The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

Do you feel the T2 is really a significant upgrade over the T1? Just curious to hear direct from someone who owns both. There's a few things about the 2 I want, but I wonder how much more is it really worth? For a shooter like me who will PP to achieve my end goal for any image regardless of camera or lens used. I am used to high end gear, I've used FX Nikons and some lovely glass over time, I was spoiled at one stage tbh. I do remember not having to sharpen or clean up noise as much toward the XT-1 ... but, I still love my wee Fooj :) What does the XT-2 offer an XT-1 shooter beyond that? I'm with you on awaiting price drops

These are my opinions having shot with X-Trans2 since it was released and now having shot on X-Trans3 for a year. The images from an X-Trans3 are sharper (full stop), thus was brought home to me recently as I've recently shot over 1500 images on an X100F, the X100 series is not known for having the sharpest lens, I thought that the higher MP count if the X-Trans3 would show its inacquacies more, but this just isn't the case, I getting some wonderfully sharp images, and in fact I'm staggered at what this combo is capable of.

IMO a correctly exposed X-Trans3 image has very good shadow recovery, much better than X-Trans2, I know that there are some disbelievers about this but I have posted examples in the past on this thread, and my thoughts have been backed up by one of Fuji's X photographers who I had a long conversation with.I am very much a histogram shooter, and you really do have to make the best use of the sensor dynamic range (expose correctly) to get good shadow recovery.

I am also getting much better results at High ISOs, I'm regularly shooting at ISO6400 and finding that I have very acceptable image, something I couldn't do with X-Trans2, in fact one of my custom auto ISO modes on the X100F is 6400 with a min speed of 1/200, I've been using this as a general walkabout (Street,etc) as I know I can deal with the image noise, and it guarantees me a sharp image. Again making use of the histogram is important, under exposed high ISO images will always be difficult to recovery from. And now as @psybear will testify, getting the exposure right reduces the noise in long exposure images as well.

Now they are just the X-Trans3 benefits, to which you can add higher resolution giving the option of more cropping variation.

On top of that the X-T2, has a number of function benefits, of which the ones that I've found useful are:-

The joystick, a dream to use, makes focus point selection very fast, so much so that I think I'd be hard pressed to buy a camera without this function.

The ability to set different focus points in landscape and portrait mode, sounds like a gimmick, but it really isn't, if you want to focus 1/3 of the way up into the sim age, you can set this in both landscape and portrait modes and you can taller the camera orientation and not have to move the AF point with the joystick.

It's just faster, and this helps make the user experience nicer, in fact the whole handling and button assignment options make it a better handling camera.

The AF speed is noticeably quicker, very very obvious on the original X mount lenses (18/35/60) and the zone tracking is really usable and much better than the X-T1

IMO it really is a significant upgrade, and was a big step in the X series camera development, the longer you leave the change the more you'll say I'd wish I'd done it sooner when you do.
 
I would echo all of David's sentiments above. I have an X-T1 & a T2, and the T1 only ever gets used if I have my 100-400 & grip on the T2, set up for wildlife/birds, and I need to shoot something with a shorter lens. The joystick really separates the two cameras in terms of usability, but the high ISO performance is noticeably better. The screen, tilting sideways really helps me, I have issues kneeling, and this means that I can now use the camera low to the ground in portrait mode.

It's just a much better camera, and with the grip, the performance is better again.
 
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These are my opinions having shot with X-Trans2 since it was released and now having shot on X-Trans3 for a year. The images from an X-Trans3 are sharper (full stop), thus was brought home to me recently as I've recently shot over 1500 images on an X100F, the X100 series is not known for having the sharpest lens, I thought that the higher MP count if the X-Trans3 would show its inacquacies more, but this just isn't the case, I getting some wonderfully sharp images, and in fact I'm staggered at what this combo is capable of.

IMO a correctly exposed X-Trans3 image has very good shadow recovery, much better than X-Trans2, I know that there are some disbelievers about this but I have posted examples in the past on this thread, and my thoughts have been backed up by one of Fuji's X photographers who I had a long conversation with.I am very much a histogram shooter, and you really do have to make the best use of the sensor dynamic range (expose correctly) to get good shadow recovery.

I am also getting much better results at High ISOs, I'm regularly shooting at ISO6400 and finding that I have very acceptable image, something I couldn't do with X-Trans2, in fact one of my custom auto ISO modes on the X100F is 6400 with a min speed of 1/200, I've been using this as a general walkabout (Street,etc) as I know I can deal with the image noise, and it guarantees me a sharp image. Again making use of the histogram is important, under exposed high ISO images will always be difficult to recovery from. And now as @psybear will testify, getting the exposure right reduces the noise in long exposure images as well.

Now they are just the X-Trans3 benefits, to which you can add higher resolution giving the option of more cropping variation.

