Fuji X-T1/X-T2/X-T3/X-T10 Owners Thread

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2,501
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Andrew
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The 10-24 is my go to lens for most things that aren't wildlife these days. I even used it for animal portraits at the long end...
I’ve been trying to list priorities, love macro, but getting by on the good close focusing properties of Fuji lenses, plus a Raynox I was kindly given.
Want something longer than the kit 18-55, again seen some excellent close ups with the 55-200, so I think at the moment the 10-24 is second on list behind the 55-200.
I used to have phases with my Nikon D750 for landscape, city/ architecture sometimes taking just my 18-35, and other times the 24-85, so at the moment having a one off phase using the longer equivalent, whilst getting used to the Fuji Camera.
 
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This Xt3 is so much fun to use. Playing with settings today, indoors, showery and breezy outside, so focus bracketed this image, (5 frames, steps-5), converted to RAW in Capture One, no other processing carried out. Focus stacked in Affinity Photo using all 5 frames. Some areas of image a bit soft, so it must be down to settings. The first frame was focussed about 12 o'clock second petal from the top, so should i start at the nearest or farthest point? any comments welcome.

Fuji Rose Bckt affinity stack 1
by Andrew Wright, on Flickr
 
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11,548
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Keith
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This Xt3 is so much fun to use. Playing with settings today, indoors, showery and breezy outside, so focus bracketed this image, (5 frames, steps-5), converted to RAW in Capture One, no other processing carried out. Focus stacked in Affinity Photo using all 5 frames. Some areas of image a bit soft, so it must be down to settings. The first frame was focussed about 12 o'clock second petal from the top, so should i start at the nearest or farthest point? any comments welcome.

Fuji Rose Bckt affinity stack 1
by Andrew Wright, on Flickr

The centre is soft, this is where I'd prefer to see the sharpest area in an image like this. I've tried focus stacking numerous times and just cannot get it right! I end up getting frustrated as there will always be an area OOF or with some weird funkiness going on. Maybe I give in too easily!
 
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Andrew
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The centre is soft, this is where I'd prefer to see the sharpest area in an image like this. I've tried focus stacking numerous times and just cannot get it right! I end up getting frustrated as there will always be an area OOF or with some weird funkiness going on. Maybe I give in too easily!
I agree, I like to see the sharpest in the centre.
I have been watching instructional videos on YouTube, some are good, and a lot not so good.
Some youtube videos the narrators/instructors love their own voices and drone on for the first half of the video about themselves. I much prefer the straight to the point narrator/instructor.
 
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Andrew
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Another problem has come to light. I have camera set to Raw +Fine. but can never find the jpeg images on either card 1 or 2, I always have to download RAF from Card one, however, if I plug card 2 into my iPad, it downloads the jpeg images, but on my MacBook I can't even see card 2 in the reader.
 
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Keith
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Another problem has come to light. I have camera set to Raw +Fine. but can never find the jpeg images on either card 1 or 2, I always have to download RAF from Card one, however, if I plug card 2 into my iPad, it downloads the jpeg images, but on my MacBook I can't even see card 2 in the reader.
Thst's odd, I would have suggested you get the second slot checked out to see if it has issues, but then you say the Jpegs are actually there. I shoot RAW+Jpeg to both cards, the only reason I even shoot Jpeg is to get more zoom on previews on camera. I delete them every time I load the card on to the PC, I only ever process RAW. Occasionally I'll use a Jpeg if I really like it SOOC but if I'm going to process at all, may as well use the RAW
 
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1,383
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Allan
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out and about today in Glencoe, and tried to keep out the rain.The only advantage with this down pour is that the rivers are swollen, and big waterfalls.Wish i had a way of keeping the rain of my lens.Will have to invest in a big umbrella.
Taken with XT3 and 10-24mm
water2.jpg w3.jpg
 
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1,134
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Darrin
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Really cant decide between the 16 or 10-24, looking to use it for land and seascapes, general national trust duties in houses and gardens etc.
Is the 16 really wide enough to get those dramatic scenes, even with the close focusing allowing large foreground interest....just cant decide....
 
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1,383
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Allan
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Really cant decide between the 16 or 10-24, looking to use it for land and seascapes, general national trust duties in houses and gardens etc.
Is the 16 really wide enough to get those dramatic scenes, even with the close focusing allowing large foreground interest....just cant decide....
My 10-24mm is my most used lens, you would be amazed how often you would use the lower end of it.
 
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David
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Really cant decide between the 16 or 10-24, looking to use it for land and seascapes, general national trust duties in houses and gardens etc.
Is the 16 really wide enough to get those dramatic scenes, even with the close focusing allowing large foreground interest....just cant decide....
For land and seascapes you can always do a two shot pano with the 16mm if you can’t get it all in on one shot, it also has a much wider aperture for inside those dimly lit NT houses.

