60mm,90mm,100mm or 180mm For indoor Flower Photography?

russellsnr

russellsnr

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Russell
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Hi, Looking to buy a new lens for indoor flower photography. I have the older version of the Tamron SP AF90mm but looking for a better quality lens. Will be tripod mounted so IS really not needed (although would maybe useful on the odd outdoor venture at times) Camera is a Canon 70D so EF-s OK. Only real must have is an option for a tripod collar this being a big reason for changing from the Tamron as I cannot see a tripod option for this lens (maybe someone knows better?).
Thanks
Russ
 
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Few points on choosing a focal length for "proximity" work:
  1. the longer the lens, the shallower the DoF
  2. the closer to the subject, the shallower the DoF
  3. the shorter the lens, the more you risk to throw shadows
I would recommend a 100'ish macro lens (I have the Nikkor 105)
which is great for portrait, and street photography applications as
well… a most flexible piece of equipment.

Now, for the tripod mount, I made a rail that supports both, having
the camera and the lens attached… no more vibration. I use it when-
ever I need to set any combo on tripod in studio.
 
As you are using a crop body, and you already have a very capable lens, I'd stick with what you have. I'd only change if the lens/camera combo were giving me a problem, e.g. lens not wide enough or not getting the DoF required etc ...

As for a tripod collar - well the lens is so light it doesn't need one.On any decent 'pod you should be able to get this very stable without a collar. You can use mirror up I think on the Canon and also maybe using a remote release would help too.

fwiw my own preference on full frame for close work (not macro) was a 60mm macro lens, but my needs will have been different to yours.

Now of course, if you just fancy a change then all bets are off ... ;)
 
Hi, Thank you for the replies.
The problem I am having is the focus ring for the Tamron is one of these push/pull lenses that have the focus ring right at the lens tip so when I try to focus in manual the lens moves slightly so when you let go the focus point I focused on moves, not much but when I go into Photoshop and align layers you can see the movment once P/S has done it's magic, now I am on a tripod with a Manfrotto Junior geared head so it's not the tripod/head combo that's causing the movement.
Tried useing the Helicon remote app but finding I am getting a more precise focus by hand through an attached SWIVI viewfinder in live view.
Thanks again
Russ
 
OK, not to be difficult but it sounds like the 'pod isn't stable. However for some jobs a focusing rail is a solution - basically, you mount the camera on the rail and move the rail to focus. These vary in price from the eye-watering to very cheap, (ebay specials). I've no idea how good the ebay specials are as I've never used them. A good inexpensive one though is this one http://www.speedgraphic.co.uk/focus...hopping_feed&gclid=CJiZxvG7nNMCFYoy0wodSdkDBg (I've no connection with speedgraphic btw, just a customer).
 
russellsnr said:
Manfrotto Junior geared head
Click to expand...
I am not familiar with the head but I found movement between camera (D7200) and plate where the plate was a 200PL (smaller than what you got). I have done away with the head(s) but I am still a bit doubtful as to how stable things are with a plasticky camera and when there is a heavy lens in front or your hand in this instance. Sorry I got no solution to offer :-(
 
Kodiak Qc said:
•



Few points on choosing a focal length for "proximity" work:
  1. the longer the lens, the shallower the DoF
  2. the closer to the subject, the shallower the DoF
  3. the shorter the lens, the more you risk to throw shadows
I would recommend a 100'ish macro lens (I have the Nikkor 105)
which is great for portrait, and street photography applications as
well… a most flexible piece of equipment.

Now, for the tripod mount, I made a rail that supports both, having
the camera and the lens attached… no more vibration. I use it when-
ever I need to set any combo on tripod in studio.
Click to expand...
4. The longer the lens the narrower the field of view ->the tighter the crop of the background.
The problem you may encounter here is the lack of "natural" life in the background making it plain, dead and boring. Perhaps that's what you want but I liked the 105mm focallength for its ability to throw the background out of focus taking care of most of the disturbing elements while still retaining some play and life there.
Oh and offcource 5. The longer the lens the longer the working distance.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
If you are happy with 90mm get the "old" non-IS Canon 100mm macro.
You are using a geared head so you won't get "Droop" but when I had a 7D+100mm I picked up a cheap ( ebay) tripod ring as the balance was better on a ballhead but that was before I got a geared head
 
The range you are looking to cover can be done with a 70-200. Both the f4 and f2.8 are sharp but the f2.8ii is stunning the IS is excellent so you might not need a tripod. The depth of field can blank out background and it can also be used for many other things as well. Expensive but sharp I use mine for bugs at 100% crops and you can count hairs on dragonflies so a rose or two should be ok.
 
I would take a look at the newer Tamron 90mm. I have the TAMRON SP 90mm F/2.8 Di VC USD MACRO1:1 F004 (this is the model/version no). The VC is useful when handheld, but obviously when on a tripod it's not so much of a problem.
But this version of the lens doesn't extend when you focus (the glass elements move within the lens), which I think is the problem you are describing here:
russellsnr said:
The problem I am having is the focus ring for the Tamron is one of these push/pull lenses that have the focus ring right at the lens tip so when I try to focus in manual the lens moves slightly so when you let go the focus point I focused on moves
Click to expand...

You didn't say that there was a problem with the focal length of 90mm, so I'd suggest sticking with either a 90mm or 100mm.

I'm not sure about the value of putting a tripod ring on a lens of this size as the body will be heavier than the lens, so will put more strain on the lens mount than putting the body on the tripod.
 
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