The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

The 18-135mm has to be the best flexible option in my opinion. However, I have never tried one all though I understand it's very good. The 18-55mm is excellent though, I can vouch for that. The f/2.8 aperture will give you more scope in lower light and allow you to shoot with a lower ISO giving you a higher quality image.
 
Tracy, if you shoot mainly at the shorter end and very rarely above the 135mm length, I would take just the 18-135. Yes, the 18-55 is faster but you'll be hard pushed to spot the differences between shots taken at 100 and 400 ISO on the X-T1. Having said that, if it's a once in a lifetime trip and you feel you might want to take even just a couple of telephoto shots, take the 2 lenses you already have. For me, the weather sealing is more to give a little extra protection against dust when we're in Crete - we rarely get any rain while we're there! (The WR might be handy here hough...)
 
So Fuji finally sorted out my voucher for the 18-135mm lens and now I need to decide whether to purchase it or not?
Im off to America at the beginning of September and wondering whether it would be better to take my 18-55mm + 50-230mm or get the new 18-135mm and just take that - have been told there is a good chance of showers so the fact its weather sealed is an advantage but wondered if anyone who has purchased the new lens can let me know what they think of it?
Many thanks.

I have been using mine a lot,i like it but for a trip to the US me i take a least 2 bodies one with the 18-135mm and maybe a couple of fast fixed lens :)
 
My minimum travel kit is now the X-T1, (with supplied flash) 10-24mm & 18-55mm, 4 batteries, 4 cards, circular polariser for the 18-55mm, travel tripod. With that combination pretty much everything is achievable. However, on my last trip I did hanker for my 70-200 for a couple of landscapes but I left that at home in the interests of compactness, weight and portability. It's all about compromise.
 
As I think I've said before, I'm going to try to use just the 18-135 for our next holiday in Crete BUT I'll have the Nikon 1 AW with an FT-1 adaptor and an 18-200 as well as the AW lens. There'll be an XF-1 about my person as well!
 
As I think I've said before, I'm going to try to use just the 18-135 for our next holiday in Crete BUT I'll have the Nikon 1 AW with an FT-1 adaptor and an 18-200 as well as the AW lens. There'll be an XF-1 about my person as well!

I think you should buy another camera to take with, doesnt sound like youre well prepared. :p
 
Hiya, I've been doing some experimenting with my manual film cameras, trying to learn how to use wider angles and hyperfocal distance focusing better. The trouble is I took two films on my West Coast trip, and didn't get to see the results for a week or two, so I wasn't able to correct the problem with my focusing. Not for the first time, I've thought that maybe I should have a "proper" digital camera so as to learn a bit better (shorter feedback times). I'm drawn to the XT-1 as it has a bunch of manual controls, more like a film camera, though it IS expensive just now.

My question is about using an X camera with the XF lenses, for hyperfocal distance focusing. Can you do that? I can see the if there is something in the view that's exactly the right distance, I could focus on it and re-frame. But if I'm pointing at the landscape, I'm likely to get focus on infinity, which means the nearest in-focus point will be further away. (I realise that the APS-C sensor means the field of view is deeper than for my 35mm film Pentaxes, but that's irrelevant for this purpose.)

I can see that a camera could easily focus on the hyperfocal distance if there was a control to get it to do so, but without that, or an object at precisely the right distance, I'm blowed if I can see how it would work!
 
I can see that a camera could easily focus on the hyperfocal distance if there was a control to get it to do so, but without that, or an object at precisely the right distance, I'm blowed if I can see how it would work!

Many compact system camera lenses are fly by wire and don't have end stops or DoF markings on the lenses and if that's the case with the lenses you're interested in you'll have to guestimate and focus on something "x" distance into your scene using the AF or manual focus. Another option is to use manual lenses with end stops and markings as it's quite easy to focus manually and very precisely using a magnified view and/or focus peaking.
 
Chris, the X-T1 has a focus distance scale in the EVF and has a DoF indicator around the focus distance mark on that scale. HTH.
 
Many compact system camera lenses are fly by wire and don't have end stops or DoF markings on the lenses and if that's the case with the lenses you're interested in you'll have to guestimate and focus on something "x" distance into your scene using the AF or manual focus. Another option is to use manual lenses with end stops and markings as it's quite easy to focus manually and very precisely using a magnified view and/or focus peaking.

Chris, the X-T1 has a focus distance scale in the EVF and has a DoF indicator around the focus distance mark on that scale. HTH.

Thanks guys (and @twist). Using AF onto an object some distance into the scene is only going to work sometimes (ie if there's a suitable object!), though it's nice to know there is a DoF indicator so at least you'd have a clue of the near and far limits.

I get the impression that using MF with these lenses is pretty tortuous (very low focus gearing?), unless you use the "AF then fine tune MF" approach (can't remember which back button does this in MF mode). But again, the latter's only going to work with a suitable object.

Also, both the 14 and 23 have markings.

So: both distance and DoF markings? If so, the 14 would seem like a good choice to learn hyperfocal distance focusing on!

Using a legacy manual lens would obviously be a good move. Unfortunately the 1.5 crop factor turns my not-very-wide 28mm into an almost-normal 42mm, and I haven't read paeans of praise for Pentax-X adapters either. And <20mm Pentax lenses seem humungously expensive!
 
