Mamiya Medium Format owners group

I wish I could tell you, but I can't remember! It's definitely somewhere in the UK because I've not been outside the UK with the RZ67. I have the same problem with most of my tree photos, although I can usually say whether it's England or Scotland. My educated guess though is that it's the New Forest.
 
I've put 4 rolls through the 645AFD so far, the results certainly look nice! Will be getting a few scanned over the next couple of weeks and will get them online ASAP!
 
Is 645 worth it? That's the question I keep coming back to, I've been offered a 645 plus 3 lenses (including the 1.9), 2 backs, winder etc for £400. I'm on the fence as have it stuck in my head that MF should be 6x6, and 645 is just like 35mm but with double the neg size, however less of the MF look than 6x6. Perhaps its something to do with equivalent focal lengths and filling the frame vs subject distance. Hard to put my finger on why I'm not buying it :). Perhaps the size tradeoff vs results isn't the same step up from 35mm vs 6x6. Does anyone else get that impression?
 
jojo90 said:
Is 645 worth it? That's the question I keep coming back to, I've been offered a 645 plus 3 lenses (including the 1.9), 2 backs, winder etc for £400. I'm on the fence as have it stuck in my head that MF should be 6x6, and 645 is just like 35mm but with double the neg size, however less of the MF look than 6x6. Perhaps its something to do with equivalent focal lengths and filling the frame vs subject distance. Hard to put my finger on why I'm not buying it :). Perhaps the size tradeoff vs results isn't the same step up from 35mm vs 6x6. Does anyone else get that impression?
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It depends what you intend to do with your photos. If you're not going to crop, then 6x6cm offers a larger negative. If you prefer waist level finders, then 6x6cm is easier to use as the format doesn't require rotation. Many 6x6cm cameras can also shoot both formats.

That said, the Contax 645 and its 80mm f/2 lens, for instance, are capable of stunning results in 6x4.5 that definitely have that medium format look. I imagine the Mamiya 80mm f/1.9 lens can produce something similar and the extra stop of light compared to most standard lenses for 6x6cm is quite welcome.

I personally prefer 6x6cm, but I would consider using 6x4.5 under certain circumstances. The f/1.9 lens might constitute one such circumstance.
 
Printing 6x6 is a ball ache if you're anal about wasteage, nothin gets up my nose more than cutting 4 inches off a 12 x 16 sheet of paper for a square 12 x 12.
Sometimes I just crop a 6x6 so it fits 8x10, it always cocks composition up and it leaves me wondering why I didn't just shoot 645 in the first flippin place.
You wanna keep it large.....shoot 6x9, but the enlarger has to get bigger a lots more expensive.
Scanning 6x9 is easy on a flatbed, dedicated scanners are a bit thin on the ground and its only 8 shots on 120.

I think the shape, square or oblong is a bigger decision than physical size, the shape defines the boundaries through which you compose, 645 is plenty big enough for most things.
 
...and the world is full of rectangles that you see ;) mind you I see a lot of sq oxo cubes as I use em in a drink. :D
 
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Looking advice please from youse Mamiya medium format shooters;

Possibly looking to get back into a 6x7 120 neg again after twenty years of not owning a RB67 ProSD.

Question is, which 67 system is it best to get back into? A RZ67 or RB67?

It'll be mainly for landscape photography.

Regards;
Peter
Scotland
 
Either are great cameras. In extreme situations I think I'd prefer the rb since it's fully mechanical but the RZ does have some interes features and slight better lenses.

What's your budget? That's the bigger factor.
 
At that budget I think you'd be looking at an RB ... an RZ with lens and film back is more likely £400 +

I have an RZ67 which I love, but to be honest if I was starting again I would be tempted to go for the all-manual approach of the RB. For example, I have a metering prism but it is unreliable, I think because the electrical contacts between the prism and the body don't work properly. Also, having your battery go flat in the Hebrides is a pain ... I now carry about four spare batteries.
 
If you're happy to not have a built in meter, I'd go RB67. I have both; and as I've said before on this forum the mirror lock up on the RZ67 really annoys me. I prefer to lock up the mirror and wait for the clouds to move round, the wind to drop, and the generally have everything just right. With the RZ67 I have 60 seconds for everything to fall into place, because that's all the time it allows me between activating the lock up and releasing the shutter. I think it's to do with saving the battery...

