Nikon D7xxx owners thread

First of all you need a lens with an aperture of 1.8 or faster.

You put the camera on a stable surface (a table for example) and the object to be photographed (something with small text works well) around 50cm in front of it.

You focus using AF with a single centre point on the text and check that this is sharp by using live view and zooming in to 100% or more.

If this is sharp (if not then you use micro adjustment to make it so) then you do the same with the utmost left focal point and check if it is still sharp.
 
Tested 9 in total from 4/5 different batches

One more thing:
How do you know which items belong to the same batch?

(Neighbouring serial numbers?
First X digits of the SNs match?)

Are you sure they are actually from 4-5 totally different batches, and not just one failed batch which was delivered to the distributor and then to the shop in multiple smaller shipments?

I mean no offence, I am only curious about how you define "batch", and how you identify one.
 
Looking at serial number and asking the shop on delivery times (shop goes through many cameras and orders directly from nikon and always newer deliveries have newer serial numbers)
 
Camera back from Nikon workshop and the auto focus seems to have gone the other way now, massively front focussing. Had to set my Nikon 85 1.8g to +20 to get anything sharp... will have to undergo further tests tonight, but not a happy bunny after 2 weeks without a camera :(
 
Camera back from Nikon workshop and the auto focus seems to have gone the other way now, massively front focussing. Had to set my Nikon 85 1.8g to +20 to get anything sharp... will have to undergo further tests tonight, but not a happy bunny after 2 weeks without a camera :(

Have you tried using the default setting, I set mine to minus 20, ok'ed it and it was massively back focusing, set it back to 0 on default and it started to focus the 35mm just fine, yet I was needing around minus 10 AF tune on it before messing with the default setting:thinking:

in your case it might be worth setting it to + 20
 
Hi I cannot get to grips with the D7000 and am wondering what I am doing wrong. I constantly get pictures that have low contrast, too much "grey", not enough deep blacks. I am not sure what I am doing wrong. I've tried altering exposure on same shot but still not getting that sharp clarity.
Anyone any ideas?
Thanks!
 
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Hi I cannot get to grips with the D7000 and am wondering what I am doing wrong. I constantly get pictures that have los contrast, too much "grey", not enough deep blacks. I am not sure what I am doing wrong. I've tried altering exposure on same shot but still not getting that sharp clarity.
Anyone any ideas?
Thanks!

Post up an example or two with exif data then we may be able to tell/diagnose from there.
 
Have you tried using the default setting, I set mine to minus 20, ok'ed it and it was massively back focusing, set it back to 0 on default and it started to focus the 35mm just fine, yet I was needing around minus 10 AF tune on it before messing with the default setting:thinking:

in your case it might be worth setting it to + 20

I'll have a tinker tonight! Just glad to have got it back... although it's not had much use in the last few months, I feel lost without it and have missed quite a few opportunities with it missing :D
 
Hi, OK, my Mac screen is not great either, showing much better clarity than the prints, but I think it is my camera, not the printer.

I'm guessing its something I am doing wrong! I did get some better shots today using flash (SB700).

I played around with some of the outdoor shots in the Apple iphoto editor, the 2 outdoor ones, she was wearing a pale yellow t-shirt, I just increased the contrast on the one called post-contrast.

I am sure it is something basic I am getting wrong!!! But I never had this problem before with my Pentax ME Super or my Nikon D50.......

Thanks!

I am not sure if the EXIF data is shown on flickr but have added all the info to each photo as text too.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/sazzyb/sets/72157633989051779/

Just to add, the first four (outside, no hat) all look too yellow and lack of blacks/ contrast/ depth/ something lol. The one indoors with flash looks OK, although could have a little more contrast/ blacks.

It is tricky as my screen isn't a great match to what the prints will actually look like. I have altered the calibration which helps a bit.
 
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Hi I cannot get to grips with the D7000 and am wondering what I am doing wrong. I constantly get pictures that have low contrast, too much "grey", not enough deep blacks. I am not sure what I am doing wrong. I've tried altering exposure on same shot but still not getting that sharp clarity.
Anyone any ideas?
Thanks!

I've had a look at the shots you have put up and your edited ones look ok to me!:thinking:

Are you shooting jpeg's?
 
I've had a look at the shots you have put up and your edited ones look ok to me!:thinking:

Are you shooting jpeg's?

