Fuji X-E1/X-E2/X-E2S/X-E3 Owners Thread

I also have a couple of Leica M adapters for which I use a Voigtlander 35mm f/1.4 and 50mm f/1.5 Nokton. The focus peaking on the X-E2 makes using them a much better option than the Fuji 35mm in low light and/or with a moving subject.
 
ive only got the 23 and its such a good lens i just cant justify spending all the wonga on a 35 just for a 12mm difference. Id rather walk forward 10 feet and save a few hundred quid :) Same the other way at the wider option.
 
My 50mm 1.8 Zuiko with the cheap £10 adaptor works well with focus peaking.
 
Here's one of the first shots I've taken with the X-E1 and 23mm. Raw conversion in camera with Velvia sim added. Decided I didn't need any processing at all on it as it's pretty much bang on, I can see my editing times going down from now on!

Love love love!
Cold Drive Home by M+M Morrison, on Flickr
Gotta love that Fuji colour
 
Love the Gruffalo shot. For a cheap zoom it's mighty impressive.

Thank you. I'm really chuffed with the 50-230mm. It's extremely sharp even wide open (just looks a bit odd when fully extended!).

I forgot to mention, all images were processed with RNI film presets.
 
The 50-230 is very good especially for the price that it can be picked up, get some nice blurry backgrounds as well.

Was walking past a red carpet in London last summer and snapped Ralf Little, the little X-E1 with 50-230 was a bit out of place alongside all the 'professional shooters', but I'm happy with the result. Shot at 230mm


Ralf Little sm
by Mr Perceptive X100, on Flickr
 
Got a cheapish filter for my camera - Tiffen ND 3.0 (gives 10 stop) - never used an ND before so if i get good results I might look at a better quality one. Any one got any specific Fuji tips for ND photography?
 

X-E2, Rolleinar MC 28/2.8
 
So i was out today shooting my son in the snow with the xe2 and 56mm and there is a lot of shots overexposed. I couldn't see the screen very well as it was so bright and was wondering if the highlight warning or blinkies is a good idea to combat this.

I haven't used anything like this before and was wondering who uses it and where in the menu it is located.

When the shots where correctly exposed they look very nice. Impressed.
 
So i was out today shooting my son in the snow with the xe2 and 56mm and there is a lot of shots overexposed. I couldn't see the screen very well as it was so bright and was wondering if the highlight warning or blinkies is a good idea to combat this.

I haven't used anything like this before and was wondering who uses it and where in the menu it is located.

When the shots where correctly exposed they look very nice. Impressed.
Are you sure you hadn't dialled in some +ve exposure compensation?

I'd expect a white scene to cause under exposure....
 
Are you sure you hadn't dialled in some +ve exposure compensation?

I'd expect a white scene to cause under exposure....

Hi Jeff,

I had dialled in exposure compensation but because i was struggling to see the screen i couldn't tell whether 1 stop was enough so ended up moving between that and 2 stops and unfortunately the 2 stops was too much and i've overexposed about half of my shots. I thought if maybe the blinkies that i saw when playing back the shots in the house could be enabled during shooting it would be a great help.

Regards

Scott
 
Yes but it would slow the shooting down no end if I had to review all my photos when I took them.

If you can't have it enabled when shooting then I may be better enabling the histogram as I'm sure that's an option.

To take a photo then review it although only a few seconds more means me not having my eye on my son which in some of the places we visit could be lethal. Lochs and 3 year olds are not a good mix.
 
Yes but it would slow the shooting down no end if I had to review all my photos when I took them.

If you can't have it enabled when shooting then I may be better enabling the histogram as I'm sure that's an option.

To take a photo then review it although only a few seconds more means me not having my eye on my son which in some of the places we visit could be lethal. Lochs and 3 year olds are not a good mix.

Surely once you've got the appoximate exposure compensation dialled in you can adjust in post by more minor amounts if you shoot RAW?

I don't believe there is a way to have live blinkies....but you could have your camera setup to show the image immediately after capture with the blinkies, then you would n't have to manually "play" each image...it would just appear...
 
Well I got out for a short blast last night, my first try with the Fuji at my old favourite long exposures at night, some of you may have come across my long running Light-painting Evolving thread (http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/threads/my-light-painting-evolving.392184/)

Basically I use the long exposure to give a near daylight look, with a wee blast of LED light from my Lenser P7 to highlight the main focal point, being the house here.

It's great fun :D
Barvas Moor-House - 5 | 52 by M+M Morrison, on Flickr
 
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Surely once you've got the appoximate exposure compensation dialled in you can adjust in post by more minor amounts if you shoot RAW?

I don't believe there is a way to have live blinkies....but you could have your camera setup to show the image immediately after capture with the blinkies, then you would n't have to manually "play" each image...it would just appear...

That sounds great. I'll need to go through the manual as I've barely picked it up. Having it show with blinkies immediately would work. Cheers.
 
Took a load of pics last weekend at my nieces birthday, was indoors with poor light, but the 35mm 1.4 was superb ! Will post a few pics later :)
 
That (Into the blue) is a nice shot Peter, some good detail, nicely composed, with some lovely reflections.(y)

George.
 
:) Good stuff- these make up a really nice interesting characterful set (though IMO # 2 would benefit from a bit of cropping to bring the sheep out a bit).
 
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