2nd go and got new backdrops

Ganton Gunner

Ganton Gunner

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Name
peter
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ok i have had another go and have now more than just the one Autumn forest backdrop.
i think the flash positioning was defo wrong due to the reflections in the glasses :(
used a white backdrop for blowing out and a mottled effect one i got.
also got a new holder as the one i had only opened to 1.8m the new one does 3m.
and yes i have some flashes now not just speed lights. i have one of the ebay kits https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/540W-Stu...223073&hash=item4418c1f588:g:xeUAAOSwPcVVzCfS and also 2 of the jessops 336vm portaflashes and a light meter. all 2nd hand on some ebay deals localish.

p.s. would some sort of steamer thing work for helping with the creases in the backdrop ?

_PAS3374 by peter staddon, on Flickr
_PAS3376 by peter staddon, on Flickr
_PAS3377 by peter staddon, on Flickr
_PAS3390 by peter staddon, on Flickr
_PAS3399 by peter staddon, on Flickr
_PAS3479 by peter staddon, on Flickr
_PAS3494 by peter staddon, on Flickr
_PAS3492 by peter staddon, on Flickr
 
Ganton Gunner said:
would some sort of steamer thing work for helping with the creases in the backdrop ?
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Yes, many types of steamers are available.
Another way is spray a fine mist of water as it hangs.
 
Ganton Gunner said:
Would some sort of steamer thing work for helping with the creases in the backdrop ?
Click to expand...

The other option (which is a good idea generally as well), it to have a much bigger distance between the subject and the background.

This gives two main advantages

1) You can now get the background is now out of focus - which hides the wrinkles
2) You can light the backdrop independently of the subject (the light on the subject will be much closer to the subject than the backdrop), allowing you to be a lot more creative with the lighting. This will also (particularly with the blown white backdrop) mean the backdrop will act less as a big back-light (as it's further away).
 
Faldrax said:
This gives two main advantages…
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I don't think so, Jonathan!
And inconveniences…

Being away from the BG — the model as well — will require a
larger studio and wider BG

Lit BG with creases through shadows visible even when OoF!
 
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I did not have room to move further back I am afraid.
it was at there house in the living room approx 9ft x 10ft of room
the only good news at the moment is I plan to convert my shed to use as a little studio :)
 
Kodiak Qc said:
Yes, many types of steamers are available.
Another way is spray a fine mist of water as it hangs.
Click to expand...
This ^^^^
However for that type of background you are too close to it IMO, did you need to use a bg, could you not have used their environment?

You are aware that you need to do some work on the lighting, simply look at the shadows cast by the young gents shirt collar in the second from last, the light needs to be higher plus I would have only used one Keylight, perhaps to achieve 'loop lighting' with fill from either a reflector or another low powered light on the camera axis (personally I prefer a large reflector, less to carry and on a stand takes up less room than another strobe) also your post production does need looking at particularly on those white backgrounds and the sheen on your subjects cheeks.

HTH
 
These looked fine on my phone but on the PC the white background shots are showing LOADS of processing artefacts, as well as problems with the subject being to close to the backdrop.

You're discovering - like many before you, myself included - that pure white is hard to do well, especially in a confined space.

If you need to salvage this set then I suggest you either leave the backdrop grey or use someone like http://clipping-path-asia.com/

The creases in the mottled backdrop could easily be retouched with the spot healing brush.

And lastly.. regulars will be bored of me posting a link to my own article but that's exactly why I wrote it... one light either side of the subject is rarely a good idea. Among other things it makes faces look blotchy and lumpy, which is exacerbated by the use of a fairly wide lens.

https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/tutorials/article-1-2-3-lights-for-portraits.127/
 
Mostly speaking White backgrounds do not work well for portraiture. if fully bleached out.
They usually look far better when lit as a graduated grey, and the subject/s lit to give maximum modelling.
Sitters should be far enough from the background so that their shadows do not fall with in the image area.
 
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juggler said:
Just make sure you have enough headroom before going to lots of expense.
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what is recommended headroom please.
for quick clarification my shed if 12ftx24ft and 7ft high at the moment.
I will be redoing the walls somewhat i.e. insulating then plaster boarding and I plan to re-roof it so would not be difficult for me to lift the roof somewhat while it's off.
 
You CAN get decent results in a small space but you have to work within limitations. For years I used what I affectionately called Bedroom Wall Studios (I had a walk in my bedroom which was grey).

A hilite is a reasonable solution for white backgrounds in limited space - a similar result can be had with a large soft box as a background. Personally, prefer the grey backgrounds!IMG_3954.jpg

Results will be less than perfect in smaller spaces so you MAY need to do a few minimal adjustments in PP. IMG_3734.jpgIMG_3682.jpg
 
Ganton Gunner said:
what is recommended headroom please.
for quick clarification my shed if 12ftx24ft and 7ft high at the moment.
I will be redoing the walls somewhat i.e. insulating then plaster boarding and I plan to re-roof it so would not be difficult for me to lift the roof somewhat while it's off.
Click to expand...
For persons standing a ceiling height of 7ft is way too low, even with the person sat it is going to be pushing things, try thinking about having your key angled down at 45degrees and the size of the softbox.
 
You’ve fallen for the 3 classic mistakes:
Light too low; creates unnatural shadows
2 keylight; often seen in online tutorials, it’s really not good.
White background; not easy to get right in a small space, and fixing in post never looks great.