I've had a look as well, lovely natural colours, just kind of "Low key" if that's the right description.
 
I shoot raw•jpeg. I tend to edit the raw versions but would like to get the picture right "in camera" rather than having to do post-processing. Pre-processing they just don't have that "pop" I am trying to get. The jpeg version looks a bit worse than the raw as far as contrast goes.

Any ideas welcomed!
 
I'll have a tinker tonight! Just glad to have got it back... although it's not had much use in the last few months, I feel lost without it and have missed quite a few opportunities with it missing :D

I'm going to take that previous statement back... :bang:

Absolutely fuming at Nikon. All 3 of my lenses are now massively forward focusing... so much so, that even +20 camera default then +20 on each lens is not enough to send the focus back to the correct point.

Gutted is not the word. After 2 weeks without my camera, looks like I'm going to have to do it all again :bang:

If you send away just the body, does anybody know if Nikon actually test with any of their lenses or just give it a random adjustment and send it back?

Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr :razz:
 
I shoot raw•jpeg. I tend to edit the raw versions but would like to get the picture right "in camera" rather than having to do post-processing. Pre-processing they just don't have that "pop" I am trying to get. The jpeg version looks a bit worse than the raw as far as contrast goes.

Any ideas welcomed!

A lot of people don't get the 'pop' until they've sharpened and fiddled with curves and contrast in PP... don't worry about that :)
 
I shoot raw•jpeg. I tend to edit the raw versions but would like to get the picture right "in camera" rather than having to do post-processing. Pre-processing they just don't have that "pop" I am trying to get. The jpeg version looks a bit worse than the raw as far as contrast goes.

Any ideas welcomed!

Getting it right in camera "jpeg" means that all of the pp that the camera applies needs to be just so,contrast,sharpening etc.

Most of the shots that you see that "POP" are shot in RAW and then thoughtfully edited!(y)
 
I'm going to take that previous statement back... :bang:

Absolutely fuming at Nikon. All 3 of my lenses are now massively forward focusing... so much so, that even +20 camera default then +20 on each lens is not enough to send the focus back to the correct point.

Gutted is not the word. After 2 weeks without my camera, looks like I'm going to have to do it all again :bang:

If you send away just the body, does anybody know if Nikon actually test with any of their lenses or just give it a random adjustment and send it back?

Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr :razz:

Forward focusing, you mean front focusing, if so you will need to make it focus back, which would be - in the camera menu, that little camera at the bottom of the screen is meant to be, well the camera, the focus is meant to be on the 0 on the scale, if you are front focusing all ready that means you are in the plus area with your lenses, so you need to bring the yellow arrow closer the the camera at the bottom to make the front focus come towards the 0.

I know above I said + 20 for the default value, but after setting it, put it back to 0.

Then go ahead and test, if still front focusing do the above.
 
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Anyone upgraded to the d7100 using a sigma 150-500 os hsm?

I can't make my mind up about it on the d7100 I can't tell if it highlights the cr@ppines at 500mm worse than the d7000 due to the camera out resolving the lens on the d7100

I put up a postage stamp on the shed using the camera on a tripod turn OS off this is about 8-10 mtrs say at a guess. It definitely wasn't focusing off like the guys picture of the bank note. (it as just not detailed/sharp I did take some shots exactly same settings on d7000 but hard pushed to really say one was way better than the other(because of the resolution the pic is more zoomed in on the d7100 and I as just using viewnx). I just find in real shooting situations of birds on flash's where you could do really with 800 it just cant resolve the image properly. Kinda like looking at a picture on a bridge camera
 
Forward focusing, you mean front focusing, if so you will need to make it focus back, which would be - in the camera menu, that little camera at the bottom of the screen is meant to be, well the camera, the focus is meant to be on the 0 on the scale, if you are front focusing all ready that means you are in the plus area with your lenses, so you need to bring the yellow arrow closer the the camera at the bottom to make the front focus come towards the 0.

I know above I said + 20 for the default value, but after setting it, put it back to 0.

Then go ahead and test, if still front focusing do the above.

That's not correct surely... if the camera is front focusing you use + and if it's back focusing you use -

Not sure what you're getting at by setting it to an extreme then resetting it to 0? Not sure what that would achieve.
 
