WORKFLOW STEPS - What do you do?

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295
Name
Ramesh (Ram)
Edit My Images
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After a comment on this thread I thought I may as well put this one out there.

The only other thread on workflow I was able to search and find was this RAW Workflow.

So, please rip my workflow apart and also please post what you do too :)

Tips and tricks and any and all software welcome.

Ramesh.

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PRE-IMPORT

  • Download files on PC on the night of the shoot and create first backup copy too. Go to bed.
  • Wake up, make a massive jug of Colombian roast coffee and get to work.
  • Create a "master" and a "work" folder set
  • Open Lightroom and create a new catalogue (I do this for every "major" shoot) in the top level of the "work" folder
  • Import the images from the "work" folder and apply an import preset which tags the images with a unique keyword, sets copyright and imports them at 1:1
  • Have a cuppa, browse internet whilst it's doing that
POST-IMPORT (approx 10mins)

  • Create a Smart Collection set for the unique keyword set at import and also sub folders for the keywords I am going to spray can:
  • Keywording - Using the Library module: Use the keyword spray can to spray the the photos with the stages of the shoot; "getting ready", "bridal portrait", "ceremony", "formal groups" etc
  • The photos will automatically jump into the smart collection sets

REMOVE ALL DUPLICATES and "TEST SHOTS" (30 mins)

  • No messing about here, starting with the first photo and with both hands on the keyboard, with a finger on the "right arrow key" and a finger on the "x" key, I reject all duplicates and test shots (blurry, poor framing etc)
  • I then filter on the the rejected and check them quickly. I then filter on the others and check them quickly too. Looking for any missed ones, tagged mistakenly etc.
At this point, I have now done all the prep work so I can concentrate on the "keepers". From the "keepers" I will ultimately create a "client set", which are the ones I will give to the client :)

POST PROCESSING (can take a few hours to a full day depending on number of images in the "keepers" set)

  • The fun begins...
  • In the Develop module I basically follow the order of the panel. I perform the following on sets of similar photos. That is, I find the first photo in the set that needs correcting, make the adjust and then sync the others or copy and paste the corrections:
    • Except Lens correction, why it is at the bottom I don't know - I switch this on first for all the photos
    • Correct the white balance for a "set" of similar photos
    • Correct the exposure
    • Perform recovery if I need to
    • Always increase the blacks slightly
  • As I am scanning, I'll use the Spot Removal tool to remove artefacts and the GND filter for the sky
  • I play a little with the "Presence" set of sliders
  • Apply slight noise reduction to all the high ISO shots (I filter on the shots that have an ISO at or above 800) - The 5D II is great for low noise!
  • Apply a little vignette to nearly all the photos using post-crop setting so that the crop further below does not affect this vignette
As I am going through each photo and viewing them for a little longer, I may reject some (x) key. Which I do regularly. I do this heavy amount of PP on the "keepers" and not the subset of "clients" (see below) because they could all become part of the client set.

I also tag for the client set as I am working on the images:

CREATE THE CLIENT SET

  • The main difference between this set and the "keepers" set is that all the photos are unique and are what I consider to be "the best" of the keepers.
  • I tag with the 6 key, and set the colour to Red. These tagged images are much easier to see than a 5 star image
  • I do a quick run through from first to last image to make sure I am happy with the client set
  • Nearly all the shots from the "keeper" set can make it to the "client" set
  • It is on these that I spend the most time
The remaining steps are done on the client set...

CREATIVE or CORRECTIVE CROPS

  • I'll do the crops at this point. I maintain the aspect ratio and crop specifically:
    • Remove stuff on the edges I did not spot when I did the in-camera crop
    • Want a better composition
    • Create an image from an image (the massive file from the 5D II lets me do this with no size issues)
At this point, I could leave it all natural. Which I have done many times.

