The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

Apologies if this had been covered before, probably numerous times, but had a play a couple of times now with the XT20, but majority of images seem blurred, a problem I’ve never had before. Can you recommend the best menu set up settings to avoid this?

Thanks in advance.
 
Does anyone use a tilt-shift lens with their Fujis? I am looking for one wide enough for architecture. Any recommendations? Thanks
 
bossy said:
Apologies if this had been covered before, probably numerous times, but had a play a couple of times now with the XT20, but majority of images seem blurred, a problem I’ve never had before. Can you recommend the best menu set up settings to avoid this?

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Have you maybe got your lens set to manual focus? Surely your settings in camera won't make the images blurry unless it's a super slow shutter speed you've set it to.
 
scottduffy said:
Have you maybe got your lens set to manual focus? Surely your settings in camera won't make the images blurry unless it's a super slow shutter speed you've set it to.
Click to expand...
Nope, automatic focus and doing everything I used to do on my XE1, but so many images are unusable.
 
architectfadi said:
Does anyone use a tilt-shift lens with their Fujis? I am looking for one wide enough for architecture. Any recommendations? Thanks
Click to expand...

I've tried three different shift lenses so far. I have a Canon FD 35/2.8 tilt-shift, an Olympus 35/2.8 shift only, and a Samyang Canon EF-fit 24mm/3.5 tilt-shift. I tried each of them on Fuji bodies. I started with the Canon FD. Lovely lens, really well made, heavy and robust. An old lens so not bitingly sharp and colours are different to modern lenses. I found 35mm to be a bit too long on the crop bodies though. So I tried the 24mm Samyang when I saw one at a good price. Pictures from it seemed "more modern", contrasty and more saturated but the lens is huge, heavy and, more importantly, my copy had a broken shift mechanism so it went back. I've just bought the Olympus. It doesn't tilt (but I never used that in anger anyway on the other lenses) but it shifts in two directions at once, which I like - for stitching panos, which is my main expected use for the lens, I can shift up and take three pictures centred, shifted left and shifted right, then shift down and repeat (maybe also doing a row in the middle) and merge six (or nine) pics for a pano.

I'm in the middle of testing out the Canon FD and Oly lenses. IQ-wise they look very close with the Canon having the slightest edge at the moment.

This is a three shot vertical pano using the Canon FD (three landscape shots shifted vertically):
shard X by Ian, on Flickr

This one is a six shot horizontal pano with the Olympus (not double shifted, just six portrait alignment shots shifted left to right with a lot of overlap):
National I by Ian, on Flickr

Click through toFlickr and I think the full res shots should be visible.

If you are anywhere near north/central London you are welcome to come and try them out.
 
Jelster said:
@Uncle Fester Danny - if you look at this link, you can see at the end of the thread, there's a shot using the 80mm & 1.4TC.
Click to expand...

Thanks Steve

That's helpful and a good looking image.

I know that (and this another dumb beginners question) if I used the 1.4 t/c with the 80mm Macro I would extend the reach of the lens by 1.4 times i.e. the lens is now effectively 112mm.

But would the t/c also act like extension tubes (increasing magnification) as you are introducing distance between the lens and the sensor?

Or am I totally misunderstanding things?

Thanks.
 
Just updated two bodies and several lenses.

First time I've ever updated any of my stuff.

When I was updating a new lens; I deleted the firmware of the previously updated lens from the SD card.

Is that the correct way of doing things; or could I have loaded all the firmware for all the lenses and bodies on the card and each body and lens would have 'found' the right firmware?

I was worried that I could have updated the firmware for the wrong lens or camera - or wouldn't that have happened?

Sorry; but I'm a bit of a techno dunce!
 
Uncle Fester said:
Just updated two bodies and several lenses.

First time I've ever updated any of my stuff.

When I was updating a new lens; I deleted the firmware of the previously updated lens from the SD card.

Is that the correct way of doing things; or could I have loaded all the firmware for all the lenses and bodies on the card and each body and lens would have 'found' the right firmware?

I was worried that I could have updated the firmware for the wrong lens or camera - or wouldn't that have happened?

Sorry; but I'm a bit of a techno dunce!
Click to expand...
You can load them all on the same card - obviously as long as you avoid duplicate names. For instance, I think all bodies share the same filename but lenses seem to have unique names. The camera will not recognise the update file if it doesn’t match the lens, as both the file and the len’s internal firmware have unique identifiers.
 
Uncle Fester said:
Just updated two bodies and several lenses.

First time I've ever updated any of my stuff.

When I was updating a new lens; I deleted the firmware of the previously updated lens from the SD card.

Is that the correct way of doing things; or could I have loaded all the firmware for all the lenses and bodies on the card and each body and lens would have 'found' the right firmware?

I was worried that I could have updated the firmware for the wrong lens or camera - or wouldn't that have happened?

Sorry; but I'm a bit of a techno dunce!
Click to expand...


Stephen L said:
You can load them all on the same card - obviously as long as you avoid duplicate names. For instance, I think all bodies share the same filename but lenses seem to have unique names. The camera will not recognise the update file if it doesn’t match the lens, as both the file and the len’s internal firmware have unique identifiers.
Click to expand...

Thank you both.
 
