Chroma - Lasercut Acrylic 4x5 Field Camera

For a non-pano roll film back, would it be an option to build an adapter for an existing back (or more than one, eg different sizes), to take advantage of cranked winders? (You can perhaps tell I really don't like the knob/red window approach!) No idea how that would work with the focus screen...

The standard Chroma back on launch will accept 4x5 rollfilm backs (with existing wind mechanisms) already and will just need some additional magnetic fittings to secure them fully. I haven’t got a 4x5 rollfilm back here but if someone wants me to try theirs out I’m happy to take a look.
 
If you'd like to play with my Wista 6x7 back, PM me an address to post it to.
 
Congratulations on reaching your goal Steve!

If my PC hadn't blown up this week I'd have been sorely tempted to back this, I guess I'll have to pick one up later then!
 
Congratulations on reaching your goal Steve!

If my PC hadn't blown up this week I'd have been sorely tempted to back this, I guess I'll have to pick one up later then!

Thanks Rob [emoji1303]

As Chris says below though, there are still release edition cameras left. I’m going to be purchasing the materials for all of the cameras once the campaign ends and then build them in the order of the rewards. At the moment I’m looking at around 80 cameras but will get them out as quickly as possible.

Cheers
 
I am hoping I can scrap together the funds for this! 3 weddings abroad this summer are competing for my back balance lol

Thanks [emoji1303]

I’ve just added a new reward for additional lens boards as a few people have asked about availability. I’m also going to adding the 612 and wetplate backs as rewards in the next week. Just finalising the models for them then will cut them to test.
 
Ok, serious question, if I could incorporate rear swing and shift to the Chroma is that something that adds useful benefit? I reckon I could include up to 10mm shift each way and maybe 15 degrees of swing each way comfortably without a huge redesign.

Thoughts?
 
Mk. II?
 
One of the reasons I went for the Shen Hao that I did (HZX45) was plenty of movements. I mainly use it for landscapes and, in reality, I don't really use the movements much (mostly front tilt and rise/fall at either end), but I'd rather have the choice than not.
 
I've used rear swing a few times on the arca, mostly to align the focus along a wall or other feature so I didn't need to stop down so far but that only worked because the other side wasn't as close to the camera, see example.

But tbh I'm quite sure it's not a deal breaker. I'd leave it at this stage.

Same old Street by Steven, on Flickr
 
Seriously, I would stop developing the Launch Edition and concentrate on production for a while. No reason not to keep working on refinements but fix the design for this Mk. I and leave the further developments as either an upgrade kit for the Mk.I or as part of the almost inevitable Mk.II.
 
Both are things that I would like because it makes certain types of photograph easier. But if you think about it, if you need to have the back offset or angled, you can do that with a fixed back and use front movements to square up again. It's a convenience, not a necessity. So, much as I'd like you to incorporate it, I'll agree with the others that this isn't the time to start feature creep.

With the fixed/glued bellows, swapping rear standards is obviously not a user job.
 
Cheers Nod and SteveO. My mind is always working on ideas and options so when I hit on something it’s hard not to start developing it.

You’re right though, as it’s not an especially critical pair of movements I’m going to stick with the current design that’s already rigid, light and easy to assemble [emoji1303]

I’ve got a few other ideas that I’ll get down on paper so they’re out of my head but will leave them there for now!
 
Thanks for the further confirmation @StephenM. I had considered making the bellows magnetically fixed on both the front and back standards to allow for a simple swapover to bag Bellows but again, I think I will keep that for future developments.

Speaking of developments, your 6x7 back arrived today and fits very nicely. I’ll get on with drawing up the magnetic clips tomorrow [emoji1303]

IMG_0203.jpg

IMG_0204.jpg
 
I think there are a lot of products out there that don't work because instead of trying to do a few things well, they try and do everything and end up failing. I would save the extra ideas in your head for a future mkII version and concentrate on on what you've got now. What you have already is a light weight, low cost, large format field camera, and people are going nuts for it. I would hate to see you try and expand it too much and then end up tying yourself in knots, or end up with something that's not what you originally planned/wanted.

Just my two cents of course, you've got this far without me meddling too much, so feel free to ignore me :D
 
Good to know that it arrived safely. Well done GPO!
 
I think there are a lot of products out there that don't work because instead of trying to do a few things well, they try and do everything and end up failing. I would save the extra ideas in your head for a future mkII version and concentrate on on what you've got now. What you have already is a light weight, low cost, large format field camera, and people are going nuts for it. I would hate to see you try and expand it too much and then end up tying yourself in knots, or end up with something that's not what you originally planned/wanted.

