The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

@Diamonddec

Thank you. That makes me feel better. I like to think a shot like this took months of planning and entire memory cards full of trial and error shots that ended up in the reject pile before nailing this one. Helps feed the delusion that with enough time on my hands I could do that no problem!

Seriously it’s a great shot. I just love the lighting and subtlety to the whole thing. Fantastic work.
 
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yamahatdm900 said:
Walltown Craggs. after spending a nice but very cold day exploring some of Hardrians Wall I was hoping for some low angle sunlight to cats some lovely shadows but it never quite works out that way, at least I got a interesting cloud.

Walltown by Graham Norton, on Flickr

Fuji X-T2 & 16-55
Click to expand...
Shame it didn't work out... Nice composition though!
 
gad-westy said:
@Diamonddec

Thank you. That makes me feel better. I like to think a shot like this took months of planning and entire memory cards full of trial and error shots that ended up in the reject pile before nailing this one. Helps feed the delusion that with enough time on my hands I could do that no problem!

Seriously it’s a great shot. I just love the lighting and subtlety to the whole thing. Fantastic work.
Click to expand...

Thanks. To be fair, I had done that lighting set up a couple of times before and so only took a couple of minutes to set up. It's just a case of placing your 2 lights where you want them. It's far easier using studio lights as you have the modelling lights to see where the light is going. I'm a novice in this area too and a lot of it is still trial and error. I took about 10 shots in that set, with the rest of him looking at the camera. I felt that him looking away from the camera worked best in this instance.
 
Tom Green said:
Thanks Steve, you’ve done a good job here but it does present a look that I often see in Fuji files, a look that I’m not overly fond of for landscapes!
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You can have a look at these, as they are not the usual "Fuji" output...Across the Lake.jpg Reflection.jpg

Otherwise, as mentioned before, you'll never be happy with the Fuji colours, so best you look elsewhere.
 
Right. I am getting totally peed off with this bloody Fuji.
I managed to do the upgarde of the whatever it was - only it isn't, it is a total downgrade. Now my computer won't recognise either the card in the card reader, or the camera plugged direct - so now I cannot download ANY pictures from the camera whatsoever. I have a feeling it will be given a float test very soon, either that or a flying lesson.....I am beginning to hate the bloody thing.

Anyone got any ideas as to why this should have happened NO it isn't RAW, it is just the same jpegs because I cannot deal with Fuji RAW and I am not upgrading my comuter so I can either, I am not made of money, having not earned a penny since June and no likelihood of any work this side of April and not a penny from the insurance yet either. Why would the upgrade make my pictures invisible suddenly?
 
@Lensflare

What have you actually done to it, I've upgraded both my XT-2's and all my lenses without problems.

If you want to nip up to Manchester I'll go over it all with you. I have Windows and Mac machines we could test it on. As for RAW files try Faststone image viewer.
 
Lensflare said:
Right. I am getting totally peed off with this bloody Fuji.
I managed to do the upgarde of the whatever it was - only it isn't, it is a total downgrade. Now my computer won't recognise either the card in the card reader, or the camera plugged direct - so now I cannot download ANY pictures from the camera whatsoever. I have a feeling it will be given a float test very soon, either that or a flying lesson.....I am beginning to hate the bloody thing.

Anyone got any ideas as to why this should have happened NO it isn't RAW, it is just the same jpegs because I cannot deal with Fuji RAW and I am not upgrading my comuter so I can either, I am not made of money, having not earned a penny since June and no likelihood of any work this side of April and not a penny from the insurance yet either. Why would the upgrade make my pictures invisible suddenly?
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Switch the camera on whilst holding down the back/exit button and make a note of the body firmware issue installed
Publish it here and then we can at least have a starting point

My initial feeling is that you will need to reinstall the new firmware as per the instructions given by various people on this thread.
 
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I love this camera! The XT2 is So much more intuitive and ergonomic than my old 6D. To watch the exposure triangle working in front of your eyes.. the EVF, the IQ. The low light capabilities. Here's a couple of grabs, the first being my wife taken last night. Lit only by her iPad. the second my daughter, lit by natural light and a soft box. I applied a vignette purely as the background is a bit distracting

2017-12-03 18.45.34-2 by Nick Brennan, on Flickr

DSCF0392 by Nick Brennan, on Flickr
 
NickTB said:
I love this camera! The XT2 is So much more intuitive and ergonomic than my old 6D. To watch the exposure triangle working in front of your eyes.. the EVF, the IQ. The low light capabilities. Here's a couple of grabs, the first being my wife taken last night. Lit only by her iPad. the second my daughter, lit by natural light and a soft box. I applied a vignette purely as the background is a bit distracting

2017-12-03 18.45.34-2 by Nick Brennan, on Flickr

DSCF0392 by Nick Brennan, on Flickr
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Lovely photos Nick.
 