On top of that the X-T2, has a number of function benefits, of which the ones that I've found useful are:-

The joystick, a dream to use, makes focus point selection very fast, so much so that I think I'd be hard pressed to buy a camera without this function.

The ability to set different focus points in landscape and portrait mode, sounds like a gimmick, but it really isn't, if you want to focus 1/3 of the way up into the sim age, you can set this in both landscape and portrait modes and you can taller the camera orientation and not have to move the AF point with the joystick.

It's just faster, and this helps make the user experience nicer, in fact the whole handling and button assignment options make it a better handling camera.

The AF speed is noticeably quicker, very very obvious on the original X mount lenses (18/35/60) and the zone tracking is really usable and much better than the X-T1

IMO it really is a significant upgrade, and was a big step in the X series camera development, the longer you leave the change the more you'll say I'd wish I'd done it sooner when you do.

I did personally find the suttle changes to the xt2 made a huge improvement to how the camera feels in the hand. The dials in particular. Doesn't look an awful lot different but to me it was a big improvement and just felt right.
 
I did personally find the suttle changes to the xt2 made a huge improvement to how the camera feels in the hand. The dials in particular. Doesn't look an awful lot different but to me it was a big improvement and just felt right.

Dials.... The locking system is so much better on the T2
 
Wonder how the 80mm macro will shape up against the 90mm for portraits?

I'd take the 90mm for portraits. Bokeh should be nicer, more compression and it's super fast to focus. Sure, the macro will be sharp but the 90 is very sharp and macros tend to be not be the fastest to focus.

The 90mm does get quite close too. Not macro, but close.

28011833312_8d05c0f165_o.jpg
 
I'd take the 90mm for portraits. Bokeh should be nicer, more compression and it's super fast to focus. Sure, the macro will be sharp but the 90 is very sharp and macros tend to be not be the fastest to focus.

The 90mm does get quite close too. Not macro, but close.

View attachment 110195

Add the extension rings and you'll get in close
 
Still considering X-T2. Got my DSLR kit in the Classifieds.

But my X100f may have to make way if I do. Not sure I can afford to own both...bugger..
 
These are my opinions having shot with X-Trans2 since it was released and now having shot on X-Trans3 for a year. The images from an X-Trans3 are sharper (full stop), thus was brought home to me recently as I've recently shot over 1500 images on an X100F, the X100 series is not known for having the sharpest lens, I thought that the higher MP count if the X-Trans3 would show its inacquacies more, but this just isn't the case, I getting some wonderfully sharp images, and in fact I'm staggered at what this combo is capable of.

IMO a correctly exposed X-Trans3 image has very good shadow recovery, much better than X-Trans2, I know that there are some disbelievers about this but I have posted examples in the past on this thread, and my thoughts have been backed up by one of Fuji's X photographers who I had a long conversation with.I am very much a histogram shooter, and you really do have to make the best use of the sensor dynamic range (expose correctly) to get good shadow recovery.

I am also getting much better results at High ISOs, I'm regularly shooting at ISO6400 and finding that I have very acceptable image, something I couldn't do with X-Trans2, in fact one of my custom auto ISO modes on the X100F is 6400 with a min speed of 1/200, I've been using this as a general walkabout (Street,etc) as I know I can deal with the image noise, and it guarantees me a sharp image. Again making use of the histogram is important, under exposed high ISO images will always be difficult to recovery from. And now as @psybear will testify, getting the exposure right reduces the noise in long exposure images as well.

Now they are just the X-Trans3 benefits, to which you can add higher resolution giving the option of more cropping variation.

On top of that the X-T2, has a number of function benefits, of which the ones that I've found useful are:-

The joystick, a dream to use, makes focus point selection very fast, so much so that I think I'd be hard pressed to buy a camera without this function.

The ability to set different focus points in landscape and portrait mode, sounds like a gimmick, but it really isn't, if you want to focus 1/3 of the way up into the sim age, you can set this in both landscape and portrait modes and you can taller the camera orientation and not have to move the AF point with the joystick.

It's just faster, and this helps make the user experience nicer, in fact the whole handling and button assignment options make it a better handling camera.

The AF speed is noticeably quicker, very very obvious on the original X mount lenses (18/35/60) and the zone tracking is really usable and much better than the X-T1

IMO it really is a significant upgrade, and was a big step in the X series camera development, the longer you leave the change the more you'll say I'd wish I'd done it sooner when you do.

Sounds good, tbh the only reason I haven't upgraded is purely financial. Oh how I miss the time I was able to walk into a camera store and come out with a new camera and a bag of lenses. For now, the XT1 is plenty sufficient for my actual needs, I have the xpro1 on side and I do like having that extra body for my MF lenses. I'd have to sell all to just get the xt-2 body, and I'd really want to have the grip as a regular add on too.
 
