Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

Box Brownie said:
It may come to that but I was hoping for a smaller bag to take limited kit out i.e. just one long lens with a TC attached? Though I mentioned the Lowepro 75, nothing that Lowepro make in the toploader style can take that length........................nor do ThinkTank :thinking:

The the Flipside 400 or similar will........but??? Oh, for times when I would want to take more gear e.g. foreign holidays, just how aircraft overhead locker friendly is the Flipside 400???
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I've taken a flipside 400 on as hand luggage on several flights.
I sold it and bought a 300 when I changed to m43.
When I got my A7ii and 200-600mm I sold the 300 and bought another 400.
 
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Bobsyeruncle said:
I've taken a flipside 400 on as hand luggage on several flights.
I sold it and bought a 300 when I changed to m43.
When I got my A7ii and 200-600mm I sold the 300 and bought another 400.
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Thanks for the insights :)

Based on dimensions the 400 is marginal....................all it takes is a "jobs worth" and the fun:( might start. But then again I have seen some huge cabin roller cases it beggars belief how they would pass the test if challenged :LOL:

I think for 2021 I doubt we will be doing any air travel (perhaps to Scotland?) so maybe the 400 is a good UK and potential overseas option with slimmed down kit in a smaller bag when needed. Though I still think I might get more use out of a toploader style for day trips out to hides and or walks, if I could find one big enough for the max size I would need???
 
I have a 300 and and one of the lightweight sport 20L ones in orange nylon bought used on here . Which I find better with deeper pockets . The whole interior lifts out if needed as well .they are no longer made . But can be found on e.bay .

But to be honest due to the weatherproofing on camera / lens combos most times I just take our camera combo with a spare battery and t.c in a pocket . No need for a bag ,travelling light is a delight
 
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Have a look a Think tank 50 digital holster I use one it holds my em1 mark 2 and grip along with either the 100-400 or the 300 along with the 1.4 and 2.0 TC room for a spare battery as well
 
I have been using a Lowepro 450 AW ProTactic for about 5 years and have travelled with it as cabin luggage on many flights - It fits in overhead lockers and you just have to keep it under 10kg for most airlines.

It will carry my MX1+100-400mm+TC all mounted and, as you say, works best with righthand grip uppermost. It will also carry my second MX1+40-150mm+TC or 300mm unmounted.

Because I do a lot of photography from beaches and in all weathers, often from dawn-til-dusk, I have its built-in waterproof cover out all the time (except on planes). So in effect I have a semi-rigid 'box' with a zipped lid and don't have to worry about putting it down on wet (or dry) sand for example. I carry a tough nylon brush in the car to brush it down after a session.

The 150-400mm+1.25x will fit when it arrives at Casa Robin.

I also have a Lowepro 300 AW II Flipside which I haven't used much yet and never as a flipside. It was the end of a line in the digital camo design and so I got a discount from WEX who are agents for Lowepro, Gitzo and Manfrotto (all brands owned by the same company) and so are able to offer very competitive prices on these brands. I can check for you what fits it if you tell me which Olympus gear @Box Brownie.

All my various bags are Lowepro - They simply do everything I need them to do and are extremely durable. I even have a soft Lowepro 300 Photo Sport BP AW II lightweight backpack which can be useful because it can carry non-photo stuff as well but it's not designed for the bigger lenses.

A DAY IN THE OFFICE! by Robin Procter, on Flickr
 
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RedRobin said:
I have been using a Lowepro 450 AW ProTactic for about 5 years and have travelled with it as cabin luggage on many flights - It fits in overhead lockers and you just have to keep it under 10kg for most airlines.

It will carry my MX1+100-400mm+TC all mounted and, as you say, works best with righthand grip uppermost. It will also carry my second MX1+40-150mm+TC or 300mm unmounted.

Because I do a lot of photography from beaches and in all weathers, often from dawn-til-dusk, I have its built-in waterproof cover out all the time (except on planes). So in effect I have a semi-rigid 'box' with a zipped lid and don't have to worry about putting it down on wet (or dry) sand for example. I carry a tough nylon brush in the car to brush it down after a session.

The 150-400mm+1.25x will fit when it arrives at Casa Robin.

I also have a Lowepro 300 AW II Flipside which I haven't used much yet and never as a flipside. It was the end of a line in the digital camo design and so I got a discount from WEX who are agents for Lowepro, Gitzo and Manfrotto (all brands owned by the same company) and so are able to offer very competitive prices on these brands. I can check for you what fits it if you tell me which Olympus gear @Box Brownie.

