Nikon D750 & D780

How do light meters work when you're killing the ambient light? or doesn't it matter as it's metering the light at that specific spot?
Hold the light meter by the subjects face and then it will measure the light there so exposure will be right for the face.

As for killing ambient, unless somewhere really bright then shooting at something like 1/160 ISO 100 and f8-11 you’ll most likely have killed the ambient anyway. If you need to you can always use HSS. The light meter picks up the light from the flash/strobe still to give you the correct exposure.
 
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There's a variety of methods that you can use. Arguably to get the most accurate you should use a lightmeter placed next to the subjects face, take a test shot and then the light meter will tell you the settings depending on what you have dialled in. Remember that below the sync speed shutter speed won't (in theory) affect the exposure. The way I've seen it done in studio is that they've set the strobe power, set the ISO and shutter fired a test shot and the lightmeter will tell you what aperture to use. Some people set the camera settings and then adjust the strobe/flash power accordingly. I do the latter. I don't have a light meter so I take a test shot, review it then adjust flash power as required. This is a case when the histogram is very useful. Another tip that I was given was to shoot in black and white (as it won't affect RAW) as you can see the highlights and shadows better. I've not experimented enough to know if I prefer this method or not.

You can chimp settings with the histogram as Toby mentions above. I do use a light meter to do it very quickly but after a while you get a good idea of distance and power roughly needed.

I also shoot in mono (RAW) as it does help to see how shadows fall. Modelling lights are instrumental in helping this but you can visually check on the back of the camera.

The two settings that don’t change are ISO 100 and 1/200 which will kill all ambient (remember that shutter speed only affects ambient light where flash is concerned.) I adjust the power of the head until f10 is achieved. Very simple in practice and a meter just means I can set aperture in 10 seconds instead of a minute.

You also just need to remember, the closer the light source, the softer the light, but faster the fall-off. I shoot the softbox as close as possible, usually in frame and edited out afterwards but you do need to ensure two people are close together otherwise the fall-off may be too severe on the second face.
 
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0...s=YISITONG&dpPl=1&dpID=51XQvisPQ-L&ref=plSrch

How is this is a set up. Just for home stuff and the new baby coming lol

I’d need to look at it when I’m back later Mark, but looks a lot of kit for the money which would make me question the quality. Stick to a brand, Lencarta is probably your best bet for the money. You don’t need multiple heads, a good single head, decent softbox and reflector will do a lot. Buy a bg stand and paper separately. I bought into elinchrom at the start. It’s mid range price level but modifiers are expensive but you can build on a basic system as I have done.

I bought a dedicated beanbag for when we had our little girl then sold afterwards, you could consider that. You only need a blanket pinned to a bg stand behind and draped over for newborns. I used a single 100cm softbox over the top and that was it.
 
I’d need to look at it when I’m back later Mark, but looks a lot of kit for the money which would make me question the quality. Stick to a brand, Lencarta is probably your best bet for the money. You don’t need multiple heads, a good single head, decent softbox and reflector will do a lot. Buy a bg stand and paper separately. I bought into elinchrom at the start. It’s mid range price level but modifiers are expensive but you can build on a basic system as I have done.

I bought a dedicated beanbag for when we had our little girl then sold afterwards, you could consider that. You only need a blanket pinned to a bg stand behind and draped over for newborns. I used a single 100cm softbox over the top and that was it.

Cheers thanks for that,

I did look at the lencarta stuff after looking at the correct thread but cost wise, it was purely something that will only get used a handful of times i reckon,
As re the new born shots, have ordered a few blanket things and some silly hats lol, It is purely just a whim purchase more than anything else cause im bored till the clay shooting season starts lol.

Still in 2 minds which way to go.

Only 2 weeks to go till she is here
 
Cheers thanks for that,

I did look at the lencarta stuff after looking at the correct thread but cost wise, it was purely something that will only get used a handful of times i reckon,
As re the new born shots, have ordered a few blanket things and some silly hats lol, It is purely just a whim purchase more than anything else cause im bored till the clay shooting season starts lol.

Still in 2 minds which way to go.

Only 2 weeks to go till she is here

I think there’s a number of ways you can look at it. We didn’t want any ultra fancy poses like the frog etc and my missus really didn’t want any naked ones that are fashionable. Just some good quality pictures. I was lucky that I’d already started learning it but probably spent £150 on props (blankets, hats, beanbag).