Just my two cents of course, you've got this far without me meddling too much, so feel free to ignore me :D

Thanks Carl. You’re definitely right in what you’re saying. People are clearly happy with what they see (I’ve got 85 cameras to build now!) so I’ll deliver what everyone is expecting.

I’ve got big plans for Chroma going forwards and have already started sketching a 612 rollfilm body after finding that even selling both of my kidneys wouldn’t get me a Linhof 612 [emoji22]
 
I just made it 88 sold :D
 
Speaking of developments, your 6x7 back arrived today and fits very nicely. I’ll get on with drawing up the magnetic clips tomorrow [emoji1303]

Very interesting!

How does that back wind on? And how do you focus with a back like that?
 
Very interesting!

How does that back wind on? And how do you focus with a back like that?

Theres a proper wind on handle, works just like on your pentax and I believe that you focus with the ground glass screen then pop the back on and remove the dark slide to take the shot.
If there's a chance of a 6 x 12 back then count me in. :D
 
I've used rear swing a few times on the arca, mostly to align the focus along a wall or other feature so I didn't need to stop down so far but that only worked because the other side wasn't as close to the camera, see example.

But tbh I'm quite sure it's not a deal breaker. I'd leave it at this stage.

Same old Street by Steven, on Flickr


The normal practice is to use the back movements to correct for distortions, and the front ones for focus shifts. (and shifts to move the image in the frame)
However it is easy enough to aligning the back as needed with out swing, and then adjust position with front side shift, and correct focus with front swing.
Many field cameras had no back swing. (some no back tilt either)
 
Theres a proper wind on handle, works just like on your pentax and I believe that you focus with the ground glass screen then pop the back on and remove the dark slide to take the shot.
If there's a chance of a 6 x 12 back then count me in. :D

I’ve decided that I’m going to focus the campaign on the camera itself then look to sell the additional backs after I’ve assembled the bulk of the cameras. I don’t want extra rewards leading to issues getting the actual cameras together.
 
Very sensible. ↑↑

However, if and when you do decide to build one I'm on it like a bonnet. (y)
 
Apologies for the photo rather than scan but I haven’t got a scanner at the moment and the slide only came back from Peak this afternoon [emoji3]

8 years’ OOD sheet of Quickload Velvia 50 shot in slightly flat British weather, what could possibly go wrong?

IMG_1518802286.888154.jpg

The shadows could have done with maybe another stop of compensation but there is actually good detail there when it’s backlit fully so should scan ok.

This was the first time I’ve used the Quickload holder and film on my Chroma, which I’d popped out at lunchtime with, and was seeing how well it worked with my Manfrotto Pixi pocket tripod (I like a challenge!)

IMG_0186.jpg
 
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Apologies for the photo rather than scan but I haven’t got a scanner at the moment and the slide only came back from Peak this afternoon [emoji3]

8 years’ OOD sheet of Quickload Velvia 50 shot in slightly flat British weather, what could possibly go wrong?

View attachment 120474

The shadows could have done with maybe another stop of compensation but there is actually good detail there when it’s backlit fully so should scan ok.

This was the first time I’ve used the Quickload holder and film on my Chroma, which I’d popped out at lunchtime with, and was seeing how well it worked with my Manfrotto Pixi pocket tripod (I like a challenge!)

View attachment 120475

‘kin magic..
 
So you talk about Copal lens boards... does that mean a Copal shutter? I keep seeing lenses with Synchro-Compur or Seiko shutters... are they out?
 
So you talk about Copal lens boards... does that mean a Copal shutter? I keep seeing lenses with Synchro-Compur or Seiko shutters... are they out?

Copal is, as far as I can tell, the de facto standard for the size of the shutter and the corresponding hole in the front and the thread sizes on the two halfs of the lens. I think a couple of mine are Synchro shutters.
 
Handy comparison chart here...

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/lensboard_hole_sizes.html

I think nearly all of the more modern lenses will match the Copal numbers. The above lists Compur and Prontor as the same, and I suspect Seiko will be as well (but worth checking/searching). The odd ones are more likely to be on older kit that might have less appeal and potentially limited availability.

The other way to approach it s to seek out the spec on a possible lens, which should include the size of hole required (or, more usually, the Copal number).
 
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