Film developing kits - any recommendations? (Now with photos :))

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Nige
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I’ve got a dev tank with spirals that I’d gladly let you have Nige if I can find a way to get it in the hands of the post office.
Our local one is closed but parcel deliveries are still possible by being deposited in our letter boxes, similarly to have parcel collected for export.
The problem I have is that I’m unfortunate to have a box that will be too small to hold a parcel of that size and the p.o refuse to collect as a matter of course if the parcel is not inside the box.
Perhaps being a small ish community I can persuade them differently.... ie to collect if I leave the parcel on top of the letterbox for collection.

All this said, national mail continues albiet with delays. If international mail is still operational I really don’t know tbh
 
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I’ve got a dev tank with spirals that I’d gladly let you have Nige if I can find a way to get it in the hands of the post office.
Our local one is closed but parcel deliveries are still possible by being deposited in our letter boxes, similarly to have parcel collected for export.
The problem I have is that I’m unfortunate to have a box that will be too small to hold a parcel of that size and the p.o refuse to collect as a matter of course if the parcel is not inside the box.
Perhaps being a small ish community I can persuade them differently.... ie to collect if I leave the parcel on top of the letterbox for collection.

All this said, national mail continues albiet with delays. If international mail is still operational I really don’t know tbh

Thanks Asha. @Harlequin565 offered me a dev tak too a while back, but given the current situation I wouldn't want either of you venturing out to the post office on my behalf. I'd still need to buy the other bits and pieces anyway, plus chems, so might as well get a full kit from a retailer if I decide to take the plunge, even if it does cost me a bit more.

Appreciate the kind offers from both of you though. (y)
 
The problem with starter kits is that they give you a load of crap you don't need. When I look at your links, I'm thinking that I'd be overpaying for stuff I can get from our local hardware store.

AW kit: https://analoguewonderland.co.uk/co...ilm-developing-starter-kit-includes-chemicals

AG Photographic has a couple: https://www.ag-photographic.co.uk/darkroom-kits-and-starter-packs-206-c.asp

All around the same price.

If you're prepared to order bits and bobs...

The Tank, spirals and dark bag are pretty much required. Some people go under the bedclothes at night to do it, but a proper dark bag is really handy. [quote me!]

For film clips, I use clothes pegs. Plastic ones.
For measuring, I use normal 1l measuring jugs from the hardware store. 1 each for dev, stop & fix. As long as they measure 300ml and 500ml I'm happy.
For measuring small quantities of developer, I use a measuring cup from cough medicine, or similar. Doesn't need to measure more than 25ml.
Thermometer I got from Amazon for £7.
To open film cannisters I use a regular bottle opener.
I've stopped using a squeegee because scratches.

You could get the tank + spirals
https://ntphotoworks.com/product/ne...four-tank-2x-35mm-1x120-inc-two-spirals-copy/

and the bag
https://ntphotoworks.com/product/dark-changing-bag-for-loading-film-for-processing/

separately then get the rest off wherever for less than the price of those fancy kits.

Probably need a couple of storage bottles. One for your made up fixer and one for your made up stop bath (if you use it). If you use one-shot (use once then throw) developer you only need 2, but if you start using powdered reusable stuff you need more. That's why I stick with Rodinal and HC-110. Both last ages, are super cheap (per roll), and you just use once then throw away.

THat's my tuppence. Others will hopefully shed more light.
 
I've just checked my darkroom, and I have a number of Paterson tanks (old style) going back to the Major II days (1950s - bought new!). I acquired a number of the larger tanks when I was processing a lot of 35mm films (specifically slide films) and needed larger tanks to be more efficient. If you'd like one, let me know and I'll see what models I have available that I can spare. Don't worry about me making a trip to the PO, as I shall be making one anyway to send a parcel (or possibly two parcels) to different people. The extra time required to post three rather than two doesn't frighten me.

I never had a changing bag until I went to university, and loaded tanks under the bedclothes at night. Hot, yes; but doable. On the other hand, in those days 35mm cassettes were opened by sliding a fingernail round the paper to let the top slide off - no bottle openers required then.

I started out weighing water for mixing chemicals with the kitchen balance scales (I fluid oz weighs 1 ounce).

A measuring cyclinder makes things easier. And I'd say you need a thermometer as well.
 
Hi Nige, How many films do you think on average you'll be processing? In my opinion, a lot of the kits contain relatively little chemistry, hardware that you dont necessarily need (or can get much cheaper if you dont use photo specialist brands), and miss stuff that you probably do need (like the changing bag). I'd possibly make a list of what YOU need, and the chemicals YOU want to use, and make your own kit by ordering things seperately. I know its less convenient, but far more economical in the long run.
 