Sounds good, tbh the only reason I haven't upgraded is purely financial. Oh how I miss the time I was able to walk into a camera store and come out with a new camera and a bag of lenses. For now, the XT1 is plenty sufficient for my actual needs, I have the xpro1 on side and I do like having that extra body for my MF lenses. I'd have to sell all to just get the xt-2 body, and I'd really want to have the grip as a regular add on too.

Where you based, if you close to the Oxford area you can have a play with more he to see if you think it's worth it.
 
Do you feel the T2 is really a significant upgrade over the T1? Just curious to hear direct from someone who owns both. There's a few things about the 2 I want, but I wonder how much more is it really worth? For a shooter like me who will PP to achieve my end goal for any image regardless of camera or lens used. I am used to high end gear, I've used FX Nikons and some lovely glass over time, I was spoiled at one stage tbh. I do remember not having to sharpen or clean up noise as much toward the XT-1 ... but, I still love my wee Fooj :) What does the XT-2 offer an XT-1 shooter beyond that? I'm with you on awaiting price drops



Plus it looks like a right 'tourist' camera so nobody will ever bother you for taking their picture, more pity you :D


Can only echo what others have already said. I was planning to wait a while before making the upgrade but after a quick play with the 2 in LCE, I felt the difference in handling (on/off locks on dials, faster EVF refresh, joystick AF point to name but 3!) so plonked the card on the desk! IMO it was/is a significant enough upgrade to have been worth doing at release price so when the 3 is released and the 2's price drops, I'll be picking a couple more up.
 
So, if I buy X-T2 It'll be with the 18-55 and from Panamoz £1370

But I've just been reading on the Fuji X forum about lock ups, anyone here had any issues?
 
These are my opinions having shot with X-Trans2 since it was released and now having shot on X-Trans3 for a year. The images from an X-Trans3 are sharper (full stop), thus was brought home to me recently as I've recently shot over 1500 images on an X100F, the X100 series is not known for having the sharpest lens, I thought that the higher MP count if the X-Trans3 would show its inacquacies more, but this just isn't the case, I getting some wonderfully sharp images, and in fact I'm staggered at what this combo is capable of.

IMO a correctly exposed X-Trans3 image has very good shadow recovery, much better than X-Trans2, I know that there are some disbelievers about this but I have posted examples in the past on this thread, and my thoughts have been backed up by one of Fuji's X photographers who I had a long conversation with.I am very much a histogram shooter, and you really do have to make the best use of the sensor dynamic range (expose correctly) to get good shadow recovery.

I am also getting much better results at High ISOs, I'm regularly shooting at ISO6400 and finding that I have very acceptable image, something I couldn't do with X-Trans2, in fact one of my custom auto ISO modes on the X100F is 6400 with a min speed of 1/200, I've been using this as a general walkabout (Street,etc) as I know I can deal with the image noise, and it guarantees me a sharp image. Again making use of the histogram is important, under exposed high ISO images will always be difficult to recovery from. And now as @psybear will testify, getting the exposure right reduces the noise in long exposure images as well.

Now they are just the X-Trans3 benefits, to which you can add higher resolution giving the option of more cropping variation.

On top of that the X-T2, has a number of function benefits, of which the ones that I've found useful are:-

The joystick, a dream to use, makes focus point selection very fast, so much so that I think I'd be hard pressed to buy a camera without this function.

The ability to set different focus points in landscape and portrait mode, sounds like a gimmick, but it really isn't, if you want to focus 1/3 of the way up into the sim age, you can set this in both landscape and portrait modes and you can taller the camera orientation and not have to move the AF point with the joystick.

It's just faster, and this helps make the user experience nicer, in fact the whole handling and button assignment options make it a better handling camera.

The AF speed is noticeably quicker, very very obvious on the original X mount lenses (18/35/60) and the zone tracking is really usable and much better than the X-T1

IMO it really is a significant upgrade, and was a big step in the X series camera development, the longer you leave the change the more you'll say I'd wish I'd done it sooner when you do.


My thoughts and opinions exactly Sir, and I agree with everything you say here.(y)

George.
 
So, if I buy X-T2 It'll be with the 18-55 and from Panamoz £1370

But I've just been reading on the Fuji X forum about lock ups, anyone here had any issues?

They only lock up until your cheque has cleared Sir.:whistle::D:D

"Seriously though neither me or any of the guys that work for us have ever experienced that"

George.
 
So, if I buy X-T2 It'll be with the 18-55 and from Panamoz £1370

But I've just been reading on the Fuji X forum about lock ups, anyone here had any issues?
Only lockups I've heard of come when doing heavy videoing with the older style batteries. Very much a testers phenomenon. Our Atlantic cousins tested a new T2 almost to destruction to find it. Normal shooting, even on continuous, with old or new batteries cause no problems.
Hasn't been mentioned for some time so the problem cannot occur very often.
I wouldn't worry about it.
 
