Best tips for Lightroom workflow efficiency

mikeyw

mikeyw

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Like many photographers i'm sure, i love taking photos but find the after workflow process a bit of a drag at times.

I shoot in Raw and process in Lightroom CC but feel my process is very slow and laboured. I'm sure people have good techniques for saving time and minimising effort so wondered if you would be as kind to help my improve in this area. I normally import all images from a shoot in one go then select my keepers manually one by one. I then group photos of very similar nature and process one to a level i'm happy with then sync across the other images and fine tune after.

On import i dont apply any settings and wonder if this is an area i should work on.

Looking at it i guess this is reasonably efficient but would love to here of any tips or tricks to save more time.

tia,
Mike.
 
Import
Generate standard sized previews for all
Add lens correction to all
add copyright into to all metadata
 
Everyone's different... but here's my tuppence. Caveat - if you're shooting specific things, like Weddings, your workflow might benefit from being completely different! It's not a one-size-fits-all

My process:
- Copy all cards to a dump folder using Windows Explorer or equiv. (I have an IR camera + normal so often multiple cards)
- Do one big "Add" in LR adding © data (Add is quicker than Move/Copy plus they will only do one card at once)
- Set a filter to "hide rejected" (this is default for me)
- Go through all photos and press "x" to reject oof, or badly composed, or boring, or rubbish.
- If multi images of the same thing, select all & press "N" for survey mode. Whilst in Survey, reject (x) similar, but not the best photos.
- Combine panos/hdrs & reject (x) source images.
- Move keepers (using LR drag 'n' drop) into 2017 folder & associated subfolder.

- Outside LR - empty dump folder (it'll only have rejects in there). Auto-backup kicks in once photos have been moved into 2017 folder (saves me backing up crap just to delete it)

Also have Smart collections for "No Keywords" (this is basically my keyword to-do list) as well as my part-keyworded stuff so that I can go back & do it when I have the sanity. I rarely do keywording on import - mainly because I hate doing it.

I'll never apply settings on import because I rarely use the same settings. However if I've done a portrait shoot and the whole set will benefit from a change, I do one, then select all and sync the changes in one go after import. Same for Keywords. Takes very little time. Often used with WB on IR shots as that is often different depending on the light.

I'm far more ruthless with images these days. Came back with a card of 40 images from the weekend walkabout in Delamere and ended up keeping just 4. A polished turd is still crap - IMO.
 
Import, skim through and delete about 50%, have a brew/do something else for a while/take an anti-hoarding pill, go back and delete most of the rest but not quite all because, well, nostalgia. Do some barrel bottom scraping to pick one that might be vaguely worthwhile; pretend that my awesome PP skills will recover a work of sublime photography from the selected pigs ear; process it into oblivion; have another brew while the camera battery charges; go out with a new sense of optimism…


Repeat
 
When doing a live music night,

- I 'add to quick collection' as I go through the photos keeping anything that I like (200 in 2000 images)
- I then view the quick collection thumbnails in large in the library mode
- Set hide rejects and press X to remove those I don't want (knowing I can undo if I have removed too many images of a certain person) (down to 60-80 images)
- Then I process the images, usually with a quick crop and apply a preset I made, clone out anything distracting.
- Save them to new collection and name it, export them to jpg

2000 images down to 60-80
 
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Copy to PC
I use Perfect Browse to rate images - it's much quicker than Lightroom and the metadata is largely compatibile.
I rate images one at a time very quickly, a couple of seconds each at most
0 = bin
1 = technically ok but rather dull / stupid expression / etc
2 = usable but don't like it
3 = keep for client selection but not good enough for my own use - I might put 50% in here, rather fewer if the shoot is deeply technical.
4 = will consider using on IG, Flickr, etc. - I might get 5% in here
5 = going on the website - fewer than 1%
Then import to LR with metadata, applying an import preset for lens correction, sharpening, camera calibration, etc.

