The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

I have only tried the 60mm and it is really awful in manual focus which for me is not acceptable for a macro lens.

@dibbly dobbler And its very pedestrian in auto-focus, you have to send it a postcard and when it receives it it will focus - sharp though!!

The 80mm has OIS as well which may or may not be a consideration.
 
Thanks Gents. Been watching few videos! Current thinking:

1. Fuji 80mm - just too expensive I think for a lens I would use purely for macro. Also I think the working distance is not that great?
2. Fuji 60mm - point noted about poor manual focus, as this is what I would use most often
3. Samyang 100mm - hmm, tempting. Used to use a Canon 100mm and loved it (no IS and used it on manual focus so no real difference).
 
Both great shots @dibbly dobbler, really show off the colours well.
My preference is the first of the two without the reeds in the foreground, but that's purely a personal preference.
Two "Excellent" Fujigraphs Sir, both well composed with beautiful colours and some lovely reflections.(y)

George.

Thanks Gents :)
 
Football with FujiFilm - remote camera 1 by David Young, on Flickr

First goal pic I've got with the Fuji as a remote behind the goal camera - shot with Samyang 12mm lens at f5.6 and shutter speed of 1/640th.

Camera triggered with Pocketwizard Plus X triggers - one on X-T2 and one on my Canon 1dx - this is cropped in a fair bit but plenty big enough file size to print in a newspaper or magazine.

Match is Dundee United v Falkirk in the Championship (second tier of Scottish football) - goalscorer is Thomas Mikkelsen.

Loving the wee Fuji for this purpose - not quite the toy I envisaged when I bought it
 
A couple more from my Italy trip

1. Upper Podalla - a grab shot taken leaning precariously out of my daughter's bedroom window as the clouds rolled down the valley
Upper Podalla by Ian, on Flickr

2. St Ilario - a recon shot at a place I want to go back to over summer. No decent light so I've processed the heck out of this to give it some life, but I think this composition will give something nice when the weather is brighter
St Ilario by Ian, on Flickr

3. And a B&W version of a local tree
Twisted by Ian, on Flickr
 
A couple more from my Italy trip

1. Upper Podalla - a grab shot taken leaning precariously out of my daughter's bedroom window as the clouds rolled down the valley
Upper Podalla by Ian, on Flickr

2. St Ilario - a recon shot at a place I want to go back to over summer. No decent light so I've processed the heck out of this to give it some life, but I think this composition will give something nice when the weather is brighter
St Ilario by Ian, on Flickr

3. And a B&W version of a local tree
Twisted by Ian, on Flickr


Lovely set of Fujigraphs Sir, liking all of these very much.(y)

George.
 
A couple more from my Italy trip

1. Upper Podalla - a grab shot taken leaning precariously out of my daughter's bedroom window as the clouds rolled down the valley
Upper Podalla by Ian, on Flickr

2. St Ilario - a recon shot at a place I want to go back to over summer. No decent light so I've processed the heck out of this to give it some life, but I think this composition will give something nice when the weather is brighter
St Ilario by Ian, on Flickr

3. And a B&W version of a local tree
Twisted by Ian, on Flickr

Cracking set of images Ian (y)
 
I know there's a few excellent landscape photographers on this thread so I thought I'd ask here instead of over at the landscape section.

I have recently started thinking about landscape photography having always been an admirer. I took some shots the other day using bracketing and quite liked them when they were merged and thought that the only thing really that was missing was movement in the water and possibly the clouds. I used nothing bar my xt2 and 16mm lens so I'm guessing that a polariser and or nd filter would be extremely handy for this type of photographer. Since I probably don't want to dive straight into hundreds of pounds worth of gear like Lee filters I was thinking is there a good circular version of both that you would recommend or should I just bite the bullet and get the square filter set? If so which should I buy first like hard/soft graduated filters and what should be my first strength nd filter?

I know this is probably an impossible question for you to answer and if it helps I intend to shoot mainly seascapes and lochs.
 
I know there's a few excellent landscape photographers on this thread so I thought I'd ask here instead of over at the landscape section.

I have recently started thinking about landscape photography having always been an admirer. I took some shots the other day using bracketing and quite liked them when they were merged and thought that the only thing really that was missing was movement in the water and possibly the clouds. I used nothing bar my xt2 and 16mm lens so I'm guessing that a polariser and or nd filter would be extremely handy for this type of photographer. Since I probably don't want to dive straight into hundreds of pounds worth of gear like Lee filters I was thinking is there a good circular version of both that you would recommend or should I just bite the bullet and get the square filter set? If so which should I buy first like hard/soft graduated filters and what should be my first strength nd filter?

I know this is probably an impossible question for you to answer and if it helps I intend to shoot mainly seascapes and lochs.
It isn't a silly question at all. The square filters are convenient to use, but can be bulky to store and carry around not to mention the price.

I have acquired over the last few years two screw in filters, a ten stop ND filter and a circular polariser. Both are Formatt-Hitech Firecrest and fantastic quality. I paid probably half rrp for each as one was on sale and the other bought used and have never really felt the need to buy a filter set to significantly up my landscape game so to speak, particularly as grads etc can be applied in LR so easily.

