The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

Is there a way of recording the in-camera jpeg settings to refer to later?

I'm experimenting with different highlight/colour/shadow settings with the various film simulations to find out which combination works best for me. Short of noting everything down in a book, are the settings recorded in the exif data anywhere?
 
Is there a way of recording the in-camera jpeg settings to refer to later?

I'm experimenting with different highlight/colour/shadow settings with the various film simulations to find out which combination works best for me. Short of noting everything down in a book, are the settings recorded in the exif data anywhere?


On the rear screen while reviewing a shot, press the DISP/BACK button once from the plain picture display and you'll see a pretty detailed EXIF displayed including the JPEG settings (like DR, WB, FILM etc.)
 
On the rear screen while reviewing a shot, press the DISP/BACK button once from the plain picture display and you'll see a pretty detailed EXIF displayed including the JPEG settings (like DR, WB, FILM etc.)

Yes, I'm doing that - I'm hoping there's a way I can do this in Lightroom when I've got the image on a bigger screen.

If not, it's back to pencil and notepad which usually serves me well!
 
If you are not getting the processing results you like from Fuji I suggest you are not at the end of your learning curve yet.
I say that because I see numerous example of astonishingly good results from Fuji X cameras.
So it can be done.

It is also true you can not process Fuji files the identical way you would process your canon ones It is also important to chose the Fuji profile not the Adobe one and also the various film profiles can make subtle but important differences. Probably the greatest difference is in how you sharpen the images.

No it's not that at all, I'm fine with Fuji. It's when I'm processing crop and full frame wide by side the difference is very much evident. It's not a Fuji v Canon thing, just crop v full frame. I get exactly the same feeling when I'm only processing crop/ff Canon files.
 
Is there a way of recording the in-camera jpeg settings to refer to later?

I'm experimenting with different highlight/colour/shadow settings with the various film simulations to find out which combination works best for me. Short of noting everything down in a book, are the settings recorded in the exif data anywhere?

Take a look at this:

http://www.fujirumors.com/lightroom...ally-applies-corresponding-profile-lightroom/

That was just a beta but I guess there will be a finished product.

For those who can't be bothered to click the link :)D) it's a Lightroom plugin which reads camera settings from the RAW exif data and applies it in Lightroom.
 
Is there a way of recording the in-camera jpeg settings to refer to later?

I'm experimenting with different highlight/colour/shadow settings with the various film simulations to find out which combination works best for me. Short of noting everything down in a book, are the settings recorded in the exif data anywhere?

OK I totally didn't read your post properly, sorry! What software do you use? I guess it must be in the exif data somewhere (deffo in the RAW file) if that plugin works.
 
Is there a way of recording the in-camera jpeg settings to refer to later?

I'm experimenting with different highlight/colour/shadow settings with the various film simulations to find out which combination works best for me. Short of noting everything down in a book, are the settings recorded in the exif data anywhere?

Right, got it (I think). Install the EXIFPilot tool: http://www.colorpilot.com/exif.html

When you open the folder with your pictures on, select a file and on the properties window to the right, click 'Exif' and scroll down to the section titled 'Fujifilm Maker Note'.
 
Right, got it (I think). Install the EXIFPilot tool: http://www.colorpilot.com/exif.html

When you open the folder with your pictures on, select a file and on the properties window to the right, click 'Exif' and scroll down to the section titled 'Fujifilm Maker Note'.

I'm a Mac user unfortunately so that one's not working, but it looks like it would do it! I only shoot jpegs btw.

I think I"ll just need to spend a day taking a series of identical images and noting the changing setting for each one, before saving the custom settings once I've decided on what I like best.
 
No it's not that at all, I'm fine with Fuji. It's when I'm processing crop and full frame wide by side the difference is very much evident. It's not a Fuji v Canon thing, just crop v full frame. I get exactly the same feeling when I'm only processing crop/ff Canon files.

That will always be true. seen at 100% a big one always beats a little one.
However at printed sizes and at normal screen sizes no one would tell the difference.
 
I'm a Mac user unfortunately so that one's not working, but it looks like it would do it! I only shoot jpegs btw.

I think I"ll just need to spend a day taking a series of identical images and noting the changing setting for each one, before saving the custom settings once I've decided on what I like best.

Yep, all that data is retained inside the JPEG EXIF data. There must be a bunch of tools out there that do this, how about https://www.softmatic.com/mac-exif-viewer.html
 
That will always be true. seen at 100% a big one always beats a little one.
However at printed sizes and at normal screen sizes no one would tell the difference.

A 23mm lens on a crop doesn't equal a 35mm lens on full frame. Shooting stopped down wouldn't be much of an issue granted, but I shoot wide open a lot (I shoot people, specific subjects mainly and have little interest in landscapes etc.). It's that aspect that I find the biggest issue, I'm not fussed about small differences in sharpness etc.
 
A 23mm lens on a crop doesn't equal a 35mm lens on full frame. Shooting stopped down wouldn't be much of an issue granted, but I shoot wide open a lot (I shoot people, specific subjects mainly and have little interest in landscapes etc.). It's that aspect that I find the biggest issue, I'm not fussed about small differences in sharpness etc.

Are you talking about depth of field or lens characteristics e.g. distortion?
 
