Nikon d800 - Sports settings

Jackietheo

Jackietheo

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Jacqueline
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I've owned my Nikon d800 for nearly 2 months now and I have recently started with an agency shooting league football.

Annoyingly my photos seem to go great one week and the next, some won't be as sharp like the previous week.

I'm shooting with a Nikon 70-200mm f2.8 vr ll lens so I know the kit is fine! What I'm thinking is maybe I need to change the settings in the autofocus menu. With me only having the camera a couple of months there are things I hadn't changed.

At the moment, I'm shooting af-c, D9, then whatever settings I need depending on the weather. A day game I'd shoot 1250 shutter, f2.8 and iso wise really depends how dark it is!

For anyone who uses a d800 for sports, tour advice would be really helpful!

Thanks
 
•


That camera has 4 Setup memory banks and #4 I use
equally for sports and wildlife and goes…

Manual, Auto ISO, 800 ++++ ss, ƒ whatever you need.
All these would not be worth a penny if I would not work
with 5 fp, single point priority selection and BBF.

It's all in the book if you use, like me, the RFM strategy!
 
Kodiak Qc said:
•


That camera has 4 Setup memory banks and #4 I use
equally for sports and wildlife and goes…

Manual, Auto ISO, 800 ++++ ss, ƒ whatever you need.
All these would not be worth a penny if I would not work
with 5 fp, single point priority selection and BBF.

It's all in the book if you use, like me, the RFM strategy!
Click to expand...
You find auto ISO best rather than choosing it yourself? A few of my photos have come out dark before.

Can you explain this bit - 5 fp, single point priority selection and BBF.

Do you use af-s rather than af-c? Also what's BBF? And 5fp, you mean 5 focal point. Can you choose 5 as I thought the lowest was 9 on the D9 option.

What autofocus settings do you recommend on that menu?
 
•

Sorry, there where a few typing errors…

Yes Auto ISO. The previous dark shots are not related to this
51 fp not 5 (all active!).
No 3D tracking, no nothing. Just single point priority selection.
Yes, I forgot to mention: AF/C on BBF
 
Kodiak Qc said:
•

Sorry, there where a few typing errors…

Yes Auto ISO. The previous dark shots are not related to this
51 fp not 5 (all active!).
No 3D tracking, no nothing. Just single point priority selection.
Yes, I forgot to mention: AF/C on BBF
Click to expand...
I'm confused when you say 51fp but using it on S. To use d51 it is af-c.

I looked up BBF. It suggested changing the camera to AF-on Only. Would this be right?
 
Menu set auto focus to a1 to focus a2 focus
Both in afs and afc in custom settings.. then your shutter won't release until in focus

 
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realspeed said:
Menu set auto focus to a1 to focus a2 focus
Both in afs and afc in custom settings.. then your shutter won't release until in focus
Click to expand...
I have these settings on and it still takes out of focused photos. One of the reasons I'm confused as it should only take when in focus :/
 
Kodiak Qc said:
Using the 51 points in any situation.

Right on!
Click to expand...
I will try 51fp and now I've changed the BBF hopefully there will be a change.

Does any of this need changing would you say?

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For setup illustration…
  1. ON is right
  2. —0+ is right
  3. I prefer 1/2 or 1… depending on the situation
    and to work faster and more precisely
  4. Irrelevant.
 
I think that I'd disagree with most of the points above.

For sport you want:

Release priority

Except for very exceptional circumstances use single point (or single point expanded), not all FPs active.

AF-c

Don't use Auto ISO. The change in tone between strips can easily fool the camera.

Above all. know your manual inside out - at least the relevant parts.
 
So your shooting pro football for an agency with one camera and a 70-200 that you don't know how to use?

Beggers belief :(
 
KIPAX said:
So your shooting pro football for an agency with one camera and a 70-200 that you don't know how to use?

Beggers belief :(
Click to expand...
What do you mean a 70-200mm I don't know how to use? I'm asking for advice on the camera not the lens. Didn't come on here asking for comments like this thanks. I've also had a few photos on BBC sports, I'm just asking for advice for consistency.
 
DemiLion said:
I think that I'd disagree with most of the points above.

For sport you want:

Release priority

Except for very exceptional circumstances use single point (or single point expanded), not all FPs active.