Tom Green said:
Bringing up the issue from the other night again - I have attached the following items to dropbox if anyone fancies having a go with editing them :)

Mainly image 9818 - I have attached the following:

Original RAF
Original DNG
Processed (quickly) - JPG
Processed (quickly) - TIFF

Feel free to process/give tips on sharpening techniques.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/bmzjnxa5nqzjyuo/AADSLgDowB99PqqltjiasCqma?dl=0
Click to expand...

Tom

I'm going to be really brutal here (sorry)

If you are going to get the best out of any camera system, you need to expose the image properly!! I'm not even going to attempt to process image 9818 as the histogram looks like this:-

M1j6jmsh.jpg


The Fuji sensors are very sensitive to blown highlights, only a little can usually be recovered from the highlights, and care needs to be taken when exposing the image not to stray off the right hand side of the histogram. The Fuji Shadow recovery is very good though.

So whilst you may not like the Fuji output, if you are going to do 'test shots' to determine if it might be the system for you, then you have to do them properly, that means

TRIPOD
LOW ISO, not ISO500
EXPOSED PROPERLY

If you want the best landscape results, you need to apply the best settings when taking the image.

It doesn't matter a jot to me whether you use Fuji, Sony or any other camera, but please before you dismiss any system (and they all have their merits), at least give it a fair crack of the whip.
 
I haven't seen the picture but I wouldn't judge anything by a histogram alone, it's the final picture that matters.

Once I used to try and keep everything away from the right hand side but I soon realised that it simply didn't matter if something unimportant making up a fraction of the image was showing as being blown.

And a thought on evaluating kit... if you shoot at low ISO with a tripod then that's how to test it but I'd guess most people shoot at different ISO's tripod and not so my test would be to include both normal for me shooting and test shots at the extremes and I'd also include shadow and highlight recovery.

Tom, good luck choosing.
 
woof woof said:
I haven't seen the picture but I wouldn't judge anything by a histogram alone, it's the final picture that matters.

Once I used to try and keep everything away from the right hand side but I soon realised that it simply didn't matter if something unimportant making up a fraction of the image was showing as being blown.

And a thought on evaluating kit... if you shoot at low ISO with a tripod then that's how to test it but I'd guess most people shoot at different ISO's tripod and not so my test would be to include both normal for me shooting and test shots at the extremes and I'd also include shadow and highlight recovery.

Tom, good luck choosing.
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Alan, its a landscape shot, all of the shots Tom put in the dropbox exhibit the same blown skies. I don't disagree that you should test on and off tripod, but if you read back through the thread Tom's main issue is with landscape shots, and for the best quality low ISO, tripod mounted, remote release is fairly universally recommended.

As I said the Fuji is poor at recovering highlights but good in shadows (in relation to the presented histogram), I think this is mainly due to the fact that the histogram is in a different place to some other manufacturers, earlier in the year I had an Olympus OMD1 Mk2 on evaluation, and on that you could expose quite happily off the right hand side of the histogram and recovery. In the end I determined that both cameras had the same effectively level of recovery, it was just that with regard to the dynamic range, the Olympus histogram was in the middle and the Fuji one was positioned to the right, once I'd sussed this then both cameras had very similar levels of detail recovery. At first I thought the Olympus had poor Shadow recovery, but that's because I was exposing it like I would with the Fuji.
 
Mr Perceptive said:
[SNIP]

If you are going to get the best out of any camera system, you need to expose the image properly!! I'm not even going to attempt to process image 9818 as the histogram looks like this:-

M1j6jmsh.jpg


The Fuji sensors are very sensitive to blown highlights, only a little can usually be recovered from the highlights, and care needs to be taken when exposing the image not to stray off the right hand side of the histogram. The Fuji Shadow recovery is very good though.
[SNIP]
.
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I did say it was a nightmare...... The moment you try to bring down that sky the noise comes in very quickly.
 
dave.hallett said:
To my way of thinking, it looks weird and artefacted, not least because it's trying to recover detail in a blown-out sky that would be better left alone.
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I know, it's awful, and looking at it again has just confirmed that. Thing is, if you are going to do anything with that image, you need to inject some colour in it, and put some detail in the sky. To be fair, it was a bloody awful day to take such a landscape shot (and expect it to be pleasing). Black & white would probably suite it better.
 