But if you want the flexibility of the zoom then that will swing the balance.

It’s the choose between a great lens and an exceptional one ;)
 
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Brian
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Really cant decide between the 16 or 10-24, looking to use it for land and seascapes, general national trust duties in houses and gardens etc.
Is the 16 really wide enough to get those dramatic scenes, even with the close focusing allowing large foreground interest....just cant decide....
I have both. If I had to pick one it would be the 10-24 every time.
 
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Steve
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It’s the choose between a great lens and an exceptional one ;)
Now there's a cracking statement. Since I let my 16 go ( to Nick TB) I have missed it. The 10-24 does a great job, but you can't get the close focus of the 16, and certainly not the narrow DoF. I didn't realise how much I used it at the car shows for the club I'm a member of.

It needs replacing, and I think it may happen sooner than a T3 body comes my way...
 
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Mark
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river long expo.jpg

This was my first time trying a river long exposure and I think it turned out pretty good! Really cool how the smoothing of the river adds some dynamics to the Image.

This was taken on my trip to Norway near, Øystese, Hardanger. We were staying in a cabin overlooking lake Fitjadalsvatnet. This is the river Storelva.

XT-2 + 16mm + Nisi cpl + Nisi 6 stop ND filter
 
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Focus stack, of 9 images, taken with 18-55mm set to 37.5mm, through Raynox 250. ISO 160, 1/60 . Converted to jpeg in Capture One, with only very minimal adjustment to exposure.
stacked using Affinity Photo, and cropped very slightly to cut down on vignetting from the Raynox.

Rose affinity photo stack 030619
by Andrew Wright, on Flickr
 
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5,645
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Steve
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In my quest to find something different to adorn the walls of the new place, I tried these today. Do they work?

T2, XF60 with 11mm tube.

Leaf
by Steve Jelly, on Flickr

Thorns
by Steve Jelly, on Flickr

The birds were rather quiet today so I had to find something else to do.... A bit like the photography show on the TV, I think the idea was sound, but execution could have been better...
 
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5,636
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Paul
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In my quest to find something different to adorn the walls of the new place, I tried these today. Do they work?

T2, XF60 with 11mm tube.

Leaf
by Steve Jelly, on Flickr

Thorns
by Steve Jelly, on Flickr

The birds were rather quiet today so I had to find something else to do.... A bit like the photography show on the TV, I think the idea was sound, but execution could have been better...
I like the idea, Steve. Do you have anything with berries growing? A spot of colour could be good (or not ;))
 
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5,636
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Paul
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Focus stack, of 9 images, taken with 18-55mm set to 37.5mm, through Raynox 250. ISO 160, 1/60 . Converted to jpeg in Capture One, with only very minimal adjustment to exposure.
stacked using Affinity Photo, and cropped very slightly to cut down on vignetting from the Raynox.

Rose affinity photo stack 030619
by Andrew Wright, on Flickr
You got a little halo on the lhs about a third of the way up the petal (It happens to me a lot, mate). Otherwise is a good go (y)
 
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2,501
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Andrew
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You got a little halo on the lhs about a third of the way up the petal (It happens to me a lot, mate). Otherwise is a good go (y)
I find Affinity does this sometimes, I had a trial of Helicon Focus, and that was better.
Gardeners assistant on this forum has written in depth about the halo problem. I find it worse if you only take a few frames of a subject. This one took me a bit by surprise as it was a lot of frames for the size of the frame.
 
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Paul
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I find Affinity does this sometimes, I had a trial of Helicon Focus, and that was better.
Gardeners assistant on this forum has written in depth about the halo problem. I find it worse if you only take a few frames of a subject. This one took me a bit by surprise as it was a lot of frames for the size of the frame.
I've had it with 30 odd frames in PS, and almost perfect with just a few. Maybe it's the subject plus dof ... I dunno :)
 
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Well, there'll be some blackberries soon!!

The wife suggested "something green" to go with the colours in the kitchen, but agree, some berries would set it off.
You could hang some kitchen decoration plastic berries on the bush, :):)(y)
 
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Andy
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Did I hear someone say someone’s got fruit in their bush...... shocking :oops: :$;)....... not frozen I hope...
 
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1,255
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Dave
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Really cant decide between the 16 or 10-24, looking to use it for land and seascapes, general national trust duties in houses and gardens etc.
Is the 16 really wide enough to get those dramatic scenes, even with the close focusing allowing large foreground interest....just cant decide....
Since you mention seascapes, the killer feature of the 10-24 for me is not having to change lenses on the beach while the wind throws sand, salt spray and heaven knows what else through the air. I don't think resolving power is likely to be an issue unless you print very large and are very interested in very small details :). If however you need shallow depth of field, that's a good argument for the 16. Horses for courses...
 
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