Black-necked Grebe

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Kevin
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#5
Thank you all for looking and commenting. As to the halo, it's one of the reasons I rarely post images on here as the site always messes about with my images when I upload them. Is there a way to keep the original file size without it being resized. My images are 1200x800 pixels and all processing is done for this size although I also process 1600x1066 for Flickr using values specifically for this size as well.
 
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Mike
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#6
Nice Kev - not seeing a halo on number 2 myself, but what I do find is that when uploading my shots to flickr it either compresses them somehow or adds sharpening - either way it often adds a halo. I always process mine for here at 1024px, only sharpen after resizing, and upload directly here from my hard drive

Mike
 
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#7
Nice Kev - not seeing a halo on number 2 myself, but what I do find is that when uploading my shots to flickr it either compresses them somehow or adds sharpening - either way it often adds a halo. I always process mine for here at 1024px, only sharpen after resizing, and upload directly here from my hard drive

Mike
Thanks Mike. I've found that if I upload to Flickr at one of it's native sizes, eg 1600pix, then it doesn't change it a great deal. I already do 2 different sizes so I'll have to put up with it.
 

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#8


The first would be my pick if processed with some tonal
taming that could bring up more feather details, Kevin.
 

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#12
explain what you mean by tonal taming

The mid-tones are targeted in a tonal taming tweak. It permits
to brighten details, reveal the full crispness without sharpening.
 

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#14

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Fair enough, could you explain in whatever software you use.

Yes, Kevin.

For RAW conversion, I use Capture One Pro v. 11+.
For image editing, I use UK made Affinity Photo.
 
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#18
Yes, Kevin.

For RAW conversion, I use Capture One Pro v. 11+.
For image editing, I use UK made Affinity Photo.
One last try, I'm trying to learn. Could you please explain how you do 'tonal taming' I'm sure I can work out how to do it in PS if you explain exactly what you do in C1 or Affinity. Thank you.
 

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#19
explain exactly what you do in C1

Reading the file, set DRL and apply WB. Then, through local
tweaking, lower mids and boost lows… go gently.
 
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#20
I can't bare it any longer...

Kev,

I don't think there is a lot that needed doing to the files personally, but in the interest of learning maybe this will help. All done in PS but using the curves along with the adjustment brush in LR you could do something very similar.

For this, I've just selected the birds themselves and gone waaaay over the top - this is not meant to be accurate, just a demonstration!!!

If you want to get more localised contrast within the image you want to open up a curves layer. There is the line that goes in a diagonal from top right to bottom left. To add contrast drag the line downwards around the dark tones (the left side of the histogram) and pull it up on the right side where the lighter tones are.

contrast-S-curve.jpg

This did this to your shot

7D2_7077-2-contrast-added.jpg

The blacks are much darker, and the midtones around the Grebes backside are lighter.

As an alternative, and again just for demonstration, if you were to do a 'reverse S' with the curve -

Reverse-curve.jpg

The contrast would lessen like this -

7D2_7077-2-contrast-removed.jpg

Using the curves with the mask it generates allows you to target specific areas.

regarding the ponts on the curve to move, it varies from shot to shot. A good way of checking where to target is to open up the curves box and click on the hand icon within the box. As you go over your shot the cursor changes to a pipette and as you move around the image look at the diagonal line in the curves box and it'll move to represent the tone you're hovering over with your cursor. You can then use that as a basis. A bit of trial and error at the start.

Anyway, like I said, I don't think this is the right approach here, if anything I'd use an adjustment layer called 'selective colour' in photoshop. This allows some nice subtle tweaks. If you have PS, open up the selective colour layer (bottom one of all the adjustment layers got from the half shaded circle at the bottom of the layers panel). First select red from the drop down box, and reduce the cyan slider by quite a bit. This will boost the red eye nicely. Then I went to 'blacks' in the drop down box and slightly boosted the black slider to darken the blacks in the shot. Very subtle and only really noticeable side by side

7D2_7077-2-selective-colour.jpg

Hope that helps a little - any questions give me a shout

Mike
 
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Edward
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#21
Two very nice images(no halo).Was down at St.Adians a few weeks ago & got some shots but the light looked to be kinder to you.
 

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#22



An image is a thousand words… but I read Kevin
didn't want his pictures edited!?!?!

Here, I did not apply to layer but to the whole picture.
Like I said: DRL, mids cut and low pushed. I did not
go gently for demonstration purposes…





 
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#23
I can't bare it any longer...

Kev,

I don't think there is a lot that needed doing to the files personally, but in the interest of learning maybe this will help. All done in PS but using the curves along with the adjustment brush in LR you could do something very similar.

Mike
Mike, thank you very much for the detailed explanation. From what was said by kodiak qc I was hoping for something new but that wasn't to be. I'm ok with curves and use them in my PPing already. As to editing my images I'm happy for them to be used if it's for the purpose of explaining something to me. Although I do know about curves, i feel your explanation will be very helpful to those that don't use or understand them. Again, thank you for taking the time to explain.
 
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John
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#24
Mike, thank you very much for the detailed explanation. From what was said by kodiak qc I was hoping for something new but that wasn't to be. I'm ok with curves and use them in my PPing already. As to editing my images I'm happy for them to be used if it's for the purpose of explaining something to me. Although I do know about curves, i feel your explanation will be very helpful to those that don't use or understand them. Again, thank you for taking the time to explain.
I've actually copy/pasted this and it's is now in my 'Pooley's Tutorial' folder'. Gold dust. (y)

Lovely photos Kevin. I've never seen one of these,just the regular ones.
 
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#25
Mike, thank you very much for the detailed explanation. From what was said by kodiak qc I was hoping for something new but that wasn't to be. I'm ok with curves and use them in my PPing already. As to editing my images I'm happy for them to be used if it's for the purpose of explaining something to me. Although I do know about curves, i feel your explanation will be very helpful to those that don't use or understand them. Again, thank you for taking the time to explain.
No worries Kev,

Mike
 
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#26
Thank you all for looking and commenting. As to the halo, it's one of the reasons I rarely post images on here as the site always messes about with my images when I upload them. Is there a way to keep the original file size without it being resized. My images are 1200x800 pixels and all processing is done for this size although I also process 1600x1066 for Flickr using values specifically for this size as well.
Only just back on as travelled up to Bempton ... I see you edited them after my comment and there is no halo that I can see on the edits, so whatever you did worked.
Personally I size them at 1024 on the longest edge and I [i[think[/i] that helps reduce the negative effect of linking them.
 
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