All my various bags are Lowepro - They simply do everything I need them to do and are extremely durable. I even have a soft Lowepro 300 Photo Sport BP AW II lightweight backpack which can be useful because it can carry non-photo stuff as well but it's not designed for the bigger lenses.

A DAY IN THE OFFICE! by Robin Procter, on Flickr
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Robin on a different tack ,when your using your tripod with the Olympus do you leave the i.s on or turn it off .. I mean on the lens , not yet used my tripod but if the circumstances occur just wondering on best methods
 
the black fox said:
Robin on a different tack ,when your using your tripod with the Olympus do you leave the i.s on or turn it off .. I mean on the lens , not yet used my tripod but if the circumstances occur just wondering on best methods
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.... I never switch my lens IS switch to Off. My understanding is that all modern IS systems compensate for camera movement only when the camera has movement so by leaving it on it will apply IS only if and when needed.

You could argue that on a tripod there shouldn't be any movement but your hands are usually on the camera and lens while operating it (except with cable release or remote) and so there will be movement, especially on a gimbal or moving head while tracking/panning. The IS will consume some battery juice but not enough to matter and especially with 2 batteries in the chamber of a M1X.

Think of a tripod as a monopod with two extra legs - A monopod definitely has movement. My Gitzo Traveller looks a bit flimsy but it's very stable indeed, especially with Gitzo BigFoot ball feet which I strongly recommend.

I only use my tripod if I want to maintain a position for long periods so I am arms and hands free and I always set it to a level horizon before shooting.

As my tripod head has a Quick Release lever it means that if I quickly take the camera off my tripod I don't have to remember to or lose time faffing with the IS switch.
 
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thats what I wanted to hear robin and as we both use similar equipment I'll take that as read . I'm contemplating it on two counts one the weather being drachmas and two the often long wait for action in winter ..

btwyour M1X needs two batteries as it uses more power on my 1-mkii I have often taken in excess of 600 shots and still had loads of battery life left .. and thats with my EVF live all the time to
 
the black fox said:
I have a 300 and and one of the lightweight sport 20L ones in orange nylon bought used on here . Which I find better with deeper pockets . The whole interior lifts out if needed as well .they are no longer made . But can be found on e.bay .

But to be honest due to the weatherproofing on camera / lens combos most times I just take our camera combo with a spare battery and t.c in a pocket . No need for a bag ,travelling light is a delight
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Thanks, I have taken a closer look at my Flipside 300 AW and with the small pouch at the top of the bag removed the M1X with the 300mm & x2 TC will fit though be a snug zipup.

So it should/will work in the short term until I decide otherwise??? It will mean that as needed I can take out the 300 and the 40-150 in the same bag.......oh the weight is going up :LOL:

For the contents of the pouch I will have to look for one of those Lowepro clipon bags?


mazdaman said:
Have a look a Think tank 50 digital holster I use one it holds my em1 mark 2 and grip along with either the 100-400 or the 300 along with the 1.4 and 2.0 TC room for a spare battery as well
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Ah! I will have another look at Think Tank but thought I look at all the holster ones and none had internal length of greater than 30cm???

RedRobin said:
I have been using a Lowepro 450 AW ProTactic for about 5 years and have travelled with it as cabin luggage on many flights - It fits in overhead lockers and you just have to keep it under 10kg for most airlines.

It will carry my MX1+100-400mm+TC all mounted and, as you say, works best with righthand grip uppermost. It will also carry my second MX1+40-150mm+TC or 300mm unmounted.

Because I do a lot of photography from beaches and in all weathers, often from dawn-til-dusk, I have its built-in waterproof cover out all the time (except on planes). So in effect I have a semi-rigid 'box' with a zipped lid and don't have to worry about putting it down on wet (or dry) sand for example. I carry a tough nylon brush in the car to brush it down after a session.

The 150-400mm+1.25x will fit when it arrives at Casa Robin.

I also have a Lowepro 300 AW II Flipside which I haven't used much yet and never as a flipside. It was the end of a line in the digital camo design and so I got a discount from WEX who are agents for Lowepro, Gitzo and Manfrotto (all brands owned by the same company) and so are able to offer very competitive prices on these brands. I can check for you what fits it if you tell me which Olympus gear @Box Brownie.

All my various bags are Lowepro - They simply do everything I need them to do and are extremely durable. I even have a soft Lowepro 300 Photo Sport BP AW II lightweight backpack which can be useful because it can carry non-photo stuff as well but it's not designed for the bigger lenses.