If you go to a studio you’ll end up paying £300+.
If you buy half decent kit, you could sell it afterwards with little loss.
You may decide to use occasionally as you little one grows and save studio money each time.
You could hire some kit? (See flash centre)

The hardest bit for me as a new parent was not really knowing babies and never handled one properly. It’s best to do in the first 10 days but there was that much going on that it took two weeks and a lot of patience one day as she was very restless. Anyway, a great experience and one I wanted to have a go at documenting myself.

Here’s my efforts, which were good enough for us..

38185061225_84da5f2f2b_b.jpg


27296539759_a471711fa3_b.jpg
 
I think there’s a number of ways you can look at it. We didn’t want any ultra fancy poses like the frog etc and my missus really didn’t want any naked ones that are fashionable. Just some good quality pictures. I was lucky that I’d already started learning it but probably spent £150 on props (blankets, hats, beanbag).

If you go to a studio you’ll end up paying £300+.
If you buy half decent kit, you could sell it afterwards with little loss.
You may decide to use occasionally as you little one grows and save studio money each time.
You could hire some kit? (See flash centre)

The hardest bit for me as a new parent was not really knowing babies and never handled one properly. It’s best to do in the first 10 days but there was that much going on that it took two weeks and a lot of patience one day as she was very restless. Anyway, a great experience and one I wanted to have a go at documenting myself.

Here’s my efforts, which were good enough for us..

38185061225_84da5f2f2b_b.jpg


27296539759_a471711fa3_b.jpg
Gorgeous, love that 2nd shot.
 
I think there’s a number of ways you can look at it. We didn’t want any ultra fancy poses like the frog etc and my missus really didn’t want any naked ones that are fashionable. Just some good quality pictures. I was lucky that I’d already started learning it but probably spent £150 on props (blankets, hats, beanbag).

If you go to a studio you’ll end up paying £300+.
If you buy half decent kit, you could sell it afterwards with little loss.
You may decide to use occasionally as you little one grows and save studio money each time.
You could hire some kit? (See flash centre)

The hardest bit for me as a new parent was not really knowing babies and never handled one properly. It’s best to do in the first 10 days but there was that much going on that it took two weeks and a lot of patience one day as she was very restless. Anyway, a great experience and one I wanted to have a go at documenting myself.

Here’s my efforts, which were good enough for us..

38185061225_84da5f2f2b_b.jpg


27296539759_a471711fa3_b.jpg
Not interested in naked pics either.
I personally have never had kids either so it's going to be a new world to me.

Food for thought thou Thank you very much.

Stunning pics thou.
 
Not interested in naked pics either.
I personally have never had kids either so it's going to be a new world to me.

Food for thought thou Thank you very much.

Stunning pics thou.

Thanks. Re-edited those two recently as a little heavy at the time. Have a different one on the wall than those two.

It’s good fun but putting newborns into contortionist poses when you’ve not handled them before wouldn’t be a good idea. I struggled to get her into a wrap but there’s plenty of YouTube vids about on that.

I still haven’t finished an album of her first year. Really must sort that soon. Good luck with it all. I was late in life to it all and not really that maternal, but so glad it happened, it’s such a great experience. Good luck and look forward to some pictures.
 
I think there’s a number of ways you can look at it. We didn’t want any ultra fancy poses like the frog etc and my missus really didn’t want any naked ones that are fashionable. Just some good quality pictures. I was lucky that I’d already started learning it but probably spent £150 on props (blankets, hats, beanbag).

If you go to a studio you’ll end up paying £300+.
If you buy half decent kit, you could sell it afterwards with little loss.
You may decide to use occasionally as you little one grows and save studio money each time.
You could hire some kit? (See flash centre)

The hardest bit for me as a new parent was not really knowing babies and never handled one properly. It’s best to do in the first 10 days but there was that much going on that it took two weeks and a lot of patience one day as she was very restless. Anyway, a great experience and one I wanted to have a go at documenting myself.

Here’s my efforts, which were good enough for us..

38185061225_84da5f2f2b_b.jpg


27296539759_a471711fa3_b.jpg

If I can get anything like this when the little lad makes an appearance, I'd be chuffed! We do have a studio session booked though.
 
I think there’s a number of ways you can look at it. We didn’t want any ultra fancy poses like the frog etc and my missus really didn’t want any naked ones that are fashionable. Just some good quality pictures. I was lucky that I’d already started learning it but probably spent £150 on props (blankets, hats, beanbag).

If you go to a studio you’ll end up paying £300+.
If you buy half decent kit, you could sell it afterwards with little loss.
You may decide to use occasionally as you little one grows and save studio money each time.
You could hire some kit? (See flash centre)

The hardest bit for me as a new parent was not really knowing babies and never handled one properly. It’s best to do in the first 10 days but there was that much going on that it took two weeks and a lot of patience one day as she was very restless. Anyway, a great experience and one I wanted to have a go at documenting myself.

