Common mistakes for Beginner landscape photographers

armandoluiz said:
One more: to follow all the "rules" of photography, for example: rules of thirds!
Click to expand...
Worst rule ever invented. Leads to vast numbers of formulaic, lifeless pictures. Place things in the frame where they need to be for an Interesting picture.
 
I'll offer some advice I've learned over the eons

- tripod is a MUST for even semi serious landscape photography

- dressing for later. Big one a lot of people realize too late. Even in summer, and extra sweater doesn't hurt. Hard to focus on imaging when you're physically uncomfortable

- long exposures aren't a must, but gradient filters are. You'll never do a top notch sunset /sunrise without them

- don't expose as long as you can, just because you can. Sometimes 10 seconds is better than 2 minutes.

- Clean up your shot before you take it. A stream with some small branches in mid view / a branch clipping a corner / paper bag wadded up off to the side. Take the extra time to 'garden' your shots. Saves you PP time, thus degrading the image ( if you're printing ). And it adds a little pride in the shot you actually helped create.

- don't try to emulate anyone. I find a LOT of landscape shooters do this. Find YOUR way. Find the composition YOU like and try to emulate THAT in all your landscape images. Basically creating a signature of your work.
 
dslk said:
- tripod is a MUST for even semi serious landscape photography
Click to expand...

Plenty of daylight photography situations do not require tripod at all, but obviously it doesn't hurt to use one anyway

dslk said:
- long exposures aren't a must, but gradient filters are. You'll never do a top notch sunset /sunrise without them
Click to expand...

That's total bull. Perhaps you should have elaborated which filter company you represent.

dslk said:
- don't expose as long as you can, just because you can. Sometimes 10 seconds is better than 2 minutes.
Click to expand...

In other words optimal duration of exposure may depend on the subject and artistic decision.
 
LongLensPhotography said:
Plenty of daylight photography situations do not require tripod at all, but obviously it doesn't hurt to use one anyway

That's total bull. Perhaps you should have elaborated which filter company you represent.

In other words optimal duration of exposure may depend on the subject and artistic decision.
Click to expand...

Thanks bud - saved me some typing there :)

Dave
 
dslk said:
I'll offer some advice I've learned over the eons

- tripod is a MUST for even semi serious landscape photography

- dressing for later. Big one a lot of people realize too late. Even in summer, and extra sweater doesn't hurt. Hard to focus on imaging when you're physically uncomfortable

- long exposures aren't a must, but gradient filters are. You'll never do a top notch sunset /sunrise without them

- don't expose as long as you can, just because you can. Sometimes 10 seconds is better than 2 minutes.

- Clean up your shot before you take it. A stream with some small branches in mid view / a branch clipping a corner / paper bag wadded up off to the side. Take the extra time to 'garden' your shots. Saves you PP time, thus degrading the image ( if you're printing ). And it adds a little pride in the shot you actually helped create.

- don't try to emulate anyone. I find a LOT of landscape shooters do this. Find YOUR way. Find the composition YOU like and try to emulate THAT in all your landscape images. Basically creating a signature of your work.
Click to expand...

Plenty of good advice here but grad filters aren't necessary - if you're happy to spend some time on the computer exposure blending will achieve a natural result, potentially better than filters where the straight line of the grad can unnaturally darken a mountain peak as well as the sky etc. Can't argue with the rest.
 
LongLensPhotography said:
Plenty of daylight photography situations do not require tripod at all,
Click to expand...
This is very true. With modern digital cameras, a tripod is only useful for specialised subjects and then: not that often. In my opinion, the worst thing you can do when recording landscapes iis to be a pretend painter. I'd recommend using the smallest, lightest camera available, moving frequently and making many images. Most of them won't seem worth keeping but some will please.
 
AndrewFlannigan said:
This is very true. With modern digital cameras, a tripod is only useful for specialised subjects and then: not that often. In my opinion, the worst thing you can do when recording landscapes iis to be a pretend painter. I'd recommend using the smallest, lightest camera available, moving frequently and making many images. Most of them won't seem worth keeping but some will please.
Click to expand...

Just one drawback with the take lots of shots bit, part of being a landscape photographer is looking at, absorbing and enjoying the countryside around you, I would say take your time, look and think about the composition you want and then set up and take the shot.
Always try to use low ASA settings, even if that means you carry a tripod where others wouldn't
 
Like so many things it depends on a number of factors, for me at least. If I am walking and/or the light is changing quickly then I will probably take a lot of shots, if I am spending more time in one location or the light is changing slowly I will probably take fewer
 
Karl.t1965 said:
I would say take your time, look and think about the composition you want and then set up and take the shot.
Click to expand...
We'll have to agree to disagree there. My view is: to enjoy life quaff, don't sip. :beer:
 
