Hoods, caps and filters

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HowardB

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I received my 24-105L this morning.

I've fitted the hood to the lens and then tried to fit the cap (with hood in place) and it was a bit of a struggle to make sure i didnt touch the front glass, either with my fingers or with the cap. Obviously a filter on the front would remove any worry about damaging the glass.

As the lens was bought as a walkaround, there may be times when its without the cap and other times when i want to replace the cap. I plan on keeping the hood on as often as possible. With this in mind, do i have to develop a technique to fit/remove the lens cap with the hood in place, or should i remove the hood when i am fitting the lens cap?

Obviously all this can be made redundant by the fitting of a filter, however, I've read so many pro/con threads about filters, especially on L glass, that I'm confused! Is a filter on a L glass going to hamper the expensive optics?

And finally, looking at Hoya filters there are PRO1 Digital Filters which have a UV and a protector filter available. I can't find much with regard to the protector so was wondering if anybody had experience of these or do you just fit UV filters?

Thanks.
 
You want to try and get some pinch caps, Tamron, Nikon make them - not sure if anyone else does.
 
I have the same on my 70-300, it is impossible for me with my fat fingers to replace the cap with the hood on so either if i am using it regularly while walking about or out for the day i tend to leave the cap off as the hood offers some protection, then if i stop to have lunch or put camera down i just quickly twist the hood off and replace the cap, not really that much hassle to be honest.
 
Can you not fit the hood on the lens reversed? Makes fitting the cap much easier usually. Only when the cap's fitted of course. :D
 
CT: yes the lens hood is reversible, so i could reverse it and then fit the cap. Lot of faffing around though.

I've dug a bit further on the Hoya Filters

PROTECTOR
Protect your valued lenses
This is the ultimate in clear filters. It will not affect the color balance or performance of your lenses in the slightest. However, constant use will protect your valued lenses from expensive front element damage which could be caused by dirt, knocks or scratches


UV
A multi-purpose fine-weather filter
Absorbs the ultraviolet rays which often makes outdoor photographs hazy and indistinct. A multi-purpose, fine-weather filter for color as well as black and white films. Also serves as a permanent lens protector.


Might get a Protector filter and give it a try.
 
I'm not a lover of sticking filters in front of good glass, but that's just me. The hood stops a lot of the danger of accidental knocks to the front element. In inclement weather it's probably a good idea though if the lens isn't weather sealed.
 
My original Minolta D7 had the lens cap release internally, which worked very well and I assume was made just for this purpose. Unfortunately I lost it!!
Might these type be available as aftermarket supplies?
 
Hama make 'pinch' filters but AFAIK not in the larger diameters, and they're a bit tacky compared with the Nikon and Tamron ones. Available from 7dayshop.

Filters can degrade the image and induce flare, but I use UV filters anyway as added protection. The info on the Canon 17-40L says that a filter should be fitted to complete the weatherproofing. The Hoya Pro1 filters are hugely expensive (best to buy from HK) but have better coatings and are also thinner (the metal as well as the glass), so they're less likely to cause vignetting on WA lenses.

Just my 2p after a long absence. :D
 
Dormant but still kicking! :D
 
I never use a filter for protection, for me shooting through them is akin to shooting through a window. They definitely can effect performance

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/columns/sm-feb-05.shtml

I do a fair amount of street shooting and i use my gear crowded bars and i always leave the lens hoods on. It takes seconds to reverse the lens hood and i don't normally do that until i want the lens cap on but that's when the camera is heading back to my bag
 
Thanks for all the replies.

I spent Friday and Saturday shooting with the 24-105L and just the hood. I was very impressed, so much so im wondering if i should get a hood for my 10-22mm lens. Though i think the 10-22mm would probably benefit from a quality circular polariser?
 
Well you'd benefit from both, but i use a filter when it's called for and not protection.

But the hoods always stay on
 
Howard: The hood for the Canon 10-22 is the EW-83E. This comes 'free' with the 17-40L, although it is really too big for that lens! You may find one on eBay or whatever instead of paying Canon's silly price.

Re polarisers, I'm not 100% sure about using these with super-wide lenses. Apart from the risk of vignetting due to the thickness of the filter, the field of view is so great and the polarising effect varies across the frame. May be worth a try though.

Unfortunately you can't use the standard Cokin P filter holder with the 10-22 because the edges of the holder are visible. You can turn it through 90 degrees but that's no good for graduated filters. :(
 
A lot of the wide angle pics I've taken recently have had lakes in the image. I get reflections (land and/or cloud) in the water and was thinking that the circular polarizer (CP) would remove these - that was my only reason for using this filter. I believe some of the Hoya and B&W are low profile filters and shouldn't cause vignetting?

I was really hoping that the lens hood with the 24-105L would work with the 10-22mm, but it doesn't.

Now i have another 77mm lens, if i were taking pictures of cars at concours events, would the CP filter reduce the reflection/glare from the bodywork and glass?

If the CP filters werent so expensive, Id happily buy one and give it a try!
 
7dayshop do a 77mm CP for £17.99. Linky.

I have one of these, but believe it or not I've not tried it before with the 10-22. :eek: Well I have now, and there is a very slight amount of vignetting at the extreme corners, but not as much as I'd thought, and it would be easy to clone or crop away if you wanted. (You have to take the UV filter off first of course, if you use one. :) )

The Hama filters probably aren't the best, but they seem OK. AFAIK they're not coated, so flare cold be a problem unless the sun was behind you.
 
HowardB said:
Now i have another 77mm lens, if i were taking pictures of cars at concours events, would the CP filter reduce the reflection/glare from the bodywork and glass?
Click to expand...

Yes. Polarisers reduce reflected glare from all but metallic surfaces, car bodies not being a problem because they're painted. :)
 
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