save me

Trying out the black side of my new Vinyl Bg, really need to learn how to lock focus, had to use a torch whilst trying to focus and its not the easiest thing to do

Moo and Doo-1 by Fatheadedlizard, on Flickr
I don't understand why you would have problems focussing?

The expressions are great, but the lightings a bit harsh? What's it lit with?
 
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Thanks phil. I had virtually no ambient light and my camera (D3100) just wouldn't lock on, with the kit lens and with the 50mm prime.

I went into my local photography shop for a speedlight and the guy convinced to buy a studio kit http://www.konigelectronic.com/en_us/55861860 from him ( and massively overcharged me)and I find it just doesn't have the control, and need them quite fair away from the subject to get the light soft.

However I think the harsh lighting (front) maybe from the speed light (468ii) with a homemade snoot and I only had the little plastic diffuser it came it.
 
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Thanks phil. I had virtually no abient light and my camera (D3100) just wouldn't lock on, with the kit lens and with the 50mm prime.

I went into my local photography shop for a speedlight and the guy convinced to buy a studio kit http://www.konigelectronic.com/en_us/55861860 from him ( and massively overcharged me)and I find it just doesn't have the control, and need them quite fair away from the subject to get the light soft.

However I think the harsh lighting (front) maybe from the speedlight with a homemade snoot and I only had the little plastic diffuser it came it.

That's a bit frustrating for you - you'd have thought local specialists would really be going the extra mile in customer service if they wanted to survive in today's world of etail, grey important and fleabay.

Have had a look at some of your photos and you have a really good eye and there are some great expressions from your subjects. For the technical side, there's just so much advice and knowledge on this forum, I'm sure you'll be getting better results in no time.

Bear in mind that a skilled photographer can get some pretty good "studio style" images out of a single speedlight, a reflector and a shoot-through... it's about knowing how to use them.
 
That's a bit frustrating for you - you'd have thought local specialists would really be going the extra mile in customer service if they wanted to survive in today's world of etail, grey important and fleabay.

Have had a look at some of your photos and you have a really good eye and there are some great expressions from your subjects. For the technical side, there's just so much advice and knowledge on this forum, I'm sure you'll be getting better results in no time.

Bear in mind that a skilled photographer can get some pretty good "studio style" images out of a single speedlight, a reflector and a shoot-through... it's about knowing how to use them.

Thanks for the reply

I've read a fair bit on here, however I'm my own worst enemy I set up three lights last night thinking I know what I'm doing (when really I don't lol) instead of just starting with one and building from there. My kids are still enjoying modelling so I'll keep at it.

For the local shop I didn't mind paying a little extra to support the local business, however I will never buy from him again.
 
I found that incorporating two lights (speedlights) was alot more difficult that I thought it would be but if you keep at it you soon master it. (Well, get a little better in my case)

Does the d3100 not have an AF assist light then?

The image looks like it has been overdone with clarity to me, but I'm guessing it isn't and it's just a case of the lighting.

I think you need to look into different modifiers. That has been my biggest revelation so far.

I like the expressions though mate.
 
Alan - like others have said great expressions - you really got a couple of great models there to practice with. The idea and story telling is great as well.

Others have suggested looking at modifyers

You mention the D3100 - I have that camera and it can struggle in low light to lock focus - the answer as you are using flash is to have a small amount of ambient light - shoot with out the flash and make sure it's black and then use the flash to illuminate the scene

Keep up the great work
 
Alan - like others have said great expressions - you really got a couple of great models there to practice with. The idea and story telling is great as well.

Others have suggested looking at modifyers

You mention the D3100 - I have that camera and it can struggle in low light to lock focus - the answer as you are using flash is to have a small amount of ambient light - shoot with out the flash and make sure it's black and then use the flash to illuminate the scene

Keep up the great work

Thanks for the tip Brian it does have and AF assist light however it didn't quite last long enough for me to find the girls in the dark and focus . I was using a torch in my left hand and shooting with my right, however I think more ambient light would work.
 
Thanks for the reply

I've read a fair bit on here, however I'm my own worst enemy I set up three lights last night thinking I know what I'm doing (when really I don't lol) instead of just starting with one and building from there. My kids are still enjoying modelling so I'll keep at it.

For the local shop I didn't mind paying a little extra to support the local business, however I will never buy from him again.

Pick up a book on studio lighting, check out some lighting blogs (Lencarta is a good place to start).

Contrary to what you think you've seen, light gets softer as it gets closer (as it becomes relatively larger). A quick and dirty starting point:
Start with the softbox 45deg camera left or right at a height above your subject but not so high it creates dark eye sockets. Add the 2nd flash as a fill directly behind the camera (more or less in the flashgun position) but make sure it's 'fill' and isn't overpowering the keylight. And you can keep the room lights on, you'll only need to switch them off if you start doing some specialist stuff (hopefully by then you'll understand why) or if you really want to use the modelling lights to see what you're changing.

If you look at some of the early shots in Garry's workshop threads, you'll probably be surprised at how close we get the lights in a studio (when aiming for soft the rule is generally just outside of frame). In fact when I use them outside I'll generally have to clone them out.
 
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Pick up a book on studio lighting, check out some lighting blogs (Lencarta is a good place to start).

Contrary to what you think you've seen, light gets softer as it gets closer (as it becomes relatively larger). A quick and dirty starting point:
Start with the softbox 45deg camera left or right at a height above your subject but not so high it creates dark eye sockets. Add the 2nd flash as a fill directly behind the camera (more or less in the flashgun position) but make sure it's 'fill' and isn't overpowering the keylight. And you can keep the room lights on, you'll only need to switch them off if you start doing some specialist stuff (hopefully by then you'll understand why) or if you really want to use the modelling lights to see what you're changing.

If you look at some of the early shots in Garry's workshop threads, you'll probably be surprised at how close we get the lights in a studio (when aiming for soft the rule is generally just outside of frame). In fact when I use them outside I'll generally have to clone them out.

Thanks Phil, I find I can't turn down the lights enough and blow out a lot of the pictures, however it's probably more about technique and placement. I'll have look through the workshop threads.

Thanks again to all for the help
 
Thanks Phil, I find I can't turn down the lights enough and blow out a lot of the pictures, however it's probably more about technique and placement. I'll have look through the workshop threads.

Thanks again to all for the help
If they're 'blowing out' you need to change your exposure settings, 100iso and 1/180* and f11 is probably a good starting point for a close softbox. One of the problems with those lights though is the lack of control, they'll claim 4 or 5 stops, but it's nearer 2 from min to max.

But you can see from those settings, your overhead room light won't be affecting your exposures, so you won't have problems focussing.

* if 1/180 gives you a clean frame, it'll be a constant, you might get 1/200 but I doubt you'll get all the way to 1/250, and the shutter speed isn't changing the exposure, it's just that too high a speed might mean a black band due to the flash timing.
 
* if 1/180 gives you a clean frame, it'll be a constant, you might get 1/200 but I doubt you'll get all the way to 1/250, and the shutter speed isn't changing the exposure, it's just that too high a speed might mean a black band due to the flash timing.

Thanks Phil, I have been using a larger aperture so I think that's been my downfall !! Yeah I find at 1/200 it can only hit about 1 or 2 out of 5 shots cleanly.
 
Thanks Phil, I have been using a larger aperture so I think that's been my downfall !! Yeah I find at 1/200 it can only hit about 1 or 2 out of 5 shots cleanly.
Just drop your SS a 1/3 at a time till they're all clean. It wouldn't matter if it goes down to 1/60.
 
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