Any experts in dry lining in the house?

Mr Bump

Mr Bump

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I'm about to start a small drylining project and wondered if anyone in that business on here?

I have two downstairs room sitting on a 125 year old freezing cold gable end, no damp issues in the gable end but we get a lot of condensation issues simply due to how bloody cold the gable end gets during winter.

I have decided the only real way forward is to dryline the two rooms on the gable end wall, initial thoughts are as below.

1. take off original plaster back to brick (messy but easy)
2. repair internal pointing as i suspect the 125 year old walls might need a bit of TLC with sand and cement.
3. batten out with 50mmx25mm wood to give a 50mm recess depth.
4. 50mm tight fitting kingspan TP10 across the whole wall surface between batttons (450mm witth?)
5. waterproof membrane across the whole section once compete stapled to the battons.
6. then complete with fire lined plaster board and thin skim.

reading up this should bring the thermal efficiency of the wall way up and hence cancel out the issue?

any thoughts?
 
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If you can afford to lose another 50mm of floor space, I would suggest putt the battons in front of the insulation, rather than in the same layer. This will reduce thermal bridging and improve the U value.

Use a VCL membrane on the warm side of the insulation and use an appropriate sealant on lapped joints, perimeter and patch any holes. A 1mm hole through a VCL is enough to make it ineffective.

Also consider once finished, any light switches, sockets, nails to hang pictures etc that you put on the wall will penetrate the VCL.

Whether the quantity of insulation you propose is sufficient is guesswork without a thermal assessment, but anything will be an improvement.

Where do you notice condensation?
 
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bass_junkie83 said:
If you can afford to lose another 50mm of floor space, I would suggest putt the battons in front of the insulation, rather than in the same layer. This will reduce thermal bridging and improve the U value.

Use a VCL membrane on the warm side of the insulation and use an appropriate sealant on lapped joints, perimeter and patch any holes. A 1mm hole through a VCL is enough to make it ineffective.

Also consider once finished, any light switches, sockets, nails to hang pictures etc that you put on the wall will penetrate the VCL.

Whether the quantity of insulation you propose is sufficient is guesswork without a thermal assessment, but anything will be an improvement.

Where do you notice condensation?
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1. interesting thought there regarding the battons, I can't afford another 50mm but I could batten in front with say 20mm seeing as the spaces are small and the plaster board on top, that's worth me thinking about, just for thought would you also use a plastic membrane on the brick first to go in front of the Kingspan?

2. there are no switches or sockets of any kind on that wall

3. 50mm seems to be overkill to be honest when i look at other peopls builds, also the room is big so i decided 50mm.

4. its an odd one, the wall used to be papered which we have removed and the problem is much less, basically is used to "bloom" in the paper. The condensation side is not to be fair the biggest issue, its more how cold the room can be due to the heat being lost at the gable end wall.
 
This is a photo down the long end of the room with gable end in view. 2 alcoves and the old fireplace. IMG_20200727_122114.jpg
 
A couple of thoughts.

Is there enough space beyond the end of the radiator, or are you going to have to move the radiator? This is not a deal breaker but if the rad needs moving it is a bit of a pain.

Are either of the other two walls external ones? If so then, putting Kingspan on it would be a good idea too.

Having said that we had 50mm Kingspan put on the external walls of a cold room and the difference is amazing.

Dave
 
Tringa said:
A couple of thoughts.

Is there enough space beyond the end of the radiator, or are you going to have to move the radiator? This is not a deal breaker but if the rad needs moving it is a bit of a pain.

Are either of the other two walls external ones? If so then, putting Kingspan on it would be a good idea too.

Having said that we had 50mm Kingspan put on the external walls of a cold room and the difference is amazing.

Dave
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Hi Dave there is sufficient room at the rad end, it is more than it looks , the left hand wall is internal and the right hand wall is external but in a better sheltered location so oddly doesn.t get as much wind and hence stays warmer, it would be a real pain to do that wall with windows and rads.
 
Dunkeld1962 said:
Don't use sand and cement to point stone work as it stops the wall from breathing
Click to expand...

fair point, to be honest after reading a few technical documents today I think one of the best things that keeps getting mentioned is installing an air void and I think that I am steering towards that at the brick side @bass_junkie83 indicated, so battens on brick with a membrane under the batton (25x38) then Kingspan 50mm on top of the battens, using measured length drywall screws to fix to battens then a vapour membrane (belts and braces) and then plasterboard screwed into the Kingspan (I think) ?
 
@bass_junkie83 so here are a few pictures now I have hacked off about a metre on the rececces and a bit less on the fireplace.
 
Generally there is not much damp just a lot of really old brickIMG_20200729_160322.jpgIMG_20200729_160325.jpgIMG_20200729_160331.jpg
 
The pointing is looking a bit rough so you can imagine that there is very little resistance to vapour passing through the wall. This is not necessarily a bad thing as you want to trap moisture inside, but if it is a solid wall masonry wall then it will get cold so if you are getting condensation it isn't surprising. I am sure your plans will be a vast improvement on the current situation.
 
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