burst is on the same Drive option list so on this camera I cannot have both.
Anyone try the X-E2, X-Pro or X-T and see if they can make it do what I want it to do?
 
Have had a play with the high performance mode, which in the manual says it speeds up AF which it does :), and speeds up power up, but I do find it eats batteries for breakfast which is a real shame :-(. I get around 50 photo's at mo, which isn't great, and is ashame as it deters you from using this enhanced mode :-(. This was using OIS too, which doesn't help. How many shots do other people get with there E2 in high performance mode ?
 
leeboy22001 said:
Have had a play with the high performance mode, which in the manual says it speeds up AF which it does :), and speeds up power up, but I do find it eats batteries for breakfast which is a real shame :-(. I get around 50 photo's at mo, which isn't great, and is ashame as it deters you from using this enhanced mode :-(. This was using OIS too, which doesn't help. How many shots do other people get with there E2 in high performance mode ?
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With mine getting about 150 shots in high performance mode.
 
simonblue said:
With mine getting about 150 shots in high performance mode.
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How many are you getting on the XT Simon.?

I used my XT with the 18-55mm on Friday gone and when I loaded pics onto computer, I had taken 337 shots and battery still showing 80% full, the XT battery then drops off quick from experience. I had OIS on and High Performance mode, you would think the the cameras would have similiar battery life. Also, I am getting the about the same from my Xpro battery.

50 shots from Lee seems very poor, and youre 150 is not great either, youre in Sigma Merrill range with those number of shots.
 
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Taken the plunge. Ordered a clearance X-E1 in black and a used M- 35mm from Ffordes. Been using a film camera for "out and about" images and really enjoyed it over my D7000. Picking up the D7000 felt weird after it so it's going as I don't use it since I got my D700 for wildlife.
 
Swanseajack said:
How many are you getting on the XT Simon.?

I used my XT with the 18-55mm on Friday gone and when I loaded pics onto computer, I had taken 337 shots and battery still showing 80% full, the XT battery then drops off quick from experience. I had OIS on and High Performance mode, you would think the the cameras would have similiar battery life. Also, I am getting the about the same from my Xpro battery.

50 shots from Lee seems very poor, and youre 150 is not great either, youre in Sigma Merrill range with those number of shots.
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Yeah, Im getting 400+ with HP mode and my X-T1.
 
twist said:
I do the same thing. Doesn't effect it, if anything should make it last longer as camera isn't drawing power.
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:plus1: When shooting on friday gone, I would walk a little then sit on bench and switch camera on/off inbetween shots, done this about 7 times (sitting on different benches, slow walker due to disabilities) and still getting the performance mentioned above of myself and other members. It seems as if you and Simon may have faulty batteries. Order an Xpro battery as a spare and see how you get on. Order from Xpro themselves and not Amazon as it's cheaper. Linky > http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/offer-listing/B007VPL61Y/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new
 
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Only other thing that could possibly cause poor battery life, is that your using the flash on the XE, but 50 shots even with flash is poor, I haven't taken mine out of the box for the XT. When I had my XE1, using that was giving similiar performance to what I'm getting now from the batteries.
 
Swanseajack said:
How many are you getting on the XT Simon.?

I used my XT with the 18-55mm on Friday gone and when I loaded pics onto computer, I had taken 337 shots and battery still showing 80% full, the XT battery then drops off quick from experience. I had OIS on and High Performance mode, you would think the the cameras would have similiar battery life. Also, I am getting the about the same from my Xpro battery.

50 shots from Lee seems very poor, and youre 150 is not great either, youre in Sigma Merrill range with those number of shots.
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I do have a habit of not switching my cameras off which can drain them quicker,the best i get when i do is about 350 on both :)
 
So, I took the plunge and my X-E2 arrived from e
Bay with the 2.8-4 kit lens. Sniped it for £600 body and lens, it's in pristine condition not a mark on it, still got ages left in UK warranty too.

Anyway I have hit my first hurdle with the X-Trans sensor, this has never been an issue in my X100.

RAW files! They look horrid in Lightroom compared to Iridient, but that software has terrible workflow - is there a happy medium?

FAdnIfc.png

GEeOqqJ.png
 
dd1989 said:
So, I took the plunge and my X-E2 arrived from e
Bay with the 2.8-4 kit lens. Sniped it for £600 body and lens, it's in pristine condition not a mark on it, still got ages left in UK warranty too.

Anyway I have hit my first hurdle with the X-Trans sensor, this has never been an issue in my X100.

RAW files! They look horrid in Lightroom compared to Iridient, but that software has terrible workflow - is there a happy medium?

FAdnIfc.png

GEeOqqJ.png
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Terrible or just not what you are used to?
I have up with adobe and am now using photo ninja...it's a different workflow....but wouldn't say terrible...
 
Looks like Iridient is showing the image with greater saturation, vibrancy and contrast by default. How do the histograms compare for these same image pairs?
 
I've been giving the X-E2 a bit more of an outing to see how it compares to the X-Pro1. I definitely prefer the feel of the X-Pro1 in the hand - it just sits better and the controls seems better laid out (particularly the Q button) - but the X-E2 seems better balanced on a tripod, even if the 23mm looks too large for the smaller body (more obvious as I have a Gariz half-case on the X-Pro1 that bulks it up further).

Results are equally good with both cameras..

 
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