The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

Had a wander round downtown Manchester last night. Went specifically to get an eye watering shot of this bridge. In daylight it looks as though it will be stunning lit up at night. I'm a bit underwhelmed by the outcome. Any thoughts?

I think it's a great shot. I love the complex patterns of the overlapping bridges and the reflections and the lighting. I'd be delighted with that shot although it's possible my taste is suspect.

Castlefields at night by Frank Yates2010, on Flickr
 
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I messed up doing the quote thingy. You should have seen it before i edited it.
 
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A couple of shots I took this afternoon around 5, the big contrasty Sky caught my eye, I finally had an opportunity to use my Lee seven5 soft grads, I used the .9 and .6 together as the sky was seriously bright, had to set the focal length to around 12mm on my 10-24 as the smaller Lee filters vignette at 10mm. Shots are sooc.

Really nice captures. To start with I preferred the second shot but the more I look at then I think I like them both the same. Very nice colours and contrast
 
No space in my lens cupboard, no lens funds in my bank. :(

However, if you want to buy my Minolta 50mm macro along with the fuji x adapter for £349 that would solve those two issues and I'll happily road test it for everyone :cool:

I'm still afflicted by GAS, just added the 23mm f1.4 (this months lens!, so just the 90 to go now to complete the 14/23/35/56/90 lineup!!! (Rapidly catching @Barrysprout up, as I have the Samyang, 8mm, Fuji 60mm and 3 Fuji zooms (18-55, 18-135, 50-230, when will it all end??)
 
Fuji X-T10 and 50-230
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Great work :) No. 1 and 4 for me. The 50-230mm is incredible for what it is. I got mine as part of the Fuji promotion a while back and am keeping hold of it!

It certainly is its not a lens that I use that much but with the x100s it's a really good combination
 
Love this time of year... Great to get out with a bit of sun and a chill in the air!








These are nice Dave, Not often you see this type of shot in B&W but for me your treatment of the images works very well. Helped by the good use of a large aperture to isolate the subjects.(y)

George.
 
Got the XE1, thinking about swapping to the XT10, worth the upgrade?
 
Got the XE1, thinking about swapping to the XT10, worth the upgrade?

Mike, the way this goes is that we start to ask you questions to help determine if the upgrade will be worthwhile for you.

All the usual stuff, what does the X-E1 not do that you want it to?
Followed by things like, do you really need these features? And, you could try doing this with the X-E1 instead which would give similar results.

At the end of the day though, you are a camera owner and are susceptible to G.A.S. the same as we all are. So the fact that you have even had the thought of upgrading means that you eventually will anyway.

Get the order placed and welcome to the club! :D(y)
 
Mike, the way this goes is that we start to ask you questions to help determine if the upgrade will be worthwhile for you.

All the usual stuff, what does the X-E1 not do that you want it to?
Followed by things like, do you really need these features? And, you could try doing this with the X-E1 instead which would give similar results.

At the end of the day though, you are a camera owner and are susceptible to G.A.S. the same as we all are. So the fact that you have even had the thought of upgrading means that you eventually will anyway.

Get the order placed and welcome to the club! :D(y)

Barry, stop it please, you're talking common sense, you know that has nothing to do with my decision :)

Does the X-E1 limit me? Not really if i'm completely honest, although to be fair I bought it second hand and haven't actually used it that much yet, so not tested it in low light / night shots.
Guess I was just intrigued if others had gone the same route and what their experiences were.
 
Don't do it for the sensor - the IQ is on a par (or some might say the X-E1 has the superior sensor for skin tones)

Only do it if the handling and autofocus of the X-E1 is letting you down.
 
Don't do it for the sensor - the IQ is on a par (or some might say the X-E1 has the superior sensor for skin tones)

Only do it if the handling and autofocus of the X-E1 is letting you down.

Thanks, so far, in my very limited experience, the only times i've had issues with autofocus have been with the 55-200 so pretty sure that's the lens and not the camera!
 