After that I go through the 3/4/5 star images again to check I haven't got anything wrong.

Then processing will either be quick tweaks in LR, possibly with a preset for toning synced across a set, or I'll start getting into the detail* in photoshop.

*detail may include some or all of background cleanup and/or extension, blemish removal, skin tone correction, highlight/shadow recovery, liquify, local & global contrast adjustments and dodging & burning.

Then on a copy do whatever toning or effects I fancy. If I'm toning in PS rather than LR then I often use the Library feature to store a group containing the effects I'm using.
 
I wrote quite a long blogpost on how I processed ~1000 images in a week after getting back from holiday recently: http://photoxon.blogspot.co.uk/2017/06/the-never-ending-challenge.html

I have a simple rating system in lightroom for large sets of pictures without commercial value (i.e. holiday snaps) where 1 star means worth processing, X means the image is garbage and 0 means the image can be deleted later if not needed. I tend to shoot several frames of the same thing in case of camera shake etc, and then delete the un-needed images later.

My LR workflow is to start in lens corrections, then detail, then tone curve, finally basic + any gradients, dust removal etc, and I'll try to keep it as quick as reasonably possible these days.
 
juggler said:
Copy to PC
I use Perfect Browse to rate images - it's much quicker than Lightroom and the metadata is largely compatibile.
I rate images one at a time very quickly, a couple of seconds each at most
0 = bin
1 = technically ok but rather dull / stupid expression / etc
2 = usable but don't like it
3 = keep for client selection but not good enough for my own use - I might put 50% in here, rather fewer if the shoot is deeply technical.
4 = will consider using on IG, Flickr, etc. - I might get 5% in here
5 = going on the website - fewer than 1%
Then import to LR with metadata, applying an import preset for lens correction, sharpening, camera calibration, etc.

After that I go through the 3/4/5 star images again to check I haven't got anything wrong.

Then processing will either be quick tweaks in LR, possibly with a preset for toning synced across a set, or I'll start getting into the detail* in photoshop.

*detail may include some or all of background cleanup and/or extension, blemish removal, skin tone correction, highlight/shadow recovery, liquify, local & global contrast adjustments and dodging & burning.

Then on a copy do whatever toning or effects I fancy. If I'm toning in PS rather than LR then I often use the Library feature to store a group containing the effects I'm using.
Click to expand...

Brilliant insight. Thanks
 
Guys - some fantastic advice on this thread, hope others are finding it as useful as i am. Thanks for the brilliant tips !
 
One thing I find makes life easier is to always work in "solo" mode, otherwise you waste a lot of time scrolling up and down the menus.
 
What is solo mode Brain ? - not sure i've come across that before.
 
Right click one of the disclosure triangles alongside Basic, Tone Curve etc. and select Solo Mode.

This means that only one of those panels will be open at a time (all others are collapsed), which avoids having to scroll through all the open panels to get to something lower down (eg. Effects). Clicking another panel will open that panel and close the previous one.


LR-SoloMode.jpg
 
mikeyw said:
What is solo mode Brain ? - not sure i've come across that before.
Click to expand...
Solo mode only keeps open the menu box that you are currently working with.
Right Click on any of the panels and choose Solo Mode from the drop down menu.
Now when you click on any panel, all the other panels will be shut so that you will do less scrolling.
Saves a lot of time scrolling up and down open menus.

EDIT: Doh! Looks like Tony Hall and myself cross-posted.
 
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Brian G said:
Right Click on any of the panels and choose Solo Mode from the drop down menu.
Click to expand...
Doh! I've always clicked just the disclosure triangle, as opposed to anywhere in the bar (which is much easier) - you live and learn. :)
 
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I tend to use all of those modules so having them open actually works better for me unless i'm missing something here :)
 
Three things that I have found helpful are:

1. When culling, alway's edit 'in' rather than editing 'out.' i.e. pick those that you want to keep rather than mark those that you don't want - far, far quicker. When done, just filter by 'unflagged' and delete.

