The Official Fuji X Pro 1 Thread

I am going to ask this potentially silly question (suppose as the saying goes, there are no silly questions, just silly answers)

Ok guys, something I am just experimenting with resolving (read getting better with) is getting full front to back sharpness in an image on my XP1.

When I shot landscapes on my Canon gear, (5dmk1 and 17-40L) I used to focus a third into the scene (using AF and whichever focus spot was roughly one third in) and then for example use F11, 14, 16 or whatever and take my shot. This resulted in very sharp images from front to back (I am aware of the other method of hyper focal distance, but I never had an issue with the way I did it)

So, fast forward, I am now using my XP1, along with 18mm, 35mm, 60mm, 18-55mm. I have tried using the same technique and I don't seem to get the same results. Does anyone have any suggestions about this? I am not sure why the same method would not work.
 
Use the focus distance scale (custom display) in manual mode and as you adjust the aperture it will tell you what distances will be in focus. That's the way I find easiest
 
Use the focus distance scale (custom display) in manual mode and as you adjust the aperture it will tell you what distances will be in focus. That's the way I find easiest

Thanks Andy. Just had a little look at that. Sat it on my tripod, focused the 18mm, set to f16 just to test, and it seems to be saying it will go from 1.25m to just over 10m. But not anywhere close to infinity.

Does that sound right?
 
I have a small reminder taped to the bottom of my XP-1 for quick reference to hyperfocal distances..



It should be self-explanatory (other than to say that I work in metres rather than feet). By focussing at the distance on the table (going by the focussing distance displayed in the EVF) I should be in focus from haf the indicated distance to infinity).

It comes in very handy. I can't pretend it's my own idea, I copied someone else. I didn't bother to include the 60mm because that isn't a lens for hyperfocal focussing.
 
Yeah mine gets from about 2m to infinity at f16. The 14mm will do more.......:D

Ahhh man, don't talk to me about the 14mm, I am literally on the edge of pressing the buy button on one of those bad boys!! Been thinking about the 14mm and the 10-24, think I'm almost set on the 14mm, due to being able to use it perfectly with my Lee Seven5 filter set. Those filters won't work properly with the 10-24 due to vignetting and also the 10-24 is a lot larger than the 14.
 
I have a small reminder taped to the bottom of my XP-1 for quick reference to hyperfocal distances..



It should be self-explanatory (other than to say that I work in metres rather than feet). By focussing at the distance on the table (going by the focussing distance displayed in the EVF) I should be in focus from haf the indicated distance to infinity).

It comes in very handy. I can't pretend it's my own idea, I copied someone else. I didn't bother to include the 60mm because that isn't a lens for hyperfocal focussing.

Alastair, good man thanks for that. Im not sure if I'm confusing myself or not. So if I have the 18mm, set to f16, your table is saying that I should be in focus from 1.03metres to infinity?

Another slightly stupid question, to judge 1.03 metres which is between 3-4ft, you just roughly judge it yourself I take it?

(assuming the figures in your table are in metres)
 
Alastair, good man thanks for that. Im not sure if I'm confusing myself or not. So if I have the 18mm, set to f16, your table is saying that I should be in focus from 1.03metres to infinity?

Another slightly stupid question, to judge 1.03 metres which is between 3-4ft, you just roughly judge it yourself I take it?

(assuming the figures in your table are in metres)

I think you are slightly confusing things - I think Alastair's table means if you're using your 18mm @f/16, if you FOCUS at 1.03m, you'll have an effective "in-focus" range from half-that (roughly 50cm) to infinity.
 
I think you are slightly confusing things - I think Alastair's table means if you're using your 18mm @f/16, if you FOCUS at 1.03m, you'll have an effective "in-focus" range from half-that (roughly 50cm) to infinity.
^ that

And I can either guess at something about a metre into the scene (c. 3') or use the distance scale in the viewfinder.
 
I think you are slightly confusing things - I think Alastair's table means if you're using your 18mm @f/16, if you FOCUS at 1.03m, you'll have an effective "in-focus" range from half-that (roughly 50cm) to infinity.

Ahh ok I shall give it a try and see if it improves things for me.

Here is a handy page which allows you to make a chart for all your lenses

Hyperfocal Distance Chart Maker

Make sure you set the LMF to 1:5

Brilliant thanks for that, I can now make the table specific to the lenses that I have :)

^ that

And I can either guess at something about a metre into the scene (c. 3') or use the distance scale in the viewfinder.

