The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

Really like the idea of renaming the custom settings. Hope they bring it to the x100f
 
Has anyone gone through the Fuji blog? I'm going through the articles and a lot of people/photos are using the 18mm f2 which I thought was relatively unpopular.
 
Anorak comment on new firmware

If Portrait/Landscape AF Mode Switching is set, you actually get 3 AF point settings:-

One for landscape and one for each portrait mode, spin the camera through 180 degrees when in POrtrait mode having moved the AF point and you'll see!! Doesn't do the same in Landscape!!

Slightly disappointed comment on new firmware

Increased Timer to 15 mins, would have liked a lot more steps between 60 seconds and 15 mins, especially in the minutes which goes 60s, 2m, 4m, 8m, 15m - going to be less useful for Long Exposure work than I hoped, but still very useful when you've left the remote release at home!


The rest of it is pretty cool, not sure how much I'll use but a great update never the less.
 
Mr Perceptive said:
Anorak comment on new firmware[/

Slightly disappointed comment on new firmware

Increased Timer to 15 mins, would have liked a lot more steps between 60 seconds and 15 mins, especially in the minutes which goes 60s, 2m, 4m, 8m, 15m - going to be less useful for Long Exposure work than I hoped, but still very useful when you've left the remote release at home.
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Though the same thing, shame they didn't make a few steps. Half stops would have been nice.
 
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Mr Perceptive said:
Anorak comment on new firmware

If Portrait/Landscape AF Mode Switching is set, you actually get 3 AF point settings:-

One for landscape and one for each portrait mode, spin the camera through 180 degrees when in POrtrait mode having moved the AF point and you'll see!! Doesn't do the same in Landscape!!

Slightly disappointed comment on new firmware

Increased Timer to 15 mins, would have liked a lot more steps between 60 seconds and 15 mins, especially in the minutes which goes 60s, 2m, 4m, 8m, 15m - going to be less useful for Long Exposure work than I hoped, but still very useful when you've left the remote release at home!


The rest of it is pretty cool, not sure how much I'll use but a great update never the less.
Click to expand...

In practice one stop intervals is all you need. long exposures are perhaps surprisingly uncritical. If you are that bothered you can take up the 1/3 stops differences with the aperture setting. Though in raw shooting you would be hard pressed to see any difference at all.
Even with 1/2 stop settings you are unlikely to be more than 1/4 of a stop out.
 
On the subject of the Fuji professional service, if you have the qualifying equipment free for 2 years, a value of £520. A perfect opportunity for some man maths :rolleyes: Say you miss the qualifying criteria by one body or one lens, then value of said item x - £520 = bargain !:)
 
AdamNZ said:
Kind of off topic but Fuji related. Anyone shooting raw+jpeg got any tips about workflow in lightroom. Mine has become a mess.
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I import both, autostack by capture time, expand all stacks, select all, select the raw files using the filter and then use the 'move down in stack' command to put all the raw files at the bottom.

When you collapse the stacks you then have all the jpg files on the top, and only need to expand and select the raw if you want to work on it.

There are a couple of problems with this though - ratings and keywords for example only apply to the top item if stacks are collapsed - there is an addon that will push them down, but I don't use it, and if you use burst mode, the stacks don't work well with autostack, so that can need a bit of a manual tidy.

Overall through, it takes less than 2 min per import to perform this.
 
AdamNZ said:
Kind of off topic but Fuji related. Anyone shooting raw+jpeg got any tips about workflow in lightroom. Mine has become a mess.
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OK, I'm not a raw shooter at all BUT used to shoot both negs and slides so vaguely parallel to raw/JPEG. I'd store them in different sub folders marked raw and JPEG and use the JPEGs as proofs to see which files need more attention using the raw files. For an awful lot of them, I reckon that the extra fiddling with the raw files will be unnoticed by most people who see the results and any "improvements" will be in the eye of the beholder which will always be subjective anyway! Once you've got the files saved, just use your normal workflow during PP and save final images as normal, in another subfolder. Since working on JPEG files is pretty much a one way trip for them. I make a second folder in every folder which I call "Originals" so if (OK, WHEN!) I balls the PP up, I still have an untouched copy which I can recopy into the work-on section. As I understand it, raw file editing is 100% reversible so that extra copy woulkd be redundant other than as a backup for drive failure.
 