EXPORT FOR PROOFING

  • I export these files for my private web gallery. I use FotoPlayer and so set the options accordingly and upload the gallery directly through Lightroom
    • I've applied a watermark on the images and reduced size for this export
  • I send an email to the client inviting them and their friends to view their gallery along with a PDF on how the gallery works, ordering prints etc
  • I also ask them to place an order from FotoPlayer which lets them choose which photos they would like in their album. This is used as a guide for me in case there is a really important shot they want in their album. I try and create the album with that I think would be good.
The remaining steps are the effects such as increasing colour, split toning, black and white etc.

POST PROCESS EFFECTS (can take couple of hours to days)


  • I then make the black and white set. I do this by making virtual copies of all the photos. I then filter on the virual copies, put them in and black and white collection and then run a preset that I created.
  • Next I look at finding signature photos and do a number of effects on them such as split toning, different hue, open in Photoshop and run some effects actions
  • If the client has requested any additional PP then I do this now too
  • At this point, you can take as long as you like doing many different effects, show off your skills or just leave them as they are
 
I'm not a pro but here's mine, I've streamlined it from the mess it used to be and added back up as well now.

PRE-IMPORT

*Connect camera to laptop, turn on and import, all files automatically import direct into a dated folder in my raw file vault.
* Roll cigarette to enjoy whilst files import.

POST-IMPORT

* check raw files, mark keepers, delete the rest.

REMOVE ALL DUPLICATES and "TEST SHOTS" (0 mins)

*Already done in the above step.

POST PROCESSING

*Open CS5 then open image (opens in ACR)

Straighten image if needed
Adjust white balance
Adjust exposure if needed
Adjust blacks
Adjust highlight recovery/fill light
Adjust contrast
Adjust clarity
Adjust vibrance
Adjust saturation

Next sharpening/noise reduction

Zoom to 100%
Radius set to 0.6
Adjust sharpening to taste holding down the alt key
Detail checked and adjusted again holding down alt key
zoom out a little (66%)
Adjust masking holding down alt key
Adjust luminance noise reduction
Adjust luminance contrast
Adjust colour noise reduction

Next Lens corrections

Find and apply settings for lens used

Finally zoom out to fit on screen and back to initial adjustments to make sure nothing needs sorting as sometimes the highlight recovery/fill light levels need further adjustment.

Open in CS5,duplicate layer for each process to be used.

Usually:

Levels

Crop

Further sharpening or noise reduction if I feel its needed.

Apply any effects desired (often none bar black and white conversion)

B&W conversion
convert using the B&W conversion tool, sometimes creating several layers with different processes used, ie standard and an enriched blacks version, then use the fill controls on the layers to achieve the look I want, then add grain if I wish and final levels.

Resize for specific uses.

I usually save each of the following sized Jpg's all done using automated batch with my own action set.

12 x 9 full resolution
800 pixels long edge 150dpi
600 pixels long edge 72dpi

All files saved using descriptive file name and saved direct to allocated folders organised by subject type.

Original raw file is left untouched in the raw file vault in its dated folder so I can return to it if I wish at a later date.

CREATE THE CLIENT SET

*No clients..I'm an amateur.. just me to satisfy.

CREATIVE or CORRECTIVE CROPS

* Done earlier


EXPORT FOR PROOFING

* Upload suitable shots to website and online galleries


POST PROCESS EFFECTS

* Already done


Back up is automatic on my system to an external hard drive and a whole photo folders back up is automatically done at 3am every morning as well, Sundays a whole system back up is also automatically done.
 
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Ram, i read your comment on the other thread, very decriptive and a lovely step by step guide! :)

p.s. i dont have a workflow at the moment, just do whatever i need to do as and when :thinking::bang:
 
Ram, i read your comment on the other thread, very decriptive and a lovely step by step guide! :)

Thanks, and...

p.s. i dont have a workflow at the moment, just do whatever i need to do as and when :thinking::bang:

... haha, that used to be me! At some point, it does really help getting organised. Instead of the fog of uncertainty, you have a schedule that you work too and the task at hand will never appear daunting at all :)

I actually look forward to some parts of some schedule. I get all "in a few hours I'll be doing this bit...!" :LOL:
 
i know a workflow is a must for professionals.. actually if your a seriously into photography and take a whole load of photos everyday/week/month it will save you some time...