Ok cool thanks mate!

I shall go away and test out this method and see if it improves what I am looking for! I think I understand it a little better now. Thankyou.
 
Sorry if this has been discussed here before, but I have a sloooow internet connection and 61 pages to scan first!
So, here goes.
the problem I have is that when using OVF and my 18-55 lens, I rarely get what I am aiming at in focus.
I have AF corrected frame turned on, but when reviewing the images and overlaying the focus point, the focus point is always shown as down and to the right of where I was focussing.
This happens across all zoom settings.
Heres an example ( I get similar results when shooting at things in the distance so AF corrected frame wouldn't be in use then)

14570182762_35e576b73c_z_d.jpg


I focussed on the pink flower near the centre, the camera focussed on the dog reflection in the window.
I tried the same shot ( and others) at 18mm up to 55mm and all were the same.
Is this to be expected or is there a fault? My X100s under the same circumstances used to focus perfectly.
Using the EVF, standing in the same spot, everything is in focus as I would expect.

Allan
 
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Sorry if this has been discussed here before, but I have a sloooow internet connection and 61 pages to scan first!
So, here goes.
the problem I have is that when using OVF and my 18-55 lens, I rarely get what I am aiming at in focus.
I have AF corrected frame turned on, but when reviewing the images and overlaying the focus point, the focus point is always shown as down and to the right of where I was focussing.
This happens across all zoom settings.
Heres an example ( I get similar results when shooting at things in the distance so AF corrected frame wouldn't be in use then)

14570182762_35e576b73c_z_d.jpg


I focussed on the pink flower near the centre, the camera focussed on the dog reflection in the window.
I tried the same shot ( and others) at 18mm up to 55mm and all were the same.
Is this to be expected or is there a fault? My X100s under the same circumstances used to focus perfectly.
Using the EVF, standing in the same spot, everything is in focus as I would expect.

Allan


Allan,

As I understand it, the problem with the optical view finder is that, as it is not through the lens, the focal point is correct for longer distances but is not correct for close objects . On shooting menu 3 you can set "Corrected AF frame" to on, that gives you 2 focus boxes, one at infinity (solid) and one at the shortest focusing distance (hashed). In this case you would assume your focus point is somewhere in between but much closer to the hashed box.

Using the EVF does not have this problem because you are looking though the same lens as the photo is taken.
 
Quick question for anyone that has the 35mm 1.4 lens... is it quite noisy when turning the camera on/off? I'm talking in comparison to 16-50/50-230 newer lenses. Got one from the refurb store and the pics are great but just wondered if others make a few mild clunky noises, particularly at start up?
 
Allan,

As I understand it, the problem with the optical view finder is that, as it is not through the lens, the focal point is correct for longer distances but is not correct for close objects . On shooting menu 3 you can set "Corrected AF frame" to on, that gives you 2 focus boxes, one at infinity (solid) and one at the shortest focusing distance (hashed). In this case you would assume your focus point is somewhere in between but much closer to the hashed box.

Using the EVF does not have this problem because you are looking though the same lens as the photo is taken.

Thanks, I have AF correction on and can see the green square that moves between the centre box and hashed box, depending on distance. But, even at longer distances ( say 100ft or more) the focus point is still out, showing it had focused to the bottom right again. It makes it almost impossible to judge where to focus. Of course the answer is to use the EVF, but I prefer OVF in good light for most situations. My X100s OVF is almost uncannily accurate in these situations.
I have contacted Fuji to see what they suggest
Allan
 
Thanks, I have AF correction on and can see the green square that moves between the centre box and hashed box, depending on distance. But, even at longer distances ( say 100ft or more) the focus point is still out, showing it had focused to the bottom right again. It makes it almost impossible to judge where to focus. Of course the answer is to use the EVF, but I prefer OVF in good light for most situations. My X100s OVF is almost uncannily accurate in these situations.
I have contacted Fuji to see what they suggest
Allan

I have used the OVF on my one not had this problem,as you say might be worth having a word with Fuji to see their a problem with your OVF
 
I emailed fuji about this and am awaiting a reply. I can still return the camera as I suspect it is faulty and I bought it less than 3 weeks ago.
Shame, it's a really nice camera.
Allan
 
I emailed fuji about this and am awaiting a reply. I can still return the camera as I suspect it is faulty and I bought it less than 3 weeks ago.
Shame, it's a really nice camera.
Allan

I know hate returning cameras,my XE-2 is in for repairs :(
 
I also lost my rubber eyepiece. New one cost £12 from wex. This time I put a little clear nail varnish on the threads so hopefully this one won't fall off.
 