AF-c

Don't use Auto ISO. The change in tone between strips can easily fool the camera.

Above all. know your manual inside out - at least the relevant parts.
Click to expand...
I have read that focus priority takes a photo only when it's on focus.. Which doesn't seem to be the case since I tried it out. I keep the button held down when taking in continuous, would release be right?
 
KIPAX said:
So your shooting pro football for an agency with one camera and a 70-200 that you don't know how to use? Beggers belief :(
Click to expand...


The comment is legitimate, I had the same thought but did
not know how to speak it out,
 
Kodiak Qc said:

The comment is legitimate, I had the same thought but did
not know how to speak it out,
Click to expand...

Not I have to prove anything to anyone, here are my photos searched with my name on my agencies website:
http://pro-sports.photoshelter.com/...ANK&I_DSC_AND=t&V_ID=&G_ID=&C_ID=&_ACT=search

And here are a couple of my images used on BBC Sport:
Walsall 2-1 Northampton Town: http://www.bbc.co.uk/sport/football/teams/northampton-town
Evans signs new Wolves contract: http://www.bbc.co.uk/sport/football/teams/wolverhampton-wanderers

I've been with the agency for a month and am asking for some advise on the camera that I've also only owned for a month, that's all.
 
Jackietheo said:
asking for some advise on the camera that I've also only owned for a month, that's all.
Click to expand...
•
I only meant that the word "camera" was included
in the reply and did not suggest anything specifically
about the lens.

I would not imply that your request is less legitimate. :cool:
 
Learning how to use the D800 let alone the settings is a big task I have had mine since May 2013 and came up from a D70s to D200 to D300. and I still don't know/ use everything in the menu of the D800..

As the OP has only had it for 2 months I think she has a lot more to learn about it, but full marks for attempting Agency Work which requires a higher standard of photo than a "snapper" would take. Like everything in life you learn by your mistakes ,and I sure have, with photography even with my first box brownie way 50/60 years ago.

My motto is if you think you know everything about photography it is time you gave up
 
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Kodiak Qc said:
•
I only meant that the word "camera" was included
in the reply and did not suggest anything specifically
about the lens.

I would not imply that your request is less legitimate. :cool:
Click to expand...

Well, KIPAX didn't seem to believe what I was saying so at least now the proof is there.

Sports photography is something I've been interested in since college but have only really had the chance to start gaining experience since September when I got experience at Burton Albion. So I only really have 6 months experience in sports photography hence asking advise about sharpness and focusing. I have been using settings that I believe would be right, doesn't necessarily mean they are the right or best settings to use.

I am shooting mainly league 1 at the moment, which will eventually lead onto more championship games then eventually premier league.
 
Jackie

Every photographer sometimes takes a "poor/bad" photo but you never see or hear about it. I was thinking you have not mentioned if you use a monopod or not. Watching the occassional football match on TV most photographers seem to use them to keep the camera steady. The D800 and the 70-200 lens (I have both as well) you may have a balance problem between camera and lens as the lens is heavy. To counteract this I bolted on a genuine MB D12 Nikon grip which evens out this imballance problem. yes it adds weight but also helps steady a D800 I have found. Worth a thought
 
realspeed said:
Learning how to use the D800 let alone the settings is a big task I have had mine since May 2013 and came up from a D70s to D200 to D300. and I still don't know/ use everything in the menu of the D800..

As the OP has only had it for 2 months I think she has a lot more to learn about it, but full marks for attempting Agency Work which requires a higher standard of photo than a "snapper" would take. Like everything in life you learn by your mistakes ,and I sure have with photography even with my first box brownie way 50/60 years ago.

My motto is if you think you know everything about photography it is time you gave up
Click to expand...

Thank you for your comment. I have ALOT to learn about photography still never mind sports photography. I only graduated uni in July and have only just had the chance to make a start on gaining a portfolio in sports photography. It's hard working for the agency with the pressure of uploading a certain amount of photos in a certain amount of time and captioning correctly etc but they were happy to have me on the team.