A DAY IN THE OFFICE! by Robin Procter, on Flickr
Click to expand...

Thanks for the confirmation of my thought above re: packing orientation :)

A lot of gear to transport..........something I am trying to reduce where/when I can, in part by (re)defining what & why will I need which items of my kit such as say in reply to @the black fox i.e. one body and both the 40-150 & 300 in the bag to be swapped as needed? The "future think" would be a question of whether I ever need a bag big enough to have the mk3 in the mix attached to the other lens.

But as mentioned in another thread my intention is to use the mk3 & 12-40mm as day out set in a small bag?

PS I did a Kingfisher hide session at the start of 2020 where only other guy in the hide had two combo's in use (Nikon ;) ) and that meant he was in effect occupying 'two seats'........(.using cabled releases and live view).......I was not 100% happy about that but that is another matter :thinking:
 
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Taking myriads of gear is something I steer well clear of these days .I rarely in fact take off the 100-400 , the wife has a 75-300 for when she decides to come out and play .. and the only other lens we currently have is a 12-50 as neither of us would have use for wide angles or short reach lenses ..
But that could change when finances do , I’m also debating whether it’s worth keeping the 1.4 tc as it’s just as easy to crop a bit more from a 400 mm shot .mull it over at xmas
 
The amount of Olympus gear I have just means that I have more choice to pack what I need into one backpack according to the mission of the day. My Lowepro is just a protective container if/when I need to carry more than two bodies, each with a lens mounted, in the field. In fact the way I look at it is that I am only carrying two lenses but each has a control module (body) mounted.

What I carry is totally dependent on the target subject and on wildlife walkabout I usually only carry one body + lens mounted and leave the Lowepro in the car or at home if I'm going local.

Olympus gear is a lot easier than Canon! :

RP_08521.jpg
 
RedRobin said:
The amount of Olympus gear I have just means that I have more choice to pack what I need into one backpack according to the mission of the day. My Lowepro is just a protective container if/when I need to carry more than two bodies, each with a lens mounted, in the field. In fact the way I look at it is that I am only carrying two lenses but each has a control module (body) mounted.

What I carry is totally dependent on the target subject and on wildlife walkabout I usually only carry one body + lens mounted and leave the Lowepro in the car or at home if I'm going local.

Olympus gear is a lot easier than Canon! :

View attachment 301948
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Yup, all down to the correct exposure tackle for the day ;)
 
Pair of good shots robin,think I would have lifted the shadows on the surfers face though
 
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the black fox said:
Pair of good shots robin,think I would have lifted the shadows on the surfers face though
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.... No, that would have lessened the detail on the spray and water. I know from experience shooting surfers and also trying it on this sequence of shots. I don't do selective or brushwork adjustments - My adjustments are always global on Olympus images.
 
no that would have lowered the highlights but brought up the details in the lowlights . :exit: :exit:
 
Neoprene lens cover for Olympus 100-400 f5-6.3. Do I need one? What do the other users of this lens think.
 
the black fox said:
no that would have lowered the highlights but brought up the details in the lowlights . :exit: :exit:
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.... I am more than happy with what I have done Jeff. Believe me when I say I have processed thousands of similar images and have fully explored the adjustment options. I still look at each image as if unique but I repeat that I am happy with the atmosphere captured on this one as a whole. It isn't my aim to give priority to the surfer's face/body and hence compromise the water or make the rest of the lighting look unnatural - It's not the same as using a reflector on a model's face.
 
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Pag said:
Neoprene lens cover for Olympus 100-400 f5-6.3. Do I need one? What do the other users of this lens think.
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.... You definitely don't need one. I have had one on the ED 100-400mm and stopped using it as it not only greatly reduces the tactile fingers-on-rings feel, especially the zoom ring due to its strongly weathersealed resistance, but if it gets soaked it retains the damp/water. The lens is the most weatherproof currently available on all cameras - None of the other brands have caught up with Olympus on this yet. Although not a Pro lens, the ED 100-400m has exactly the same standard of weatherproofing (stated by Olympus) - There are other reasons they didn't categorise this lens as a Pro.

However I have kept a neoprene cover on the lens hood only - I do this on all my telephoto lenses so I can rest the end on a rock or whatever else can help. It also helps when placing the camera on the ground or floor of a boat etc etc because the lens hood is a point of contact.

I have already started talking to manufacturers about supplying me with a neoprene cover for only the lens hood of the new 150-400mm+1.25x Pro.
 