Now its for me to stop talking and start getting myself into a routine! :LOL:
thanks ramesh for taking the time and sharing your workflow with us.
 
This is very informative! Thanks for sharing.
Should really force myself to be more discipline.
 
Thank you so much guys for sharing your work flows its helping me out big time :clap:
 
This is very useful, like Ian I don't shoot professionally but I do want to cut down on my processing time and have some conformity between shots.

I probably need to study up more on lightroom to see what it can do and what each of the sliders will give me (or take away). Any recomendations?
 
Another non-professional very grateful to Ramesh and Ian for sharing their workflows. Thank you both!
 
I've just changed my workflow and blogged it here

http://blog.weshootpeople.co.uk/2010/09/28/changing-my-lightroom-workflow/

I explain why I've made some changes too.

It's worth noting that once you get into the realms of "developing" the images, workflow varies based on what the image is, and where it's going. A landscape that's going to end up on the web, is going to get reated a lot differently to a portrait that gets printer 30x20 and more time gets spent on the larger images. So it's much harder to specify what happens there. But if you want to see my beauty retouch workflow, then start here...

http://blog.weshootpeople.co.uk/tutorial-index/
 
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This is very useful, like Ian I don't shoot professionally but I do want to cut down on my processing time and have some conformity between shots.

I probably need to study up more on lightroom to see what it can do and what each of the sliders will give me (or take away). Any recomendations?

I have the Lightroom book for Digital Photographers, prefer having a book in front of me. I used that and a lot of playing to see the results.

I'm sure there are a few tutorials online you can google. I cannot recommend any as I haven't tried any of them.
 
Thanks.. I think the best thing I did was sort the file/folders system.
Organisation is the key and though its very time consuming sorting things out initially, once done it really does speed things up, not only that but you always know where to find a photo your looking for.

I created a separate folder called "raw file vault", all my raws go directly into here from the camera, and as said the process creates a separate dated folder for them. Once the raws are sorted into keepers and the rubbish deleted they are never changed, they stay there for good, like keeping a set of negatives, I can go back to the original image as it came out of the camera any time I want.

I then just created year dated folders and sorted all my previous photo's by year and put them in sub folders ordered by subject.
Lastly I created a "recent" folder along with subject sub folders and each subject subfolder has 3 subfolders in it sorted by image size. This is where all this years photo's go, at the end of the year I rename it to its year and a new recent folder with subfolders is created.

Here's a couple of screen shots.

On both notice the folder structure on the left of the image, on the first image you can see its raw file vault/ then subfolders labelled Canon, Nikon, DNG,panasonic, this is to cover the different makes of camera I have had, if you just have the one make then yours would just contain the dated folders.

Rawfilevault.jpg



Next the "all recent images" again notice the folder structure, with all subjects being subfolders of all recent images, then as shown the different image size subfolders within each subject subfolder.
Some are even further divided, so "people" has subfolders called family,friends, self portraits.
Wildlife is divided further with insects, birds, mammals etc etc.

recent.jpg



Finally blame my late brother for this.. he was always complaining at the state of my folders and filing system, sadly it took me until after his death to realise he was right and being a little anal was no bad thing when it comes to keeping your files and folders in order.

Oh this is all on a windows machine running Win7 64bit
 
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:wacky:


open image with chosen software > edit > save as tiff, jpg, and small jpg to the folder I have created and named......The Flippin End.

y'awl need to get out more..
 
Have you ever seen the videos from kelby about light room? I think your workflow pretty much matches the steps they advise.
 
Have you ever seen the videos from kelby about light room? I think your workflow pretty much matches the steps they advise.

