Rugby/Football Photography - weather

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JustJackPhotography

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Jack
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I was wondering how you're all finding the constant changes to weather for Rugby and Football photography at the moment!

I am constantly pushing my exposure up and down because of random spots of 1 minute sunshine and then a crazy amount of clouds!

What does everyone usually do for this? Auto ISO or are you a scroller like me?
 
Light constant = Fully Manual

Light Changing = Semi Auto - You only need one semi auto option and most will use Auto ISO and everything else manual..
 
I tend to be fully manual the whole time. Think it's my fear of the camera letting me down. I'd prefer to be the one at fault!

When the sun is out, I'll work out what my exposure should be, so I'm ready to switch to it. Same when the sun has gone in.

It's the same with WB. In the shade/behind clouds can be very cold kelvin wise this time of year.

I must give auto ISO a try though, modern cameras are meant to be very good for it.
 
Seba said:
I tend to be fully manual the whole time. Think it's my fear of the camera letting me down. I'd prefer to be the one at fault!

When the sun is out, I'll work out what my exposure should be, so I'm ready to switch to it. Same when the sun has gone in.
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So a player runs up to take a penalty and just as he is about to kick the ball.. the sun comes out from behind a cloud and your settings are way way off.. theres a nano second...you lose the money shot? seems rediculous in ever changing cloud/sunlight not to use the options at your disposal... those setting are there for a reason on pro cameras...


how do you manage with your remote cameras? they cant be on fully manual when the lighting is changing....
 
I'm literally just annoyed that I wanted some awesome dramatic rainy rugby snaps but, got blinding sunshine and on and off clouds.

I end up just having to have 1 half of bright high shutter speed photos and then the 2nd half of dull low shutter speed with slight blur :( SAD TIMES!Vs. Deal (Home)-043.jpgVs. Deal (Home)-086.jpg
 
KIPAX said:
So a player runs up to take a penalty and just as he is about to kick the ball.. the sun comes out from behind a cloud and your settings are way way off.. theres a nano second...you lose the money shot? seems rediculous in ever changing cloud/sunlight not to use the options at your disposal... those setting are there for a reason on pro cameras...


how do you manage with your remote cameras? they cant be on fully manual when the lighting is changing....
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The light doesn't change that much in a nanosecond, it takes a couple of seconds for the sun to come out fully, plenty of time to adjust shutter speed if you're incredibly unlucky that a peak action like a penalty kick happens at the precise moment the light changes.. You won't find many pro's using Auto ISO, and rightly so. Auto ISO gets the exposure wrong/off too often for it to be relied on. Maybe ok on your second wide angle body if the light is changing and you can't keep on top of it but not as your main lens.
 
brizrob said:
You won't find many pro's using Auto ISO, and rightly so. Auto ISO gets the exposure wrong/off too often for it to be relied on.
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It's far more important to be paying attention to the action and timing your shots than paying attention to what the exposure meter is saying.

About the only people who never use auto ISO these days are people who don't keep up with technology or learn how to use the equipment to best effect. We pay a lot of money for cameras with very high technology/capability, it's just dumb not to use it when it can help you.
 
brizrob said:
The light doesn't change that much in a nanosecond, it takes a couple of seconds for the sun to come out fully, plenty of time to adjust shutter speed if you're incredibly unlucky that a peak action like a penalty kick happens at the precise moment the light changes.. You won't find many pro's using Auto ISO, and rightly so. Auto ISO gets the exposure wrong/off too often for it to be relied on. Maybe ok on your second wide angle body if the light is changing and you can't keep on top of it but not as your main lens.
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Sounds like you need to upgrade your gear if you cannot rely on it.

Auto ISO can be a life saver.
 
The best sports photographers use Auto-ISO very, very sparingly. They use full manual, with settings dialled in like normal for sunshine, and a second set of settings set-up with the recall/preview button for shade/shadow that can be implemented with the press of said button.

Like I said, Auto ISO on a second camera body in constantly changing light, sure. Main lens, no. It's too hit or miss to be relied on for your main shoot.
 
sk66 said:
It's far more important to be paying attention to the action and timing your shots than paying attention to what the exposure meter is saying.
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It's called being a photographer. If you are anywhere near halfway decent then you'll feel the light change and adjust accordingly.
And now with mirrorless you get a histogram in the EVF - monitoring exposure is hardly difficult.


About the only people who never use auto ISO these days are people who don't keep up with technology or learn how to use the equipment to best effect. We pay a lot of money for cameras with very high technology/capability, it's just dumb not to use it when it can help you.
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Auto anything can easily throw your settings out. Try shooting England v New Zealand or an equestrian event where the coats range from Lippizaner-like grey
to cavalry black. Spot metering will get it wrong, as will Evaluative - because the camera doesn't understand what is needed.

And when you say "the only people", you are calling a large swathe of working press and sports photographers technophobic, when they are anything but.
 
brizrob said:
The best sports photographers use Auto-ISO very, very sparingly. They use full manual, with settings dialled in like normal for sunshine, and a second set of settings set-up with the recall/preview button for shade/shadow that can be implemented with the press of said button.

Like I said, Auto ISO on a second camera body in constantly changing light, sure. Main lens, no. It's too hit or miss to be relied on for your main shoot.
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The best sports photographers use auto iso where it is appropriate. I imagine most of us(I am certainly not claiming to be one of the best) use manual iso unless there is changing conditions or a pitch that is halfway in out of sunlight. Even then I suspect I may use two back buttons for each half of the pitch. That helps get a more even set of images assuming you do your job and makes the shiny strips, shiny seats and variety of colours that fill your frame less of an issue.
Where I do most often use auto iso is a rugby game with falling light and on by short lens which only gets picked up for close action. I am not using it often enough for the setting to be kept up to date manually so I will use auto iso there. Even then I will be having a look to see if there is a light that may screw the meter up or similar. I can't say I have met a sports photographer who doesn't know their camera inside out and they all know the advantages and disadvantages of allowing your camera to meter.
 
Personally I use mostly use auto ISO and tweak the +/- exposure compensation for the scene. I rarely use auto ISO with no adjustment. I find this much faster than adjusting the ISO manually. I specialize in events in general, not specifically sports.
 
Having done first division full manual on film, I find things much easier now with the new tech. Average or if you were lucky centre weighted meetering compared to the matrix or whatever meetering we have today. IMHO I dont have any issues with auto iso, I dont find it getting it wrong personally. Yes any auto can be fooled, but I suspect it'll get it right much more often than most people think.
I use what works for me, yes manual has it's place, and thats where nothing is changing for me. If the lights changing a lot and things are happening fast I'm using some auto option like AV or auto ISO. I dont see the point of making life hard for myself.
 
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