Hi Nige, How many films do you think on average you'll be processing? In my opinion, a lot of the kits contain relatively little chemistry, hardware that you dont necessarily need (or can get much cheaper if you dont use photo specialist brands), and miss stuff that you probably do need (like the changing bag). I'd possibly make a list of what YOU need, and the chemicals YOU want to use, and make your own kit by ordering things seperately. I know its less convenient, but far more economical in the long run.

In the current situation, I'm not sure. :) On average and when the world is running normally, usually a roll a week, maybe a little more.
 
I've just checked my darkroom, and I have a number of Paterson tanks (old style) going back to the Major II days (1950s - bought new!). I acquired a number of the larger tanks when I was processing a lot of 35mm films (specifically slide films) and needed larger tanks to be more efficient. If you'd like one, let me know and I'll see what models I have available that I can spare. Don't worry about me making a trip to the PO, as I shall be making one anyway to send a parcel (or possibly two parcels) to different people. The extra time required to post three rather than two doesn't frighten me.

I never had a changing bag until I went to university, and loaded tanks under the bedclothes at night. Hot, yes; but doable. On the other hand, in those days 35mm cassettes were opened by sliding a fingernail round the paper to let the top slide off - no bottle openers required then.

I started out weighing water for mixing chemicals with the kitchen balance scales (I fluid oz weighs 1 ounce).

A measuring cyclinder makes things easier. And I'd say you need a thermometer as well.

Thanks Stephen. I guess I'd be looking at a tank that can handle 135 & 120 film as I shoot both. As per my previous post, I really don't want to put anyone in a position where they go out of their way to post something to me though, so ONLY if you would be going to the post office anyway. If you have anything suitable, let me know and we can sort something out as long as it's not an issue re safety.
 
Thanks Ian, that's really useful advice. (y)

It’s possible to get away with one jug simply for dev.
The stop and fix can be poured direct from and back into their respective storage bottles. The dev stage is the most critical re time so one the stop has been applied one can be a little more relaxed with the other processes.
 
I'll take a look - I'm certain I can get something to you. BUT both the parcels I have to send depend on my getting a parcel from a supplier. They posted it on Friday, and according to the tracking of 30 mins ago, ParcelForce haven't yet got it to their hub and have now idea of a delivery date.

As a point of information, the post office in question is a branch one inside a mini supermarket a few minutes walk away (but now using the car!) where I get my fresh milk, so although not a daily trip it is somewhere I do go to.
 
Simarly you may be able to adapt and save a few quid if you have one of those digital food probe style thermometers....take a look to see if it will cover 20 Celsius and of course be sure the boss will let you remove it from her kitchen [emoji23]
 
I'll take a look - I'm certain I can get something to you. BUT both the parcels I have to send depend on my getting a parcel from a supplier. They posted it on Friday, and according to the tracking of 30 mins ago, ParcelForce haven't yet got it to their hub and have now idea of a delivery date.

As a point of information, the post office in question is a branch one inside a mini supermarket a few minutes walk away (but now using the car!) where I get my fresh milk, so although not a daily trip it is somewhere I do go to.

Thanks. Absolutely no urgency on my part whatsoever.
 
Simarly you may be able to adapt and save a few quid if you have one of those digital food probe style thermometers....take a look to see if it will cover 20 Celsius and of course be sure the boss will let you remove it from her kitchen [emoji23]

We already have one of those - I bought it for the turkey at Christmas. My wife hates it when I call her that though, and she wasn't impressed with the gift either. <Badum-tish!>

Seriously though, we do have one, and I bought it so can stick it wherever I like. :D
 
Just check the kitchen thermometer is accurate(ish), I had one that was spot on at 20 degrees but it packed up so I bought the exact same model and it was a couple of degrees out at 20 degrees. I would recommend getting a decent analogue thermometer and using that to check the kitchen one from time to time but then use the kitchen one because they are easier to read and harder to break.
 
Is it a big step from developing the film to actually getting a photo ?
 
Rather than bottles for made-up Stop, Fixer etc I use 500 ml clip seal plastic boxes. Seem to be pretty leak-proof, though I wouldn't want to store them upside down!

You don't absolutely need them, but I've found a box of disposable gloves a real help. I used to use Marigolds (as @Andysnap does), but found that I couldn't operate the timer buttons on my phone with them on. The disposable gloves work well for that.

If you're getting a normal tank then use the Massive Dev Chart app for times and agitation regime; you'll probably not have the same problems anyway (ISTR it auto-progresses). I've never managed to make the MDC app work for the cycle with my constant-rotation Rondinax tank, so just use the timer app.

If you're using HC 110 or some other very concentrated developer, a (non-needle) syringe is a good way of measuring 6.2 ml! When I used Ilfosol 3 (1+9) it was fairly easy to measure 20 ml in a 300 ml cylinder by eye, and make it up to 200 ml.
 
