iPHONE images... post your iPhone/Mobile pics HERE... :-)

Moving image files (some of them RAW) from iPhone to PC seemed to be an awful hassle, with impossible hoops of Apple protocol to try and jump through, and the bypass strategy of emailing such relatively large files to myself was pretty clunky.

Then I found the app EaseUS MobiMover Free, installed it on the PC, and it became a doddle. I have no vested interest in it, it just worked!

My puzzle is why Apple couldn't have made it as easy as that?
 
It's remarkable what some people manage to turn out using their phones - I suppose they're people with a very good native eye - but to me it's a 'snapshot in good light' device, and I miss the control (eg of aperture) that I find a vital component of composition in the 'real world', and the ability to go deep and dark with the light.
 
Do you go out deliberately with you phone for photography Garry ? I must admit that I also use mine for snap shot style photography of things I see when I'm out and about and focus is a sometimes a problem but I have just discovered that by holding you finger on the screen over the point you want in focus locks the focus and reduces this some what ( on an Android phone that is ). The two things where my phone falls apart are images with a fairly high contrast and the fact it only has the one focal length. The plus side is that the fairly wide angle lens allows me to capture things at a close range that I cannot back off from one thing that springs to mind is canal boat moored on the same side as me and museums where things are tucked in close to each other. I also like the fact that I have a range of formats and allows me to do square format and see exactly what I am including in the frame, some thing my Sony will not allow.I'm never likely to have an expensive phone but the camera is the thing I use most on my phone. Moving the photos from my phone to my PC is a bit of a faff especially as I use Linux on the PC. I will try some of the apps you mentioned. I must also admit that using my phone also makes me feel less of a photographer when around others with serious cameras and you do tend to get treated differently. The reverse of that is you tend not to be noticed where the use of a large more serious looking camera would get you noticed. This is a personnel thing but
I always feel I've achieved more if I get a good result from a basic simple/old device ,I almost expect to get a good result if I've just thrown lads of money at it and this is not just photography. As far as lack of aperture control goes has anyone any examples of processor created out of focus back grounds? I'm not sure of the correct terminology for this and as far as I am aware have never seen any examples. And last but not least in your opinion is it worth getting raw images from the phone or as I've heard there is too much noise because of the small sensor so raw is not worth it !
 
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Yes, Brad. I always have the phone on me but recently I've taken to leaving my Sony A6000 mirrorless camera at home when I go out. I'm pretty sure I'll get around to using it again, and maybe a lot, but right now I'm having too much fun with the phone. I was going out with the Sony with my 50mm f/1.8 lens practically glued to the front. The iPhone XS has two lenses: 26mm and 52mm, so I can get a wider range of street photos, and there's no real noticeable difference in quality between the A6000/50mm and the XS unless you pixel-peep at 100%.

Locking focus in the way you describe is a feature of all of the camera apps I use on the iPhone, but I tend to decide which format (in the sense of pixel ratio) to use until I get home and see the photos on a bigger screen, unless I'm shooting something where I want to process the photos and upload them while on location. And you're right about people's treatment of phone camera users: although it means that some people won't bother stopping if you're right in front of them taking a photo, those same people think your photography isn't important, so you can more easily get street photos, and especially street candids. That's always been the way with phones, though. While you're busy getting and locking focus and exposure, look quizzically up at street signs and people think you're using the Map app.

What you're calling "processor created out of focus back grounds" is part of what's known as computational photography. My iPhone has it. Both of the lenses have wide apertures, so you can get the background out of focus if your subject is close to you and a long way from the background. The only portrait-style photo I can show you as an example, is this one I took of Brexit Man (Steve Bray) outside the Houses of Parliament:

View: https://www.flickr.com/photos/garryknight/48794896706/in/dateposted/


But you can use the same function to get good non-portrait shots, too. Like this one of some leaves in a park:

View: https://www.flickr.com/photos/garryknight/49089965303/in/dateposted/


The function is really aimed at portraits, taken with the phone upright, and it looks out for a face to use as the subject. But you can fool it into accepting other subjects and blurring out the background in an acceptable way. And what's even better is that, since the blur is created by the software, you can change it after you've taken the photo. So, if the blur isn't looking good enough, I can (on the phone, or after I've copied it to my iPad) go into Edit mode and change the slider from f/1.4 all the way up to f/16 and use whatever works best.
 
I forgot to answer your question about raw photos. I've tried it on my iPhone and, while the image quality is reasonable, there's so much noise that you might as well let the phone convert it to JPEG in order to save time and get good results. This is the first and only phone I've had that could produce raw photos, so someone else might be able to give you better advice.
 
Yes, Brad. I always have the phone on me but recently I've taken to leaving my Sony A6000 mirrorless camera at home when I go out. I'm pretty sure I'll get around to using it again, and maybe a lot, but right now I'm having too much fun with the phone. I was going out with the Sony with my 50mm f/1.8 lens practically glued to the front. The iPhone XS has two lenses: 26mm and 52mm, so I can get a wider range of street photos, and there's no real noticeable difference in quality between the A6000/50mm and the XS unless you pixel-peep at 100%.

Locking focus in the way you describe is a feature of all of the camera apps I use on the iPhone, but I tend to decide which format (in the sense of pixel ratio) to use until I get home and see the photos on a bigger screen, unless I'm shooting something where I want to process the photos and upload them while on location. And you're right about people's treatment of phone camera users: although it means that some people won't bother stopping if you're right in front of them taking a photo, those same people think your photography isn't important, so you can more easily get street photos, and especially street candids. That's always been the way with phones, though. While you're busy getting and locking focus and exposure, look quizzically up at street signs and people think you're using the Map app.

