Any woodworkers here?

CaveDweller

CaveDweller

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I've just finished hand making a computer desk I've wanted to build for a while out of solid pine and I'm wondering what the best way would be to protect it? Varnish, stain, wax, etc...Must be able to put up with the usual dirty hands/arms and stains from cups...or beer! I also want the grain to really "pop" because I spent ages choosing the sheet wood I wanted.

I've also left the bark along the front edges of the desk so I'd like to protect that as well from falling to pieces or getting knocked off.

~Cheers!

I'll get some pictures up some point. Pretty pleased with my first bit of furniture :D finally put all my dads old tools to use.
 
oooooo pics! pics! pics! please :D

Unfortunately I'm not a woodworker - or at least have nothing like the skill to make something like that, but I'd love to see it anyway.
And for finish, I don't think there's anything else like wax to bring the grain out and keep a natural look.
 
SarahLee said:
oooooo pics! pics! pics! please :D

Unfortunately I'm not a woodworker - or at least have nothing like the skill to make something like that, but I'd love to see it anyway.
And for finish, I don't think there's anything else like wax to bring the grain out and keep a natural look.
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Well actually I lied, it's not COMPLETELY finished, just a few bits to do yet so I'll get some up when I'm done. I really want to keep the bark along the front edges, but if you're lazy like me and rest your arms on the desk as you type then it's quite uncomfortable. I might test a way on another bit of wood to see if I can sand the bark down a bit to make it smooth without wrecking it.
 
AndyB1976 said:
Can't really help but as a wannabe diy'er I subscribe to Paul Sellers channel on YT.

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Cheers. I think Sarah is right about the wax. I can remember some bits from woodwork in school and the teachers always used wax on the pine. Subscribed to him now as well!
 
Wax on it's own would not be durable enough to withstand cups etc, any moisture at all and you would get ring marks, you need to seal the wood first using a varnish or other wood seal and then wax over the top.
It's highly unlikely that the bark edge will withstand your central heating and will come off easily, you could always glue it back on when it falls off.
Looking forward to seeing some pics.
 
crofter said:
Wax on it's own would not be durable enough to withstand cups etc, any moisture at all and you would get ring marks, you need to seal the wood first using a varnish or other wood seal and then wax over the top.
It's highly unlikely that the bark edge will withstand your central heating and will come off easily, you could always glue it back on when it falls off.
Looking forward to seeing some pics.
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Thanks. I'm going to B&Q tomorrow because the mrs wants a stupid lamp that looks like something from Ann Summers. I''l lose her somewhere and have a look to see what's best to use.

I've made a slight overhang on the actual desk top so if the bark does fall off and won't stick together nicely I can just cut and plane that edge so it looks neat again.
 
If you wet the surface- just water or spit! - you'll see what the effect of varnishing will do to the colour. It looks quite dark.
I'd treat it with three coats of varnish all around. It makes for a very hard wearing surface. I've fitted various bathroom worktops this way.
I've also fitted beech block and oak kitchen worktops. The usual finishing method is three coats of oil, rubbed down between coats. The surface doesn't mark after spills- well, as long as you soak it up. I would suggest you use a coaster if you are going to put cups/drinks on the surface.

Edit: BTW, you could put one coat on but you'll just have to varnish it again in a few months.
 
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In the past I've just given bare finished wood a couple of coats of shellac and left it at that or other times used a melamine lacquer on top. I find this way beats your oil based varnish depending on how you use it.
 
