Nikon D810

Tracking sports cars over the weekend at Croft, the D4s kept up with everything I could throw at it with the 200-400 attached. Same lens on the D810, it did struggle on the closing shots(cars coming toward me) but was okay on panning and keeping focus where the cars were running parallel to me.
ISO settings, focus and exposure, were all same.
However, with the 70-200 f2.8 vrII, it was much closer.
 
So we can conclude that the D810 isn't a D4s.
Was it ever meant to be?
 
Well my D810 turned up 20 mins ago. It worked for 5 mins then shut off and appears to be dead. Nothing on LCD screen. Powered off mid shot and looks like shutter is stuck down.
Bit of a buzz kill
 
Well my D810 turned up 20 mins ago. It worked for 5 mins then shut off and appears to be dead. Nothing on LCD screen. Powered off mid shot and looks like shutter is stuck down.
Bit of a buzz kill

Bad news :( ... battery well charged before use?
Hope it turns out well for you.
 
Bad news :( ... battery well charged before use?
Hope it turns out well for you.

It uses the same as my D7000 so had been on charge all night.
Annoyingly I bought from jessops online as it appears NO stores have stock so returning it will be a pain as i kinda wanted it for my holiday which is today.(UK based though)
 
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Any recommendations on best cards to use in the D810? Am on the cusp of ordering and just starting to look at cards (and RAM for computer) Thanks.
 
Well my D810 turned up 20 mins ago. It worked for 5 mins then shut off and appears to be dead. Nothing on LCD screen. Powered off mid shot and looks like shutter is stuck down.
Bit of a buzz kill
Sorry to hear that Matty, hope it does appear to be battery. The D7000 battery that you're trying, is it genuine? As I wouldn't put it past nikon to put the kibosh on using non-genuine with this camera.
 
Sorry to hear that Matty, hope it does appear to be battery. The D7000 battery that you're trying, is it genuine? As I wouldn't put it past nikon to put the kibosh on using non-genuine with this camera.

Yep tried 2 genuine batteries, just waiting for the one that came with the D810 to charge. I managed to take 4 shots before it stopped. AArgh.
 
No, but Nikon claim it has the same AF feature set and speed as the D4S

In the same way they claimed the d800 had the same af system as the d4. Only difference is that the d4 was well known for not coping with approaching subjects at speed, but the d4s has that licked apparently.
 
In the same way they claimed the d800 had the same af system as the d4. Only difference is that the d4 was well known for not coping with approaching subjects at speed, but the d4s has that licked apparently.

Definitely nailed the approaching image. My only criticism is the quality of the two joysticks, I must've been the only one that preferred the quality and feel of the D4 items. They felt more rubbery. The D4s feel hard plastic and slippery.
 
Yep tried 2 genuine batteries, just waiting for the one that came with the D810 to charge. I managed to take 4 shots before it stopped. AArgh.

Very sorry to hear that. Give Nikon UK a quick phone call. I'm sorry I don't have their number to hand, I'm out and about at the moment.
 
In the same way they claimed the d800 had the same af system as the d4. Only difference is that the d4 was well known for not coping with approaching subjects at speed, but the d4s has that licked apparently.
Im with you Vlad, they did the exact same with the claims the D700 would AF exactly the same as the D3, in the real world it didn't happen, the dD700 was good, but only to about 75% as good as the D3

I fell for their blurb about the D800 being as good as the D4 and bought one as a 3rd back up to my 2x D3S, however the AF on the D800 when locking on and tracking wasnt as good as the D300 let alone the D700 or D3/3S

I still use a D800 for other things as its superb in most respects
 
Possibly - but I'm still intrigued as to why an image from a D800 suddenly loses IQ when you use crop mode.
I was under the possibly misguided impression that all crop mode did was to switch off the unused pixels leaving a chunk in the middle active.
However in order for the image to be identical in every aspect to one from a D7000 as sk66 suggests, it must surely lose aspects of IQ.
Unless of course I'm doing the D7000 a dis-service and it is a better camera than I thought.
This seems to form the basis of sk66's opinion and would suggest that anyone not needing the "width" that full frame gives would be much better advised to spend their money on a used D7000 and blow the change on (insert own indulgence here).

cheers, cw
One last attempt:
A crop doesn't change the performance of the sensor in any way... it doesn't matter if it's done in camera or in post. What DOES change is the resulting IQ of the final image and what you can do with it. This should be obvious to anyone.