The RZ67 has advantages, but none that I'm bothered about.
 
Thanks for that info.

Hmmm decisions decisions............(?)

I once owned a brand new Mamiya RB67 ProSD over twenty years ago and loved it. Should have held onto it.
But life moves on and you sell things for other bits n' pieces.

I'm so outta touch with regards to b/w & colour film processing of who to use quality wise etc, and you have digital scanning of the 120 neg which I know nothing about. I don't posess a scanner either.
I've around 35/40 rolls of 120 film cooling in my fridge buy no camera, fantastic eh. Hmmm Fuji Velvia, nice.


Regards;
Peter
Central Scotland
 
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Its an easy decision, buy a lovely medium format camera and an Epson V500 scanner, shoot some 120, scan it and show us the results..... Simples.....

What about a TLR? A Mamiya C330 with the 80mm lens can be picked up for about £150. A lot smaller and lighter than the RB/RZ and the IQ is stunning. Just a suggestion.
 
I saw your ad and was tempted...

One point that did occur to me when I saw you preferred 6x7 to 6x6 was to wonder if it was the shape or the size? The reason being that there is a 6x8 (motorised) back for the RB67; I don't know if the RZ67 has similar. Hence you could get a slightly larger negative with an RB67.
 
StephenM said:
The RZ67 has advantages, but none that I'm bothered about.
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Just to balance things out, here are a few significant advantages to the RZ67:
  • Electronic timing means more reliable and more accurate shutter speeds that don't vary between lenses
  • The 110mm f/2.8 lens (One of the biggest advantages!)
  • The ability to use a selection of both RZ and RB lenses and accessories
  • Some models have half-stop shutter speeds
  • It's lighter
  • You could fit an RZ67 with a digital back (not important to me, but maybe to others)
This list is not exhaustive, just a few things off the top of my head.

Andysnap said:
Its an easy decision, buy a lovely medium format camera and an Epson V500 scanner, shoot some 120, scan it and show us the results..... Simples.....
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Again, to provide an alternative viewpoint, I don't really find a home scanner a great investment with regard to time or money for shooting colour negative. Yeah, I can save a lot of money scanning my own colour film, but it takes forever and the colours just aren't even close to what a pro lab can achieve.

If I were only shooting black and white, then I think home scanning is a more attractive option.

StephenM said:
I saw your ad and was tempted...

One point that did occur to me when I saw you preferred 6x7 to 6x6 was to wonder if it was the shape or the size? The reason being that there is a 6x8 (motorised) back for the RB67; I don't know if the RZ67 has similar. Hence you could get a slightly larger negative with an RB67.
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To my knowledge, the 6x8 back only works in portrait orientation, so its utility for most folks is quite limited.
 
Any else use the RB67 50mm -C do you find it flares like a holga in JJ Abrams Movie?
 
steveo_mcg said:
Any else use the RB67 50mm -C do you find it flares like a holga in JJ Abrams Movie?
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I haven't noticed much flare, I generally have a filter holder on the 50mm so it probably cuts some of it down though.
I've had good results with one of the rubber collapsible lens hoods as an alternative.
 
robhooley167 said:
I haven't noticed much flare, I generally have a filter holder on the 50mm so it probably cuts some of it down though.
I've had good results with one of the rubber collapsible lens hoods as an alternative.
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Ah, I forgot I had a hood mainly becuase I thought it was for the 65 but noticed this morning that it has 50mm stamped on the side too. I'll try that next time though it does appear from the web that there are some less good examples in circulation so I hope mine isn't just duff!
 
I've good news, recently won an ebay bid on an excellent condition Mamiya RZ 67 Pro II with waste level finder and 120 back, just need to look for a clean RZ 110mm f/2.8 lens next.

Over the moon.

(pete)
 
Thanks Kevin.

Which RZ lenses would you recommend for the RZ system? Is there much difference between the 65 and 50? And which RZ portrait lens would you suggest?

Thanks;
pete
 
.
 
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macvisual said:
Thanks Kevin.