Nod said:
OK, I'm not a raw shooter at all BUT used to shoot both negs and slides so vaguely parallel to raw/JPEG. I'd store them in different sub folders marked raw and JPEG and use the JPEGs as proofs to see which files need more attention using the raw files. For an awful lot of them, I reckon that the extra fiddling with the raw files will be unnoticed by most people who see the results and any "improvements" will be in the eye of the beholder which will always be subjective anyway! Once you've got the files saved, just use your normal workflow during PP and save final images as normal, in another subfolder. Since working on JPEG files is pretty much a one way trip for them. I make a second folder in every folder which I call "Originals" so if (OK, WHEN!) I balls the PP up, I still have an untouched copy which I can recopy into the work-on section. As I understand it, raw file editing is 100% reversible so that extra copy woulkd be redundant other than as a backup for drive failure.
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I shoot raw+jpeg but do more or less the same thing. I always keep a untouched copy, sort of like a negative in case I mess things up. That's when I get a chance to use my camera.
 
I shoot both, but only import raws. I only use the jpgs for a)more zoom on the rear screen, and b)quick mobile edits for shots that come out good SOOC.

If I decide a photo needs more work, it's because the jpg wont cut it, so then there is no need to keep it.
 
Terrywoodenpic said:
In practice one stop intervals is all you need. long exposures are perhaps surprisingly uncritical. If you are that bothered you can take up the 1/3 stops differences with the aperture setting. Though in raw shooting you would be hard pressed to see any difference at all.
Even with 1/2 stop settings you are unlikely to be more than 1/4 of a stop out.
Click to expand...

That's true I'm being picky now.
 
I'm reading a lot about the XT10 failing in high humidity, I'm going to China soon and I'm worried the humidity might destroy my camera. Would it be wise to trade it in for a XT1 for the weather sealing?
 
Krow said:
I'm reading a lot about the XT10 failing in high humidity, I'm going to China soon and I'm worried the humidity might destroy my camera. Would it be wise to trade it in for a XT1 for the weather sealing?
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I would imagine, perhaps wrongly, that long-term a lens is more at risk, especially of the risk of fungus.
 
Can anyone please tell me how to set up the command dials. I've looked through the new manual but I'm obviously missing something. I can get either front or back dial to control the shutter speed but can't get either to control the aperture. Where am I going wrong?
 
ASH said:
Can anyone please tell me how to set up the command dials. I've looked through the new manual but I'm obviously missing something. I can get either front or back dial to control the shutter speed but can't get either to control the aperture. Where am I going wrong?
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@Stephen L where are you when we need you.
OK. I'll say it RTFM!

If you need your hand holding it is in Set Up Menu>Button/Dial Setting>Command Dial Setting. Simples.

Page 226 of the new user manual as mentioned above.....


jimgallaher said:
Updated user manual for the V2 firmware here:
http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en-int/manual/x-t2_v2/x-t2_omw_en_s_f.pdf
Click to expand...
 
Krow said:
I'm reading a lot about the XT10 failing in high humidity, I'm going to China soon and I'm worried the humidity might destroy my camera. Would it be wise to trade it in for a XT1 for the weather sealing?
Click to expand...


No,

Ensure it's insured new for old and claim if it happens.
 
mickledore said:
@Stephen L where are you when we need you.
OK. I'll say it RTFM!

If you need your hand holding it is in Set Up Menu>Button/Dial Setting>Command Dial Setting. Simples.

Page 226 of the new user manual as mentioned above.....
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Thank you Frank, I've already read that in the new manual. The problem I'm having is neither dial will control the aperture. I'm wondering if it's lens dependant.
 
Krow said:
Has anyone gone through the Fuji blog? I'm going through the articles and a lot of people/photos are using the 18mm f2 which I thought was relatively unpopular.
Click to expand...
I might get one so I'll let you know.
 
ASH said:
Thank you Frank, I've already read that in the new manual. The problem I'm having is neither dial will control the aperture. I'm wondering if it's lens dependant.
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Aperture is controlled from the lens. ISO and shutter can be controlled from the dials
 
ASH said:
Thank you Frank, I've already read that in the new manual. The problem I'm having is neither dial will control the aperture. I'm wondering if it's lens dependant.
Click to expand...

architectfadi said:
Aperture is controlled from the lens. ISO and shutter can be controlled from the dials
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I think you can only use the dials if the lens has no aperture ring (like the 27mm). I remember looking for this when I first switched as I was so used to shooting canon in aperture priority.
 
jimmyjamjojo said:
I think you can only use the dials if the lens has no aperture ring (like the 27mm). I remember looking for this when I first switched as I was so used to shooting canon in aperture priority.
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Yes, you are correct. Never owned these lenses so that function doesn't exist in my case [emoji6]
 
ASH said:
Thank you Frank, I've already read that in the new manual. The problem I'm having is neither dial will control the aperture. I'm wondering if it's lens dependant.
Click to expand...
Think I have egg on my face there. I've just tried it and I can't get aperture to change either. Think I owe you an apology:eggface::eggface::eggface:

Must admit it's not something I've ever tried to do. Just always used the ring on the lens. Are there any lenses that don't have an aperture ring?
 
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