Polyurethane varnish as per the instructions on the tin WRT coat numbers etc.. Not sure how long the bark will stay on but you could try injecting some wood glue every inch or 2 along the length through small holes in an attempt to keep it stuck on - easy enough to plane/sand off at a later date if it's too uncomfortable or gets tatty. Ken's suggestion of oil is great for hardwoods but softwoods really need more protection IMO. The pine will darken where exposed to sunlight over time so again IMO, best to leave the antiquing to nature rather than to use the antique staining varnishes.
 
crofter said:
You must seal the wood all round,top and bottom or the central heating will warp or bow the timber, using natural materials and central heating don't go well together.
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realistically speaking central heating will bow/move the wood anyway -its moisture variations , so even if the wood is bone dry it will still move as the relative himidity in the house goes up and down.

the reason you need to do both sides is that if you only seal the top surface you change the moisture gradient and you'll probably get splitting as well

theres some good woodwork forums if you want the full sp , including

http://www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk/index.php
http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk
and www.woodworkuk.co.uk
 
big soft moose said:
realistically speaking central heating will bow/move the wood anyway -its moisture variations , so even if the wood is bone dry it will still move as the relative himidity in the house goes up and down.

the reason you need to do both sides is that if you only seal the top surface you change the moisture gradient and you'll probably get splitting as well

theres some good woodwork forums if you want the full sp , including

http://www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk/index.php
http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk
and www.woodworkuk.co.uk
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Thanks but I've been making furniture for nearly 40 years, I know full well the effect that central heating can have on this material.
 
Thanks all.

I know what you lot mean about the central heating causing bowing, splitting etc, so instead of making it out of big sheets I've made each section of the desk out of 80mm strips...I don't know the technical term but the grain goes in different directions so stop it warping. It's good timber I used from a reputable supplier so it should be ok.

I've decided to go with a varnish though, not really what I wanted to do after having a look at Danish oil, but the varnish will make it match everything else in my room. Plus my old man has gallons of the stuff from his boat building days.

I'm currently down in Wales just now so I'll post some pictures when I get home at the weekend (y)

crofter said:
Thanks but I've been making furniture for nearly 40 years, I know full well the effect that central heating can have on this material.
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After having a taste of making my first bit of furniture I must say I've gotten the bug now and it won't be the last. I'm no professional but I've always like working with wood and I was always a swat in school when it came to craft class. I was doing a joinery apprenticeship for just over a year until the company went bust but I much preferred the more fiddly bits.
 
crofter said:
Thanks but I've been making furniture for nearly 40 years, I know full well the effect that central heating can have on this material.
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I didnt mean you, i meant for the OP
 
CaveDweller said:
Thanks all.

I know what you lot mean about the central heating causing bowing, splitting etc, so instead of making it out of big sheets I've made each section of the desk out of 80mm strips...I don't know the technical term but the grain goes in different directions so stop it warping. It's good timber I used from a reputable supplier so it should be ok.
.
Click to expand...

Probably wise - except that although you can stop it cupping by alternating grain direction, it will still expand and contract accross the grain with moisture variations, so if you try to force it not to move its likely to split instead - this is why old fashioned kitchen tables had bread board ends to allow for growth and shrinkage as moisture content varied.

Finish wise its a matter of personal taste - personally I hate varnish, not least because itds a b*****d to avoid drips and hairs and such - I like wax over sanding sealer. (although i'm primarily a turner and a carver - I only make flat stuff under protest ).

I agree with crofter that its highly unlikely that the bark edge will stay on - personally i'd take it off and clean up the wood under it with a wire brush and then some wire wool before finishing it the same as the rest - otherwise you will forever be gluing bits of bark back on
 
some good advice in here. I've just built a headboard for my bed and trying to figure out how to finish/seal it. The wife is dead against it being "shiny" and wants it to remain looking rustic but I'm aware that untreated and left as "bare" wood its more likely to not last as long or split etc etc. Is there something I can put on that will keep it looking natural and will protect it without making it shiny? Sorry to sound daft :D
 
Plenty of good waxes around, of varying colours, that aren't `shiny`.
Whatever you use though might need to be hard-wearing :D
 
waxes or oils are the answer to a non shiny finish - or just sand the wood down and leave it bare (it doesnt sound like there'll be an issue with fluid staining ;) )
 
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