Thanks guys (and @twist). Using AF onto an object some distance into the scene is only going to work sometimes (ie if there's a suitable object!), though it's nice to know there is a DoF indicator so at least you'd have a clue of the near and far limits.

I get the impression that using MF with these lenses is pretty tortuous (very low focus gearing?), unless you use the "AF then fine tune MF" approach (can't remember which back button does this in MF mode). But again, the latter's only going to work with a suitable object.



So: both distance and DoF markings? If so, the 14 would seem like a good choice to learn hyperfocal distance focusing on!

Using a legacy manual lens would obviously be a good move. Unfortunately the 1.5 crop factor turns my not-very-wide 28mm into an almost-normal 42mm, and I haven't read paeans of praise for Pentax-X adapters either. And <20mm Pentax lenses seem humungously expensive!

Credit to lenstip

97063_fuj14_skala.jpg
 
It's Gloucester Docks. They're filming there at the moment (supposed to be the sequel to Alice in Wonderland with Jonny Depo) so they've got a few tall ships in and props. I'd like to have spent some more time but I was taking the family out :)
 
It's Gloucester Docks. They're filming there at the moment (supposed to be the sequel to Alice in Wonderland with Jonny Depo) so they've got a few tall ships in and props. I'd like to have spent some more time but I was taking the family out :)

Thanks for that. I'm only in Bristol at the moment. Is there access to this early evening or is it all closed off ? I would quite like to go photograph this myself
 
Is this the Fuji people talking about. What the iso noise like on this how far can we go with the level before it gets unacceptable. This is coming from a canon 5d mkiii.

What low light photography like.
 
Also what the servo focusing like on this for tracking moving subjects such as daughter running around
 
Is this the Fuji people talking about. What the iso noise like on this how far can we go with the level before it gets unacceptable. This is coming from a canon 5d mkiii.

What low light photography like.

Low light is very good,i havnt gone pass 6400 at the moment,but real world results i have seen have been very good :)
 
Apparently theres new FW on the way for the XT-1.
Not the most difficult prediction for Fuji Rumors to make..
 
Fast start for Fuji X-T1 with John Gringo is on creative live now. Started half an hour ago.
 
I have just bought an X-T1. Would I be able to use my Tokina 11-66m Nikon mount with an adaptor in manual mode? There is no aperture ring on the Tokina lens.
 
I have just bought an X-T1. Would I be able to use my Tokina 11-66m Nikon mount with an adaptor in manual mode? There is no aperture ring on the Tokina lens.


Hi Iain, Yes you should be able to use your Tokina lens on the X-T1. Most of the adaptors require the lens to have a manual aperture ring, but there are some available that have a facility for stopping the lens down manually with a lever that is part of the adaptor. This is the type of adaptor you need, however the aperture you set is a bit touch and go as there is no way you will have an exact reference to the aperture you have set. Also make sure the adaptor is one that will allow infinity focus as not all of them do.

Hope this helps.,

George.
 
Thanks for replying. Do you have a link to a suitable adaptor please?

Hi Ian, If you get into Ebay and then paste the following link in the search area it should head you in the right direction.

Adapter Ring For Nikon AI AF G lens to Fujifilm Fuji X Mount X-Pro1 Camera DC294

Hope this helps.,

George.
 
Hi there, I have just received my new samyang 12mm f/2.

-Good news: I'm very impressed by the little size of this lens! Compare to my sigma 10-22. It really fit well on the body and weight very little.

-Bad news: It doesn't seems to fire at all! I can see the aperture move when i set it in the lens. At the bottom of the lens it says f/ = 0 because from what i understand this lens doesn't send any exif to the camera. But if i press the trigger nothing happen... Is it me missing something simple? I'm set to manual focus on the body. Full manual (although even in automatic the seting seems to adjust to something that give a good exposure. What should I be looking at?

Rather annoyed... hopefully it is something simple.
Thanks
 
Hi there, I have just received my new samyang 12mm f/2.

-Good news: I'm very impressed by the little size of this lens! Compare to my sigma 10-22. It really fit well on the body and weight very little.

-Bad news: It doesn't seems to fire at all! I can see the aperture move when i set it in the lens. At the bottom of the lens it says f/ = 0 because from what i understand this lens doesn't send any exif to the camera. But if i press the trigger nothing happen... Is it me missing something simple? I'm set to manual focus on the body. Full manual (although even in automatic the seting seems to adjust to something that give a good exposure. What should I be looking at?

Rather annoyed... hopefully it is something simple.
Thanks

Check in the menu foe "shoot without lens" this need to be set to on for this type of lens.

Edit : It's the bottom setting on 3rd page of shooting menu.
The line above that is "mount adapter setting" which if you go into you can set one of the last two options to 12mm for using this lens. Which means the focal length in the exif will be correct although the aperture will still read f0.
 
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Check you have "shoot without lens" enabled in the menu..

(because the camera can't see the lens, it needs to be told "That's ok, go ahead anyway")
 
Thanks to those that replied to my query about the 18-135mm lens - ive just ordered it and am going to take it away with me, along with a couple of fast primes :)
We are heading to Disney etc so decided that taking my Fuji would be a better idea that lugging my Nikon and lenses with me!
 
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