Anyone upgraded to the d7100 using a sigma 150-500 os hsm?

I can't make my mind up about it on the d7100 I can't tell if it highlights the cr@ppines at 500mm worse than the d7000 due to the camera out resolving the lens on the d7100

I put up a postage stamp on the shed using the camera on a tripod turn OS off this is about 8-10 mtrs say at a guess. It definitely wasn't focusing off like the guys picture of the bank note. (it as just not detailed/sharp I did take some shots exactly same settings on d7000 but hard pushed to really say one was way better than the other(because of the resolution the pic is more zoomed in on the d7100 and I as just using viewnx). I just find in real shooting situations of birds on flash's where you could do really with 800 it just cant resolve the image properly. Kinda like looking at a picture on a bridge camera

Me :).
I went from the d90 to the d7100 and noticed the difference In sharpness of images. My lens has never been tremendous at 500 even stepped down as much as possible. The pic I posted early of my dog oscar was taken with said lens. I have noticed in processing that the amount of sharpness I have needed to add is a lot lot lower.
On a recent trip to silverstone I did notice that I have a lot less oof images.
 
I must be getting it confused, using the default value for me seemed to make it better when it was set back 0, but I sent back the lens in the end and am waiting on a replacement.
 
I must be getting it confused, using the default value for me seemed to make it better when it was set back 0, but I sent back the lens in the end and am waiting on a replacement.

I don't think you are...I had the same....but for me it was the lens, and partially my technique to blame...When I gave my camera to a pro it was fine every time...That's why I say that D7000 does require a bit of taming, it is unforgiving to bad technique...
 
I must be getting it confused, using the default value for me seemed to make it better when it was set back 0, but I sent back the lens in the end and am waiting on a replacement.

I think you must be... front focusing = you can use the + increments to move the focus back / back focusing = you can use the - increment to bring the focus forward.

Once you hit +/- 20, there is no more tweaking possible.

A value of 0 simply means you're using the camera's default focusing for that lens with no adjustment (y)

Mine are seriously nowhere near focusing far enough back with +20 adjustments on 85mm 1.8g and Tamron 17-50mm 2.8... wish I'd never bothered now, at least when they were back focusing I had enough range to get them there or there abouts :(
 
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I think you must be... front focusing = you can use the + increments to move the focus back / back focusing = you can use the - increment to bring the focus forward.

Once you hit +/- 20, there is no more tweaking possible.

A value of 0 simply means you're using the camera's default focusing for that lens with no adjustment (y)

Mine are seriously nowhere near focusing far enough back with +20 adjustments on 85mm 1.8g and Tamron 17-50mm 2.8... wish I'd never bothered now, at least when they were back focusing I had enough range to get them there or there abouts :(

How is the focus when you use live view? Mine was spot on using liveview and well off using the ovf.
 
I think you must be... front focusing = you can use the + increments to move the focus back / back focusing = you can use the - increment to bring the focus forward.

Once you hit +/- 20, there is no more tweaking possible.

A value of 0 simply means you're using the camera's default focusing for that lens with no adjustment (y)

Mine are seriously nowhere near focusing far enough back with +20 adjustments on 85mm 1.8g and Tamron 17-50mm 2.8... wish I'd never bothered now, at least when they were back focusing I had enough range to get them there or there abouts :(

Nikon need to get there act together, just yesterday I had an email telling me that they are waiting on proof of purchase for my cash back offer claim, yet nearly 2 weeks ago I got the confirmation email saying they had passed on my details to citibank to send my cash back, now I have to wait to Monday and ring them up, not happy at all, and if this new 35mm lens on Monday is not spot on with the D7000 i'll be on the phone again, problem with the last one was it was so random, I couldn't really set an AF tune value and be happy with any of the results.
 
Me :).
I went from the d90 to the d7100 and noticed the difference In sharpness of images. My lens has never been tremendous at 500 even stepped down as much as possible. The pic I posted early of my dog oscar was taken with said lens. I have noticed in processing that the amount of sharpness I have needed to add is a lot lot lower.
On a recent trip to silverstone I did notice that I have a lot less oof images.