I haven't. Mine is born from some basics steps I did in LR 1 and then tweaked through the years. I've picked up tips from David Ziser's website as well as some "Develop" workflow from youtube.
 
Have you ever seen the videos from kelby about light room? I think your workflow pretty much matches the steps they advise.

No me neither, just what I worked out for myself through trial and error.

The good thing with being this anal is no more hunting for an image, I know exactly where everything is.
 
so when you have done some pics for a client and they need work do you convert to the printing profile first and then do all your adjustments, or do you do all the adjustments and then convert to the printing profile.

LR doesn't use a colour profile per se, on RAW files, although in the Develop module it will provide the widest gamut using ProPhoto RGB. This is because RAW files do not contain a colour profile.

So, to answer your question, only when you export do you need to choose a profile.
 
My end to end workflow is as follows and it works for me:

1. Import to LR via Lexar Firewire card reader (folder structure is set up with date first e.g. 2011/11/02 then the event name e.g. wedding [name])

2. First cull where I give a star rating to the keepers

3. Create a collection set in LR and move all the keepers to there, within the collection set I usually have two collections e.g. for a wedding I will have 1. B&G [name], 2. Blog etc

4. Basic edits such as exposure tweaks, cropping etc as well as culling any images that shouldn't be there - the reason I use collections is that you quickly remove an image from the collection by pressing backspace or delete.

5. Export using a droplet which applies my 'Basic Edits' action, this includes about eight layers including Medium contrast, light contrast, vignette, gradient map B&W, skin smoothing and a few others although all the layers are switched off in the saved image. This export can take a couple of hours so I just leave it to run.

6. The output is a PSD file which means I can open each one and with a couple of clicks can apply whatever layer I want and do any masking as required. It may sound complicated but I can now do the final edits on 350-400 images in about two hours using my Wacom pad. I use a plug-in thingy called autoloader that opens, saves and closes each image by pressing F5 on the keyboard.

7. I save each image as a PSD (using autoloader) without applying any sharpening, this now gives me my master images and I can then run an action for resizing and sharpening for web if they are going on the website or a separate action for sharpening for print.
 
Thanks Guys great thread and just what I was looking for :)
I need to get more organised and I think this is going to help a lot
Cheers
Allan
 
Wow only just noticed this thread as quite new to TP.

It's almost frightening the amount of work people spend in the "processing" stage - I enjoy taking photos but I really do not like having to spend time "improving" them digitally after the event. If I'm not happy with a shot then the "delete" key is normally my chosen option.

I guess that Photoshop would not sell many copies is everyone has this attitude. ;)
 
The outline of mine:

On-site (optional)
1) Import into LR catalogue with backup of images and catalogue file onto External HD.

At home:

1) either import from card into LR.
OR
ingest catalogue from portable EHD onto desktop after re-linking images to correct locations.

2) Convert to DNG (drinking much tea in the process).
3) Back-up to External E-SATA drive and send drive off-site.
4) Back-up to Network storage device (currently over wireless network so usually overnight).
5) Render 1:1 previews (overnight).

6) First pass ratings: star rating and reject.
7) Work out, based on how many images need to be delivered, what cut off for rating is needed to give the right number of images, and add "pick" flag to those.
8) Add extra images to picks that may be lower rated but are required for another reason.

9) quick edit of picked images using quick develop panel in library.
10) export watermarked JPEGs for web gallery if required.
10a)make web gallery from JPEGS using Jalbum and upload via FTP.

Before client viewing
11) Process using develop module in LR, plus photoshop if required.

For ordered images only
12) Flag images as "Ordered" - blue flag in LR.
13)Export images for delivery (TIFF / JPEG digital file / JPEG for printers).

14)After client images selected and processed, burn to DVD and send off-site.
15) At archive time (usually after 6 months) delete rejected photos
 
I'm new to TP and have found this an interesting thread. Looking forward to learning lots more as well :clap:

Cheers

Di
 
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