2. Dragging the histogram increases/decreases exposure. Just a bit quicker than finding that small exposure slider.

3. If you have a series of similar images in similar lighting, match exposure throughout with:

Settings > Match Total Exposures

I use the shortcut. You do have to have very similar lighting otherwise it doesn't work so well but can be a nice quick workflow addition.
 
mikeyw said:
I tend to use all of those modules so having them open actually works better for me unless i'm missing something here :)
Click to expand...
I use all the modules too, but not all at the same time.
I find it keeps the screen appearance "tidier" by only having the current working panel open, but hey - it's an option, so you don't HAVE to use it.

I find some of the Julieanne Kost Lightroom tutorials a good source of tricks and tips.
 
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Another tip is actually the hardware you use.
I've built my PC for best performance, so it has a SSD for the Windows 10 OS, a SSD for the lightroom catalogue and cache and a SSD for this years raw files.
All other previous years raw files and exports etc go onto a 16Tb raided disk system (5 x 4tb disks).

Then import is quick, full previews selected, if needed make a cuppa.
Library module, quick run through with scoring, mark for deletion the obvious rubbish (x), out of focus etc, score the rest between 0 & 2
Delete the rubbish (Ctrl-Backspace)

Run through those flagged 2 in develop module with an initial edit or a full edit and score 3-5. I use the colour flags for other sorts.
 
I work on ships and shoot c.1000 images a day (yes, I know). I have to have all images processed by the next morning so I've become as efficient as possible and am glad to see it matches up to others on here!
1) transfer from card to working directory on MacBook Pro sad
2) import into Lightroom, build standard previews
3) apply lens profile corrections
4) in the library module, display single shot and go through and mark photos - 5* is something to process that will be needed on board, blue features people red is wildlife/landscapes
6) filter by the 5* and people or wildlife etc and move into develop. Usually by this point I only have 100ish images to deal with and then everything else will be looked at again when I'm back on dry land.
 
Livin The Dream said:
Three things that I have found helpful are:





Settings > Match Total Exposures

I use the shortcut. You do have to have very similar lighting otherwise it doesn't work so well but can be a nice quick workflow addition.
Click to expand...

This sounds very interesting does it try and bring a set of images up to the identical exposure regardless of their initial differences ?
 
mikeyw said:
This sounds very interesting does it try and bring a set of images up to the identical exposure regardless of their initial differences ?
Click to expand...

Kind of, yes. But like I said, they need to be similarly lit. If you have a series then it works great.
 
I have one preset which applies lens corrections, turns on 'auto', adds a little clarity and some saturation/vibrance, I use a rename template to rename the files, add general keywords at import, turn on preview generation, set some metadata (copyright), then I walk away while Lightroom does it's thing.

I know folk don't always like the auto option, but it's trivial to reset,and in many cases it's a useful first stab (difficult lighting situations aside). Then, it depends on the reason for the photographs - if it's a 'walking around the city' session, I'll probably leave it for a few days and dip in and out finding images that still inspire me, deleting others.

If it's an event, I'll split the images up into groups and then quickly pick the best 2 or 3 for each 'scene' before doing more work selecting the right one, and then finalising the post processing.

Edit: Then about a week later someone will show me the JPG I exported, and I'll be appalled at all the chromatic aberration, and wonder why I don't have fixing that turned on by default in the preset and why I don't always notice it in my own pictures but do in everyone elses.
 
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Some useful tips in here, thanks guys.

I always thought the work flow i used was perhaps mega CRAP, but altho its very far from great, its only crap, not mega crap.
 
EightBitTony said:
I have one preset which applies lens corrections, turns on 'auto', adds a little clarity and some saturation/vibrance, I use a rename template to rename the files, add general keywords at import, turn on preview generation, set some metadata (copyright), then I walk away while Lightroom does it's thing.