Mr Perceptive said:
Tom

I'm going to be really brutal here (sorry)

If you are going to get the best out of any camera system, you need to expose the image properly!! I'm not even going to attempt to process image 9818 as the histogram looks like this:-

M1j6jmsh.jpg


The Fuji sensors are very sensitive to blown highlights, only a little can usually be recovered from the highlights, and care needs to be taken when exposing the image not to stray off the right hand side of the histogram. The Fuji Shadow recovery is very good though.

So whilst you may not like the Fuji output, if you are going to do 'test shots' to determine if it might be the system for you, then you have to do them properly, that means

TRIPOD
LOW ISO, not ISO500
EXPOSED PROPERLY

If you want the best landscape results, you need to apply the best settings when taking the image.

It doesn't matter a jot to me whether you use Fuji, Sony or any other camera, but please before you dismiss any system (and they all have their merits), at least give it a fair crack of the whip.
Click to expand...

I see where you’re coming from here and do agree with what you are saying but to add some justification:

- I was away this weekend and forgot my tripod, leaving me with a Gorillapod and no ball head (a pain in the a** as I had to stick this on the top of a fence post so less than ideal + weekend is the only time I see the light of day due to work

- my primary aim was to get everything in focus (keeping at f8) and avoid any movement in the trees etc so didn’t want a super slow SS. Could have probably reduced the ISO slightly but not to base. + ISO 500 isn’t exactly high, but I would prefer to be lower.

- I am asking people to edit to extract max detail without the paint/smearing effect in foliage, I understand there are a number of factors that influence this, but in my opinion with that scene, I was more interested in the highlights, sky was an afterthought for this purpose. Had I been taking a landscape with the intention of keeping it, that would have been different.

- I had a girlfriend telling me to hurry up

- Histograms don’t tell the full story
 
Tom Green said:
I see where you’re coming from here and do agree with what you are saying but to add some justification:

- I was away this weekend and forgot my tripod, leaving me with a Gorillapod and no ball head (a pain in the a** as I had to stick this on the top of a fence post so less than ideal + weekend is the only time I see the light of day due to work

- my primary aim was to get everything in focus (keeping at f8) and avoid any movement in the trees etc so didn’t want a super slow SS. Could have probably reduced the ISO slightly but not to base. + ISO 500 isn’t exactly high, but I would prefer to be lower.

- I am asking people to edit to extract max detail without the paint/smearing effect in foliage, I understand there are a number of factors that influence this, but in my opinion with that scene, I was more interested in the highlights, sky was an afterthought for this purpose. Had I been taking a landscape with the intention of keeping it, that would have been different.

- I had a girlfriend telling me to hurry up

- Histograms don’t tell the full story
Click to expand...

Tom, yes your points are valid, but so are mine!!

If you want the best out of any camera system then you have to get both the focus and the exposure right.

And you must also agree that your 'working environment' probably resulted in a grabbed/rushed shot rather than a deliberate test shot.:D

But even taking a crop out of a non-sky area in the image, you have to start reducing the exposure slider in lightroom to start seeing the detail, so the shot is over-exposed (I reckon around a stop on the slider). This will all have a bearing on how much detail/sharpness you can recover/process in the image. And you are starting to limit the dynamic range by shooting at ISO500. Don't compromise the starting image in a 'test'

If you like the handling of the Fuji then find time to try it properly. You've already got it, and switching systems always costs money, so give it a whirl.:)
 
Tom Green said:
Whilst we are on the subject, I saw no issues with this one from Manchester last weekend.

Manchester. by Thomas Green, on Flickr
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I know it`s not a landscape shot, but this proves to me that you can take a damn good shot with the X-T2. So I`d say stick with it and it will click.
 
Dave70D said:
I know it`s not a landscape shot, but this proves to me that you can take a damn good shot with the X-T2. So I`d say stick with it and it will click.
Click to expand...

This is the sort of scenario that I think Fuji cameras excel at, architecture too particularly modern, not great with old stonework though.

Can't understand why a particular camera seems to be better for certain things, complete puzzle to me
 
G.K.Jnr. said:
Just a simple macro/close up Fujigraph taken of an Orb Weaver on a Choysia petal.

