Beginner Choosing a cheap lens for landscape photos

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Helloo!

I just got my hands on a Nikon D5300, and Im pretty new to photography. I have always wanted to shoot landscapes, and I would need some advice choosing a lens that works well whit that, and yeah as cheep as possible. Im a beginner so i wont be spending 1000 on a lens just yet.

Any help will be appreciated!
 
Tokina 11-16mm mii is a great lens for landscape can be bought for around 250-300 second hand.
 
Use the lens that came with the camera, I am guessing the standard kit lens will get you going as 18-55mm is a OK sort of range for landscapes.

The quality of the lens will also be OK if you use an aperture of F8 or F11 and it will be cheap too.
 
Any lens is a landscape lens, the kits lens is almost always good enough to start with until you know what you want to do differently.
 
Siggy 10-20 would be a great starter. The Tokina 11-16 is regarded as better but not as versatile and you would need the mk2 version preferably as your body has no built in AF motor.
I've had both and prefer the Tokina but mines the mk1 version. The Siggy sometimes has a soft left side so that's something to watch for. My first Siggy was soft but the one I've just given to my lad is ok (although it looks like it's fallen down a mountain - it's pretty bullet proof).
But as mentioned before, you can use any lens for landscape work. Just depends if you want wide shots or not.
 
Any lens is a landscape lens, the kits lens is almost always good enough to start with until you know what you want to do differently.
He speaks wisely.
 
Thanks to all for the answers! Currently i only have the kit lenses 18-55mm and 35mm. I can porbably get a samyag 8mm fish eye second hand from a friend for a 100€, do you guys think that would be good?
 
Thanks to all for the answers! Currently i only have the kit lenses 18-55mm and 35mm. I can porbably get a samyag 8mm fish eye second hand from a friend for a 100€, do you guys think that would be good?
Have you seen any landscape photos taken with that lens? Are they the type of photo you want to be taking?

If you haven't there will be examples on Flickr, there's almost certainly a Group dedicated to that lens.
 
Thanks to all for the answers! Currently i only have the kit lenses 18-55mm and 35mm. I can porbably get a samyag 8mm fish eye second hand from a friend for a 100€, do you guys think that would be good?

Fisheye is a one trick pony - if thats what you want to take, great , but its not a lens thats going to be very versatile for landscape work

as suggested higher up just use your 18-55 , but if you feel you must have another wider lens you'd be better off with a 10-20 , or 11-16 or 12-24 (or the samyang 14mm). - personally if I only had those two lenses though my next purchase would be something longer as there are times even in landscape when 55 just isnt long enough.
 
Thanks to all for the answers! Currently i only have the kit lenses 18-55mm and 35mm. I can porbably get a samyag 8mm fish eye second hand from a friend for a 100€, do you guys think that would be good?

Fisheyes are very specialised and might not suit you.... how many landscape shots have you taken with the 18-55 so far?
 
Stick with what you have. As a beginner, you'll find that having to decide which lens to use adds an extra complication that you don't need; or, if you automatically use a new (wider) lens you'll have restricted what you can show/how you can show it before you've even considered the subject.

My big problem with the "use a wide angle lens for landscape" is that it is the concluding step of a long chain of reasoning that has a dubious starting axiom; and it forces the photographer to see the landscape in a particular way that might not be either the best for the subject, or the way that the photographer "natively" sees things.

My own personal choice for landscape for the way I see things is a standard or slightly longer lens.
 
The 18-55 is fine.
When all we had was film, chasing 'wider' lenses for landscapes had more validity; SLR's came with a 'normal angle' 50 on them, and usually a fat one, which isn't all that important for landscapes when you usually want a tighter aperture for greatest DoF and are focusing close to infinity. 'Compacts' usually came with a fixed 35mm 'mild wide angle', and many landscape photographers used them, rather than lug a hefty SLR and a bag of glass about! Self included. Amused me walking up the Malverns with no more than my diddy Olympus XA2 and a table-top tripod in my pocket; and a chap panting up the hill with 'all the gear', commenting that 'really' needed a 'sturdy' tripod, and a 'proper' camera I could put a remote release cable on?! However...To get that bit 'extra' in the frame, a 28 was 'nice', and there was a vogue for 28mm lens compacts in the '90's, but that was about as wide as you could often get; 24 or even 22mm wides were about as wide as you could get and were rather darn expensive! I chanced on a 12mm fish (equv of an 8mm on APS-C digital).. had a lot of fun with that lens, but it is NOT I repeat NOT a super-wide angle! Nor is it a full-fish. Its a bit neither fish-nor

Fish are Fish NOT super-Wide-Angles.

