Film processing basics

[macmike]

I have a question, more out of curiosity than anything. What's the minimum amount of equipment needed to develop a standard film at home?

Thanks

 

[AliB]

B&W or colour?
They are different processes.

 

[macmike]

colour!

 

[macmike]

or B&W, if it's easier :shrug:

 

[AliB]

Black and white is easier!

http://www.ilfordphoto.com/aboutus/page.asp?n=31

 

[Ally]

Go B&W, colour is too much hassle!

 

[CT]

Well if you really want to develop colour then processing E6 slide film has the least equipment requirement - just a developing tank, a thermometer, a few measures and the chemicals.

The problem with processing colour film is maintaining a reasonably consistent temperature throughout the process, but it can be done in a home environment with minimum equipment and a bit of care.

I'd highly recommend starting with black and white first, as temperature is not so critical, and it will familiarise you with the process before you tackle colour.

 

[Matt Sayle]

B and W is really easy to process

 

[kiasdad]

If it helps, I have some easy to follow instructions on my website.

http://www.monomagic.co.uk/technique.php

Just click on "Perfect HP5 plus negatives with Perceptol " for detailed instructions.
All you need is:
A developing tank & spirals
couple of thermometers
A washing up bowl
Jugs for holding developer, stop, fix and plain water
Some measuring cylinders for measuring out chemicals
Bottles for keeping chemicals in - I use concertina bottles.

Have fun!

 

[EdBray]

Don't forget the following:

A changing bag or light tight room! Changing bad is usually more convenient. It is a lot harder to make a room completely light tight than you may think. And if you think how sensitive an ISO400 film is then it will not take much light leaking in to ruin it.

Scissors

Film Clips or some form of clip for hanging films to dry. and a weight of some sort for the other end. Suggest that you hang film to dry in the bathroom after someone has had a shower (keeps the dust down).

Bottle opener for the more awkward cassettes. Some Kodak 35mm cassettes could be buggers to open. Ilford tops usually just flip off (That's not me swearing BTW).

I do not agree that monochrome processing is easier than colour, neither are difficult, and provided that you keep your chemical bottles in a water bath (washing up bowl) with the water at 2 degrees higher than the required processing temperature all will be well. If you really want to make it easy, buy a reasonable fishtank heater/thermostat and drop it in the washing up bowl. There are 2 bath C41 kits available that work well!

 

[macmike]

Wow, thanks for the responses guys. One day, when I have plenty of time I'm very keen to try this. I'm really a tog of the digital age and feel I've missed a whole era :bonk:

 

[kiasdad]

Don't forget the following:


Bottle opener for the more awkward cassettes. Some Kodak 35mm cassettes could be buggers to open. Ilford tops usually just flip off (That's not me swearing BTW).

I prefer to use a film leader extractor. Much safer I think. Some people don't like them as they say they can cause the film to become scratched. Never had a problem. After all, the film's been out and back into the cassette at least once anyway.

 

[CT]

A lot of more modern cameras have a setting which rewinds the film and leaves the leader out of the cassette.

Even on old fully manual cameras, it's pretty easy to rewind the film manually, and you actually feel the moment that the film detaches from the take up spool as the tension is released on the rewind knob, Stop winding at that moment and open the back - there's the cassette with the leader out.

 

[Nicos Rex]

I prefer to use a film leader extractor. Much safer I think. Some people don't like them as they say they can cause the film to become scratched. Never had a problem. After all, the film's been out and back into the cassette at least once anyway.

Ideally you need a combination of the 2.

In order for the film to behave itself when you are getting it into the spiral you need to prepare the leader end and this is difficult to do in the dark. On the other hand I have never been overly keen on pulling the whole film out of the cassette for fear of generating static which not only attracts dust but can on rare occasions spark and fog parts of the film.

Thus my (somewhat anal) routine is to extract the leader, cut it straight between the sprocket holes and then snip the corners off to bevel the ends.

I then wind it back in and open in the dark by putting the edge of the end cap on the corner of the worktop edge and giving the cassette a downward whack - much easier to do that to describe but you get the general idea! The film and spool can then be taken out and the film wound into the spiral.

 

[EdBray]

I then wind it back in and open in the dark by putting the edge of the end cap on the corner of the worktop edge and giving the cassette a downward whack - much easier to do that to describe but you get the general idea! The film and spool can then be taken out and the film wound into the spiral.

I'll be interested in seeing you do that in a changing bag

 

[CT]

I'll be interested in seeing you do that in a changing bag

PMSL!

Actually I've always rounded the corners too, I'm a dyed -in-the wool- rewind- and- leave -the -leader- out type anyway.

 

[EdBray]

I too always cut the leader straight across and then cut the corners off too, but I have always popped the top of the cassette rather than take the film back out through the cassette. Just horses for courses I suppose.