This is the problem with "the ratings" etc... You have to understand that the performance ratings (DR/ISO/everything) are relative to every other camera when using the *entire image* to do *exactly the same thing.* The D800 is rated much better than the D7000 because you are using 36MP to generate an 8x10 compared to using 16MP to generate it. If you crop the D800 image down to 16MP (DX) you would then be comparing 16MP vs 16MP to create an 8x10... the D800 would perform/rate much worse in the comparison because you've thrown away 1/2 the image/data and you've removed a large portion of it's advantage. It would rate/perform very much the same as the D7000.

The performance ratings of the sensor are for the entire sensor combined... they are not for a portion of the sensor nor "per pixel."
Not understanding this leads people to think they don't have to worry about composition or using a longer lens. They think they can just crop the image and still get the same performance from the sensor, but you can't. (at a pixel level you can, at a final image level you can't)

The D800E/810 have an additional "advantage" in that they've modified/removed the AA filter which can allow the camera to resolve finer detail assuming the AA filter is the limiting factor in the image taking process. This advantage is more significant when displaying the image at closer to 1:1 and it is less significant when downsampling.

When comparing the same generation of technology a FF sensor will always win over a smaller sensor because it is using a larger area to collect more "information." And in low light larger pixels on the same size sensor will always win because each pixel can collect more "information."
There are both advantages and disadvantages to using a larger number of smaller pixels... There are reasons why the top cameras for action/low light (1Dx/D4s) are under 20MP and it's not because they couldn't have given them more. And there are reasons why one would choose a D800 over a D4 irrespective of cost.
 
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Yep tried 2 genuine batteries, just waiting for the one that came with the D810 to charge. I managed to take 4 shots before it stopped. AArgh.

any joy sorting this? bit of a worry... Only had similar happen once (can't remember which camera) and it was a dodgy memory card, screwed the camera until I took it and the battery out. Worth trying a different lens too.

What serial # is the camera (roughly)? Mine was one of the first in the UK supposedly and is in the 700 range.

Shooting a wedding today with the D810 and D3s combo for the last time, #2 D810 was delivered this morning :)
 
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One last attempt:
A crop doesn't change the performance of the sensor in any way... it doesn't matter if it's done in camera or in post. What DOES change is the resulting IQ of the final image and what you can do with it. This should be obvious to anyone.

If you crop the D800 image down to 16MP (DX) you would then be comparing 16MP vs 16MP to create an 8x10... the D800 would perform/rate much worse in the comparison because you've thrown away 1/2 the image/data and you've removed a large portion of it's advantage. It would rate/perform very much the same as the D7000.

OK
 
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No, but Nikon claim it has the same AF feature set and speed as the D4S
From the D700 up they all have the MultiCam 3500fx AF system. And the Expeed processors are primarily for video/jpeg processing. So I have no idea why we see the differences we do.
It would not surprise me if there have also been changes made to the pellicle mirror/beam splitter to allow more light/efficiency/accuracy to pass to the AF sensor... That would make sense given the recent AF at F/8 improvement.

I can say that some of these AF behaviors/differences we see may actually be due the lens/camera combination and not the camera body itself. I have one lens (Sigma 120-300mm f/2.8) that actually autofocuses faster and more accurately on my D800 than it does on my D4. I may have other lenses with similar behavior but I don't know as I tend to use the cameras/lenses for different purposes.
 
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Well my D810 turned up 20 mins ago. It worked for 5 mins then shut off and appears to be dead. Nothing on LCD screen. Powered off mid shot and looks like shutter is stuck down.
Bit of a buzz kill
That sucks...
I've been hoping Nikon would eventually sort their QC issues and I kind of thought maybe they were getting better... Hope this isn't part of a trend.

I'm guessing it's going back...
 