What you're calling "processor created out of focus back grounds" is part of what's known as computational photography. My iPhone has it. Both of the lenses have wide apertures, so you can get the background out of focus if your subject is close to you and a long way from the background. The only portrait-style photo I can show you as an example, is this one I took of Brexit Man (Steve Bray) outside the Houses of Parliament:

View: https://www.flickr.com/photos/garryknight/48794896706/in/dateposted/


But you can use the same function to get good non-portrait shots, too. Like this one of some leaves in a park:

View: https://www.flickr.com/photos/garryknight/49089965303/in/dateposted/


The function is really aimed at portraits, taken with the phone upright, and it looks out for a face to use as the subject. But you can fool it into accepting other subjects and blurring out the background in an acceptable way. And what's even better is that, since the blur is created by the software, you can change it after you've taken the photo. So, if the blur isn't looking good enough, I can (on the phone, or after I've copied it to my iPad) go into Edit mode and change the slider from f/1.4 all the way up to f/16 and use whatever works best.

”Excellent” post once again, and very informative.

George.
 
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I forgot to answer your question about raw photos. I've tried it on my iPhone and, while the image quality is reasonable, there's so much noise that you might as well let the phone convert it to JPEG in order to save time and get good results. This is the first and only phone I've had that could produce raw photos, so someone else might be able to give you better advice.

I’ve had some very good results shooting RAW on my “iPhone 7 plus” and doing the PP work in Affinity.

George.
 
Thanks, George, and thanks for your kind comments. I'll have to give Affinity a try for noise reduction. The only drawback is that I'd either have to do the whole thing in Affinity every time, which isn't as fast as working in Snapseed, or I'd have to save the noise-corrected version and then load it into Snapseed, with a resulting loss in quality.
 
My new pup 14 weeks old now. Photo A direct from the phone b processed in Snapspeed phone app using HDR option which almost looks 3d to my eyes

A
a2.jpg


B
b2.jpg
 
Is that the Garrick theatre in Litchfield Garry ? I've been there multiple times but always in darkness ! I've tried Snapspeed although I've only used it a little it seems fairly easy to use and the few results I have tried have been good, as you pointed out it is also fast. I've also looked into getting the files/photos from my Android phone
to my Linux PC using an app called Airdroid ( there is a Windows version) it allows you to see all files on your phone not just photos and you can transfer both ways, I chose to use Airdroid web on the PC. To use Airdroid you do have to sign up for an account using your email address. I've posted a before and after on image thread where I have used the HDR option to my eye it almost makes the image 3d.
 
Nice little thread, thanks.
I always have my phone in my pocket as most people but when I'm out for the day like I was Sunday in the Alps I do like to take a few with my phone but as that can't compete with the D750 the camera wins every time.
Here's one taken with the phone, Xiaomi T9 Pro.
As the phone is good for photos I don't normally feel the need to pp my photos. IMG_20191117_132724.jpeg
 
Is that the Garrick theatre in Litchfield Garry ?

No, this one's in London.

I've also looked into getting the files/photos from my Android phone to my Linux PC using an app called Airdroid

I've used Airdroid in the dim and distant past. It's OK. But I installed ES File Explorer and set up a direct connection to my PC using SMB, so that I could just copy and paste the files. There are other file managers that let you do the same thing.

Ooops!
I just realised that I posted the Garrick Theatre photo in the wrong thread! This one's supposed to be for discussion. I'll delete it. here.
 
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Has anyone ever tried the cheap add on lenses to alter focal length ? I'm guessing they are really naff
 
I'm guessing they are really naff


You've got it in one.

"I've put a "Raynox" close up lens on my iPhone 7plus before now (held on with a couple of elastic bands on round the mount) and managed to get some pretty reasonable results."

George.
 
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Has anyone ever tried the cheap add on lenses to alter focal length ? I'm guessing they are really naff
Not me personally but a Jumping spider group i`m in on FB and there is a guy has one and his shots are incredible, mostly better than some DSLR shots, But he has said practice makes perfect.
 
Owd and new My favorite tipple. I bet the drinks advertisers never thought of using a bin !

owd.jpg
 
I paid a little over £25 for a set of lenses (can't remember the make) in Jessops and found more or less what I expected to find. Athens 2x tele was OK in the centre but OOF at the edges. The CPL didn't seem to work at all (and yes, I know about sun angles, etc), and even the wide-angle/macro combo was soft. I've seen some acceptable results online from the Moment and Olloclip ranges.
 
White balance ! Today I took the phone out with my super expensive £2.99 tripod on a dog walk in woodland. I have to admit that in the past I have let the camera do it's thing on auto but have generally been disappointed with woodland colours as they never seem to look like what I am seeing, This time I decided to use the phone in Pro mode and tried the various setting I ended up setting exposure to minus 0.5 and the white balance to cloudy this brought the colours out lovely and they looked much nearer to what I was seeing. The conditions were really flat with fog so were pretty poor. Here are a couple of examples. The shots are as they came out of the camera but I have had to reduce the size to post here which has lost some of their quality. The true balance would be some where halfway but in the standard camera app I cannot vary the white balance and just have presets.

In auto mode
1.jpg

In pro with white balance set to cloudy.

2.jpg
 
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Deliberate camera movement in the autumn forest. I tried to set the camera up to give the slowest shutter speed set a two second timer and just rotated it as the shutter was about to fire.
swirl.jpg
 
A bit of drama in the village !

1.jpg
2.jpg

3.jpg
 
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