Nikon D750 & D780

What sharpening/NR do you use in LR before this process. I’ve tried using mogrify but it makes a bit of a mess of any other sharpening is introduced prior.

I've upped the sharpening recently to 40 (was 20) at 1px but masking is at 70. NR is at 20 for general but if I'm at ISO 100 then 10ish, or extreme ISO I'll up it based on exposure.

I tried mogrify and spent hours trying all variables but comparing the two just couldn't get the same crispness.
 
So anyone using the 18-35 on a D750? I'm looking for something wide to go with my 50 and 70-200. Not after a lens for low light, but there will be times when I want to shoot wider than 50 and wider than 35.

Don't want anything to big and heavy like the F4 version.
I have the 18-35mm G and it's a very good lens. Feels slightly cheap but it's light and very sharp.
 
I've upped the sharpening recently to 40 (was 20) at 1px but masking is at 70. NR is at 20 for general but if I'm at ISO 100 then 10ish, or extreme ISO I'll up it based on exposure.

I tried mogrify and spent hours trying all variables but comparing the two just couldn't get the same crispness.
Cheers buddy. Will have to give those settings a whirl (y)
 
I've upped the sharpening recently to 40 (was 20) at 1px but masking is at 70. NR is at 20 for general but if I'm at ISO 100 then 10ish, or extreme ISO I'll up it based on exposure.

I tried mogrify and spent hours trying all variables but comparing the two just couldn't get the same crispness.

Isn't there sharpening in camera? what do you guys have this set at? I always find I'm pushing the sharpening in LR further than I would expect, then have to use the NR to take a bit of the grain away
 
Isn't there sharpening in camera? what do you guys have this set at? I always find I'm pushing the sharpening in LR further than I would expect, then have to use the NR to take a bit of the grain away

Sharpening in camera is for jpegs. LR is RAW conversion and so all digital RAWs need an initial sharpen.
 
Yeah they'd work fine. I have one 602 transmitter and receiver if you want to have, that I don't use. Manual only but since getting the godox haven't used.

Cheers mate, that's grand... is this what I need for OCF triggering for my Shanny's?

 
Isn't there sharpening in camera? what do you guys have this set at? I always find I'm pushing the sharpening in LR further than I would expect, then have to use the NR to take a bit of the grain away
As said, if using RAW then camera setting (except for WB and exposure) won't affect RAW. In LR I'm usually around 30-50 sharpening depending. Masking is arguably the most important part of the sharpening as this can allow you to sharpen yet introduce little noise. I very rarely use NR, even at 6400 ISO.

I recently found that PS sharpening is better. I leave LR as default (25 I think) then once finished I send to PS and use high pass filter set as soft light as I find any other (overlay vivid etc) is too harsh.
 
Gave in to my gas this week and purchased a Sigma 35mm Art and a Godox 800 powerpack. On trying the 35mm for a quick few test shots I was totally unimpressed with the sharpness of the images so today got the tripod and ruler out and found it was massively front focusing. Used all the available +20 micro adjustment and it's better but still front focusing a bit. Does anyone know if getting the Sigma Dock will allow me further adjustment?
I know there are a few Sigma 35 art users on here anyone else had a similar problem?
 
Well, it seems me all smug as a bug in a rug with all these recalls is for nothing... my rear screen packed up today - can't get it to work whatever I do... looks like we'll be testing the Panamoz warranty to see just how good it is now after all. :rolleyes::(
 
Gave in to my gas this week and purchased a Sigma 35mm Art and a Godox 800 powerpack. On trying the 35mm for a quick few test shots I was totally unimpressed with the sharpness of the images so today got the tripod and ruler out and found it was massively front focusing. Used all the available +20 micro adjustment and it's better but still front focusing a bit. Does anyone know if getting the Sigma Dock will allow me further adjustment?
I know there are a few Sigma 35 art users on here anyone else had a similar problem?
I believe @minnnt had a Sigma Art that was like this and the dock fixed it. Personally I'd want to exchange it. Sigma do seem to be particularly bad for this from my experience.
 
You will have no probs with them. I recently had my 24-120 pack up, it was 2 1/2 years old , got a quote from Nikon ,contacted Tina and they sorted the money out within a hr. great service. :)
 
Gave in to my gas this week and purchased a Sigma 35mm Art and a Godox 800 powerpack. On trying the 35mm for a quick few test shots I was totally unimpressed with the sharpness of the images so today got the tripod and ruler out and found it was massively front focusing. Used all the available +20 micro adjustment and it's better but still front focusing a bit. Does anyone know if getting the Sigma Dock will allow me further adjustment?
I know there are a few Sigma 35 art users on here anyone else had a similar problem?

I'd get another one. I got stung years ago as I had a siggy that was that bad and when I sold it, a little naively as didn't think, the chap had a body with no MA. Rare today but I sent it back at my cost for calibration, think I was £100 out of pocket. I'm not a siggy fan.
 
Mine is not new, purchased from someone on the forum so not sure if this is feasible.
 
Thanks David that's what I hoped to hear, more money then, it's a good job my missus hasn't seen how much I've already spent this week. Running out of excuses for all these parcels she keeps taking in whilst I'm out. Do Amazon do click and collect lol.
 
