OFFICIAL I HAVE A NEW (FILM RELATED) TOY THREAD!!

droj said:

A dioptre isn't a thing, it's a measurement - dioptre (British) (US: diopter) is a unit for measuring the power of a lens and is the reciprocal of the focal length of the lens in metres.

What can be added to a camera is an eyepiece correction lens, which has a given power stated as its dioptre. They can be handy if you wear reading glasses and don't want to walk around wearing them ...
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Thanks Rog, I've always thought that the dipotre was the glass part inside of the eyepiece. I think it's because a lot of other websites and forums use the terms interchangeably, and it can be hard to sift through and find what's right and wrong!
 
My Canon EOS 30 arrived today. I had no problems with the eye control but was surprised to find it didn't have eye controlled depth of field like the EOS 5. It came in it's original box with all documents. Everything is in great shape, though it has a slightly sticky grip.IMG_20180206_183110.jpg
 
Fraser Euan White said:
Mr Badger,

please can we refrain from obscene language on the forum - there might be children reading who get the wrong impression :)
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I'm terribly sorry, I don't know what came over me, I wasn't paying attention and the word just slipped out, I don't know why as I hardly ever even use that word! Anyway, I promise not to write 'Nikon' again on this forum. Oh, wait a minute.. sorry... sorry! ;)
 
Manwithacam said:
My Canon EOS 30 arrived today. I had no problems with the eye control but was surprised to find it didn't have eye controlled depth of field like the EOS 5. It came in it's original box with all documents. Everything is in great shape, though it has a slightly sticky grip.View attachment 119731
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h'mm Yongnuo? surely not a poser's lens...but you never know it might produce VG results.
 
Snip:
Manwithacam said:
I had no problems with the eye control but was surprised to find it didn't have eye controlled depth of field like the EOS 5.
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It has got eye-controlled depth of field (it's operated by the 'DEP' setting on the 'creative zone' side of the command dial), see Page 66 of the instruction booklet. Hope this is useful.
 
Mr Badger said:
I've been a fan of eye control focus since I bought my EOS-3 about 18 years ago, I find it works well if time is taken to calibrate it properly first, and you don't take your eye off the point you want to focus on until you've half pressed the shutter button and acquired focus. I think this is probably where some of the people who didn't get on well with ECF probably went wrong. Some spectacle wearers apparently had issues with it too, as I believe wearing eye glasses could upset the system (to tie in to the other sub-thread!). However, it's easy to switch the ECF feature off as it worked in addition to, rather than instead of, the conventional focus system (auto or manually selectable focus points).
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I've really struggled to calibrate any of my ECF film cameras, might be because I have squinty little eyes :) Would fitting a shield over the back of the eyepiece help, when I say shield I mean those rubber eyecup things that cupped your eye/head interface and blocked out light from entering the rear of the camera.

Any tips on getting ECF to calibrate would be appreciated as I think it's a brilliant idea.
(Eos 5, 50e and 30)

Matt
 
MatBin said:
I've really struggled to calibrate any of my ECF film cameras, might be because I have squinty little eyes :) Would fitting a shield over the back of the eyepiece help, when I say shield I mean those rubber eyecup things that cupped your eye/head interface and blocked out light from entering the rear of the camera.

Any tips on getting ECF to calibrate would be appreciated as I think it's a brilliant idea.
(Eos 5, 50e and 30)

Matt
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I found with the EOS30's I've had that the more calibrations you run, the more effective the eye AF is. Also, run your calibrations in different light conditions (inside/outside etc) and make sure you look directly at each of the focus points until the camera acknowledges it and lights the next one.
 
stevelmx5 said:
I found with the EOS30's I've had that the more calibrations you run, the more effective the eye AF is. Also, run your calibrations in different light conditions (inside/outside etc) and make sure you look directly at each of the focus points until the camera acknowledges it and lights the next one.
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There's my problem it never seems to get past acknowledging the first point.
 
Hi Matt. Perhaps try with the EOS 30 to start with, as it's only got 7 focus points and they're fairly well spaced apart? I'd think it's probably best to start with a re-set of the ECF memory (see the instruction book on how to do this), then read the instruction steps carefully so you know how to follow the calibration process. Make sure the viewfinder glass is clean and not covered in fingerprints and bits of dust.

I then find a well lit scene with something the camera (and I) can focus on (not a flat, featureless subject). Then, as Steve says, look directly at each of the focus points until the camera acknowledges it and lights the next one. Don't let your eye wander away from it even for a moment or the calibration won't work properly. Don't forget to do set the calibration for the camera in 'portrait' position each time after you've done a landscape position calibration.