I know folk don't always like the auto option, but it's trivial to reset,and in many cases it's a useful first stab (difficult lighting situations aside). Then, it depends on the reason for the photographs - if it's a 'walking around the city' session, I'll probably leave it for a few days and dip in and out finding images that still inspire me, deleting others.

If it's an event, I'll split the images up into groups and then quickly pick the best 2 or 3 for each 'scene' before doing more work selecting the right one, and then finalising the post processing.

Edit: Then about a week later someone will show me the JPG I exported, and I'll be appalled at all the chromatic aberration, and wonder why I don't have fixing that turned on by default in the preset and why I don't always notice it in my own pictures but do in everyone elses.
Click to expand...

I think I've read that it's not a good idea to use chromatic aberration on import as it degrades the rest of the image as well in some way. Only use it on images that need it.
 
jerry12953 said:
I think I've read that it's not a good idea to use chromatic aberration on import as it degrades the rest of the image as well in some way. Only use it on images that need it.
Click to expand...

Yep, and I always go around the same loop and hence don't turn it on. If you've got the kinds of colours chromatic aberration can trigger you need to be careful about using the auto fixes, so it's best not to use it on import.

But then - I forgot - and don't notice - and you know the rest.
 
dan_yell said:
Some useful tips in here, thanks guys.

I always thought the work flow i used was perhaps mega CRAP, but altho its very far from great, its only crap, not mega crap.
Click to expand...

My theory has been.

1. Do everything you always do to every image up front, as part of the import process. This usually extends the import process, but equally, it doesn't need me to watch it.
2. Remove everything you don't care about.
3. Then do individual processing (or group based, depending on the image set).

Sometimes it's obvious an image isn't a keeper, sometimes you start the processing and realise it's not going to work, so 2 to 3 is iterative.

It's equally valid to,

1. Import everything without any changes (faster)
2. Downsize to a near-final-set of images
3. Select everything and apply global stuff (lens correction, meta data, whatever)
4. Select and process the final images

The really, really important thing about a workflow, is that it's yours and it needs to suit your mind, approach, preferences, lifestyle. There's no right way - although there are ways which may be more efficient using features of the products people weren't aware of.

For example - you don't need to use presets at import, you can set 'default development settings', and you can have them apply to specific camera serial numbers of ISOs. So you can if you want, tell Lightroom to handle images from different cameras in different default ways, and change that again based on their ISO. All without touching the import dialog. There's a huge 'efficiency' saving to be made there potentially.
 
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juggler said:
Copy to PC
I use Perfect Browse to rate images - it's much quicker than Lightroom and the metadata is largely compatibile.
I rate images one at a time very quickly, a couple of seconds each at most
0 = bin
1 = technically ok but rather dull / stupid expression / etc
2 = usable but don't like it
3 = keep for client selection but not good enough for my own use - I might put 50% in here, rather fewer if the shoot is deeply technical.
4 = will consider using on IG, Flickr, etc. - I might get 5% in here
5 = going on the website - fewer than 1%
Then import to LR with metadata, applying an import preset for lens correction, sharpening, camera calibration, etc.

After that I go through the 3/4/5 star images again to check I haven't got anything wrong.

Then processing will either be quick tweaks in LR, possibly with a preset for toning synced across a set, or I'll start getting into the detail* in photoshop.

*detail may include some or all of background cleanup and/or extension, blemish removal, skin tone correction, highlight/shadow recovery, liquify, local & global contrast adjustments and dodging & burning.

Then on a copy do whatever toning or effects I fancy. If I'm toning in PS rather than LR then I often use the Library feature to store a group containing the effects I'm using.
Click to expand...


Great one Simon, and thanks (y)
 
I've seen many online vids about Lightroom over the years, but the person I have seen explain it in the most comprehensive manner is Jared Platt. Being a Pro Photographer, he also has a very efficient workflow. His "Ultimate Lightroom CC Workflow" can be found here on Creativelive, for a price. ;) You may be able to pick up vids by him online around the internet to pick up some free tips.
 
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