X-T1, 105mm Micro Nikkor (D) Lens Plus Full Set Of Ext Tubes, 1/180th @ F11, ISO-200, Modified Ring Flash, Handheld.
Orb Weaver (9)-02410 by G.K.Jnr., on Flickr

:ty: for looking., (y):fuji:

George.
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Great macro George :)
 
Mr Perceptive said:
Tom, yes your points are valid, but so are mine!!

If you want the best out of any camera system then you have to get both the focus and the exposure right.

And you must also agree that your 'working environment' probably resulted in a grabbed/rushed shot rather than a deliberate test shot.:D

But even taking a crop out of a non-sky area in the image, you have to start reducing the exposure slider in lightroom to start seeing the detail, so the shot is over-exposed (I reckon around a stop on the slider). This will all have a bearing on how much detail/sharpness you can recover/process in the image. And you are starting to limit the dynamic range by shooting at ISO500. Don't compromise the starting image in a 'test'

If you like the handling of the Fuji then find time to try it properly. You've already got it, and switching systems always costs money, so give it a whirl.:)
Click to expand...

Yes I do agree on all points you make in your post.

It is tempting and to be fair - the last image @dave.hallett sent to me did have plenty of detail.

Here's an issue I have, basically I ordered a Sony A7II on black Friday as an alternative option and at a good price (£1024 inc body, 28-70mm lens, 32gb Sandisk 90mbs sd card, two year warranty) - its whether I keep trying with the fuji over an extended period or whether I give it up and go for the Sony.
 
Tom Green said:
Yes I do agree on all points you make in your post.

It is tempting and to be fair - the last image @dave.hallett sent to me did have plenty of detail.

Here's an issue I have, basically I ordered a Sony A7II on black Friday as an alternative option and at a good price (£1024 inc body, 28-70mm lens, 32gb Sandisk 90mbs sd card, two year warranty) - its whether I keep trying with the fuji over an extended period or whether I give it up and go for the Sony.
Click to expand...

At the end of the day, it's your choice.... you could run both together and see which one leaves the house more, or you you could see one to buy more/different glass for the keeper.

The Sony will have its faults and annoyances (just like the Fuji does), it's just whichever offers you the least compromise.
 
Tom Green said:
Yes I do agree on all points you make in your post.

It is tempting and to be fair - the last image @dave.hallett sent to me did have plenty of detail.

Here's an issue I have, basically I ordered a Sony A7II on black Friday as an alternative option and at a good price (£1024 inc body, 28-70mm lens, 32gb Sandisk 90mbs sd card, two year warranty) - its whether I keep trying with the fuji over an extended period or whether I give it up and go for the Sony.
Click to expand...

Being honest, I would go for the Sony - sounds like you have had issues with the Fuji since day one and it will always be 'tainted' in your mind. Sounds like a clean break to different kit is a good idea. I have mentioned before that I can't see the issues you mention, but as you do, I think you will always be looking for them which will take some of the enjoyment out of the camera. Good luck with whatever you choose..
 
GaryS70 said:
Being honest, I would go for the Sony - sounds like you have had issues with the Fuji since day one and it will always be 'tainted' in your mind. Sounds like a clean break to different kit is a good idea. I have mentioned before that I can't see the issues you mention, but as you do, I think you will always be looking for them which will take some of the enjoyment out of the camera. Good luck with whatever you choose..
Click to expand...

This is so very true, I too see the issues but thankfully not in the shots I like, it's very much like my M43 days, it produced some great images and the DoF was as expected, but it was no D750 (obviously) but that issue was with me, not the system, but it was a disappointment I just couldn't shake.
 
Tom Green said:
Yes I do agree on all points you make in your post.

It is tempting and to be fair - the last image @dave.hallett sent to me did have plenty of detail.

Here's an issue I have, basically I ordered a Sony A7II on black Friday as an alternative option and at a good price (£1024 inc body, 28-70mm lens, 32gb Sandisk 90mbs sd card, two year warranty) - its whether I keep trying with the fuji over an extended period or whether I give it up and go for the Sony.
Click to expand...

Sony has a well documented problem where it converts everything into a MP3 file, its a hangover from their Walkman heritage
 
Thanks for the viewpoints!

Whilst I'm here, NIK collection looks really cr*p on my MacBook retina screen - pixelated. Is there a way to make it look normal or is it not optimised for retina?
 
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