Gave in to my gas this week and purchased a Sigma 35mm Art and a Godox 800 powerpack. On trying the 35mm for a quick few test shots I was totally unimpressed with the sharpness of the images so today got the tripod and ruler out and found it was massively front focusing. Used all the available +20 micro adjustment and it's better but still front focusing a bit. Does anyone know if getting the Sigma Dock will allow me further adjustment?
I know there are a few Sigma 35 art users on here anyone else had a similar problem?

I have the 35mm, it needed the dock too. I find the dock really easy to use for 35mm and 50mm as you don't need very distant target to adjust them (well apart from the infinity obviously) and also being a fixed focal there's only was focal lenght too. I was relieved my 150-600 seemed spot on straight away.

I don't know if it will let you adjust further that the in camera +20 but as minnnt said it's magic. Mine needed adjust bigger and bigger the longer the target was so it was great to be able to do 4 distance of calibration. It really is a great lens. Hope the dock can sort it out for you.
 
The dock is magic. Worth every penny. You’ll be able to calibrate it so that your body is on zero. You won’t be unhappy with the lens once it’s sorted.
Does the dock actually calibrate the lens so once it's corrected it will be corrected on all cameras and therefore should only need subtle adjustment on each camera if any?
 
Does the dock actually calibrate the lens so once it's corrected it will be corrected on all cameras and therefore should only need subtle adjustment on each camera if any?

The dock calibrate the lens to your camera only.

Check focus at a distance mounted on your camera. If wrong tune it to the right way. Check again on your camera. If still wrong adjust more. .....
 
The dock calibrate the lens to your camera only.

Check focus at a distance mounted on your camera. If wrong tune it to the right way. Check again on your camera. If still wrong adjust more. .....
That's a shame, would be nice if you could literally calibrate the lens.
 
That's a shame, would be nice if you could literally calibrate the lens.

Yes and no. I only have one camera so i prefer my lens to be spot on my body. If it's not calibrated on other body it's a bit annoying but after all not really my problem. Maybe it's the body that should all be calibrated similarly? That would solve a lot of problem.
 
Yes and no. I only have one camera so i prefer my lens to be spot on my body. If it's not calibrated on other body it's a bit annoying but after all not really my problem. Maybe it's the body that should all be calibrated similarly? That would solve a lot of problem.
Yes you'd want it calibrated to the body, but what I mean is that in Andy's case obviously the lens is well off, so it's going to need a lot of adjustments whatever body it's on, and in the case of the other post if it's then sold on, or you do indeed have more than one body at least it would be there or there abouts and then you could use the in camera fine tune to get it spot on.
 
Which is fine to get it sorted but if you have one that is beyond the bodies normal range I'd send it back to get calibrated because you may want to sell it one day [emoji20]
 
Which is fine to get it sorted but if you have one that is beyond the bodies normal range I'd send it back to get calibrated because you may want to sell it one day [emoji20]
Yeah that was my point, would be nice if the dock did this rather than having to send it away to get sorted.
 
Quick question re back button focus.

I’ve switched to it today, but is it possible to have the beep when pressing the focus once (essentially single point focus)?

I understand you can’t with holding the focus (continuous autofocus)
 
Does the dock actually calibrate the lens so once it's corrected it will be corrected on all cameras and therefore should only need subtle adjustment on each camera if any?
Yeah that was my point, would be nice if the dock did this rather than having to send it away to get sorted.

Each body is different, how would they know what to calibrate it to?

The good thing with the dock is that you can calibrate it at multiple distances (4 iirc) which is far better than anything you can do in camera.
 
Quick question re back button focus.

I’ve switched to it today, but is it possible to have the beep when pressing the focus once (essentially single point focus)?

I understand you can’t with holding the focus (continuous autofocus)

Personally find beeping focus annoying so always have off. Only good use for it is in the studio to give your model prior warning as to stop blinking.

For that reason I do have it on my favourites menu. It's option A2 priority selection you need focus selected and not release.

Discovered that trick at a workshop and could I find that on the day! Everyone was shooting canon which is far more obvious on the menu.
 
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You could check out the older Nikon 85/1.4 AF-D. I have one of those; it's the original cream machine.

I had one of these when I had my Nikon D700 and I totally agree. I did try the newer G one, but it just didn't have the same rendering at f1.4/2 and I kept the D version until I sold my Nikon outfit.
 
More sheep worrying, another rubbish landscape (70-200) and a derelict beer garden (18-35).





 
Each body is different, how would they know what to calibrate it to?

The good thing with the dock is that you can calibrate it at multiple distances (4 iirc) which is far better than anything you can do in camera.
I think you're missing my point ;)

I understand that each lens/body combo is different but if it's +20 or more it's way off, so you could calibrate it to a 'standard' which then should only need a slight fine tune. I personally wouldn't accept a lens that was that far out, but obviously YMMV.
 
So used the 70-200 2.8e this weekend and Initial results were mixed. Its missed focus a number of times when tracking.

I'm not sure why, the F4 never missed focus when tracking. I am not talking about minor missed focus, the whole shot was just out of focus. The in focus shots were nice, clean and crisp but the end results were not any better than the F4 in daylight conditions.

Once the light was going the benefits of 2.8 became apparant as it allowed me to use a faster shutter speed at lower ISO numbers. However I then did some shooting at F4 and the high ISO performance of the D750 really did shine.

Again though, when I looked back at the pics on the PC, there were a few shots with nothing in focus at all.

I'm not sure because it being an E lens I need to update my D750 firmware, but don't think that was the issue.

I think I'm more frustrated not knowing how it happened lol
 
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