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Pag said:
Neoprene lens cover for Olympus 100-400 f5-6.3. Do I need one? What do the other users of this lens think.
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I agree with Robin I don't use one either good tip about the Lens hood .

Rob.
 
weird I have done exactly the same just a cover on the lens hood
 
Em1x bird detect test,
So the sun came out today I set my camera up the way I had it a year or so ago to get something to compare I used the 100/400 mostly at 400mm 1/3200 to 1/4000 sec f6.3 iso 800 sensitivity at +2 block of 25 focus points C-AF
over all it was quite good with plenty of sharp shots along with some soft shots and some that were not in focus so about the same as i was getting a year or so ago

Then with the same settings but bird detect selected I had another go it might have been a little better but not by much for this first go, it would find the bird with the white box amazingly fast then put the green box on the bird but it also lost it now and then - then your trying to pick it up again and by then it's just about gone you feel like your playing catch up ( at least with a block of 25 and C-AF you know you need to put the bird in the centre ) and need the white box to find the bird to then put the green box on it so your working again, it is a split second but it disorientates you

It was my first go perhaps I need to learn a bit more what it's doing at least it does work quite well .

Birds in a tree or on a roof well I can't fault that it finds it right a way then goes for the head just about every time A pidion was what i tested it on .

Just my first thoughts.
Rob.

https://flic.kr/p/2kgVb8p
View: https://flic.kr/p/2kgVb8p
 
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Like anything new I think you need to give yourself time to adapt rob . From what I have heard a uncluttered background will work better
 
All my in flight tests were in a blank blue sky Jeff will have another go tomorrow .
 
GyRob said:
All my in flight tests were in a blank blue sky Jeff will have another go tomorrow .
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Keep the updates coming on how you fair with your settings Rob I am still toying with buying the EM1X but still need to be convinced about how good the bird tracking is on the EM1X
 
Evening all,

Following my post last week about my steadiness of holding my camera & 100-400mm lens & all your helpful hints & tips, I thought I’d let you all know that I spent some time testing different things & basically thank you very much :)

So your right that holding my left arm closer to my body help & Robin your tip about using the tripod collar as a grip also really helped. But the one other thing that I have found helped, was actually using the battery grip on my em 1.3 with my 100-400. I think it must be to do with the counter balancing.

But yeah thank you very much as always guys :)
 
GyRob said:
Em1x bird detect test,

Then with the same settings but bird detect selected I had another go it might have been a little better but not by much for this first go, it would find the bird with the white box amazingly fast then put the green box on the bird but it also lost it now and then - then your trying to pick it up again and by then it's just about gone you feel like your playing catch up ( at least with a block of 25 and C-AF you know you need to put the bird in the centre ) and need the white box to find the bird to then put the green box on it so your working again, it is a split second but it disorientates you

It was my first go perhaps I need to learn a bit more what it's doing at least it does work quite well .

Birds in a tree or on a roof well I can't fault that it finds it right a way then goes for the head just about every time A pidion was what i tested it on .

Just my first thoughts.
Rob.
Click to expand...
the black fox said:
Like anything new I think you need to give yourself time to adapt rob . From what I have heard a uncluttered background will work better
Click to expand...

.... So far, Bird D&T (or any other D&T) is very frustrating on any bird on a cluttered background. I tried Turnstones on a pebble & seaweed strewn beach and it was awful! So I switched back to S-AF without Tracking and had more success. I'll post a Turnstone pic when/if I have time this evening as I have today's surfing pics to clear ready for another session tomorrow.

My conclusion from a whole week using it (M1X) is that Bird D&T is simply not reliable and can be very frustrating on any bird on a cluttered/camouflaged background but on a clear sky background it is excellent. Therefore this feature is only any good for BiF and only providing there is no background clutter. As long as you accept this limitation it's not a problem - Just switch the Fn-Lever accordingly.
 
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Joe94 said:
Evening all,

Following my post last week about my steadiness of holding my camera & 100-400mm lens & all your helpful hints & tips, I thought I’d let you all know that I spent some time testing different things & basically thank you very much :)

So your right that holding my left arm closer to my body help & Robin your tip about using the tripod collar as a grip also really helped. But the one other thing that I have found helped, was actually using the battery grip on my em 1.3 with my 100-400. I think it must be to do with the counter balancing.

But yeah thank you very much as always guys :)
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.... That's good to hear, Joe.