I had a Nikon D7100 before my D800 so big difference but from the link I've provided, I can take sports but all i'm asking is I want to get consistently sharp photos. So whether that's me needing more practise or a change of settings.
 
realspeed said:
Jackie

Every photographer sometimes takes a "poor/bad" photo but you never see or hear about it. I was thinking you have not mentioned if you use a monopod or not. Watching the occassional football match on TV most photographers seem to use them to keep the camera steady. The D800 and the 70-200 lens (I have both as well) you may have a balance problem between camera and lens as the lens is heavy. To counteract this I bolted on a genuine MB D12 Nikon grip which evens out this imballance problem. yes it adds weight but also helps steady a D800 I have found. Worth a thought
Click to expand...

I don't use a monopod but I have contemplated about getting one or not. Most photographers i see with them have the huge 300mm or higher but obviously the difference in weight from a Nikon D7100 with a DX 50-200mm lens to what I use now is huge!
 
realspeed said:
Jackie

Every photographer sometimes takes a "poor/bad" photo but you never see or hear about it. I was thinking you have not mentioned if you use a monopod or not. Watching the occassional football match on TV most photographers seem to use them to keep the camera steady. The D800 and the 70-200 lens (I have both as well) you may have a balance problem between camera and lens as the lens is heavy. To counteract this I bolted on a genuine MB D12 Nikon grip which evens out this imballance problem. yes it adds weight but also helps steady a D800 I have found. Worth a thought
Click to expand...

I will also look into getting a grip. Not sure which would be best choice, possibly the monopod for now as they're not too expensive.
 
Jackietheo said:
I will try 51fp and now I've changed the BBF hopefully there will be a change.

Does any of this need changing would you say?

View attachment 96564
Click to expand...
The setting for a1 is irrelevant... there are only two times where the camera will not fire irregardless of focus, and neither apply here.
The setting for a4 is also fairly irrelevant in this situation... BBF using the AF-on button works with either setting. The difference is that w/ it set to off you can interrupt AF by releasing the AF-on button.
The setting for a7 is irrelevant for dynamic AF modes.

My best guess is that it's the setting for a3 that has the most potential for causing you the issue... with it set very low it will quickly abandon tracking and revert to the primary focus point. That said, I think it's more probable that the difference in consistency between events has more to do with lighting and other conditions outside of your control (and f/2.8 isn't helping).

My suggestion is to use as few AF points as possible relative to your ability to keep them on the subject/desired point of focus.

I have never used a monopod w/ a 70-200... more hindrance than help I would say.
 
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I don't do sports photography ,more interested in wildlife but have the same problem.Iit is only practice and practice agin to get better. One thing which is obvious but over looked is the closer the subject is to the lens the quicker it appears across the frame. Watch your shutter speed as well might make a difference
You may be able to check this with the shots you have taken. Ask yourself were the close subject shots more blurred than the distance ones, you might find the answer.

As I said I prefer wildlife, Birds in flight in particular and like you only usually get the one chance at it. Have say I prefer spot metering but that is just me.
Just a though check the settings of the good pictures with exif viewer

I use this one Kuso

http://www.softpedia.com/get/Multimedia/Graphic/Digital-Photo-Tools/KUSO-Exif-Viewer.shtml
 
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sk66 said:
The setting for a1 is irrelevant... there are only two times where the camera will not fire irregardless of focus, and neither apply here.
The setting for a4 is also fairly irrelevant in this situation... BBF using the AF-on button works with either setting. The difference is that w/ it set to off you can interrupt AF by releasing the AF-on button.
The setting for a7 is irrelevant for dynamic AF modes.

My best guess is that it's the setting for a3 that has the most potential for causing you the issue... with it set very low it will quickly abandon tracking and revert to the primary focus point. That said, I think it's more probable that the difference in consistency between events has more to do with lighting and other conditions outside of your control (and f/2.8 isn't helping).

My suggestion is to use as few AF points as possible relative to your ability to keep them on the subject/desired point of focus.

I have never used a monopod w/ a 70-200... more hindrance than help I would say.
Click to expand...

I use d9 usually as i don't want to to accidentally focus on other players than the ones i'm focusing on.

I have wondered about the f stop alot because obviously with it higher its darker but sharper but that sort of defeats the reason of buying f2.8 over the f4.8.
 
realspeed said:
I don't do sports photography ,more interested in wildlife but have the same problem.Iit is only practice and practice agin to get better. One thing which is obvious but over looked is the closer the subject is to the lens the quicker it appears across the frame. Watch your shutter speed as well might make a difference
You may be able to check this with the shots you have taken. Ask yourself were the close subject shots more blurred than the distance ones, you might find the answer.