AndrewFlannigan said:
We'll have to agree to disagree there. My view is: to enjoy life quaff, don't sip. [emoji481]
Click to expand...
sirch said:
Like so many things it depends on a number of factors, for me at least. If I am walking and/or the light is changing quickly then I will probably take a lot of shots, if I am spending more time in one location or the light is changing slowly I will probably take fewer
Click to expand...
Karl.t1965 said:
Just one drawback with the take lots of shots bit, part of being a landscape photographer is looking at, absorbing and enjoying the countryside around you, I would say take your time, look and think about the composition you want and then set up and take the shot.
Always try to use low ASA settings, even if that means you carry a tripod where others wouldn't
Click to expand...
My advice is to choose which aproach suits you!
I also use both techniques sometimes at the same time. One camera on the tripod and one in hand. It works for me.
 
I haven't attempted any serious landscapes, as yet. But it seems plain to me that some things you just can't do without a tripod. I certainly wouldn't trust my ability to manually focus with a hand held camera.
 
While focussing manually with a digital camera can be a bit more difficult than with film cameras it is not too difficult.

The problem(sometimes) hand holding a camera isn't focussing, its preventing camera shake.

Dave
 
Tringa said:
While focussing manually with a digital camera can be a bit more difficult than with film cameras it is not too difficult.

The problem(sometimes) hand holding a camera isn't focussing, its preventing camera shake.

Dave
Click to expand...
The difficulty in focusing varies from one camera/lens to another. In fact with some digital cameras make it very easy even in difficult conditions.
Focus peaking on a mirrorles camera can make MF very easy.
 
alfbranch said:
The difficulty in focusing varies from one camera/lens to another. In fact with some digital cameras make it very easy even in difficult conditions.
Focus peaking on a mirrorless camera can make MF very easy.
Click to expand...

I did look at that option when it comes to manual focussing. I didn't really understand what I was looking, to be honest. I'm not sure if you want the edges to be fringed with colour or not. The object wasn't clear to me.
 
Doom Patrol said:
I did look at that option when it comes to manual focussing. I didn't really understand what I was looking, to be honest. I'm not sure if you want the edges to be fringed with colour or not. The object wasn't clear to me.
Click to expand...

It is usually quite simple the fringing appears on the objects that are in focus
 
AndrewFlannigan said:
We'll have to agree to disagree there. My view is: to enjoy life quaff, don't sip. :beer:
Click to expand...

:agree: ^^^

And, not :agree: manual focus? Really?

Many landscapers shoot well above f2.8, often f8 or above, so even if your lens isn't perfectly calibrated to the camera AF is going to work simply because the DoF is so high. I do use manual focus for image stacking (which I also rarely do) but well above 99% of the time the camera does the same or better than I could manually

And for those landscapes where I'm shooting wider than f2.8 AF is better than I'd do manually - have trust in your gear :)

Dave
 
DG Phototraining said:
:agree: ^^^

And, not :agree: manual focus? Really?

Many landscapers shoot well above f2.8, often f8 or above, so even if your lens isn't perfectly calibrated to the camera AF is going to work simply because the DoF is so high. I do use manual focus for image stacking (which I also rarely do) but well above 99% of the time the camera does the same or better than I could manually

And for those landscapes where I'm shooting wider than f2.8 AF is better than I'd do manually - have trust in your gear :)

Dave
Click to expand...

Agree - all the camera makers spend, millions, maybe billions designing AF systems that are incredible. I very rarely use MF but if you use live view and zoom in you can get it good also. Most AF systems work well even in quite low contrast scenes.
 
One of the big lessons I learned about composition - either include it in the scene or don't at all.

If something doesn't add to the scene or even distracts, then try and move it out of the frame or zoom in further. This isn't always possible in busier scenes (woodland for example) but it's still relevant - remove or reduce the elements from the picture that don't add anything.
 
Trappe said:
Try and keep a reasonable fitness level...... it does help ;-)
Click to expand...
That's one reason why I am getting back into landscape photography. It gives me a purpose to walk and put up with the pain from my knees and hips! Hopefully, I will lose a few pounds of blubber and gain muscle to compensate!
 
I've just slogged thr..., er, enjoyed all 10 pages of this thread. I found the cyclical return to the HDR/grad filters/aperture size quite funny. FWIW, I think HDR doesn't kill images, people do, although I am in favour of careful controls to safeguard the eyes of the viewing public.

I also shy away from those "rules" of composition which are a blunt attempt to classify the indefinable. There are no rules, only consequences.

I am surprised though (unless I missed it) that nobody mentioned that budding landscape photographers should always check they have one or more SD cards (or films) with them before they get up before dawn and slog miles across muddy fields with all that gear....
 
Stegosaurus said:
I've just slogged thr..., er, enjoyed all 10 pages of this thread. I found the cyclical return to the HDR/grad filters/aperture size quite funny. FWIW, I think HDR doesn't kill images, people do, although I am in favour of careful controls to safeguard the eyes of the viewing public.