Re a battery grip (built-in on the M1X), that is always going to be a major advantage when a telephoto lens is mounted. Not only is the combo as a whole better balanced physically (even more so with a TC mounted as well) but you can more easily shoot in portrait aspect ratio too.

As a wildlife photographer I have always fitted a battery grip. Overall physical handling is greatly improved. Personally I think it's a no-brainer!
 
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RedRobin said:
.... So far, Bird D&T (or any other D&T) is very frustrating on any bird on a cluttered background. I tried Turnstones on a pebble & seaweed strewn beach and it was awful! So I switched back to S-AF without Tracking and had more success. I'll post a Turnstone pic when/if I have time this evening as I have today's surfing pics to clear ready for another session tomorrow.

My conclusion from a whole week using it is that Bird D&T is simply not reliable and can be very frustrating on any bird on a cluttered/camouflaged background but on a clear sky background it is excellent. Therefore this feature is only any good for BiF and only providing there is no background clutter. As long as you accept this limitation it's not a problem - Just switch the Fn-Lever accordingly.
Click to expand...

Robin

Thanks for the updated insight :)

There is DPReview poster who also found BiF frustrating with especially with smaller, faster moving birds.

One of the early (maybe pre release reviews) complimented Bird D&T for it 'seeing' perched birds in the clutter of tree branches. So in your example of the Turnstone on a pebble beach, the AI cannot separate the bird from the 'clutter'.

Having watched a few videos re: Fn switch used to rapidly switch from Bird D&T to S-AF or indeed C-AF seems to be a good necessity for keeping stress under control;).

Sounds like the key with Bird D&T is to be conscious of the bird colouration and how well it stands out from the background...that will 'inform' the first setting choices???

PS the tools within the M1X are just that, tools to aid and improve potential for keeper rates.......but none of them can be a magic bullet.
 
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oh well luckily I dont at this moment in time seem to have the problem either locking on to the birds or needing a counterbalance .so heres one from a couple of weeks back ,snow bunting on a north Wales beach
oh sandy by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr
 
A little note.
Tracking sensitivity -2 to +2 does not work with C-AF + Tracking only with C-AF just found it on the Olympus site.

Rob.
 
GyRob said:
A little note.
Tracking sensitivity -2 to +2 does not work with C-AF + Tracking only with C-AF just found it on the Olympus site.

Rob.
Click to expand...


Have you got a link to that?

Though I may not have (fully) absorbed various common elements advice about the M1X but most? who advised set-up pre Bird AI are bolting that onto their previous advice i.e.to use tracking sensitivity? (I may have used too broad brush stroke lumping all together....... I stand to be corrected ;) ) so advice that you mention is important!
 
GyRob said:
A little note.
Tracking sensitivity -2 to +2 does not work with C-AF + Tracking only with C-AF just found it on the Olympus site.

Rob.
Click to expand...
If that’s factual then it should apply across all omd-1 series bodies , and as +2 is recommended by most b.I.f programs on the net ,it could be why virtually no one uses c-af+ tracking . Will have a play with this as soon as time permits
 
On a different tack just bought a samyang 7.5mm fish eye lens .. hopefully get some different pics from the other end of the spectrum .M/F but according to write up it’s virtually point and shoot
 
Box Brownie said:
Have you got a link to that?

Though I may not have (fully) absorbed various common elements advice about the M1X but most? who advised set-up pre Bird AI are bolting that onto their previous advice i.e.to use tracking sensitivity? (I may have used too broad brush stroke lumping all together....... I stand to be corrected ;) ) so advice that you mention is important!
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Indeed some are I can only think when using C-AF + Tracking Olympus have some sort of pre set to it that they don't want you to mess with.
Rob.
E-M1X MENU SETTINGS: C-AF SENSITIVITY EXPLAINED | Olympus (getolympus.com)
 
GyRob said:
Indeed some are I can only think when using C-AF + Tracking Olympus have some sort of pre set to it that they don't want you to mess with.
Rob.
E-M1X MENU SETTINGS: C-AF SENSITIVITY EXPLAINED | Olympus (getolympus.com)
Click to expand...

.... There is obviously a conflict of actions between sensitivity and tracking. Therefore the 'C-AF Sensitivity' setting in Menu A1 becomes overridden when 'C-AF+TR' is selected. There are several instances in most digital cameras of one setting overriding or cancelling out another setting in order to resolve a conflict.

Olympus are merely doing what is necessary within the current confines of the available technology.

Thanks for that link about C-AF Sensitivity Rob, I have now changed from +2 to +1 and may even try 0.
 
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