- Messages
- 41,843
- Name
- 'Gramps'
- Edit My Images
- No
Last edited:
Composition and the bird in its natural habitat work for me ,if it was mine I would have a go at removing those small dots of water or whatever they are Rodger ,not a problem though as it don't spoil the image to much ...just my opinion
A good clean image Gramps,the only problem with a good image is that the slightest thing stands out like a sore thumb nothing that a one degree shift won`t cure though
Thanks Rich, I can see a couple of points which would appear to confirm your observation (background foliage, water ripples) but the bird itself looks right to my eye (not saying it is, just that it looks right to me) ... what are you seeing specifically that confirms it for you?
Not so much the grass or subject but the water in the foreground.In fact even 2 degrees makes it look better and the subject believe it or not is not effected by that.
good image Roger, the Heron is still still just a tad too over sharpe(end) for me in the wrong places - what i mean is I would prefer to see the eye sharper than the rest so as to give just a little more of a focus point ... but just my opinion as generally I prefer to see everything in the bird coming back from the eye...... if you see what I mean
I understand what you mean Bill and if the Heron had been closer I might have achieved that but the contrast on the more heavily textured back feather was always going to be greater than the lighter and finer feather around its face and neck. Having said that, I didn't get the focus point to stay completely on its head but as it was at 9-point I'm not sure if it would have been better even if I did...
View attachment 45588
Personally I like the way the texture shows on the grey feathers ... after all it does that naturally on the bird itself
That is one of my problems which I have yet to completely solve - I use spot focus - I have it on the head and when I press the shutter it can "bounce" off target
I notice that a lot with a more relaxed grip, less so if I remember to exert some pressure down on the lens against the gimbal ... I sort of assumed it was me, and it may well be, but I do wonder if there is some movement caused by the mirror slap that was not present with my 'pro' bodies (D3/D3S/D4/D4S).
I like the photos Gramps, the composition really works for me.
Onto camera movement, I have been finding this also with my D750, I thought it was me due to my arm, hand & shoulder problems. It was very prominent with me using the 24-120mm f4 lens which I have now sold as a tad too heavy, but when using it, it felt as if I was using a shot gun, with the kick of the camera / lens.