Uncle Fester said:
Thanks Steve

That's helpful and a good looking image.

I know that (and this another dumb beginners question) if I used the 1.4 t/c with the 80mm Macro I would extend the reach of the lens by 1.4 times i.e. the lens is now effectively 112mm.

But would the t/c also act like extension tubes (increasing magnification) as you are introducing distance between the lens and the sensor?

Or am I totally misunderstanding things?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Wouldn't act as tubes, in fact it would have the opposite effect and your closest focus distance would be further away....
 
Jelster said:
Wouldn't act as tubes, in fact it would have the opposite effect and your closest focus distance would be further away....
Click to expand...

Thanks.

I thought the working distance would be further away; but was unsure if there was an increase in magnification because of the increased distance from the sensor.
 
ianmarsh said:
I've tried three different shift lenses so far. I have a Canon FD 35/2.8 tilt-shift, an Olympus 35/2.8 shift only, and a Samyang Canon EF-fit 24mm/3.5 tilt-shift. I tried each of them on Fuji bodies. I started with the Canon FD. Lovely lens, really well made, heavy and robust. An old lens so not bitingly sharp and colours are different to modern lenses. I found 35mm to be a bit too long on the crop bodies though. So I tried the 24mm Samyang when I saw one at a good price. Pictures from it seemed "more modern", contrasty and more saturated but the lens is huge, heavy and, more importantly, my copy had a broken shift mechanism so it went back. I've just bought the Olympus. It doesn't tilt (but I never used that in anger anyway on the other lenses) but it shifts in two directions at once, which I like - for stitching panos, which is my main expected use for the lens, I can shift up and take three pictures centred, shifted left and shifted right, then shift down and repeat (maybe also doing a row in the middle) and merge six (or nine) pics for a pano.

I'm in the middle of testing out the Canon FD and Oly lenses. IQ-wise they look very close with the Canon having the slightest edge at the moment.

This is a three shot vertical pano using the Canon FD (three landscape shots shifted vertically):
shard X by Ian, on Flickr

This one is a six shot horizontal pano with the Olympus (not double shifted, just six portrait alignment shots shifted left to right with a lot of overlap):
National I by Ian, on Flickr

Click through toFlickr and I think the full res shots should be visible.

If you are anywhere near north/central London you are welcome to come and try them out.
Click to expand...
Many thanks for your reply. I will have a look at these lenses online. Is 24mm going to be wide enough on a cropped sensor for Architecture?
 
V4 firmware out today. Some interesting additions in it.
 
Uncle Fester said:
Thanks Steve

That's helpful and a good looking image.

I know that (and this another dumb beginners question) if I used the 1.4 t/c with the 80mm Macro I would extend the reach of the lens by 1.4 times i.e. the lens is now effectively 112mm.

But would the t/c also act like extension tubes (increasing magnification) as you are introducing distance between the lens and the sensor?

Or am I totally misunderstanding things?

Thanks.
Click to expand...
Jelster said:
Wouldn't act as tubes, in fact it would have the opposite effect and your closest focus distance would be further away....
Click to expand...
The TC does not change the close focusing distance but does indeed increase magnification 1,4x.
The magnification optained using tubes depends on the focal length of the lens and hight of tube. The longer the focal length the more extension is needed to reach the same magnification.
 
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Ian W said:
Can't wait to try out the focus stacking.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'll enjoy playing with that too. I assume it doesn't stack in camera too?

Custom display thing might be interesting, will take a look at that later. And although I don't shoot that much video, 1080/120p could be fun.
 
Logicearl said:
I'm after a couple of lens cases, for the 100-400 and the 16-55, any recommendations for ones that are well padded, and offer a snug fit.
Click to expand...

Thinking a Lowepro lens case 1W would be fine for the 16-55
 
SsSsSsSsSnake said:
Anyone confirm xtrans 3 raw lossless not supported by Apple or affinity photo?
Click to expand...

As in the processor that's in the T2, T20, H1 etc?

I can view RAW files perfectly on my Mac, and on IOS. I have Affinity on the iPad Pro and that works too (although I never use it).
 
Jelster said:
As in the processor that's in the T2, T20, H1 etc?

I can view RAW files perfectly on my Mac, and on IOS. I have Affinity on the iPad Pro and that works too (although I never use it).
Click to expand...

Steve, with X-Trans3 you have the option to compress (lossless) RAW files to give more card space. Only certain applications can uncompress Fuji Compressed RAWs, I don't know the full list, but I'm sure someone will
 
Mr Perceptive said:
Steve, with X-Trans3 you have the option to compress (lossless) RAW files to give more card space. Only certain applications can uncompress Fuji Compressed RAWs, I don't know the full list, but I'm sure someone will
Click to expand...

Yep, what was I thinking :rolleyes:. Never use it, with the state of my shots I need all the help I can get :)
 
Mr Perceptive said:
Steve, with X-Trans3 you have the option to compress (lossless) RAW files to give more card space. Only certain applications can uncompress Fuji Compressed RAWs, I don't know the full list, but I'm sure someone will
Click to expand...
This ,because i believe that Apple inc Affinity because it uses the Apple engine cant read lossless compressed,im asking for a mate who considering buying an ipad but only shoots in lossless.
 
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