From the D700 up they all have the MultiCam 3500fx AF system. And the Expeed processors are primarily for video/jpeg processing. So I have no idea why we see the differences we do.
It would not surprise me if there have also been changes made to the pellicle mirror/beam splitter to allow more light/efficiency/accuracy to pass to the AF sensor... That would make sense given the recent AF at F/8 improvement.

I can say that some of these AF behaviors/differences we see may actually be due the lens/camera combination and not the camera body itself. I have one lens (Sigma 120-300mm f/2.8) that actually autofocuses faster and more accurately on my D800 than it does on my D4. I may have other lenses with similar behavior but I don't know as I tend to use the cameras/lenses for different purposes.

I'd doubt, I'm sure Gary was using the same top drawer stuff as me... I only have one set of lenses, used with a variety of nikon bodies. 70-200, 300 2.8, 500 4 etc
 
From the D700 up they all have the MultiCam 3500fx AF system. And the Expeed processors are primarily for video/jpeg processing. So I have no idea why we see the differences we do.
It would not surprise me if there have also been changes made to the pellicle mirror/beam splitter to allow more light/efficiency/accuracy to pass to the AF sensor... That would make sense given the recent AF at F/8 improvement.

I can say that some of these AF behaviors/differences we see may actually be due the lens/camera combination and not the camera body itself. I have one lens (Sigma 120-300mm f/2.8) that actually autofocuses faster and more accurately on my D800 than it does on my D4. I may have other lenses with similar behavior but I don't know as I tend to use the cameras/lenses for different purposes.
I only ever used Nikon 70-200mm, 300mm and 400mm glass and the AF and more particular the tracking was always poorer on the D700/800 as opposed to the D3/3S/4
 
Sandisk extreme class 10.
 
only 45mb sec, my 1000x is 3 times faster, to be honest theyre also too bleedin small for my fat arsed fingers
He asked which SD card people used, so I told him. My CF cards are faster than SD, but SD is only a back up or overspill.
 
If the 2nd slot on the D810 is set to back up and is much slower than the primary will that not create buffering issues? I currently use dual CF slots with identical cards so I am wondering which CF to pair with which SD that work well together without issue.
 
He asked which SD card people used, so I told him. My CF cards are faster than SD, but SD is only a back up or overspill.
I know mate, however ive never seen the point in 2 different card slots, especially when they are of massivly different speed formats, when using the SD as a back up you can only write to the CF card as fast as the slower SD card, pretty pointless in some respect
 
If the 2nd slot on the D810 is set to back up and is much slower than the primary will that not create buffering issues? I currently use dual CF slots with identical cards so I am wondering which CF to pair with which SD that work well together without issue.
missed this post, see my reply above
 
I know mate, however ive never seen the point in 2 different card slots, especially when they are of massivly different speed formats, when using the SD as a back up you can only write to the CF card as fast as the slower SD card, pretty pointless in some respect

I guess that what what was behind my original post - just wondering about most appropriate pairing.
 
In the D810 I use a mix of sandisk ultra and extreme, with the slowest being 45 mb/s and not had any buffering issues yet, writing the same RAW data to both cards.
 
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Don't use the sd card slot day to day. However, if the customer wants to see images as taken, then I'll take jpg to that card and raw to CF. If no need to transmit to ipad for viewing, I don't use it.
 
I use to sometimes use the second slot as overflow, then I had a card failure and my attitude changed, now if I'm doing anything paid I'll write the data to both.
 
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I'm currently using SanDisk Extreme Pro SD/CF. I normally write jpeg to SD.
Card size will depend on what you're shooting, your methods, and the file size selected. A single 14bit raw uncompressed is ~ 75MB... A 14bit raw lossless compresses is ~ 45MB... . I use lossless compressed and I've never seen a reason not too. And there's a good reason to use the lossless compressed...they write faster. As long as you don't fill the buffer I don't think write speed is much of a concern. And the larger buffer/faster processor on the 810 should make it almost a non-issue.

I've only ever filled the buffer on my D800 once, and that was on purpose. But it took so long to clear I thought the camera had locked up (14bit uncompressed).
 
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