A full fish gives you a round image in the middle of the frame with 180 degree field of view in both planes.; 8mm can just about get there on full frame, but on APS-C Digi you have to get down to the 4.5mm. This gives a number of issues with full-fish photo's that start with only using about half the frame, and a large chunk of that suffering gross distortion at the edges; and they make the subject TINY in the viewfinder... most of which is black, so composition, is actually quite tricky, spotting distracting detail and levelling to control that distortion, ad then, you have a wobbly 'fish effect' photo;
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THAT is the sort of thing you get. Note flare at the top; its almost possible to avoid with 180 FoV. Observe how large close subjects are, and how quickly they get small into the middle distance, as well as the barrel distortion round the edges. This isn't a 'land-scape'.Take out the people that are the subject of this shot, and you have a HUGE expanse of frame filled with the grass at your feet, a HUGE expanse of sky, and err... yeah, there MIGHT be a little bit of lands-scape in the middle there some-where... and if you crop that out? You might as well have shot that with the 18-55 at around the 24 mark, and spread it over all the cameras pixel sensors, rather than just a fifth of them! Fish are Fish, not SWA!

8mm on an APS-C, like the 12 I used on film, is less 'fishy', and a little easier to work with; you get a corner masked / vignetted 'crop' from the middle of that circle, that might have 170 deg FoV diagonally, about 150 or so from side to side; but the same issues are still there, and its still fish, not SWA, and absolutely no substitute. Especially now that SWA are that much more readily available and affordable. If you want SWA the buy a SWA not a fish! If you want fish, fine, buy fish, just be aware, they ent and never will be a SWA and are not a particularly suitable lens for classic big Landscape photography.

Meanwhile, I offer caution on SWA lenses even. 18mm of modern Digi lens is about 27mm FF equiv; a tad wider than the 28/29mm wides that were as wide as we could usually get for film, without breaking the bank.And MORE than wide enough for most. Nice 'trick' of the 18-55 is that you can zoom in and 'scan' the scene to 'inspect' far detail a tad more easily before racking out to compose the 'wide' shot, and this is even more important these days. Wider you go, more scenery you pack in your landscape,more you are likely to struggle to exclude ugly or distracting features and detail. And You NEED that discipline to check the full frame when composing, far more than you need anther lens!; "North-South-East-West,Check the Corners then the rest!" I thought I was reasonably diligent in that regard, but digitising my old 35mm film, has shown I wasn't as diligent as I thought! I blame view-finder masking, and commercial print 'cropping' from 2x3 negative proportions to 7x5 print paper proportion, and now looking at the full frame on the neg, B-U-T, I still captured a lot of stuff I didn't really want. And in our modern digital era there's a HECK of a lot more stuff you probably don't want, than stuff you do! Far more folk out and about in the countryside to clutter your picture, for starters; and with them, their cars and push-bikes and prams and picnic bags and 'stuff', then masts for their mobile 'phones, wind turbines, power lines, and other man-made structures of all sorts, from polythene green-houses to steel-frame barns! And its ALL brightly coloured, competing for attention.

This is all simply avoided, by NOT being so greedy to go so wide to start with, in Landscape photo, and not thinking that you have to have so much real-estate in the frame, and that more Land makes better Land-Scape.Be selective; This is where SWA and maybe fish might start to work for rather than against you; when you DON'T have big landscape to work in; you are working in smaller spaces, urban landscapes where you are close up to your subjects and a SWA is the only way to get it all in frame, but, they are still tricky to work with; detail is small, distortion an issue, and you still have to have that 'diligence' to fully assess everything you are trying to pack in the frame.; and working with the 'kit' and finding where you are hitting the buffers of its capability and fiding ways of working within and around them, will take you a lot further than another bit of glass and plastic, that WONT d it all for you.
 
