Best setup to shoot watches

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Hello!

I am currently taking care of the photography for the startup I'm working for, we mainly take pictures of luxury watches, and I've been asked to improve our setup.
At the moment I'm using:

Nikon D7200
18-55mm
2x Limelite Mosaic 72 Power LEDs
A portable studio box


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with these settings:

Shutter speed: 1/40 - 1/60
ƒ 16
White Balance: AUTO 1
ISO: 2000 - 3000


Now, they've asked me to improve the setup, and asked to improve clarity and to avoid the reflexes on the watches dial:

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In doing that I thought to get a 24-120mm to improve the quality of the lens, and to be able to take pictures from further away, also thought to get rid of the LEDs and get two sb700, but since the box is very small and the watch is very close to the lights small I haven't really found a way to avoid the reflections.

Any suggestion on the setup, and on how to avoid reflections will be very appreciated, Please keep in mind though that we need to be mobile, since we go to people's house to take the photos, and travel a lot with the equipment.

Thanks to everyone who will take time to read this,

Iary
 
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I do not shoot studio work and someone more informed will be along soon but from the looks of it you have all you need to produce decent product images so don't spend more on gear. It's user error why you're not getting the results you wish. By the looks you're letting the camera meter the exposure.
 
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Get hold of a copy of Light Science and magic (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Light-Scie...77057&sr=1-1&keywords=light+science+and+magic), it should give you the information to work out what you need to change to get the results you need.
(I'm still in the process of reading it, far enough through to know it has what you need, not far enough to directly answer :))
Thanks for the info, but I don't have time to read a whole book ahahaha hope someone can advice me directly, but thank you (y)


I do not shoot studio work and someone more informed will be along soon but from the looks of it you have all you need to produce decent product images so don't spend more on gear. It's user error why you're not getting the results you wish. By the looks you're letting the camera meter the exposure.

They are looking for a quality improvement and we have to say that more expensive lenses than 18-55 have better quality lenses and therefore will affect the quality, I don't really think we need lights improvements, but It's not my setup, not my money, if they want to spend, I will go for it, just want to buy the best possible equip for their needs, reflections and clarity, that's what they want to improve.
 
Thanks for the info, but I don't have time to read a whole book ahahaha hope someone can advice me directly, but thank you (y)




They are looking for a quality improvement and we have to say that more expensive lenses than 18-55 have better quality lenses and therefore will affect the quality, I don't really think we need lights improvements, but It's not my setup, not my money, if they want to spend, I will go for it, just want to buy the best possible equip for their needs, reflections and clarity, that's what they want to improve.
That shot technique is wrong it doesn't matter how big and expensive the lens they buy is it will still come out the same as this one really bad. I've owned this lens its not the best but its good enough for product photography the image softness it down to technique again.
 
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If you're having to shoot at ISO2000-3000, your lights aren't putting out enough light. Whilst you're getting a result, the noise on the final image will be very visible (for example on the faces). Are the LEDs you're using adjustable? You could turn one down a little if they are to give some more interesting lighting instead of flat across the frame. Also, as you're using constant lighting you can see the effect they're having immediately so just move the lights around while watching via liveview until you find a happy balance between exposure and reflections.

it may also be worth holding a piece of white paper/card over the top of the camera, facing into the lightbox to reflect any stray light back onto the front of teh watches.
 
Also, your white balance is off, the background should be pure white (through lighting and WB) rather than grey as it is now. Are you shooting in RAW format so you can correct it afterwards if you're not correcting it before shooting?
 
If you're having to shoot at ISO2000-3000, your lights aren't putting out enough light. Whilst you're getting a result, the noise on the final image will be very visible (for example on the faces). Are the LEDs you're using adjustable? You could turn one down a little if they are to give some more interesting lighting instead of flat across the frame. Also, as you're using constant lighting you can see the effect they're having immediately so just move the lights around while watching via liveview until you find a happy balance between exposure and reflections.

it may also be worth holding a piece of white paper/card over the top of the camera, facing into the lightbox to reflect any stray light back onto the front of teh watches.

I know that's why I wanted to improve to two sb700 rather then the LEDs
 
Strikes me you need more diffuse light. It is light that causes the reflections and shadows so something that will light the whole thing all round (to avoid any shadows) and more diffused light (to avoid reflections). I don't know the details of the lights you are using, is it possible to 'turn them down' and increase exposure to compensate.

Also it may be worth fiddling around with your overall exposure. Lenses never work at their best wide open or closed (certainly not cheaper ones) so probably no need for f16, you don't need great depth of focus; I do agree though that more kit won't help, just experiment for 30 minutes. I can't see that this will be solved with a more expensive lens.

Sorry I can't tell you exactly what to do, these are just my thoughts.
 
Strikes me you need more diffuse light. It is light that causes the reflections and shadows so something that will light the whole thing all round (to avoid any shadows) and more diffused light (to avoid reflections). I don't know the details of the lights you are using, is it possible to 'turn them down' and increase exposure to compensate.

Also it may be worth fiddling around with your overall exposure. Lenses never work at their best wide open or closed (certainly not cheaper ones) so probably no need for f16, you don't need great depth of focus; I do agree though that more kit won't help, just experiment for 30 minutes. I can't see that this will be solved with a more expensive lens.

Sorry I can't tell you exactly what to do, these are just my thoughts.
Yes, you can turn them down, but then I would need a higher ISO and there would be too much noise in the picture, which is what I am trying to void
 
Yes, you can turn them down, but then I would need a higher ISO and there would be too much noise in the picture, which is what I am trying to void
You need to set it in manual with a bigger aperture and slower shutter speed and set the iso at 100. Switch vr off but the camera in live view on and adjust the shutter speed to you're happy with the live view results.
 
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Polariser will help reduce the reflections. As said above, reduce the ISO. I assume you are shooting RAW, if so, sharpen/clarity in PS/LR should make it ping
 
how about increasing the aperture to maybe 5.6? You don't need to be using be using f16, that is compromising your other settings and forcing you to use a high ISO and low shutter speed.

Also you should manually adjust your white balance and see if you can get to white, not grey.
 
how about increasing the aperture to maybe 5.6? You don't need to be using be using f16, that is compromising your other settings and forcing you to use a high ISO and low shutter speed.

Also you should manually adjust your white balance and see if you can get to white, not grey.

I can try, but I need the whole watch to be in focus, not only the dial, will 5.6 be enough?
 
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with these settings:

Shutter speed: 1/40 - 1/60
ƒ 16
White Balance: AUTO 1
ISO: 2000 - 3000
Personally I wouldn't use a tent, but it's a cheap way to get 1/2 decent results for what you are doing and it doesn't take much space.
But your lights are waaay too close to the tent, you want the entire side of the tent illuminated rather than the small areas you have in these pics. By having them that close you are getting almost zero benefit from the diffusion because you are creating massive hot spots.

I would start with f/11, ISO 100, 8sec exposure (or whatever is required), and use the camera's timer to trigger the shot. Yo also probably want to get the watch a bit farther back in the tent, and put a hood on the lens (if you don't have one, make one). Finally, compose the shot as tight as possible to get maximum detail... you can always add as much BG as needed later.
 
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Okay, I've changed settings and it's better now, only thing I can't avoid reflections :/ or well I can but only moving the lights further back and therefore the watch is not as bright as it should be, suggestions?
 
you could move the lights further back and slow your shutter speed
 
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