Shutter shock/af accuracy questions

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LodgePark

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Henry
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Looking to buy a budget but high quality interchangeable lens camera system for landscapes, travel and general photography.

Wanting something small, and thought of Nikon 3xxx/5xxx series. I'm thinking that the 24mp sensor in the Nikons will be hard to beat, also dx zoooms can be picked up very economically, eg with rise of mirrorless, the 3 or 5 body, 10/20, 18/55mm, 70/300 afp lenses are well priced and good performers.

One thing that bothers me a bit is shutter shock - do the Nikon light undamped bodies/lens combinations suffer from shutter shake, I remember small inexpensive bodies suffering shutter shake - older m43 gear? Also how good is the af accuracy say on a D5300, as can get one for a good price. No point in having a good sensor if your picture is spoilt by shutter shock or missed focus, would like to print at A3 and view on ageing 5K iMac.

Comments appreciated on best inexpensive gear that works.

Henry
 
I've not heard of shutter shock being a problem on Nikon 3XXX/5XXX bodies, and for their era the AF on those was fine. APS-C will print to A3 without trouble, but do make sure you get pro/enthusiast quality lenses (i.e. not kit/consumer lenses like the 18-55 f3.5-5.6) if image quality is of high importance.
 
Like a lot of folk ,you seem to have picked up a snippet of information and taken it as gospel ... as long as you use most cameras systems made in the last several years there’s no problem
 
the black fox said:
Like a lot of folk ,you seem to have picked up a snippet of information and taken it as gospel ... as long as you use most cameras systems made in the last several years there’s no problem
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Er... sadly no. Shutter shock is a real issue with some camera and lens combinations and that's the key, it's specific camera models when used with specific lenses that show the issue when used with the cameras mechanical shutter at certain shutter speed settings.

Having said that Toni may be right and this may not be an issue with the cameras Henry is looking at.
 
Yup, shutter shock is a problem on the Sony A7R, Olympus E-M10, though it can be prevented using electronic first curtain shutter on the Oly. I'm sure there's plenty of others I don't know of.
 
Yep got rid of my A7R because of shutter shock, so it's definitely real. Ruined so many of my shots.
 
ancient_mariner said:
Yup, shutter shock is a problem on the Sony A7R, Olympus E-M10, though it can be prevented using electronic first curtain shutter on the Oly. I'm sure there's plenty of others I don't know of.
Click to expand...

With the Olympus E-M1 and E-M5ii I always use electronic first curtain for the same reason but of course Olympus make real changes to cameras through firmware to sort problems and add new functionality
 
LodgePark said:
Looking to buy a budget but high quality interchangeable lens camera system for landscapes, travel and general photography.

Wanting something small, and thought of Nikon 3xxx/5xxx series. I'm thinking that the 24mp sensor in the Nikons will be hard to beat, also dx zoooms can be picked up very economically, eg with rise of mirrorless, the 3 or 5 body, 10/20, 18/55mm, 70/300 afp lenses are well priced and good performers.

One thing that bothers me a bit is shutter shock - do the Nikon light undamped bodies/lens combinations suffer from shutter shake, I remember small inexpensive bodies suffering shutter shake - older m43 gear? Also how good is the af accuracy say on a D5300, as can get one for a good price. No point in having a good sensor if your picture is spoilt by shutter shock or missed focus, would like to print at A3 and view on ageing 5K iMac.

Comments appreciated on best inexpensive gear that works.

Henry
Click to expand...
Thanks for your post - I thought I knew about most aspects of photography but wasn't aware of shutter shock. I thought the only issue was mirror-slap, which can be solved with live mode but having looked into it shutter shock is a separate issue. It also looks like most canon cameras have EFCS which helps reduce this, but only Nikon D810, D850 and Z-series cameras have it. Apparently it's only shutter speeds of 1" to around 1/30 that cause an issue (and worse on longer lenses), which if you're hand holding I guess you'd be above that anyway. I'm often in that range with my camera on a tripod so maybe I've unknowingly suffered!
 
If you use kit that can create shutter shock it can manifest as anything from a slightly soft image through to a slight double image.

My Panasonic G7 and GX7 MTF cameras used to do it. At the time I spent quite a bit of time testing lenses and trying to pin it down but I eventually gave up. As far as I can remember it occurred at shutter speeds from 1/60 to 1/160 or so but it's rapidly fading from my memory. What I do remember is that switching to the electronic shutter cures it but doing so brings other problems such as banding under some artificial lighting making those cameras effectively unusable in some situations such as indoor social shooting when the shutter speed will probably be smack in the affected range making the mechanical shutter unusable because of shock and the electronic shutter unusable because of banding.

Knowing what camera and lens combinations are affected and at what shutter speed is crucial and then you need to know if there's anything you can do to stop it... such as using EFCS or if the lighting isn't an issue using an electronic shutter. It's difficult to know what lenses come into this though, for example I was surprise to find that when using my Minolta Rokkor 50mm f1.2 I could regularly see the issue in the affected shutter speed range.
 
woof woof said:
If you use kit that can create shutter shock it can manifest as anything from a slightly soft image through to a slight double image.

My Panasonic G7 and GX7 MTF cameras used to do it. At the time I spent quite a bit of time testing lenses and trying to pin it down but I eventually gave up. As far as I can remember it occurred at shutter speeds from 1/60 to 1/160 or so but it's rapidly fading from my memory. What I do remember is that switching to the electronic shutter cures it but doing so brings other problems such as banding under some artificial lighting making those cameras effectively unusable in some situations such as indoor social shooting when the shutter speed will probably be smack in the affected range making the mechanical shutter unusable because of shock and the electronic shutter unusable because of banding.

Knowing what camera and lens combinations are affected and at what shutter speed is crucial and then you need to know if there's anything you can do to stop it... such as using EFCS or if the lighting isn't an issue using an electronic shutter. It's difficult to know what lenses come into this though, for example I was surprise to find that when using my Minolta Rokkor 50mm f1.2 I could regularly see the issue in the affected shutter speed range.
Click to expand...
What's the difference between electronic shutter and EFCS?
 
My Wife's E-M10 did it with both 14-42 pancake and 40-150 tele, showing itself as a general OOF-looking blur most of the time. Changed to EFCS and suddenly we started getting sharp images.
 
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