Thanks to all for the answers! Currently i only have the kit lenses 18-55mm and 35mm. I can porbably get a samyag 8mm fish eye second hand from a friend for a 100€, do you guys think that would be good?

As has been said, fisheyes aren't ideal for landscapes. Possibly just about OK for snapping small end use panoramas in one shot if you can get the horizon running through the centre of the image to avoid it curving. For 70 quid or so though, a fisheye will be a lot of fun for its one trick!
 
For 70 quid or so though, a fisheye will be a lot of fun for its one trick!
The Samyang 8mm can be had for about £160ish new if you hunt about.. but yeah, £70 S/H is still a pretty good price for one, seem to more often go for around the £100 mark.
It's a non electric lens, though; its manual focus (not that fish need much focusing; such a short focal length gives huge DoF that makes them almost focus free for anything beyond arms length! My old Sigma/Panomar 12 actually has no focus control at all!) And aperture is set on the lens, and not coupled to the camera, so if you 'open up' to see what you are composing on in the viewfinder, you'll likely have to manually 'stop-down' to desired taking aperture before pressing the shutter; the camera wont do it for you, and likely that it also wont 'meter' without the aperture data, so you'll have to Chimp it or meter with another lens, and make appropriate settings in 'manual', making it more of a 'faff' to use, and possibly extricable so, if if you have never used older fully manual cameras in this way.
As a toe in the 'fish-tank' water, this appears to be the main 'complaint' with the cheaper fish-eyes, on modern cameras, and often what disenchants many users, who get frustrated by these 'quirks' and so never really get to grips with them or enjoy using them, I suspect.

BUT they can be a lot of fun, and can be used to great effect, without it necessarily being all about the 'fish' effect.... bit 'harsh' to dismiss them as a one trick dog only good for doing some hall of mirror big nose shots in folks faces and the like!

11127639_986515051373412_8499876889311970611_n.jpg

This is 'a bit fishy', and one of the nicer examples from a set at a classic bike show earlier this year, where that huge FoV, close focus and enormous DoF has let me get up close on the novel detail, of the 'alternate' steering & suspension system of this Bimota Tesi; the 'distortion' of the fish-eye or more correctly, the lack of 'rectilinear-correction' trying to make circles square, means that the front wheel and brake disk is actually LESS distorted and more 'round' like it should be than had I used a rectilinear lens this close up; which I couldn't have done, and included the whole bike or any setting, in the restricted space around the subject.
It has been digi-diddled a bit in post; a fish-eye hemi plug-in has put a little rectilinear correction on the vertical axis, before cropping to leave 'just' a little vignetting at the edges, that could have been a tad tighter, excluding the obviously bowed carpet edge as well, to leave a more 'usual' image, that I couldn't have got with a rectilinear lens, and where 'pano-sttching' would likely have made an utter hash of it
You can make them work for you to take more 'normal' pictures with them! But, yeah, not something you'd do all that often.
 
OP go on Flickr and search Nikon 18-55mm landscapes, I think you will see that the 18-55mm is perfectly adequate :)
 
Mike, IIRC the Samyang in Nikon fit (the OP's system) does have electronic aperture control (or reporting - not sure of the extent of its automation). I have the Sigma 8mm which is fully automatic (if wanted!), although f/8 does give enough DoF to make focussing all but redundant! If I want straight lines anywhere but still need a wide angle, I use the Sigma 12-24.
 
When I first started with my original Nikon all I had was the kit lens, and it is perfectly capable when used at typical landscape apertures. As said above, is there anything that the kit lens does not do that you want / need it to? If not then you may be better off holding off for a little while until you know more about what you need or what the kit lens is not giving you. I did love my Sigma 10-20 when I got one eventually but 10mm is reallllllly wide, and if you end up using the 20mm end then you already have that focal length with the kit lens.
 
As above, typical landscape photography can be done with very basic equipment. To the point where the idiots who suggest a camera phone is all you need, will prove it by linking to great landscapes shot with phones.

The kit lens will do a great job (so long as you understand how to shoot them)
 
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