I also shy away from those "rules" of composition which are a blunt attempt to classify the indefinable. There are no rules, only consequences.

I am surprised though (unless I missed it) that nobody mentioned that budding landscape photographers should always check they have one or more SD cards (or films) with them before they get up before dawn and slog miles across muddy fields with all that gear....
Click to expand...

Your fortitude is admirable. ;)

As for SD cards/Films/Batteries, the thread is about common mistakes, and those things are usually of a nature that they only happen once if the tog is capable of learning....
 
Pretty niche subject but....

Being colour blind is the biggest single challenge with my photography. Most of the time this is fine but when using filters its very hard for me to tell if there is a subtle colour cast left by the filter, especially 10 stops. A tip is watch some youtube videos of how to use the black, grey and white point to remove casts in photoshop. You don't necessarily need to see the colour cast to use this.

Also get your non-colour blind partner or mate to check before you upload. The amount of times I've uploaded apparently pink seascapes..:banghead:

Interesting if there are any other colour blind togs on here?
 
Some from me - they work for me and may not for you :)

I stopped using grad filters a few years ago. They work fine but are not as effective as good exposure blending in scenes that have objects that cross into the area you are trying to reduce exposure in. They also always mist up and require constant checking on cooler mornings. They also make a permanent change to the image - one that cannot be removed later.

Not all landscape photography needs a tripod. I have now purchased a clip to mount my camera on the strap for the walk into and out of the location I am visiting. I have missed some great shots by not having the camera to hand. I use auto ISO and then can quickly set the shutter speed and aperture to what the scene needs.

Don't be afraid of using higher ISO - not all shots have to be at ISO 100 or lower.

Since moving to Sony I manually focus all the time. A lot of the time I use a zone focus system and know what settings to use with the 2 main lenses I use. This is REALLY useful when you arrive on top of a hill in the dark and want to run a 3 minute exposure to capture the mist rolling through the valley - but you can't see further than 10 feet away :D I remember my DSLR days when I used to be shining the head torch on a rock and trying to get the camera to focus on it.

You will never find the perfect camera bag & the more you buy the angrier your wife / partner will become :) (I think I have 15 of them - bags - not wives)

Always arrive early and stay later - sunrise and sunset don't happen at the exact time the app tells you. The colour will all depend on the height of the clouds in your scene. I would get there an hour before sunrise if possible and stay at least 20 minutes after sunset.

Always chat with the people you meet while out with the camera - dog walkers are a great source of information about other areas to visit around that location.

There is no right or wrong way to take photographs - do what makes you happy.
 
Last edited:
Rossjukes said:
Very personal opinion but I often see 'new' landscape photographers buying/carrying too much gear, nothing spoils a good landscape shoot quicker than lugging a really heavy bag full of everything you own, my back is knackered because of this :D
Click to expand...

Smaller / lighter kit is the way I have gone. I sold my 24-70 F2.8 and 70-200 F4 and replaced them with a Tamron 28-200. Now I have 2 lenses and 16 to 200mm covered. I pack the camera, lenses, circular filters, batteries and all the other bits I need into a Tenba BYOB. This then fits into either a Osprey hiking rucksack for long hikes, a small rucksack for short hikes or will take a shoulder strap and act just like a shoulder bag if I don't need to carry spare clothing / water.
The Osprey bag is so much more comfortable than any photography rucksack I ever owned (I have had many!) and makes long hikes enjoyable now.

Dave.
 
Dave Semmens said:
Smaller / lighter kit is the way I have gone. I sold my 24-70 F2.8 and 70-200 F4 and replaced them with a Tamron 28-200. Now I have 2 lenses and 16 to 200mm covered. I pack the camera, lenses, circular filters, batteries and all the other bits I need into a Tenba BYOB. This then fits into either a Osprey hiking rucksack for long hikes, a small rucksack for short hikes or will take a shoulder strap and act just like a shoulder bag if I don't need to carry spare clothing / water.
Click to expand...
Can I ask which one you use please? I'm fed up of my camera backpack and have been looking to go down the rucksack/insert route for a while now. I use a Z5 and two lenses so I'm thinking maybe the BYOB9 would be suitable.
 
Last edited:
Yes, I'm colour-blind too, which means that I *rarely* do any post image processing which might impact the colour. Whatever the camera captures (colour wise) I try and stick with (I occasionally boost saturation/hue to 'pep' up shots, but that's about it.
 
tangerine_sedge said:
Yes, I'm colour-blind too, which means that I *rarely* do any post image processing which might impact the colour. Whatever the camera captures (colour wise) I try and stick with (I occasionally boost saturation/hue to 'pep' up shots, but that's about it.
Click to expand...
Monochrome was invented for a reason.
 
If the main subject of your composition is distant, a wide angle lens may not be the best choice.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top