So, if I buy X-T2 It'll be with the 18-55 and from Panamoz £1370

But I've just been reading on the Fuji X forum about lock ups, anyone here had any issues?

Hi Trevor, I read about the lock ups on the Fuji X forum, so I asked them about it, plus I Googled it. It turns out that some members of that forum really do push their system even when the buffer was full, and also Lear cards. I have not and will not push my X-T2 like that, I have a Red button on mine and today rattled off about 70 and it was FINE. Another reason I heard was Uncompressed/Compressed Raf file. It did not stop me getting the X-T2 as it was a case of nothing is going to stop me from getting this great X series camera, get one and YOU Will love it :plus1:
 
They only lock up until your cheque has cleared Sir.:whistle::D:D

"Seriously though neither me or any of the guys that work for us have ever experienced that"

George.

Only lockups I've heard of come when doing heavy videoing with the older style batteries. Very much a testers phenomenon. Our Atlantic cousins tested a new T2 almost to destruction to find it. Normal shooting, even on continuous, with old or new batteries cause no problems.
Hasn't been mentioned for some time so the problem cannot occur very often.
I wouldn't worry about it.

Hi Trevor, I read about the lock ups on the Fuji X forum, so I asked them about it, plus I Googled it. It turns out that some members of that forum really do push their system even when the buffer was full, and also Lear cards. I have not and will not push my X-T2 like that, I have a Red button on mine and today rattled off about 70 and it was FINE. Another reason I heard was Uncompressed/Compressed Raf file. It did not stop me getting the X-T2 as it was a case of nothing is going to stop me from getting this great X series camera, get one and YOU Will love it :plus1:

Thanks chaps. Now deep in thought...
 
That's a great shot, timed perfectly

This is gorgeous! It's right out of a dream, very artistic, great sense of melancholy but calm about it.

Graham, I'm speechless.....!!!!

Regards;
Peter

"Cracking" Fujoto Sir, well seen, well caught, and well presented.(y)

George.

Now that is just one hell of a fantastic shot imo :)

Thanks everyone appreciate you all taking the time to comment, it was rather a rather lucky shot.
 
Thanks everyone appreciate you all taking the time to comment, it was rather a rather lucky shot.

Don't you mean you studied the birds for weeks, staked out the location for days, endured every kind of weather just for one frame...
 
Hi All - am interested in the 80mm macro and was just wondering what the addition of a 1.4tc might do to the magnification and working distance (on its own the 80mm will give 1:1 at 25cm I believe).

Anybody know or care to speculate - ie do you still get 1:1 but at a greater working distance? Or maybe more magnification but still at 25cm? Not sure how it might work...

Cheers :)
 
Popped by Broadchurch to see if they needed a hand, what with all the murders and stuff, but seems like they've got it all under control...

v2


https://500px.com/photo/227509709/west-bay-by-ash-smith
 
Hi All - am interested in the 80mm macro and was just wondering what the addition of a 1.4tc might do to the magnification and working distance (on its own the 80mm will give 1:1 at 25cm I believe).

Anybody know or care to speculate - ie do you still get 1:1 but at a greater working distance? Or maybe more magnification but still at 25cm? Not sure how it might work...

Cheers :)


Both! :)

Teleconverters
Teleconverters (TCs) also fit in between the camera and lens. They are special lenses that multiply the focal length of the lens. They have an interesting effect on a macro lens. For example, consider a 2xTC. It would enable a macro lens that does 1x magnification the ability to do 2x at the same working distance or 1x at twice the working distance. An advantage is that you retain infinity focus. Some folks argue a disadvantage of TCs is that they degrade the image. While I tend to agree with this argument in other areas of photography, it seems to be much less of a problem with macro photography. Perhaps this is because macro lenses are designed to be sharp throughout the lens rather than just in the middle.

Taken from here: http://www.mplonsky.com/photo/Macro-telecon.htm
 
Both! :)

Teleconverters
Teleconverters (TCs) also fit in between the camera and lens. They are special lenses that multiply the focal length of the lens. They have an interesting effect on a macro lens. For example, consider a 2xTC. It would enable a macro lens that does 1x magnification the ability to do 2x at the same working distance or 1x at twice the working distance. An advantage is that you retain infinity focus. Some folks argue a disadvantage of TCs is that they degrade the image. While I tend to agree with this argument in other areas of photography, it seems to be much less of a problem with macro photography. Perhaps this is because macro lenses are designed to be sharp throughout the lens rather than just in the middle.

Taken from here: http://www.mplonsky.com/photo/Macro-telecon.htm

Excellent - thanks Keith, sounds like a bit of a no brainer :)
 
I'm sure it will be an excellent lens, almost all the Fuji ones are, but at that price I really don't see it selling well.

Speaking of not selling well, I'll be pulling the 20 from sale tonight if no more interest
 
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