Here’s my efforts, which were good enough for us..

38185061225_84da5f2f2b_b.jpg


27296539759_a471711fa3_b.jpg


Congrats on these, they are lovely.
 
Has anyone here used the new version of the tamron 24-70mm f2.8 vc?

I’ve used the first vc version and liked it a lot - but found the Nikon (non vc) much smoother to zoom.
 
Not interested in naked pics either.
I personally have never had kids either so it's going to be a new world to me.

Food for thought thou Thank you very much.

Stunning pics thou.

If you are interested in a project do a 365 of the wee one when she comes. We did it for our 2 boys, a shot daily from the day they were born to their 1st birthday. It does end up with lots of phone snaps for convenience but we did put together a photo book with the better 100 or so shots for each of them and hopefully I will still be around to give them their copies when they are old enough to appreciate them.
 
If you are interested in a project do a 365 of the wee one when she comes. We did it for our 2 boys, a shot daily from the day they were born to their 1st birthday. It does end up with lots of phone snaps for convenience but we did put together a photo book with the better 100 or so shots for each of them and hopefully I will still be around to give them their copies when they are old enough to appreciate them.
Yeah was thinking that. But would still like some studio style ones for canvass for walls as it is my first and last child.
 
Anyone know if the NIKON ML-L3 Infrared IR Wireless Remote Shutter Control works with the D750?
The cheap (£5) Amazon Basic's version works too. Almost worth having as a backup whatever else you get at that price!
 
Not managed to do much with my D750 recently but went out this morning and wandered into a sheepdog trial. Spent more time chatting than taking photos TBH. I must get a replacement lens hood for my 28-300.



 
Question.

Does a 50mm 2.8 let in the same amount of light as a 35mm 2.8?
The amount of light let in is decided by the aperture (the 2.8). So, any lens set at f/2.8 will let in the same amount of light as any other lens set at f/2.8. Any lens set to f/16 will also let in the same amount of light as any other lens set at f/16. Or any other f/x.


(It is possible to be technically silly and declare that only T numbers let in the same light, not f numbers, but that is not relevant to photography).
 
Question.

Does a 50mm 2.8 let in the same amount of light as a 35mm 2.8?
Without being pedantic yes in terms of the light reaching the sensor.
 
Depends on the light transmission of the lens though.
Yes, but that’s what I meant about being pedantic ;)

@markgodley to clarify this whilst in theory all f2.8 lenses for example should allow the same amount of light to hit the lens the reality is that they don’t, which is why with have the T numbers which is a true measure of the light reaching the sensor. For the most part the difference between lenses is small to insignificant, but I believe there’s some lenses where the light has actually been around 1/3 stop less than the f number suggests.

F numbers are a calculation of the actual physical aperture of the lens and the focal length. However, some glass and lens surfaces transmit light better than others hence the difference in T numbers I believe. I’m sure I’ll be corrected if wrong ;)
 
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Yes, but that’s what I meant about being pedantic ;)

@markgodley to clarify this whilst in theory all f2.8 lenses for example should allow the same amount of light to hit the lens the reality is that they don’t, which is why with have the T numbers which is a true measure of the light reaching the sensor. For the most part the difference between lenses is small to insignificant, but I believe there’s some lenses where the light has actually been around 1/3 stop less than the f number suggests.

:D
 
Yes, but that’s what I meant about being pedantic ;)

@markgodley to clarify this whilst in theory all f2.8 lenses for example should allow the same amount of light to hit the lens the reality is that they don’t, which is why with have the T numbers which is a true measure of the light reaching the sensor. For the most part the difference between lenses is small to insignificant, but I believe there’s some lenses where the light has actually been around 1/3 stop less than the f number suggests.

F numbers are a calculation of the actual physical aperture of the lens and the focal length. However, some glass and lens surfaces transmit light better than others hence the difference in T numbers I believe. I’m sure I’ll be corrected if wrong ;)

Did you write that with your lab coat on
 
Did you write that with your lab coat on
Nah just the wealth of useless knowledge lodged in my noggin that pushes all the useful stuff out ;)
 
Had a play today in the old house as its empty and has bigger windows. Didnt quite go to plan. As per normal didnt turn out how i thought in my head haha

but i had a go anyway.

bw8 by Mark Kingston, on Flickr

bw7 by Mark Kingston, on Flickr

bw6 by Mark Kingston, on Flickr
These are nice, but could be made much better (IMO) very easily by making the background completely white instead of having the off white bits there.
 
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