Which RZ lenses would you recommend for the RZ system? Is there much difference between the 65 and 50? And which RZ portrait lens would you suggest?

Thanks;
pete
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My main interest is landscape and still life so my needs might not be the same as yours.
I have the 50mm, 65mm, 110mm, and 180mm lenses, and both extension tubes.
The 35mm equivalent focal lengths of these lenses are 26mm, 33mm, 57mm, and 93mm.

I used to have the 250mm lens, but this was too long for my needs so I traded it in at Ffordes for the 180mm.

I've never heard anyone say that any of the Mamiya lenses are less than very good, although the 110mm/f2.8 does have a particular reputation for image quality.
The 90mm and 127mm lenses are, I think, too close in focal length to the 110 to be worthwhile for users who already have the 110mm, and they have smaller maximum apertures.

I very rarely use the 180mm lens, although I imagine that would be a very effective lens for head-and-shoulder portraits.

If I could only have one wide angle lens to use alongside the 110, I would choose the 50mm - indeed they were the two lenses I chose to take for a country and coastal walk yesterday.
 
Thanks Kevin, very informative info there, appreciated. I'll start by trying to find a clean/ex condition RZ 110mm f/2.8 lens, then probably look at buying the RZ 50mm next, I'm guessing the equivalent 26mm is a great lens length for landscapes captures etc....(?).
I also need to source a couple of extra RZ 120 film backs, always handy to have a variety/selection of films loaded when out shooting landscape stuff, or anything else that might turn up.

Do you use a handheld light meter Kevin? When I last owned a RB67 ProSD about 20yrs ago I then had a Minolta Autometer 4F, are these still a decent light meter or is the Sekonic meters more advanced I wonder? What do you use as a light meter?

Sorry for all the questions.......thanks.

Regards;
Pete
 
I have two working light meters, a Sekonic Digitalmaster L758D and a Sekonic Twinmate L208.

The L758D is perhaps rather over the top, and costs £300+, but I decided to treat myself after going through a series of second-hand meters which couldn't be relied upon. I've never used a Minolta meter.

The Twinmate L208 is compact and handy but it doesn't measure very low light levels as well as the L758. I could do without it but having a spare meter is reassuring.

The L758 does just about everything and measures down to F128 which is handy for pinholes in dark cathedrals (about 15 minutes exposure with reciprocity !). The sensitivity range goes down to ISO3 which is handy when using infra-red film with an R72 filter.

If you think you might use flash for portraits then it can measure multiple flashes fired wirelessly or with cords ... more features than I am likely to ever need.

I usually carry two 120 backs, one with with colour and one with B&W film.
 
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I prefer a spot meter, I forget the brand but they go for about £60 on ebay (used).

Like Kevin I carry two backs one colour one b&w but I have a third in the house so if I want to try something or do some handheld stuff I can put a different film in the other back. Usually back 1 has fp4 or neopan in it depending on what I'm shooting, back 2 gets Velvia, provia, or Porta again depending on what I'm doing, leaving back three for exotic or faster film or if I have something I want to use a whole roll exploring and don't want to split across two rolls.
 
Thanks Steven;

Three RZ67 120 film backs seems the way forward alright...! Does anyone know if there's much difference between the RZ 50mm compared to the RZ 50mm 'ULD' version I wonder?

I've just did a deal on an excellent condition RZ67 180mm f/4.5 portrait lens.

Thanks;
Peter
 
Today I met up locally with a seller of an excellent condition Z 180mm f4.5 W-N portrait lens and bought it, wOw, such a beast of a thing size wise, I'd forgot how chunky (and well made) these Mamiya lenses actually are, stunning!
As the seller had stated the lens condition was 9.5 outta 10, immaculate both on the barrel and front/rear glass! Both lens caps and original Mamiya rubber lens hood. Fantastic.

My recent purchase of a RZ67 Pro II arrives tomorrow, so still on the search for a Z 110mm f/2.8 or a 50mm lens. Really looking forward to shooting with this quality medium format camera. I've deffo got the 6x7 bug.