Just checked - sorry for terse style, tapping on tablet. Won't get PC back for several hours.

Have at least 7 Paterson tanks. Would you like a System 4 (old style) that takes 2/1 or 5/3 films? That's 35mm/120. The more films the bigger the parcel.

I assume same address as for the superzoom.
 
Is it a big step from developing the film to actually getting a photo ?

Well, these days it usually involves scanning the film, then PP-ing on the computers, which is a biggish step. The other option is make a contact print or enlargement in a dark room. That IS a big step.
 
Is it a big step from developing the film to actually getting a photo ?

That depends on wether your film developing area is on a different floor to your scanner/ printer/ enlarger/ darkroom and how many steps you stairs you have to climb [emoji23]

Sorry, strange humour as always[emoji55]

A lot depends on what gear you have available and how patient/ passionate you are...... the self satisfaction with a decent print is imo worth it.

Someone else may explain in more detail.... I might but not atm from my phone.
 
Just checked - sorry for terse style, tapping on tablet. Won't get PC back for several hours.

Have at least 7 Paterson tanks. Would you like a System 4 (old style) that takes 2/1 or 5/3 films? That's 35mm/120. The more films the bigger the parcel.

I assume same address as for the superzoom.

Thanks Stephen. I think a 2/1 capacity tank would be sufficient. Yep same address as before. Let me know the costs and I can PayPal or BT some money over to you.

Again, no rush at all - only if it fits in with your other activities and you’re happy / safe to do so.
 
What stuff would I need, chems-wise, to get me started. I have Ilford HP5+, Ilford Delta 400 and a load of Fomapan 100 at present, amongst others, so would need a developer suitable for those (Maybe D76? - I really don't know what I'm on about with this lark though! :runaway:).

Peak use Xtol for their B&W processing and I like how that looks, so that would be another alternative I guess, but I've no idea if different developers pose different challenges or anything.

I'm just a massive n00b! :D
 
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There's 2 main types. Liquid and powder.

Powder requires you to make up a solution beforehand - usually in quite a large quantity, by mixing the powder in water. XTOL is I think 5L so you'll need somewhere to store it. Once made up, powdered chems don't last as long (a few months). They're usually quite cheap and often you keep the solution after you've used it and "replenish" it every so often rather than chuck it. It works well for labs who are developing a lot of film. For me - as a home developer, I bought some XTOL and found it a massive faff. 120 film usually requires 500ml of solution. 35mm usually needs about 300ml (it tells you on the tank how much you need) so 5l goes quite a long way. Not quite sure how many re-uses you get out of it either.

Liquid developer is usually mixed with water at different concentration levels, then you throw it away when you're done. I found this much more user friendly. The 3 developers I've tried are Ilfosol, Rodinal and HC-110.

When you're looking at developers, it's great to try something wacky and out there, but it's often difficult to find developing times. So some people try different dilutions to gfet different results, and it's part of the fun of developing your own - you can experiment! But if you want standard results and don't want to mess about, using recommended dilutions is the way forward.

Rodinal typical dilution is 1+25 (1 part developer, 25 parts water). HC-100 has two common dilutions: A (1+15 I think?) and B (1+31). Ilfosol is 1+9 so you can see you go through a lot more developer per film with Ilfosol than you do with Rodinal or HC-110. Ilfotec-DDX is very highly regarded, but it's a 1+4 dilution and is thus significantly more expensive than the others. Here's my (very sad) chart... Not sure how in-date it is now though. It was a while ago I did it.

hgqehhteq.JPG

For me, I found Rodinal great for high ASA clean films, and with high grain films it was pretty bad. HP5 in Rodinal is awful (in my opinion!), but TMAX100, or Delta 100 are lovely. This year, I've swapped to HC-110 and found a staggering improvement in my higher speed films with no noticeable difference in teh low speed stuff. TMAX100 still looks great, but now, so does HP5. If you shoot predominantly 120 though, you won't notice it as much because the grain is likely much less pronounced when you scan.

Finally, the Massive Dev app is brill. It allows you to store your times and films, and it tells you how much developer/water you need to mix depending on your concentration, and it also has a timer. It's £7 or thereabouts, but it's the best money I spent.

I'm sure others will chime in, but that's my tuppence.
 
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I've been using stock Xtol over the past 13 months, and replenishing it at the rate of 70ml per film. This means discarding 70ml of the 300 or 500ml used to actually develop the film, and this is topped up from the spare containers of the original 5l quantity. Glass marbles are used to top up the container when the 70ml is removed. I used the last of it at the weekend and it worked perfectly on Acros, plus I've used it on FP4+, HP5+ and Fomapan 400 (where it turns green!).

I've got a bottle of HC110 which has been open for a year or so, and I now intend to use it up before going back to Xtol. I use Ilford Ilfostop and Ilford Rapid Fixer as they have been reliable for me, and these are stored at working dilution in 600ml chemical bottles. And enjoy!
 