Well, I've gone and done it, I was after a 55-230 II but bought the 100-400!

It had come up before and I missed it - mostly on purpose as its so expensive, then it came back at a good price, so I thought - nope... not unless the XT1 sells...
Guess what within minutes the flipping thing sells (for a bit less than I wanted)... so I try to talk myself out of it again, this time looking to my wife for sense...
No that didn't work either, she says go for it, but as a final barrier I know that the price is firm but as I'd not got what I wanted on the XT1 I still put in an offer, hopefully that'll stop me buying it when he refuses - a final get out...
lol, no he comes back with another price... damn... guess I just had no choice :D

This was bound to happen though, or something similar - my camera bag was getting much too light with only mostly shed loads of accessories - GAS was seeping under the door with someone on the other side with a pretty heavy set of bellows!

On the up side I know how these things work with me, buy the 55-230 because its cheap and light, but mutter about the range, then at some point buy a 50-200 because its a bit wider and in time get the 100-400 anyway, so at least I should have saved a few quid in trade-ups!
 
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It's a fine lens, I hope you enjoy it. I'm impressed to see it in your sig already :)
 
As above. But you really need the 10-24 to fill the line-up!!! ;) :p
 
lol, no point in wasting time :)

@Nod - give over ;)
 
Just pointing out the gap in your FL range! :p

Go on you KNOW you really want to! :D
 
Just pointing out the gap in your FL range! [emoji14]

Go on you KNOW you really want to! :D
I'd agree, but it'd probably be turned around and end up with me looking for a 100-400 too [emoji1]
 
10-24. 18-135 and 100-400 - what more could a man need (other than 3 bodies and some teleconverters!!!)
 
Well, I've gone and done it, I was after a 55-230 II but bought the 100-400!
It had come up before and I missed it - mostly on purpose as its so expensive, then it came back at a good price, so I thought - nope... not unless the XT1 sells...
Guess what within minutes the flipping thing sells (for a bit less than I wanted)... so I try to talk myself out of it again, this time looking to my wife for sense...
No that didn't work either, she says go for it, but as a final barrier I know that the price is firm but as I'd not got what I wanted on the XT1 I still put in an offer, hopefully that'll stop me buying it when he refuses - a final get out...
lol, no he comes back with another price... damn... guess I just had no choice :D

This was bound to happen though, or something similar - my camera bag was getting much too light with only mostly shed loads of accessories - GAS was seeping under the door with someone on the other side with a pretty heavy set of bellows!

On the up side I know how these things work with me, buy the 55-230 because its cheap and light, but mutter about the range, then at some point buy a 50-200 because its a bit wider and in time get the 100-400 anyway, so at least I should have saved a few quid in trade-ups!

That's a nice line-up you have now! :D How are you finding the X-T20? I found myself getting a little frustrated at a wedding on Saturday (not as the main shooter, obvs!) as the 56/1.2 was missing quite a few shots on the X-T10. I guess I'll need to upgrade at some point to see if performance of the 56 is improved.
 
Annoyingly not used it anywhere near enough (especially given what I've spent!) - that said I do miss the ISO dial, but less each time I use it, other than that its still very new to me but liking it all the same.

I'm hoping to get out a little today and even drag the Samyang along,
 
Hi guys, I've been using my XT-2 for several mouths now as a second camera to my Canon 5D3 for events photography. I deliberately decided to use the XT-2 more than the Canon this weekend to shoot a charity event. This was quite a fast paced shoot and I was constantly moving around to different locations and using the camera in Continuous AF with both the 16-55mm lens and the 100-400mm lens.

On quite a number of occasions I found the camera simply locked up and the focus joystick stopped working and sometimes all controls stopped too. The only way to fix this was cycled the power. There didn't seem to be any particular pattern to this behaviour. But it obviously meant I missed quite a number of shoots when it happened!

Then later that day I swapped to the 100-400 lens and the camera just started shooting on its own, as if in burst mode when I switched it on. This was very disconcerting and the only way to fix this was cycled the power again. I was using the battery grip in boost mode.

I was wondering if others have experienced these issues?
 
Had a couple of lock ups on mine but I using very slow cards and put it down to that.

Doesn't sound normal Matt.

Maybe worth contacting Fuji and discussing with them?
 
Had a couple of lock ups on mine but I using very slow cards and put it down to that.

Doesn't sound normal Matt.

Maybe worth contacting Fuji and discussing with them?

Yes I think I will contact them about this, I was using fast cards and the battery grip in boost mode, it was a real shame, because when the camera works I was able to capture some cracking shoots!
 
Im not for a second implying its the cards causing the issue but i understand Fuji recommend cards of 250 mbs,there are a few threads on depreview about this
 
I'm using original Fuji battery and a couple of third party batteries in the grip and I was wondering about that too, but is the camera firmware really that flaky? Unless you use Fuji batteries?
Apparently the s varient is impotant if using 4k to stop overheating ,told to us by Ben Cherry the fuji shooter at nec show but continuous shooting like you were doing would also i believe cause a problem with the lesser battery
 
I think if you used the correct s type batteries plus rec cards speedwise and you still have a problem then its definately faulty but with what youve said re cards batteries,im not altogether suprised
 
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