Once you've calibrated it two or three times then give the ECF feature a try, but remember that you still need to look directly at the required focus point until the camera focus locks onto it and the green (usually) focus confirmation LED lights up in the viewfinder display. Allowing yourself to look away from the focus point before that will probably confuse the system. Obviously, sometimes the camera won't be able to focus on the point you're looking at (perhaps due to lack of contrast or edges for it to lock onto), this isn't a fault with the ECF as long as the focus point you were looking at briefly lit up to show it was the chosen point.

One of those rubber eye-cup things might help by keeping stray light out (but may need to be fitted before you calibrate the ECF) but I've not tried one, so let me know if it works if you give one a go!

If it works for a person then I think they'll find that ECF is a very useful system. There are some drawbacks though; when I've been using my EOS-3 with ECF and I pick up my DSLR shortly afterwards, I find myself looking at a particular focus point and wondering why the camera hasn't chosen it! Perhaps this is the film camera's revenge for me sometimes 'chimping' and looking at the back of it for the non-existent display screen after taking a shot?! :whistle:
 
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Yeah, I've chimped a film camera and I can see (no pun intended) me wondering why the 5D3 isnt locking on :)
Thanks for the advice (all) I'll persevere, I think.
Is any lens better than any other, I was thinking fast prime, 50 or 80
 
I use an EF 28-135 IS when setting mine up, as this is the lens I usually use on them. It seems to work OK on that (the cameras are of the same era as that lens so I suppose they should!); I'll let you know how I go on with a 50mm 1.8 when I get one (it's next on the hit list!). :)
 
Mr Badger said:
Snip:

It has got eye-controlled depth of field (it's operated by the 'DEP' setting on the 'creative zone' side of the command dial), see Page 66 of the instruction booklet. Hope this is useful.
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I meant that with the EOS 5 you look up to the top left corner for DoF. There is a DoF button near the bottom of the lens mount on the EOS 30.
 
stevelmx5 said:
The Yongnuo is a recent direct copy of the Canon nifty fifty mk2 so will produce good results, apart from the same loud AF.
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I also have the Yongnuo 35mm f2, on my 550D at the moment and a Nikon mount 35mm on my F75. They also do clones of the 85mm f1.8 and 100mm f2.

I do have a Canon 50mm Mk II version on my Canon 400D but I can't find it. That's why I bought the Yongnuo lenses, though the 50mm one was only £25 from Cash Converters.
 
I've got to slow down buying cameras. Just got this 1953 Akarette II. It has clearly been well loved but all works as it should. Those Prontor shutters do not give up even when the camera has been stored somewhere that made the nickel plating very corroded. It has interchangeable lenses so is provided with two viewfinders to match the available lenses (actually, more lenses were available but 8 viewfinders would not work well).

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Manwithacam said:
I meant that with the EOS 5 you look up to the top left corner for DoF. There is a DoF button near the bottom of the lens mount on the EOS 30.
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The EOS-3 has a DoF preview button too, so it seems the EOS 5 was the odd one out there. I wasn't keen on the look of the EOS 5 so never bought one.
 
john.margetts said:
I've got to slow down buying cameras. Just got this 1953 Akarette II. It has clearly been well loved but all works as it should. Those Prontor shutters do not give up even when the camera has been stored somewhere that made the nickel plating very corroded. It has interchangeable lenses so is provided with two viewfinders to match the available lenses (actually, more lenses were available but 8 viewfinders would not work well).

View attachment 119827
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Mine has the shutter stuck open.
 
Another day, another Zenit, the 12XP. This one is a bit more user friendly with built in meter and better controls. The wear is from the quick release clips on the strap.IMG_20180209_203212.jpgIMG_20180209_204732.jpg
 
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Picked up today - a 5 inch (127mm) lens - f/4 to f/11 - brass body. Had been diy mounted to what looks like a demonstration stand (some time ago by the brass bolts). Another part for my homebrew LF camera project - it may cover 4x5 just. No idea on maker or original use, will see what I can find.

Edit 1 - Google has similar lens as Air Ministry (Ross Xpress) 5 Inch f4 and this one has has it's ID filed off !! - so probably off a WW2 Aerial Recon. camera.

Edit 2 - the VV Serial means it is a Dallmeyer made copy of the Ross design they were permitted to use their entitled Serial-# prefix letters, which were either "VV" or "UU"
 
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I saw an EOS 3 in a Cash Converters today. I didn't have the cash to buy it after all my other buys this month so I put a deposit on it so I can pay it off next payday. It is £149.99, is that a good price for body only?
 