As I said I prefer wildlife, Birds in flight in particular and like you only usually get the one chance at it. Have say I prefer spot metering but that is just me.
Just a though check the settings of the good pictures with exif viewer

I use this one Kuso

http://www.softpedia.com/get/Multimedia/Graphic/Digital-Photo-Tools/KUSO-Exif-Viewer.shtml
Click to expand...

Exactly, maybe that is my issue tbh. Practise. Most photographers at the clubs i see have been at it for years, 6 months isnt long at all.

Usually the closer ones are sharper. I think when its zoomed it goes off focus on what im pointing at :/
 
I am sure that your last sentence backs up realspeed's comment about the monopod - one would make a difference no matter which lens you use.
I bought an excellent monopod on ebay for just £18 a couple of years ago.
Also, a third party grip, such as ExPro, is very good value for money.
Good luck with your career, you're 'living the dream' many on here would like to be doing.
 
I shoot for my son's U15 football team, and generally use manual mode with shutter <1/800s, manual ISO, BBF, AF-C set to 9 focus points and release mode and AF lock on set to normal on both my D800 and D300 bodies using either 300mm f4 AF-S +/- 1.4x TC or 80-200 f.28 AF-S lenses. Have you checked your camera/lens for back/front focus? I would guess you're at the 200mm end of the lens most of the time, it could be worthwhile calibrating the AF adjustment for that end of the lens if you haven't already.
 
DemiLion said:
I think that I'd disagree with most of the points above.

For sport you want:

Release priority

Except for very exceptional circumstances use single point (or single point expanded), not all FPs active.

AF-c

Don't use Auto ISO. The change in tone between strips can easily fool the camera.

Above all. know your manual inside out - at least the relevant parts.
Click to expand...

Release priority unless you want to control your depth of field then aperture priority with iso set to allow the shutter to work in a range of say 1/1000 - 1/2500 with varying LVs. Shutter will let you control the blur but if the light drops if say clouds come over then the F number will drop below the level of the lens' max aperture and under expose. If you are shooting night with artifical light then use manual.
 
jamesev said:
Release priority unless you want to control your depth of field then aperture priority...
Click to expand...
I think you are mixing things up. "Release priority" is in reference to AF acquisition (settings a1/a2), but it is irrelevant. All Nikons since (roughly) the D7000/D800 are **always in release priority when set to AF-c, irregardless of that setting.


**technically the camera will respect the setting, but only for the first image taken. I have not found a way to change this behavior.
 
Doesn`t the D800 have relatively slow af compared to nearly every other nikon camera?
 
pope said:
Doesn`t the D800 have relatively slow af compared to nearly every other nikon camera?
Click to expand...
I wouldn't say that... IMO/IME it is better than most of the 4digit cameras and probably about equal to the D3/s. It was advertised as being the same as the D4, but it isn't.
 
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sk66 said:
I think you are mixing things up. "Release priority" is in reference to AF acquisition (settings a1/a2), but it is irrelevant. All Nikons since (roughly) the D7000/D800 are **always in release priority when set to AF-c, irregardless of that setting.


**technically the camera will respect the setting, but only for the first image taken. I have not found a way to change this behavior.
Click to expand...
I have just found a way to get *some* Nikons to respect the AF-C release priority setting, but only on camera's that allow you to assign the AF-On button to some other function (D5/D500)... not that I see it being of much benefit.
 
Jackietheo said:
I will try 51fp and now I've changed the BBF hopefully there will be a change.

Does any of this need changing would you say?

View attachment 96564View attachment 96570]View attachment 96565View attachment 96566
Click to expand...

Focus tracking with lock on makes a huge difference in the number of keepers for sports. Not sure if it has already been mentioned. I don't have my camera on me right now but if I recall correctly your setting is for fast refocussing. This means if you focus on somebody and someone else walks in front or if you move off your focus point briefly, it will quickly change focus. If you make the setting longer then it will delay before moving the focus. The reverse also applies and if the delay is too long it wont respond fast enough to changing to a different player. The rest of your settings look ok. I'd use 9 point dynamic focus and a fast continuous shutter with AF-C 'release + focus' priority. Or focus+release if focus is causing issues.
 
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