:)
 
I recently bought a used RZ67 Pro II body from eBay, it arrived yesterday and found it to be faulty in a few places (faulty focus bellows etc), not as described in advert, so it was quickly returned today to the seller, not a happy bunny!

But by luck, I'd recently bought a mint Mamiya Z 180mm f4.5 portrait lens from a local chap a few days ago and he decided to sell me his Mamiya RZ67 Pro1 kit, in really excellent condition, I'd say 9.5 out of 10. here's a photo of it;


Mamiya RZ67 by Peter McCullough Photography, on Flickr

It came with these many extras;

2x 120 film backs - Polaroid back - waist level finder - AE Prism finder (spot/average metering) - Mamiya Sekor Z 110mm f/2.8 lens (mint) - 22 rolls of mixed fresh 120 film (colour/b-w) - dedicated Mamiya 'L' grip (which fires shutter) - 2x spare camera batteries - extra front/rear lens caps - spare viewing screen - 77mm yellow filter for shooting b/w film.

I'm over the moon to say the least. The condition of everything is immaculate.
 
macvisual said:
I recently bought a used RZ67 Pro II body from eBay, it arrived yesterday and found it to be faulty in a few places (faulty focus bellows etc), not as described in advert, so it was quickly returned today to the seller, not a happy bunny!

But by luck, I'd recently bought a mint Mamiya Z 180mm f4.5 portrait lens from a local chap a few days ago and he decided to sell me his Mamiya RZ67 Pro1 kit, in really excellent condition, I'd say 9.5 out of 10. here's a photo of it;


Mamiya RZ67 by Peter McCullough Photography, on Flickr

It came with these many extras;

2x 120 film backs - Polaroid back - waist level finder - AE Prism finder (spot/average metering) - Mamiya Sekor Z 110mm f/2.8 lens (mint) - 22 rolls of mixed fresh 120 film (colour/b-w) - dedicated Mamiya 'L' grip (which fires shutter) - 2x spare camera batteries - extra front/rear lens caps - spare viewing screen - 77mm yellow filter for shooting b/w film.

I'm over the moon to say the least. The condition of everything is immaculate.
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Looks like a sweet deal Peter. Enjoy.
 
Can any RB67/RZ67 owners recommend any camera bags that you could store a body and three lenses/3x 120 backs/prism finder/film in etc....? What about an aluminium box.....any good? Any advice welcome.

Thanks;
pete
 
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macvisual said:
Can any RB67/RZ67 owners recommend any camera bags that you could store a body and three lenses/3x 120 backs/prism finder/film in etc....? What about an aluminium box.....any good? Any advice welcome.

Thanks;
pete
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I've been using a Lowepro Pro-Runner 350 for a RB67 with 3 backs and two lenses, a 5D mark2 with lenses and other associated gubbins including film, light meter and the like. It's a fairly compact bag so i re-arranged the dividers somewhat to get a better fit.
 
If it's a matter of storage, I use a Peli case which holds my RZ67 with 110mm lens attached, a couple of other lenses (50mm and 75mm shift), extra back, exposure meter, lens cloths and pens, cable release, filters etc. etc. It's easy to put in the car boot for travelling. If I'm not working from the boot, I have a Loewpro backpack (almost certainly discontinued years ago) which takes the camera and lens (in practice I only use one lens, the 110) and I can fit a 5x4, darkslides and focusing cloth in the top. With my (full) Billingham waistcoat, I have everything I need.
 
Thanks for those replies regards storage with my RZ67, appreciated.


Sorry, another short question whilst I'm here;
I've a Polaroid back loaded with FP100C, I know it's a 100asa film speed, for example if I load the RZ with say 400asa film speed (HP5 or Portra 400) does the FP100C Polaroid 100asa film just give you a rough idea of exposure at it's film 100asa film speed ?
 
yes, but you can calc what to change in your head

so say 5.6 at 100 iso is 60th
200 iso would be 125th
400 iso would be 250th

a light meter is a good investment tho
 
Does any one know if they made a K/L lens in 50mm? I can't see any on the usual suspects and I've decided I need more flare suppression than I get with my original 65mm or my C 50mm. So I'm trying to decide between the 65 K/L or a different 50mm and trying to work out if its just my lens that flares so badly.
 
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