As Shaheed says, you can work well in a small space, but you have to work with the limitations, rather than against them.

PhilH04 said:
You are aware that you need to do some work on the lighting, simply look at the shadows cast by the young gents shirt collar in the second from last, the light needs to be higher plus I would have only used one Keylight, perhaps to achieve 'loop lighting' with fill from either a reflector or another low powered light on the camera axis (personally I prefer a large reflector, less to carry and on a stand takes up less room than another strobe) also your post production does need looking at particularly on those white backgrounds and the sheen on your subjects cheeks.
Click to expand...

juggler said:
Just make sure you have enough headroom before going to lots of expense.
Click to expand...

PhilH04 said:
For persons standing a ceiling height of 7ft is way too low, even with the person sat it is going to be pushing things, try thinking about having your key angled down at 45degrees and the size of the softbo
Click to expand...

As we’re into repeating ourselves.

The first principal is....
There’s one sun and it’s above you.

I have 9’ ceilings and happily shoot seated adults with the softbox brushing the ceiling.
 
Phil V said:
I have 9’ ceilings and happily shoot seated adults with the softbox brushing the ceiling.
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Glad it's not just me! I used to think I was weird to need so much space. The beams in my current studio must be at least 9ft off the ground and regularly get in the way.

I really enjoy the challenge of working in confined spaces. I've made a special effort to learn how to do it - but it is a challenge and not ideal for learning the basics. 7 ft will make life very difficult.
 
please note I accepted my 7ft ceiling was probably too low and did say when I redo the roof I could lift it. :)
i do not think due to the Neighbours i would get away with more than 8ft but i could probably go down a 1ft too to give me 9ft ?
 
Ganton Gunner said:
please note I accepted my 7ft ceiling was probably too low and did say when I redo the roof I could lift it. :)
i do not think due to the Neighbours i would get away with more than 8ft but i could probably go down a 1ft too to give me 9ft ?
Click to expand...

You can do interesting & creative things in any size of space.

Some types of image just need more. Sometimes a lot more.

My ideal space would be 8m wide, 8m high and a significant depth, but my interests are unusual.

What do you want to shoot?
 
juggler said:
You can do interesting & creative things in any size of space.

Some types of image just need more. Sometimes a lot more.

My ideal space would be 8m wide, 8m high and a significant depth, but my interests are unusual.

What do you want to shoot?
Click to expand...

I suppose mainly portraits, family pics and kids. I know that's quite a broad spread though :(
I have a D7200 I am using at the moment but I would think the sensible choice would be to swap it in for a FF at some point as I have my D500 for wildlife.
I have only just started getting in to Photographing people Portrait wise etc,
I would say my longer term plan is to slowly build up and learn over the next 10 years as I am now 40 and a roofer and I have been told I will lose the use of my left leg Within the next 15 years.
realistically I will not be able to carry on roofing at that point but I do enjoy photography so am hoping i can prepare gradually and work on my skills for a career change.
I enjoy my work Roofing and will ideally keep doing that for as long as possible but I am trying to plan a viable option for the future that i will also enjoy.
 
Ganton Gunner said:
please note I accepted my 7ft ceiling was probably too low and did say when I redo the roof I could lift it. :)
i do not think due to the Neighbours i would get away with more than 8ft but i could probably go down a 1ft too to give me 9ft ?
Click to expand...
I've just found out in Scotland anyway that you can raise the height of a garage or outbuilding to 4 metres without permission as long as it's not within 1 metre of your boundary. Anything within 1 metre cannot exceed 2.4 metres or 8ft.

Unfortunately for me mine is so a pitched roof is the only way I can get the height I desire. Not ideal.
 
Ganton Gunner said:
I suppose mainly portraits, family pics and kids. I know that's quite a broad spread though :(
I have a D7200 I am using at the moment but I would think the sensible choice would be to swap it in for a FF at some point as I have my D500 for wildlife.
I have only just started getting in to Photographing people Portrait wise etc,
I would say my longer term plan is to slowly build up and learn over the next 10 years as I am now 40 and a roofer and I have been told I will lose the use of my left leg Within the next 15 years.
realistically I will not be able to carry on roofing at that point but I do enjoy photography so am hoping i can prepare gradually and work on my skills for a career change.
I enjoy my work Roofing and will ideally keep doing that for as long as possible but I am trying to plan a viable option for the future that i will also enjoy.
Click to expand...

That's an awful thing to have hanging over you. I've no idea how it must feel.

You really, really don't need to change your camera for studio stuff. The D500 will be more than adequate.

I'll qualify the next bit by saying that I am not a pro.

I have seen a lot of portrait studios close recently. The ones that survive tend to have excellent marketing and be very highly skilled, as well as offer location work.

If you lose the use of one leg then I think your best bet will be to have a single standard setup in your studio so you don't have to adjust lights - and that's exactly the sort of thing which seems to fail to make money.

Even without constantly adjusting lighting, portrait photography is surprisingly physical. There's a lot of bending, twisting & crouching to get good angles.

I seriously recommend you get in touch with the disabled photographers association before committing to this as a career path. There are lots of disabled photographers, some of them very disabled, and some producing great work, but I'd be surprised if it was possible to make a living doing portraiture without an assistant.
 
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