Beginner advice for Manual Flash of camera

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Joe
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Hello, I'm looking for some hints and tips, as to where I should start manual settings wise, in regards to using a flash off camera in a table top studio setting.

I am new to flash photography & have an Olympus Micro 4/3 camera along with an Hahnel Modus 360 flash speadlight, with off camera Viper attachment. I have a little table top style studio where I'm planning to get creative with using inanimate objects & the flash off camera on a light stand, to hopefully create fun creative images, which I also hope to learn how to play with on Lightroom/Photoshop.

But to begin with I wondered if anyone could offer any hints or tips on what Manual settings to start with on the flash, when using it off camera on a light stand, as a starting point, which will hopefully go on to teach me how & when i should be changing power & zoom setting ect.. ?

Many Thanks in advance :)
 
This is a good question.
With "table top" photography you'll often want to use a small lens aperture to maximise the DOF (depth of field) * but because of diffraction limitation you shouldn't use an aperture smaller than f/8 on a micro 4/3 format camera, so set the lens to f/8.

Generally, even with a flashgun, you'll have more than enough power in this situation, so set the ISO as low as it will go.

All that the shutter actually does when using flash is to be open when the flash fires, unless there is a very high level of ambient light the shutter speed doesn't affect exposure, so set the shutter speed to something like 1/125th. The maximum that will work with your camera is 1/250th, so in theory you can set it to that, but there isn't really any point.

Then adjust the power setting on the flash to produce the right exposure, using either the histogram or trial and error, it's as simple as that.

It isn't really that simple of course, and you'll need to experiment, but those settings will get you going.

* If you use a smaller f number you'll get an overall loss of sharpness, so try to avoid doing so. Once you've got to grips with the project and with your software you can use focus stacking to achieve the DOF that you want.
 
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This is a good question.
With "table top" photography you'll often want to use a small lens aperture to maximise the DOF (depth of field) * but because of diffraction limitation you shouldn't use an aperture smaller than f/8 on a micro 4/3 format camera, so set the lens to f/8.

Generally, even with a flashgun, you'll have more than enough power in this situation, so set the ISO as low as it will go.

All that the shutter actually does when using flash is to be open when the flash fires, unless there is a very high level of ambient light the shutter speed doesn't affect exposure, so set the shutter speed to something like 1/125th. The maximum that will work with your camera is 1/250th, so in theory you can set it to that, but there isn't really any point.

Then adjust the power setting on the flash to produce the right exposure, using either the histogram or trial and error, it's as simple as that.

It isn't really that simple of course, and you'll need to experiment, but those settings will get you going.

* If you use a smaller f number you'll get an overall loss of sharpness, so try to avoid doing so. Once you've got to grips with the project and with your software you can use focus stacking to achieve the DOF that you want.

Thank you very much Garry for this very helpful advice, you have definitely given me some thought to get me started.

One question following your advice though if I may, is you mention using a Histogram to help decide the flash power I should be using. Are you able to offer any good advice or direct me to any good tutorials as it were to learn how to use a histogram? or that aside would you say i'm better going with the second option and just trail and error with the different power settings until i get my desired effect?

Also in regards to the zoom feature, is this best to leave on auto to begin with & focus on power for now?

Thanks again for all you help :)
 
There are innumerable tutorials on using the histogram feature available, take your pick:)
But for now, trial and error may be the best way forward - simply because although the histogram will help you to achieve the "correct" exposure, sometimes it's better to go with what looks right - rather than what is technically correct.

If you're using the flashgun "bare" then the zoom will enable you to concentrate all of the power where it's needed (without wasting any of it illuminating areas where it isn't doing anything) but when you're using modifiers such as a softbox you'll generally get better results if you set the zoom to the widest possible.

Right now, the main challenges for you will be getting the camera position, camera height and composition right, and then arranging the flash height and position, I don't think I would worry about peripherals such as flash zoom setting at this stage.
 
There are innumerable tutorials on using the histogram feature available, take your pick:)
But for now, trial and error may be the best way forward - simply because although the histogram will help you to achieve the "correct" exposure, sometimes it's better to go with what looks right - rather than what is technically correct.

If you're using the flashgun "bare" then the zoom will enable you to concentrate all of the power where it's needed (without wasting any of it illuminating areas where it isn't doing anything) but when you're using modifiers such as a softbox you'll generally get better results if you set the zoom to the widest possible.

Right now, the main challenges for you will be getting the camera position, camera height and composition right, and then arranging the flash height and position, I don't think I would worry about peripherals such as flash zoom setting at this stage.

Fab! thank you Garry for the further advice. You have given me some good indication now, where & how to start off and with your help I now feel happy to just start playing. :)

Cheers Joe
 
Just to add to Garry’s excellent advice.

Auto-Zoom heads on flashguns are a bit of a gimmick.

the point of them is to create only the circle of light that is covered by the lens. But for that to be useful requires the flashgun to be camera mounted and pointing straight ahead. But that provides light of a type you’ll rarely want to use. As soon as you bounce the flash or take it off camera, the zoom stops zooming automatically as it can’t work out what it needs to be set at. (No real loss as you want to be in control)

back to your table top: you’ll either want to mimic a window light or do something more dramatic.

the easiest way to mimic a window is to buy or build your own softbox.
 
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Just to add to Garry’s excellent advice.

Auto-Zoom heads on flashguns are a bit of a gimmick.

the point of them is to create only the circle of light that is covered by the lens. But for that to be useful requires the flashgun to be camera mounted and pointing straight ahead. But that provides light of a type you’ll rarely want to use. As soon as you bounce the flash or take it off camera, the zoom stops zooming automatically as it can’t work out what it needs to be set at. (No real loss as you want to be in control)

back to your table top: you’ll either want to mimic a window light or do something more dramatic.

the easiest way to mimic a window is to buy or build your own softbox.

Thankyou for this added advice Phil, much appreciated :)
 
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