I use liquid developers because it's less fuss, and I prefer an easy life. After trying a number, I settled on Johnson's Unitol, but that probably went off the market before most of F&C were born! After that, I made the decision to go with a developer whose formula had been published (just in case) and went with Rodinal. As Ian said, it's noted for the grain it gives, but as I only use Pan F and FP4 in 120 and sheet film (not really 35mm any more) it works for me.

For irrelevant to this discussion reasons, I've just taken delivery of a bottle of HC-110 to try.

I prefer an acetic acid stop bath with indicator, and use Ilfofix as my local photographic shop stocks Ilford chemicals. Ilford stop bath uses citric acid, making it odourless. I have encountered mould in a tank with a floating lid with citric acid stop bath in it, but never with acetic acid ones. I always say "I've seen a mouldy lemon but never a mouldy pickled onion" :)

I would recommend purified water for the final rinse, especially if you're in a hard water area, and use of a wetting agent in that final rinse.
 
At the moment I am using XTOL 1+1 and ditching it after each film, which means 250ml of developer plus 250ml of water per 120 film. I made up the 5l and put it into 1l bottles (ex sparkling water bottles) and then froze two and kept 3 in the fridge. The bottles are very flimsy easy to squash so I just squash all the air out.

Other than XTOL I have mainly used HC-110 over the last couple of years because it can be mixed up in the quantity you need as you need it and it keeps well. The syrup is very thick and really needs a syringe to measure it out, you can get suitable syringes from fleabay, IIRC 16ml of syrup makes 500ml for 120, or 9ml makes 320ml for 35mm film.

Otherwise, any stop and fix, I'm currently using a Fotospeed rapid fix that takes 2 minutes instead of five. I'm only using that because I ordered it by accident. And as Stephen says a wetting agent in the final rinse is a good idea.

Also getting the Massive Dev Chart phone app is a few quid well spent.
 
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Just going through in my head what I actually use

600ml graduated measuring cylinder
100ml graduated measuring cylinder
Thermometer
Developer
Stop Bath
Fixer
Dark bag
Tank
Massive Dev Chart app
Wetting agent
Clips

Measure the chemicals, get them up to temperature, get the film in the tank, start the app, develop, stop, fix, rinse, dry.
 
Xtol is lovely for grain, but i had a couple of bad experiences with it just suddenly stop working without changing colour or doing anything to give you an incling that its on its way out. Not sure if the more modern formulations have solved that. Fomapans Fomadon Excel is supposed to be a very similar chemical but available in 1l packets for a couple of quid afaik. I tend to use ID-11. Does nothing spectacular but readily available so can order alongside other bits, lasts ages in stock, can be replenished or used as one shot, and there's times available for nearly every film out there.
 
Stuff is ordered and on its way (+ Stephen's kindly donated tank). Still need some jugs (and possibly another thermometer if the kitchen one I have isn't suitable), but I'll get those from Amazon or somewhere. I'll probably just use some empty pop bottles for storage until I can get something better.

It's not cheap to get started, but hopefully it will pay for itself if I get the hang of it!

Hopefully I won't b0!!0x it up too badly. :)
 
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Instead of pricy film clips, I use metal bulldog clips. No idea where I got them from, I've a feeling I bought something from a F&C person who chucked half a dozen in. Big rubber band through the hole in the handle, up and over the shower rail, pass the clip through, clip film, other clip on the bottom.
 
Instead of pricy film clips, I use metal bulldog clips. No idea where I got them from, I've a feeling I bought something from a F&C person who chucked half a dozen in. Big rubber band through the hole in the handle, up and over the shower rail, pass the clip through, clip film, other clip on the bottom.

Thats a good idea. I've been using the hangers from the girls clothes but they can leave a slightly too large mark on the corner if I'm not careful.
 
I use the Paterson clips now, but when I started I also used bulldog clips.
 
I settled on Johnson's Unitol, but that probably went off the market before most of F&C were born!

Ah Memories and great stuff, why doesn't someone bring it back....erm well providing it's not a silly price compared to the old days.
 
I still have the Unitol calculator, just in case... And I have in the past spent time looking for the recipe/formula. The only other developer I used and was happy with overall was the original Acutol (not Acutol-S).
 
Quick question (undoubtedly the first of many)...

The Massive Dev Chart app has a stage for Hypo Clear. Is this necessary? None of the other guides I've looked at have used Hypo Clear - they've all been Dev / Stop / Fix / Wash.

Ta.

THat's all I've ever done and all the tutorials I saw before getting started were the same. Dev, stop, fix, wash, hang to dry.
 
I've never used hypo clear, and my negatives from the early sixties are still fine.
 
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