My advice? Get a polariser and ND filter (perhaps a six stopper to begin? The ten can be too long sometimes, particularly at sunrise or sunset when there's less light anyway) in the biggest thread size you need to cover your largest lens IYSWIM, then step up rings to fit this to your smaller lenses.

The step up rings are a couple of quid each and if you put a wanted in the classifieds I'll bet you'll get a decent couple of filters for a fraction of the new cost.

Happy hunting :)
 
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I don't use grads. But a polariser has many uses and an ND filter or two is very useful. I take Ian's approach but if you can find brass stepup rings at a reasonable price, they are easier to use and less likely to bind. Some cheap ND filters introduce heavy colour casts but mine was inexpensive and is easy to correct if you shoot RAW. I think it's a Camdiox. The ability to control shutter speed is particularly important for shots of the sea when every choice gets you a different picture. You'll want to vary it a lot!
 
It isn't a silly question at all. The square filters are convenient to use, but can be bulky to store and carry around not to mention the price.

I have acquired over the last few years two screw in filters, a ten stop ND filter and a circular polariser. Both are Formatt-Hitech Firecrest and fantastic quality. I paid probably half rrp for each as one was on sale and the other bought used and have never really felt the need to buy a filter set to significantly up my landscape game so to speak, particularly as grads etc can be applied in LR so easily.

My advice? Get a polariser and ND filter (perhaps a six stopper to begin? The ten can be too long sometimes, particularly at sunrise or sunset when there's less light anyway) in the biggest thread size you need to cover your largest lens IYSWIM, then step up rings to fit this to your smaller lenses.

The step up rings are a couple of quid each and if you put a wanted in the classifieds I'll bet you'll get a decent couple of filters for a fraction of the new cost.

Happy hunting :)
There's actually a firecrest 10stop 67mm filter in the classifieds now for £50. That's the same size as my 16mm and larger than my 56 but I keep thinking of getting a 16-55 and that wouldn't work. Decisions decisions.
 
There's actually a firecrest 10stop 67mm filter in the classifieds now for £50. That's the same size as my 16mm and larger than my 56 but I keep thinking of getting a 16-55 and that wouldn't work. Decisions decisions.
I'm in the same boat. Have a 72mm for my 10-24mm but even that wouldn't work on the 16-55mm.

Way I see it, you would probably sell it on for the same as you buy it for if you did.
 
I'm in the same boat. Have a 72mm for my 10-24mm but even that wouldn't work on the 16-55mm.

Way I see it, you would probably sell it on for the same as you buy it for if you did.
That's what I was thinking. No point not buying something I need in case I buy another lens. It's the 10 stop that's worrying me although I tend to shoot a lot in the morning or afternoon and convert it to black and white so should have plenty of light then.
 
That's what I was thinking. No point not buying something I need in case I buy another lens. It's the 10 stop that's worrying me although I tend to shoot a lot in the morning or afternoon and convert it to black and white so should have plenty of light then.
10 stop should be fine then. I often find in bright daylight I can still let the camera choose the shutter speed as it's rarely above 30 seconds! No calculations required [emoji4]

If I need to shorten the exposure time I can always bump the ISO a touch or select a slightly wider aperture.
 
I know there's a few excellent landscape photographers on this thread so I thought I'd ask here instead of over at the landscape section.

I have recently started thinking about landscape photography having always been an admirer. I took some shots the other day using bracketing and quite liked them when they were merged and thought that the only thing really that was missing was movement in the water and possibly the clouds. I used nothing bar my xt2 and 16mm lens so I'm guessing that a polariser and or nd filter would be extremely handy for this type of photographer. Since I probably don't want to dive straight into hundreds of pounds worth of gear like Lee filters I was thinking is there a good circular version of both that you would recommend or should I just bite the bullet and get the square filter set? If so which should I buy first like hard/soft graduated filters and what should be my first strength nd filter?

I know this is probably an impossible question for you to answer and if it helps I intend to shoot mainly seascapes and lochs.
Sound advice already been given, I've found 3 stp nd filter to be very useful when water is involved. I stull got all my Lee 100mm filters from my Nikon days but hardly use the grads any more and they are a pain to carry about. Been thinking about getting rid and go back to circular filters.
 
I'm in the same boat. Have a 72mm for my 10-24mm but even that wouldn't work on the 16-55mm.

Way I see it, you would probably sell it on for the same as you buy it for if you did.

That's where a set of square filters come in handy... You just need the ring for your lens....

I wouldn't be without my set of Lee filters now.
 
That's where a set of square filters come in handy... You just need the ring for your lens....

I wouldn't be without my set of Lee filters now.
Much like a screw in and step up rings you mean? [emoji6]

As I suggested, buying the biggest filter you need and step up rings will be a fraction of the cost of a set of quality square filters. The alternative is buying cheap square filters such as Cokin, but if much prefer screw ins over these.

I don't see the logic in going for huge filters for a lens you don't even own. I'd need to be damn sure I'm getting it to warrant that sort of outlay in advance.
 
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I bought the Lee kit when I had a spare bit of cash when I still had my Canon set up; then added the Big Stopper. Worth every penny IMO, and I can fit it to my 10-24 (just) 16 & 35mm lenses.
 
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