I dunno, but I don't know why I'd want to ?
 
But seriously I was gonna put a little blue loctite on it, but that sh@t would never come off, least ways nail varnish should easily crack with a little pressure.
 
Won't it mean you cannot remove though?
A small amount will lock it in place and stop it working itself free whilst still being able to "crack" it undone if needed.

Edit: Well look at that, same word used and posted at the same time.
 
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Any recommendations for a bag for the XPro? Have 3 decent sized bags for the DSLRs but would like a small one for the Xpro. Would like it to be big enough for: XPro, 18-55, 35, EF20 - small space for wallet, keys, would be useful. In an ideal world it would also be the right size to put a D700 and lens in on its own.
 
Thinktank Retrospective 5 or 7.. but choose your colour carefully, the pinestone option is always popular and usually more expensive than the others.
 
Thinktank Retrospective 5 or 7.. but choose your colour carefully, the pinestone option is always popular and usually more expensive than the others.
Thanks, forgot to add I am only looking for a cheapie option - to take out to park etc... My lowepro is my day to day bag and excellent but this will be used infrequently so not looking to spend too much (ideally £20-30)
 
Well, I sent my camera back to Fuji on Tuesday because when using the OVF, the camera didn't focus on what I wanted it to.
It's just come back. Focus works perfectly now.
Excellent service from Fuji even though I was expecting a refund!
So glad it came back!
Allan
 
I have a Retrospective 5. It holds the X Pro1, 18/35/60 lenses, EF-X20 flash, battery charger and filters plus batteries. It's full but fits well!
 
I have a retrospective 5 which fits 18, 35, 60 and 18-55. Also have a restro 30 as well for when I want to have other stuff with me and a backpack option of a Loweprowe photo hatchback which is really good as well, the 22L model.
 
I like both of these, I have not had the chance to use my 60 much on people yet since getting it. I like the processing you have done also.

Cheers. The mono one was with silver efex pro. Amplified whites and blacks. A very light tone and a white vignette. The colour one only had the basic iris enhance brush in lightroom with no addition to the basic preset. So almost straight out of camera. I did a whole shoot of over 100 images, mostly with the 60 and have done very little to them. The lens produces gorgeous images. Its made me wonder whether I need the 56 as I couldn't have shot a wider aperture without ND filter and from what I can tell the bokeh is nowhere near as nice at 2.4 as the 60 is. I don't need fast focus so I think I may have saved myself a ton of money. Now where's that 23.............
 
Andy, its an interesting point you make re the 60. I would love to see the same shot taken with both lenses to compare the bokeh.

I have always been a bit of a fast lens freak, and love to blur backgrounds. Its an interesting one indeed.

Don't talk to me about the 23. I need to make a decision between it or an x100s. Struggling to decide either way..................
 
Can anyone recommend a reasonably-priced (i.e. non-Lee) 10-stop filter for the X Pro 1? I recently bought a Tiffen screw-in 10-stop for my 10-24mm lens and the results are hugely disappointing, a horrible red-orange colour cast which is irrecoverable in post. I don't expect a cheaper brand to be completely neutral but this is awful. Having read into it, it seems to be a known issue but Tiffen are claiming the poor results are largely a consequence of the X-Trans sensor rather than their filters!

If anyone is getting reasonable results with another brand I'd love to hear...
 
can't really afford another x lens at the moment but i'm crying out for something a little longer than the 60. I have a comulsion to buy legacy lenses so I bought a Nikon-X adapter and a Vivitar Series 1 70-210 f3.5 mk2 (Tokina). It's going to take a little getting used to as it's a bit of a beast but is easy enough to use and I love the compression and DoF from it :)

zoom+%281+of+1%29.jpg
 
Hey guys/gals, whats everyone been shooting with their XP1's?

Seems to have gone very quiet in here! :(

I have just ordered a 14mm f2.8 lens which should be delivered for Friday and have just received yesterday my Lee Little stopper so looking forward to getting out at the weekend and testing them out.
 
I picked up the 23mm for my X-Pro1 and had a good go with it in Berlin last week, a very nice and useful lens. Not sure if it will displace the 35mm as my walkabout lens..



I'm also trying out VSCO pack #1, although the above was processed with one of my own WIP presets for LR.
 
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