Don't do it for the sensor - the IQ is on a par (or some might say the X-E1 has the superior sensor for skin tones)

Only do it if the handling and autofocus of the X-E1 is letting you down.

This ^

I have X100, X-E1, X-E2 and X-T1, the E1 is a fantastic camera (and currently worth diddly squat especially as a trade in!!). If you mainly photograph static objects, then unless you really want a particular feature on the X-T10, then I would stay with the X-E1. If you mainly photograph something that moves, or want a smaller camera, then go for the X-T10.

If you go for the X-T10, then unless you are desperate for small amount of cash you would get for selling an X-E1, then I would keep the X-E1 as a second body (this does not apply if you are getting the trade in bonus!!)
 
This ^

I have X100, X-E1, X-E2 and X-T1, the E1 is a fantastic camera (and currently worth diddly squat especially as a trade in!!). If you mainly photograph static objects, then unless you really want a particular feature on the X-T10, then I would stay with the X-E1. If you mainly photograph something that moves, or want a smaller camera, then go for the X-T10.

If you go for the X-T10, then unless you are desperate for small amount of cash you would get for selling an X-E1, then I would keep the X-E1 as a second body (this does not apply if you are getting the trade in bonus!!)

Great advice, thanks. Most of what I shoot is landscapes so yes, probably just camera lust rather than anything else!
 
Great advice, thanks. Most of what I shoot is landscapes so yes, probably just camera lust rather than anything else!

Then put the money in glass rather than body, or a decent tripod, filters, arca bracket, etc

We all get camera lust (some more than others), but at the end of the day all of us would admit that a newer camera doesn't take any better pictures!!!
 
Then put the money in glass rather than body, or a decent tripod, filters, arca bracket, etc

We all get camera lust (some more than others), but at the end of the day all of us would admit that a newer camera doesn't take any better pictures!!!

Sound advice, get the best lens that Fuji do in the range that you use most (if you don't already own it) and use them until something is really limiting you.
 
Sound advice, get the best lens that Fuji do in the range that you use most (if you don't already own it) and use them until something is really limiting you.
Agreed, as usual, the old rule of better glass over a different camera, is usually sound!

Any advice on best landscape lens, is the 14mm the lens of choice?
 
The 14mm is fantastic and probably my favourite X series lens (and I've got a few!!!). Its wide angle, very little distortion, sharp and compact. However some feel it's not wide enough and plump for the Samyang 12mm, which again is good (not as well made, but optically good), others go for the 10-24, but that is big, and quite a bit heavier.

The 14mm suits the handling of the X-E1 well. If you are flying anywhere, Dixons (Curry's) at the airports have been sell it for under £470 recently, but there are rumours of another Fuji lens cashback deal from 1/11
 
I have the 18-55 and wanted something wider. I looked at the 14mm but it didn't seem to be a great deal wider than what I had. I also looked at the Samyang 12mm but there are reports that this can be a bit soft. I plumped for the 10-24 which is very good, but does suffer from distortion if doing close up very wide shots. It can be corrected so I am happy with it.

No set rules really. Different strokes for different folks. I suspect my ideal would have been a 12mm Fuji but they don't seem to do one.
 
It actually harder to shoot extreme wide angles than people think, you have to be meticulous in scanning the whole frame for undesired features, and to make sure that you have everything in the field of view (and as sharp as you want it!) I found that when I had a Sigma 10-20 on a Canon crop sensor, that once I was over the hey I can shoot really wide phase, because I can, that most of my shots keeper were in the 14-20 range, so I went for the 14mm.

I can understand why people like the 10-24 though, as it gives options, and often a bit of zoom means that they don't have to decamp and move the tripod, etc, but just beware that 10mm is really wide and to shoot successfully at 10mm takes a lot of time, patience and skill. And correcting distortion at 10mm can loose quite a bit of the frame

@mickledore is right - No Set Rules, try the lens out in shop, meet up with a fellow Fuji shooter and try his/hers lenses, find out what your preference is.
 
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