Hi thanks fot that. I find its ok at 500 when close to the subject or a big subject like a deer or dog. Goldfinch up a tall tree over yonder not so good LOL. Yesterday I went out with the 300 af 3.4 and a keno tele convertor. There was a kestral out on the reserve flying nearish by. It just would not focus it kept go full to full end of the focus range driving me crazy. Now when I used to use this combo on the d7000 it was lightning fast and much quicker than the 150 500 to lock on.

Now the really strange thing was I took some pictures about 2to3 Meters away of one of those huge dragonfly and its focus was tack sharp with no massive amount of hunting. I'm guessing it was to do with the lack of contrast maybe between a small kestral way up in the sky and the grey clouds.

However if anyones thinking of getting a kenko teleconvertor for the d7100 I'd be wary. I believe there are problems with sigma convertors too?
 
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My new d7000 came frid ,just took a couple of test pics, focus "seems" ok atm
just wondered what kind of actual % are having the focus problems
sounds to be all of them, from the introduction to the present !
 
When I spoke to the guy at Nikon about this back focusing issue he said to send it in. However it would not be going to Nikon but to a repair agent. Something to do with my location. I never bothered.
 
Managed to get some ok pics using a finetune setting of +20 on my Nikon 85mm f1.8 lens yesterday, but even +20 on my Tamrom 17-50mm isn't enough to be sharp :(

Can't believe how much Nikon have over compensated the focus :(
 
Well, my new 35mm came today from Wex and the results are night and day to the one I sent back to curry's.

Nice and sharp and focus looks bang on now to me at least, thankyou Wex:love:
804c541c890583d40d3e05f1e5e57c87.jpg


Oh and the cashback, well Nikon now reckon there is no money in the account they use with Citibank, but they will be topping it up this week and sorting it out.
 
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D7100 for me, is the best crop sensor Nikon ever. I can't really fault it. I have such a high keeper rate and the level of detail is just outstanding.

The weight and size is perfect and I find it such a joy to use. No issues with anything mentioned in these posts.

I'm sure that 1000's of people feel the same, you just don't hear from the happy people as much!

Lenses I use are 16-85 vr, 70-300 vr and 50 1.8g so nothing high end. The 70-300 has been a revelation to me. As long as i dont go to 300, it takes such great images all the way from 70-290mm.

People have never complimented me so much on my work.

So i say to all those worrying about the purchase of a D7100, go for it. There are more good than bad.
 
So D7100's bounce off tarmac really well it seems... 18-105mm lenses on the other hand...

The lens is trashed (aperture petals rattling around inside) but any suggestions as to what to look for in terms of finding any faults on the camera? Other than a slight scratch taking the blacking off next to the shutter release, a scuffed plastic bit around the battery compartment and the battery compartment door flying off (but fitted back no problem), the camera seems fine and appears to work, but slightly concerned there might be something broken I can't see...

Maybe I should do a left focus point check and send it back if its faulty... :p
 
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My D300 has taken a few knock in it's time and still works fine so I wouldn't worry too much as the body on the D7100 is part titanium too, not about to drop test mine though (y)
And yes I too trashed an 18-105 lens dropping it attached to the camera less then half a meter onto grass, the back mounts snapped off
 
Anyone else notice the Sigma 17-50 2.8 has dropped drastically in price recently at multiple retailers? Couldn't find a zoom I was interested in for the D7000 and while primes are great for overall quality, I am missing the convenience of a zoom....
 
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£300?? I haven't seen it for less than £409 new, any pointers?

Try camerapricebuster.co.uk for a generally good list of retailers. I don't favour or recommend any actual seller, feel free to buy anywhere you like.
 
I did notice this actually, just over £300, I've been using primes mainly but theres times I could use a zoom and the Sigma is a good one.

Was quite tempted by the Nikon 16-85 as well.

Ive been tempted a number of times with the 16-85 as well but for one reason or another always chose another lens. Having decided that the AF works considerably better with larger apertures, I'm barely tempted now. Nikon 1 10-100 is also looking like a good general purpose lens over a normal zoom for the D7000. All in zoom on a V1 and a prime on the D7000 seems to be the way I am going - that is until the Sigma dropped so much and made me reconsider :bonk: again.
 
Try camerapricebuster.co.uk for a generally good list of retailers. I don't favour or recommend any actual seller, feel free to buy anywhere you like.

Wow, 3 retailers over £100 cheaper than every other retailer, makes you wonder how/why?
 
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