Manwithacam said:
I saw an EOS 3 in a Cash Converters today. I didn't have the cash to buy it after all my other buys this month so I put a deposit on it so I can pay it off next payday. It is £149.99, is that a good price for body only?
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With a warranty not too bad - I beat the man in the flea market down from £10 to £5 for mine :exit:
 
Manwithacam said:
I saw an EOS 3 in a Cash Converters today. I didn't have the cash to buy it after all my other buys this month so I put a deposit on it so I can pay it off next payday. It is £149.99, is that a good price for body only?
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If it's in good condition and full working order then I don't think that's too bad, have a look at the completed items on eBay and that should give you an idea. I think the days of picking one up in Mint- condition for £100 from a camera dealership are long gone, anything approaching unmarked condition (particularly with original box and paperwork) seems to be changing hands for over £200 these days, and quite right too, it's got to be one of the best and most advanced 35mm SLRs ever made.

I'd start with a brand new battery for it (I think Energizer or Duracell seem to be about the best) as they seem to have the usual Lithium battery habit of being 'all or nothing' and going from working to flat without much (if any) warning. Unused in the packet the battery should have a shelf-life of around 10 years though, so make sure you get fresh stock. In camera it depends on how many rolls of film you use and how much you use the IS function on lenses, etc.

I wouldn't put a film in the camera until you need to either, as I've got a suspicion that this causes more battery drain even if the camera is turned off to the 'L' position; well, more than it does when there's no film left in it. I may be wrong, but that's the impression I have from my camera but it could just be my imagination!

dmb said:
With a warranty not too bad - I beat the man in the flea market down from £10 to £5 for mine :exit:
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Blimey, at least Dick Turpin had the decency to wear a mask! ;) That has to be the haggle of the century, in working condition the film door alone has to be worth about twice the original asking price! :whistle:
 
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Mr Badger said:
If it's in good condition and full working order then I don't think that's too bad, have a look at the completed items on eBay and that should give you an idea. I think the days of picking one up in Mint- condition for £100 from a camera dealership are long gone, anything approaching unmarked condition (particularly with original box and paperwork) seems to be changing hands for over £200 these days, and quite right too, it's got to be one of the best and most advanced 35mm SLRs ever made.

I'd start with a brand new battery for it (I think Energizer or Duracell seem to be about the best) as they seem to have the usual Lithium battery habit of being 'all or nothing' and going from working to flat without much (if any) warning. Unused in the packet the battery should have a shelf-life of around 10 years though, so make sure you get fresh stock. In camera it depends on how many rolls of film you use and how much you use the IS function on lenses, etc.

I wouldn't put a film in the camera until you need to either, as I've got a suspicion that this causes more battery drain even if the camera is turned off to the 'L' position; well, more than it does when there's no film left in it. I may be wrong, but that's the impression I have from my camera but it could just be my imagination!


Blimey, at least Dick Turpin had the decency to wear a mask! ;) That has to be the haggle of the century, in working condition the film door alone has to be worth about twice the original asking price! :whistle:
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It's in very good condition, just the body with cap. It had a battery in it and I put my 35mm lens on and managed to focus before the battery died. I'll take a 2CR5 in with me when I go to pay the balance.
 
Fraser Euan White said:
Would that be for the flash output from the Metz or to hide the beautiful name on the pentaprism that would bring you out in a rash :)
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Was watching the film "The Secret Life Of Walter Mitty" the other night and there was Sean Penn sitting on a mountain complete with a Nikon F3/T waiting to catch a shot of a Snow Leopard.........

Why they decided to tape up the Nikon name is beyond me though........
 
AnthonyJC said:
Was watching the film "The Secret Life Of Walter Mitty" the other night and there was Sean Penn sitting on a mountain complete with a Nikon F3/T waiting to catch a shot of a Snow Leopard.........

Why they decided to tape up the Nikon name is beyond me though........
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They probably couldn't get Nikon to pay for it.
Tbf, why would they, they never needed the exposure, everyone already knew they make the best kit...:D
 
Very nice. A lovely camera.
 
I read a comparative test somewhere on the internet of the ease of handholding/amount of camera shake for medium format cameras. The Mamiya came out very well, and surprisingly (for me) better than the Hasselblad.
 
StephenM said:
I read a comparative test somewhere on the internet of the ease of handholding/amount of camera shake for medium format cameras. The Mamiya came out very well, and surprisingly (for me) better than the Hasselblad.
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The mirror does feel less violent, for want of a better word, than my Hasselblad 500c/m.
 
Fancied one of these for a while so delighted to pick up a recently CLA'd Canonet QL17.

I knew about the staining which is apparently glue residue. Any suggestions for removing it without scratching the metal beneath? I've had a little go with rubbing alcohol which doesn't seem to have made a difference.

 
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